SX40 Super Zoom (7 Viewers)

[AndyM]

I found RAW too slow for action stuff like birds where you want to shoot in burst but it is fine for things like landscapes. I now shoot in superfine jpeg (which is another CHDK option) it just gives you a little more to play with in post processing I have found.

Totally agree with you on all counts. I would possibly consider using RAW if the subject was fairly settled and I was happy with what I'd captured using superfine jpeg. Purely for squeezing that little bit extra out of the lossless DNG format afterwards if needed.

That said, I've now gotten into the habit of converting jpeg's to lossless TIFF's before getting going on the processing. I get the impression (correct me if I'm wrong) that either method amounts to six of one, half a dozen of the other...

 

[Roy C]

Totally agree with you on all counts. I would possibly consider using RAW if the subject was fairly settled and I was happy with what I'd captured using superfine jpeg. Purely for squeezing that little bit extra out of the lossless DNG format afterwards if needed.

That said, I've now gotten into the habit of converting jpeg's to lossless TIFF's before getting going on the processing. I get the impression (correct me if I'm wrong) that either method amounts to six of one, half a dozen of the other...

I always send my jpegs (and RAWS) from DPP to CS5 as a 16 bit tiff for further editing - changing from the jpeg to tiff does not improve the image but it gives a lossless file for editing like you say. But at the end of the day 'garbage' in = 'garbage' out as most of the data has already been lost due to the in-camera compression. With RAW (DNG) you are starting off with the whole of the data as captured by the Camera so it gives a lot more scope for processing IMHO. That's the way I see it anyway.

 

[punta]

I found RAW too slow for action stuff like birds where you want to shoot in burst but it is fine for things like landscapes. I now shoot in superfine jpeg (which is another CHDK option) it just gives you a little more to play with in post processing I have found.

Thanks Roy, quick question do you have to set up the supererfine jpeg option every time the camera starts up, or does it remember the setting each time it starts. I find the closing down after a minute or two is actually doing my head in :C - I wish there was a option just to leave the camera on fulltime.

Cheers Paul

 

[AndyM]

Thanks Roy, quick question do you have to set up the supererfine jpeg option every time the camera starts up, or does it remember the setting each time it starts. I find the closing down after a minute or two is actually doing my head in :C - I wish there was a option just to leave the camera on fulltime.l

If you have it set for superfine, it will remember it each time the software is activated whether you load it manually or have CHDK set to boot automatically whenever you switch the camera on.

There is an option to leave the camera on full-time within CHDK but use it with caution. There is always the chance that you inadvertantly leave the camera switched on and end up with a flat battery!

Andy.

 

[Roy C]

Thanks Roy, quick question do you have to set up the supererfine jpeg option every time the camera starts up, or does it remember the setting each time it starts. I find the closing down after a minute or two is actually doing my head in :C - I wish there was a option just to leave the camera on fulltime.

Cheers Paul

Andy has answered your question (BTW I choose the CHDK method to boot automatically).
I agree about closing down every couple of minutes - an absolute head banger for me as well :C, I did not know CHDK had and option to keep the Camera on so will look at that - I always take a spare battery with me anyway.

 

[punta]

Ok I think I will give it a try - camera on, is all I want really, but the superfine will be good as well.

Could some one post a link to the chdk file please.

Cheers Paul

 

[Robert L Jarvis]

Don't you think you should try using the TC option before you write it off as another gimmick.

How you can conclude it is a waste when you have not tried it is beyond me.

 

[Roy C]

Don't you think you should try using the TC option before you write it off as another gimmick.

How you can conclude it is a waste when you have not tried it is beyond me.

Huh!!!!!!!! This post is right out of the blue Robert - the last half a dozen or so post have been about CHDK and without you quoting anyone suddenly you are having a go at A.N.Other about something entirely different :eek!: bizare

I have just spent a few minutes trying to find out who has said it is gimmick and has concluded it is a waste of time before even trying it - exactly who are you directing this at Robert?

 

[punta]

Found the CHDK site, looks a bit confusing to try and find your camera version.

 

[Roy C]

Found the CHDK site, looks a bit confusing to try and find your camera version.

Andy put up a link in post #300 to Acid which works great.

 

[Roy C]

I have just found another useful thing in CHDK where you can disable the Frame assist function (which I keep hitting by mistake).

 

[Roy C]

Tried really pushing the SX40 today by shooting with the so called 'Digital tele-converters'. This shot was taken at full zoom (840mm) with the built-in 1.5x tc thus giving 1260mm. Obviously not up to DSLR standards but not too bad considering IMHO. The built-in converters (1.5x and 2x) are obviously digital rather than optical but work a lot better than if you just shoot with the digital zoom at 1260mm or 1680mm, not sure why - seems like it is in-camera cropping with some extra processing + better IS. Hit rate was very low so next time I am going to try it on a tripod.

 

[AndyM]

Tried really pushing the SX40 today by shooting with the so called 'Digital tele-converters'. This shot was taken at full zoom (840mm) with the built-in 1.5x tc thus giving 1260mm. Obviously not up to DSLR standards but not too bad considering IMHO. The built-in converters (1.5x and 2x) are obviously digital rather than optical but work a lot better than if you just shoot with the digital zoom at 1260mm or 1680mm, not sure why - seems like it is in-camera cropping with some extra processing + better IS. Hit rate was very low so next time I am going to try it on a tripod.

