Panama - May 2010 (2 Viewers)

Day Four - May 17th

Chirps of House Geckos would lull us to sleep at night and we were growing accustomed to waking at first light to the gentle whooping of Blue-crowned Motmots. But then, like a cheap alarm clock, the Chacalacas would sound off. In my teenage years, I might have slept through that sound but no longer. We were up with the birds and planning to be at the Chagres River for an hour before breakfast and our participation in the census.

We had not yet learned how to walk directly to a destination without being slowed in our progress by an endless parade of interesting birds. Using the back entrance road again, trying to walk with purpose, we did get to the river on the grounds of the Gamboa Resort but had little time there before we hustled back. The open lawns there held Martins, Lapwings and Seedeaters; the thin swath of marshes along the shoreline had our first Kingfisher, an Amazon.

Breakfast done, we watched feeder birds until mid-morning before deciding to skew the census numbers and make a break for the La Laguna trail with Tom. More quality birds here but thicker and brushier than the forest we had been in previously. The going was slow as we crept along stealthily, seeing some good birds at all levels of the vegetation. We eventually came to a fork in the trail, with the left fork crudely signed "birds" and no marker whatever on the right. Well, left was obviously a trap set by the census people so we chose right and ended up at the head of the lagoon in a clearing by a small stream. Our first bird was our first American Pygmy Kingfisher and we were so transfixed, that the camera was forgotten. Tom may have gotten some pictures but the bird flew before Liz or I could react. Close by, I heard an odd snapping sound on a low hillside across the stream. By crouching and angling for a decent view, I was able to get a brief view of a Golden-collared Manakin. It was high up the hill by the time Liz joined me. As we left this spot, rain began to fall and with his expensive camera gear, Tom elected to head back. We pressed on the "birds" fork, expecting to be netted and properly counted, maybe even tatooed but instead came up along the side of the main lagoon, though it was filled with vegetation, not a great deal of water could be seen. A short distance later, the trail spilled out onto the main entrance road to the Gamboa Resort, just past the gate guard. As we stepped onto the road, the shower ended.

We left Goethals Boulevard, as the resort entrance road is called and made our way in the now hot afternoon sun across town, back to Ivans. Cooling off a bit, restocking on water and food, we decided our next move was to check out an old set of steps going to the Gamboa water tower. Ivan had pointed out the stake in the frog marsh that marked the way, neglecting to mention that many of the steps were broken or fallen away and that the slope was something akin to climbing a Mayan ruin. I think by now he saw us as a hardy sort of birder and was testing our limits. The climb was in the shade but the humidity pooled in the pockets of our shorts as we made our way up to the tower. A paved access road led away from the tower and we followed it, first up and then down before it became obvious heavy rain was moving closer and we wouldn't have time for any more exploration. A intriguing set of steps led from the road steeply up through the forest. Later, we were told that those steps led to the Resort tower. We found at least one pair of Red-capped Manakins near the tower shuffling and dancing along the tree limbs, the second Manakin lek of the day. Otherwise, birding was very slow.

After cleaning up at Ivans, we elected to go to the Resort with Tom to sample their salad bar. For us vegetarians, it was a good decision; we ate all we wanted of pasta, vegetables, bread and soup in an elegant atmosphere, well, elegant compared to the restaurants we normally frequent. The cost, $29 for two, including tip and tax was about the same as eating at Ivans. A good choice also compared to meals at the marina off Goethals Boulevard that start at $40 each. We finished off the evening washing out sweaty clothing and dodging bats while we wrote out our bird lists on the open porch.
Chagres River/Gamboa Resort:
Green Heron
Buff-throated Saltator
Common Moorhen
Amazon Kingfisher
Mangrove Swallow
*Flame-rumped tanager
Linneated Woodpecker
Palm Tanager
Golden-hooded Tanager
Great Kiskadee

La Laguna Trail:
Chestnut-headed Oropendula
White-shouldered Tanager
*Thick-billed Euphonia
*Checker-throated Antwren
*Blue-black Grosbeak
*White-bellied Antbird
Lesser Greenlet
*American Pygmy Kingfisher
*Golden-collared Manakin

Gamboa Watertank area:
Red-capped Manakin

More pics.

