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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

What? Say that again? (1 Viewer)

And here's what I did to the awful and unusable (you've probably guessed it...) Swarovski Habichts.

Renze
 

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It depends on your face as much as it does on the binocular. For me, indeed I don't see the full FOV if eyecups are full out. On my Leica, I have them only 2-3 mm out. Even on bins with very long eye relieve (e.g. Zeiss SF), I need a position somewhere half in. So for me, the recommendations of this blog apply.

But then, I think it's kind of a non-issue. Doesn't anyone (except complete binocular dummies) know that you need to find your own optimum position of the eyecups?

Yes and wearing my spectacles I have the SF eyecups up one notch from fully screwed down.

Lee
 
It depends on your face as much as it does on the binocular. For me, indeed I don't see the full FOV if eyecups are full out. On my Leica, I have them only 2-3 mm out. Even on bins with very long eye relieve (e.g. Zeiss SF), I need a position somewhere half in. So for me, the recommendations of this blog apply.

But then, I think it's kind of a non-issue. Doesn't anyone (except complete binocular dummies) know that you need to find your own optimum position of the eyecups?

Couldn't agree more!:t:
 
1. Click stops on eye cups are just a fad, all that's needed is friction.

I agree with your post except for this little bit. I often balance my binos on my fingertips and leaned in against my face for minimum vibration when looking at details on a small bird for identification. The last thing I would want is a minor shift on the eyecups causing me blackouts while I am doing this, if I push too hard or the friction is not enough. Over time, I am sure any friction would get looser.

What I would love is a set of different eyecups that came with expensive binoculars, in the same way that different earpieces come with earbuds. Then I don't have to worry about position once I choose the right cups. I would be happy to pay the extra $10-30 or whatever it costs to make those.
 
Eye cups are a too often overlooked part of binocular design.
Renze

Over time, I am sure any friction would get looser.
I would be happy to pay the extra $10-30 or whatever it costs to make those.

Renze I absolutely agree and nobody really gets this right, certainly not my favourite brand, Zeiss. The eyecups on Terra ED feel more secure and precisely made than on HT or SF.

But although the friction idea would give more adjustability and work much better for me, like Peter I fear the friction would reduce over time on many bins because of this: from what has been posted on here, many folks who do not wear spectacles screw the eyecups down when putting the bins away and then screw them back up again the next time they use them. All that up and down wear and tear would have an effect on the friction surfaces sooner or later. Would some kind of screw locking ring work so that the eyecups could be locked at any point and then the locking ring unscrewed so the cups could be repositioned without undue friction? Maybe its possible but then folks would set the eyecups to different heights and not be looking through the bins on axis and be sending the bins back because of CA. Hmm.

But a supply of a couple of sets of alternative eyecups would be worth paying for as Peter suggests.

Lee
 
Renze I absolutely agree and nobody really gets this right, certainly not my favourite brand, Zeiss. The eyecups on Terra ED feel more secure and precisely made than on HT or SF.

But although the friction idea would give more adjustability and work much better for me, like Peter I fear the friction would reduce over time on many bins because of this: from what has been posted on here, many folks who do not wear spectacles screw the eyecups down when putting the bins away and then screw them back up again the next time they use them. All that up and down wear and tear would have an effect on the friction surfaces sooner or later.

I agree with Renze, and actually my Leica Ultravid HD does exactly that. It has only two click position on both extremes, but friction is strong enough to hold position everywhere in between. For me this is perfect, as I can set the position exactly as I need it. I had trouble with bins with more stops, as my ideal position was somewhere inbetween. The friction on my Leica is strong enough to not change in normal use (e.g. as described by Pete). When pushing the bin in the case, they sometimes move, but that's not a problem. The friction has not loosend a bit in almost 10 years of use.

However, I think Leica does the eyecups now also with intermediate stops...
 
I think Pete hit bullseye. There is certainly merit in trying out different eyecup positions. For example following a change in my spectacles I have found a move from fully screwed down to one notch unscrewed is advantageous with some bins.

But the inference that many binoculars limit FOV with the eyecups at full extension doesn't match my experience at all. In fact I can't remember one that did this.

Lee

I don't think the eyecups extended will limit the field of view, but for me at least the view is nowhere as pleasing as with the cups screwed in with most bins I've come across. I sometimes get weird stares from birders, even some 'helpful' hints: 'son, you have to unscrew your eyecups'

Ehh, no. Screwed up, the view is that of a tunnel. Screwed down there is no more tunnel view. It depends on the eye-relief of course. The Noctivid is the first bin which eyecups have any use for me. It's also the first bin I can use with glasses on.
 
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