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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Upgrading for a 7D which way to go? (2 Viewers)

I agree with you, but the 20fps is too much for me to cope with (I was a film photographer!) and mechanical shutter is very quiet after a DSLR.

Start by hitting the Q button & selecting Drive Mode and then your preference.Single shot, Low, High or High + continuous.

Unlike previous cameras, you cannot customise frame rates exactly, but Low continuous gives a max 3fps, High gives 8fps and High + gives 12 fps
 
I agree with you, but the 20fps is too much for me to cope with (I was a film photographer!) and mechanical shutter is very quiet after a DSLR.

Start by hitting the Q button & selecting Drive Mode and then your preference.Single shot, Low, High or High + continuous.

Unlike previous cameras, you cannot customise frame rates exactly, but Low continuous gives a max 3fps, High gives 8fps and High + gives 12 fps
Much appreciated. Thanks, couldn't find a reference in the manual !
 
On my R6 when I go into electronic shutter,it states fps in electronic shutter is 20 fps regardless of what drive mode.
 
On my R6 when I go into electronic shutter,it states fps in electronic shutter is 20 fps regardless of what drive mode.
It's is, and it's right to the end of the battery power until it's flat whereas the other two modes the fps drops with the battery. One of the advantage of electronic modes is you get more frames from your battery!
 
On my R6 when I go into electronic shutter,it states fps in electronic shutter is 20 fps regardless of what drive mode.
FWIW, with plenty of practise you can fine tune a tap sequence on the shutter button that will reduce the fps in electronic mode. It's not something that I've personally tried but I've read about a few people advocating it. 12fps is nearly always plenty for me as it is.
 
R7 will turn up this year, not sure when though.

No drop in sharpness on 300/4 with either. I have to stress atmospherics though on a hot day, both can suffer, but obviously the 2x is more affected, It all comes down to subject distance. I digiscope and learned a lot of lessons when I started! I have the Kestrel image with both TCs and there is no visible difference, bar the magnification. On the E-M1X, both are extremely responsive, dare I say, surprisingly so? The OM-1 has new processors, so I anticipate faster still.
Thank you again. Sounds like I'll be well tempted when the OM-1 is available...
 
Thanks again. I'm currently still waiting to see if an R7 turns up, but definitely looking at possibly moving to Olympus instead. So the Oly 300mm f4 prime can be used well with either a 1.4x or a 2x converter. Interesting... Atmospherics aside, would you say there is a noticeable drop in sharpness if swapping the 1.4x to the 2x with this lens, or not really? And do you know how sharp and how responsive in comparison the Oly 100-400 is at 400 with at 1.4x at least?
Check out Mike Lane on YouTube, he recently carried out a Olympus ( the new model ) v Sony A1. He said he couldn’t tell them apart apart from the obvious crop out of camera.


 
Check out Mike Lane on YouTube, he recently carried out a Olympus ( the new model ) v Sony A1. He said he couldn’t tell them apart apart from the obvious crop out of camera.
He actually compared with Sony with the old Olympus OM-D E-M1x camera (it is the bigger body and the name can clearly be seen) and the conclusions were very interesting - the new OM-1 is a significant image quality upgrade from that model, so the result will have changed.
 
He actually compared with Sony with the old Olympus OM-D E-M1x camera (it is the bigger body and the name can clearly be seen) and the conclusions were very interesting - the new OM-1 is a significant image quality upgrade from that model, so the result will have changed.
Agree.
His main conclusion was that the image quality was so close that it did not matter. I am curious to see what he says when he gets his hands on an OM1.
Niels
 
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