Nice report :t:
I've noticed the Palm Tanager pic is labelled Plain-colored Tanager.

Motmot said:

Nice report :t:
I've noticed the Palm Tanager pic is labelled Plain-colored Tanager.

Click to expand...

Like Walt Whitman, I'm simply not being too precise. || Thanks for the correction. We initially confused the two and apparently still haven't straightened them out in my mind.

Steve

Day Five - May 18th

Today was planned for a morning at Plantation Trail, a short bus ride away. We first left Ivans early for a quick check at the head of the La Laguna trail where we had heard Golden-collared Manakins but there was no Manakin sounds in the very early hours. The Howler monkeys, Red-lored Parrots and frogs were in full morning song. The frogs (or insects) sounded like a 1920's paddy wagon responding to a crime scene, "deedle, deedle, deedle" they sang in a raspy barrage of sound.

Breakfast eaten in record time, we were at El Triangulo on Harding Avenue, the official name of the back entrance road to Gamboa Resort, just after 7. The 7:15 bus came along as expected, at 7:35 and we were standing at the head of the trail 20 minutes later. And, 1 minute after that, we were joined by a Sobernia Park guard, who traded us two official day passes for $10. He also gave us a large map of the park, which I would have preferred to frame but had to fold instead.

Light conditions on the trail in the low morning light were not ideal for birding or photography so we moved slowly, not wanting to miss anything and expecting a fabulous few hours on this world renown old road. Several hours and over a kilometer later, we stopped for a sit down snack break at one of the few benches with a very small list of birds. True, they were all good birds but either we had gone suddenly blind and deaf or this was the least birdy place in Panama we had been yet. We kept going for another hour but there wasn't enough activity to keep us interested. The reputation of the place gave us a little extra momentum, however, if it hadn't been pleasant walking with almost no bugs and a good amount of shade, we might have turned around much sooner.

When we did get back to the trailhead, crossing paths briefly with Tom Freidel, we turned left and slowly walked up the steep Semaphore Hill Road, with the intention of inquiring about lodging at the Canopy Tower. The sky was partly sunny and the road was partly shaded hence we evaporated many pints of Ivans water into the surrounding air thus making it more humid. What a vicious circle!

We were greeted at the top by chain-link fencing, concertina wire and two guards. No gun tower, so we felt safe enough to ask about going to the office which we were let in to do. It was a pleasure to walk on a level surface but a shock to hear the pricing. We had heard and were hoping for better than $280 for a single night. They were gracious enough to allow us to fill our water bottles, perhaps to prevent heart failure, and in moments, we were retreating through the gate and down the hill. We spent some time along the highway waiting for the bus and boarded just as the first few drops fell. In Gamboa, we were dropped off in a downpour at the far end of town. Taking shelter under the overhang of an empty building, we tried to outwait the rain, hoping for some time at the Ammo Dump Ponds. It continued hard then slowed and we made a break for Ivans, getting caught in a fresh onslaught halfway there.

Later, when the rain had passed, we spent the evening walking the streets of Gamboa, a nicely laid out town, with interesting architecture and an occasional bird to train our bins on. I think the humidity was over 300%; our glasses and binoculars kept fogging, requiring constant wiping. Nevertheless, we walked and gawked until dark, covering almost every street in Gamboa.

Ivan offered us a good deal for tomorrow's trip to Pipeline Road. He had a gas powered golf cart that we could rent for the day with the caveat that we never park it and leave it. We took it out for a quick instructional run after dark, a simple to operate machine that would save some serious shoe leather.

Plantation Trail:
*Western Slaty Antshrike
*Rufous Motmot
*Plain Brown Woodcreeper
*Spotted Antbird

Semaphore Hill Road:
Black-cheeked Woodpecker

Gamboa:
Black-striped Sparrow
Cocoa Woodcreeper
Masked Tityra

Any feedback on the Flycatcher would be appreciated. Lesser Elaenia?

Steve

Hamhed said:

Any feedback on the Flycatcher would be appreciated. Lesser Elaenia?

Steve

Click to expand...

Eastern Wood-Pewee? Don't know.