Pretty impressive Roy! I'd be happy to get a shot like that using 'normal' zoom :t:

 

[AndyM]

A few I took today of the spotted Flycatcher - have to say i am struggling with this camera at the mo to get decent pictures. The AF is very slow and I had to take the servo off as it just kept wandering out of focus. Most were taken with the 2x zoom, as I could not get that close, plus it helped to get a fix focus wise on the bird.

Took about 100 pictures. 3 are all I have left, got a lot of exposures wrong as well. I THINK I am learning mind you :-O

Can't let these go without comment. I'd be pretty pleased with those results :t:

If my understanding of how it all works is correct, you were always going to struggle with AF as there is little contrast between the bird and the vertical fence posts sat directly behind. I imagine that the more contrasting darker green of the horizontal strut was screaming for the cameras attention (and somebody please shout me down if I'm giving out duff advice)

Andy.

 

[Roy C]

If my understanding of how it all works is correct, you were always going to struggle with AF as there is little contrast between the bird and the vertical fence posts sat directly behind. I imagine that the more contrasting darker green of the horizontal strut was screaming for the cameras attention (and somebody please shout me down if I'm giving out duff advice)

Andy.

I think you are right Andy. The AF system is not like normal phase AF on DSLR's but is purely contrast based and without good contrast it is always going to struggle. As an example I find that female house sparrows are very difficult to obtain focus on because of the lack of contrast - I was trying to lock onto one from about 10 feet yesterday and it just would not lock on, very frustrating :C . Compared with the DSLR the AF system is far and away the biggest con for me.

 

[AndyM]

I think you are right Andy. The AF system is not like normal phase AF on DSLR's but is purely contrast based and without good contrast it is always going to struggle. As an example I find that female house sparrows are very difficult to obtain focus on because of the lack of contrast - I was trying to lock onto one from about 10 feet yesterday and it just would not lock on, very frustrating :C . Compared with the DSLR the AF system is far and away the biggest con for me.

Speaking purely as someone who has never handled a DSLR, I find the AF copes pretty well albeit within the aforementioned limitations (and of course, my limited experience). It's certainly far more accurate/faster that the Nikon P500 which is my only direct comparison. Sure, the SX40's AF gives me ample opportunity for a good old moan now and again but more often than not, it gets the job done. What works and what doesn't, I guess, is part and parcel of the SX40 learning curve (as with anything else).

I lost it big-time with the P500 on a recent trip to Switzerland when I had a male Red-backed Shrike at about 15ft (looking down a hillside) in perfect light perched on the top of a single branch. It sat there for ages and yet every re-focus homed in on a light green hedge at least another 20ft behind, and below the bird! Consequently, I never got the shot. At the time, I could have happily stomped on it! :C

Andy.

 

[Roy C]

Speaking purely as someone who has never handled a DSLR, I find the AF copes pretty well albeit within the aforementioned limitations (and of course, my limited experience). It's certainly far more accurate/faster that the Nikon P500 which is my only direct comparison. Sure, the SX40's AF gives me ample opportunity for a good old moan now and again but more often than not, it gets the job done. What works and what doesn't, I guess, is part and parcel of the SX40 learning curve (as with anything else).

I lost it big-time with the P500 on a recent trip to Switzerland when I had a male Red-backed Shrike at about 15ft (looking down a hillside) in perfect light perched on the top of a single branch. It sat there for ages and yet every re-focus homed in on a light green hedge at least another 20ft behind, and below the bird! Consequently, I never got the shot. At the time, I could have happily stomped on it! :C


Andy.

LOL with the Shrike - must have been a real bummer though.
You have an advantage having not used a DSLR - what you have never had you never miss comes to mind (I have the 7D which has a superb AF system so for me the contrast based AF is a real pain at times).

 

[AndyM]

Quick question Roy. Are you still able to import direct from your camera using ZoomBrowser? Mine is reporting a 'failure to import' error message. I can still transfer images to PC using Windows Explorer no problem or by inserting the SD card into the card reader. I don't know if this is some quirk that has something to do with CHDK's partitioning of the SD card or just a problem with my version of ZoomBrowser?

Andy.

 

[Roy C]

Quick question Roy. Are you still able to import direct from your camera using ZoomBrowser? Mine is reporting a 'failure to import' error message. I can still transfer images to PC using Windows Explorer no problem or by inserting the SD card into the card reader. I don't know if this is some quirk that has something to do with CHDK's partitioning of the SD card or just a problem with my version of ZoomBrowser?

Andy.

To be quite honest I have never even tried importing direct from the Camera Andy as I always use a card reader (via ZoomBrowser).

 

[jmepler]

... every re-focus homed in on a light green hedge at least another 20ft behind...

In situations like this what I do with my FZ150 is switch to macro mode. It is slower, but the focus starts close and then moves out until it finds something to focus on. Provided you have the bird in the focus zone and there is no grass or branches in the way it rarely fails to find the bird.

I'm not sure if this will work with the SX40, as the advertised focus range in macro mode is 0-1.6 feet (0-50cm), but it might be worth some experimentation.

Mike