Hamhed said:

My pictures are not often call "great". Thank you for that. I figure if we spend enough time in the field and shoot enough shots, a few might be postable. I'm seeing the value of videos more and more for bird i.d.. You must have used a tripod, or is there software that can reduce camera shake?

Click to expand...

Love the Barred Antshrike pair, great to get them together like that.
I always use a tripod, there is software for reducing the shake but I've not had much success with it even with shaky tripod footage.

Hamhed said:

Day Five - May 18th

we turned left and slowly walked up the steep Semaphore Hill Road, with the intention of inquiring about lodging at the Canopy Tower.

Click to expand...

What a killer that road is! The young lady who worked there used to run up it for exercise. :eek!:

The canopy tower is more expensive than I thought! Thanks for reporting on that. Sorry to hear that the birding was slow- lowland forest is just like that sometimes. I am also enjoying the photos- love the bat! Congrats on that woodcreeper too- they are always tough to photograph.

As for the flycatcher, yes, it could be a Lesser Elaenia. I can't say for sure because of the resolution but it looks like a good candidate- shape looks like an Elaenia sp. and it lacks the crest and white in the crest shown by Yellow-bellied Elaenia.

redeyedvireo - thanks for the software tip. Computer time is wasted birding time anyway! I'll need to find a dedicated, four extension tripod and go for more video.
As far as the flycatcher is concerned, I would think that the Empids would be long gone. They are singing in our area in early May. Would one stay behind? Don't know the answer to that. I just assumed a tropical species.

Patrick -
Yes, the tower is overpriced, in my opinion. The food must be pretty good!
I put in a i.d. request for the bat on birdforum.

Steve

Hamhed said:

Yes, the tower is overpriced, in my opinion. The food must be pretty good!

Steve

Click to expand...

I'm surprised at the price too, it's always best to book in advance and the price usually includes all meals and a guide for the day. They're among the best in the World in every respect. The accommodation is basic & a bit like sleeping in a giant tin can, very warm and humid as I recall but what an experience to wake up in amongst the birds, priceless.

The food is good, the chef's a vegetarian and all meals are freshly prepared.

Day Four - May 19th

Our earliest morning yet, we buzzed through Gamboa on Ivan's cart well before dawn, reaching the head of Pipeline Road in total blackness. Hoping for some calling night birds (no luck), we at least wanted to be in position to hear the day birds greet the dawn. Watching and listening kept us there for 90 minutes; no new birds seen but some bird sounds I haven't yet identified. We then traveled in a hop and stop method down the first part of Pipeline Road, which didn't produce much that we could identify either. Reduced lighting and heavy vegetation can make forest birding tough. There was one group each of Mantled Howler Monkeys and White-faced Capuchins, always a pleasure to see them. Eventually, we stopped at a gate with a guard shack just past the entrance to the Discovery Center. Not sure if the gate would be opened at any certain time, we waited for about a half hour, then gave up and drove the cart around the gate on an obvious path we thought made for that purpose. More hop and stop driving to the bridge at Rio La Seda at 4.9 km. We walked a little further but birding was a little slow, with the exception of one new bird - the impressive Crimson-crested Woodpecker.

By mid-morning, we were back at the Discovery Center, meeting with Tom, and we again elected to try Calamito lake and the nearby trails. Calamito was a repeat of our previous visit but a nice place to relax for a midday break. Walking quietly and carefully along the trails, we discovered and got good views of a Gray-headed Kite. Tom managed some pictures and posted them on his website (birdphotos.com). More hummingbird watching at the Center before we left around midday. That's a place one could spend a good deal of time. No fruit feeders, which I think would have been a wonderful addition. Another hour at the head of Pipeline Road, a fairly active spot where we heard a lek of some unknown type of Manakin. I've drawn a crude map of the intersection of roads in that area as it was consistently a good area for mixed species of birds.

I had misinterpreted the Gamboa map that Ivan has posted on his website and we had looked in vain for the store supposedly a half block off Galliard Highway. With clarified directions from Ivan the night before, we found the little place, stocked with more than we expected. If one was to lower their standards to mild desperation, all three meals of the day could be supplied by that place, especially on a diet rich with snack foods. There was also a selection of fruit, bread, eggs, ice cream, cold drinks and milk and beer. While I'm on the subject of food availability, there were also at least two very small and basic eateries with limited hours near the Post Office which we never had the occasion to try. Back at Ivans by 5 and dinner again at the Resort "barra ensalada" (salad bar). Despite frequent yawns and tired eyes, we got through the bird list and the rest of our nightly chores before collapsing.

Note: At one time, we were intending on staying at the Sobernia Research Station just down the street for the next two nights, but due to a number of factors, we decided to stick with Ivan's instead. Maybe when the construction is finished on the house and it becomes a real Research Station, it will be worth another try. Tom gave it a try and thought it worth while.

Pipeline Road:
*Crimson-crested Woodpecker
Barred Woodcreeper
Ruddy-tailed Woodcreeper

Discovery Center:
*Blue-chested Hummingbird
*Gray-headed Kite
White-whiskered Puffbird

More from Panama.

Day 7 - May 19th

Looking back, I see I've made a mess of the dates and days. This entry brings the report back into correct continuity. Since no one else pointed this out, I will assume what's important is the rest of the report so here goes -

Our original plans were to spend a day south on Galliard highway at Summit Nature Park and Old Gamboa Road. Taking to Ivan and Tom changed that however, saying that Summit Park was nothing but common birds and often crowded. Old Gamboa Road is in the protected border of the Canal Zone and, according to Ivan, it is becoming less acceptable for birders to use the road without being hassled by the Canal Zone security guard. It was discouraging news and we were not inclined to go through the effort of packing for the day and using the bus system on its two hour rotation to confirm the accuracy of this information. Call us lazy; we opted to stay in Gamboa and revisit areas we enjoyed in the previous days.

After breakfast at a more reasonable hour than on previous days, we walked out Galliard Highway meeting a Canadian researcher who was studying Red-throated Ant-Tanagers. Too bad we were going in opposite directions; she was interesting to talk to. She was staying and working out of a real Research Station in Gamboa, a place we had walked past off Harding Avenue. In the Ammo Dump ponds, we saw a pair of Rufescent Tiger-Herons, one Striated Heron, several Wattled Jacanas and Greater Ani's. White-throated Crakes called almost continuously, a long, descending rattle, like a whirling mechanical part gone awry. Panama Flycatchers, Great Kiskadees, Gray-breasted Martins, Tropical Mockingbirds and a good variety of Seedeaters and Finches were in or flying above the tall grasses. Close by, in the mid-elevation of trees bordering the marshes, a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques had hung teardrop-shaped nests at the ends of thin branches. The activity of the Caciques was fascinating to watch, never mind the amusing, chortling sounds they made. We saw Yellow-headed Caracaras and White-vented Pigeons in the road. Of course, there were Vultures, mostly Black, a few Turkey, and Tropical Kingbirds. A few flyover Red-lored Parrots and Parakeets, we guess Orange-chinned. Always a bird or two in the trees and bushes, a Wren or Todyflycatcher or Euphonia. It seems amazing we made it to the head of Pipeline Road at all. We did though and found a few new birds for the trip. The second growth woodlands there had us looking at every level. We watched a Plain Xenops at close range for as long as we wanted, a bird that moved much too quickly and erratically to allow a picture.

A midday stop at Ivans, then into the teeth of a building storm to La Laguna trail where we found the lek of Golden-collared Manakins active and were able to get some good views of their hip-hop style of dance. Ten minutes later, the threatening sky stopped bluffing and we walked the rest of the trail in a heavy downpour. It was still raining when we made it to the entrance of the Resort Marina but it stopped shortly after, allowing us to check out the docks. A Sora surprised us; initially we thought it was something else, not realizing they were found in Panama. We then walked to a side entrance of the resort where we explored a level dirt road leading towards the Chagres River. It was generally open and the sun had come out, creating instant high temperatures and slow birding so we abandoned this road and crossed past the front of the Resort itself to spend the last part of the day along the river in hopes of seeing other water birds. We found everything but new birds, no matter. The sun setting across the river and Jacanas along the shore, dozens of Red-lored Parrots heading to roost, Lapwings in the grass and Mangrove Swallows just above them made for a very nice finish to the day.

Pipeline Road area:
Tawny-crowned Greenlet
Plain Wren
Long-tailed Gnatwren
Plain Xenops
*Striated Heron

Gamboa marina:
Magnificent Frigatebird
Little Blue Heron
Sora

Two more.

More cool photos! The good thing about the tropics is that with good habitat around, you can visit the same area and continue to see new birds day after day. The image of the vireo is actually that of a Yellow Tyrannulet.

Hi, Patrick -

Thanks for the i.d. correction. Notice that bird is not on our new bird list. I'm getting a little scattered in completing this report. We didn't see the Vireo until we moved up to the mountains. We didn't even know what the Tyrannulet was.
We enjoyed just walking back and forth from Pipeline Road to the Gamboa Resort. It WAS different every time, as you say.

Day 8 - May 20th

The sound of thunder woke us on our last morning in Gamboa. One last visit to the Chagres River in the dim light of a particularly gray morning, then back to breakfast and a quick goodbye to Ivan. We almost sprinted the half block to the bus stop on Harding Ave as the sprinkles began. Fifteen minutes later, rain began to fall and continued falling until we reached the terminal in Panama City. Less trouble this time finding the correct bus, paying $3.50 each for a ticket to El Valle and a 5 cent charge to use the turnstile (we reasoned to prevent unnecessary crowds in the waiting area). Before I had time to visit the Dunkin Donuts, they loaded us into a small but sleek van but we waited for another 30 minutes beyond scheduled departure, ostensibly for enough passengers to make it profitable to drive to the mountains. Eventually, the bus took a half bus load of us though the rain 2 1/2 hours west and several thousand feet up, diverting our attention from the driver's aggressive driving techniques with music videos the whole way. The rain and the tinted windows made birding by bus near impossible so we were happy to disembark in El Valle, almost directly across from our hotel, El Residencial (http://www.hotelresidencialelvalle.com/).

We were checked in by the owner, Enrique Tiban, and led up to our third floor room, adjacent to a enormous, partially covered patio. This patio overlooked the 1/2 km main street of El Valle and had a view of Cerro Gaital. Quickly settling in, we grabbed our binoculars, daypacks and headed south, down the upscale residential street of Los Milonarios, past flower-filled yards and increasingly sparse housing until we reached the Cerro Caraiguana trail, actually a gravel road traveled by a surprising number of locals. Some new birds were active in the wooded areas. Black-chested Jays checked us out just long enough for us to check them out. In a light rain, we had to work hard to see both Rufous-breasted Wrens and a Rufous and White Wren. One Chestnut-headed Oropendula landed directly over our heads, craning our necks away from the Wrens at our feet. People walked by frequently with only mildly curious looks and always a smiling "Hola" or "Buenos".

Late day activities included some shopping at the "downtown" grocery store, there being two other somewhat larger supermercados at either end of main street, arranging transportation for the following morning, and satisfying our growling stomachs at the hotel's default restaurant, the Tierra y Mar. The food was inexpensive and satisfying, definitely a convenient amenity to staying at El Residencial. The veranda on the top floor was another such bonus feature of the hotel. Some common birds visible from that level on the adjacent lot were Blue-Gray Tanager, Crimson-backed Tanager, Blue and White Swallow, Gray-breasted Martin, Bananaquit, Lesser Elaenia, House Wren, Social Flycatcher, Clay-colored Thrush, Green Heron (in a watery ditch), Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and a Woodcreeper scaling a masonry wall. There was a large concrete construction project across the street, looking much like another hotel. Though it was a weekday, little work was performed that day or any of the days we were stayed at El Residencial. By late evening, the streets were quiet also and we slept well.

Gamboa:
Costa Rican Swifts
Bronzed Cowbird

El Valle (Caraiguana Trail):
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Rufous-capped Warbler
*Rufous-breasted Wren
*Black-Chested Jay
Lesser Greenlet
Chestnut-headed Oropendula
Yellow-faced Grassquit
*Yellow-green Vireo
Yellow-crowned Euphonia
*Rufous and White Wren

More from Panama.

Valle, Panama looks like such a birdy town. I've got to check that place out some time!

You'll love it, really good birding and the atmosphere is kind of relaxing.