More from the Canon G6 (1 Viewer)

I finally got my Scopetronix Maxview S (40 mm ) eyepiece modified so that the Canon G6 lens could be accommodated as much as possible.
In the composite photo you can see the original screw that the eyepiece came with and there was only one narrow groove for it to lock into and it was hard to do it without a screw driver. My "adapter guy" has cut two grooves and they are a little longer. The bigger plastic screws are much easier to adjust now which suits cameras like the G6 and Canon A600 series. The G6 can now be used from about 15 - 28.8 mm (full zoom) with no vignetting, although there is a hint of shadowing in the corners when against the sky. This suits the Scopetronix which is only 11.5 x magnification on the Swarovski STS80HD scope.
The test flowers were taken at iso 50 in RAW, using the Self-timer. They RAW image was adjusted to be all the same (as much as possible ) and are original size - 15/20/23 mm.
The last image was cropped and adjusted in CS2 and was taken at 25 mm (122 mm x 11.5 = 1400 mm or 28x magnification ). I also took some images at full zoom (140 mm or total 1600 mm) and they don't look too bad.

Canon G6 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and Scopetronix Maxview S (40mm) modified.

Hong Kong,
China.
October 2007

Thanks Neil for taking the trouble to explain.
Cheers,
Richard (broc)

I've started using the G6 and Scopetronix Maxview eyepiece on a more regular basis. Here are a couple of images taken today in low light with shutter speed of 1/10th of a second. Neil.

Canon G6 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and Scopetronix Maxview eyepiece

Hong Kong,
China.
November 2007

Excellent pixs. Was wondering how far you were from the subject at the time?

I have never, using the N4500 + Swarovshi 80HD (angled), ever got even close to the quality you are able to achieve using the same combo. I had better results with a N995. This is really disappointing to say the least. I then used the 20D + 50mm f1.4 + Swaro and it was reasonably better if I don't go beyond 20X. The results do tend to be on the 'soft' side possibly bec I may have difficulty determining when 'focus' has been achieved. I switched to 20D + Scopetronix Maxview + Swaro and do feel that this gives me the best results altho I do not understand why. The downside of course is that the subject cannot be too far away. I tried using a Better Beamer to push up camera speed and if I get it right this does help. Currently my successful shots are achieved only bec I shoot RAW and rely on PS to get it right. This to me is not satisfactory apart from being very time consuming. I have thought of trying out the P5100 which appears to be doing well or maybe even the G9 (bec of its RAW format ability) but have hesitated bec I think the problem may lie with me and not the camera I use. Cheers.

Broc,
These were taken in shady light this morning in my mates backyard at a distance of about 7/8 metres. I was at about 80mm in the camera zoom ,so about 11.5 x 80 = 920mm. With my setup I can go from about 60 - 120 mm without vignetting.
The P5100 is an excellent little camera with a very good screen, the best I've used, and fast Auto Focus that will even lock on to feeding waders. You can watch the center focus square on the screen and when it turns Green you know you've locked on. I find it important to use macro and I'm usually at the end of the macro zoom (43 mm ). All much improved over the P5000. The 4500 is now difficult to go back to and hard to use out in the light. I'm usually sitting in the shade as it's too hot here to be out in the sun.
The 8400 is still the one to beat up to 1600mm if you are happy with the JPEG files it produces as the RAW files take some time to process. It's like using a DSLR without the mirror vibration ( although it is an electronic viewfinder not optical but it's not bad).
Neil.

Only just read your reply, Neil. Many thanks again for the information and a Merry Christmas and New Year to you and yours. Hopefully I will be looking forward to better pixs next year!! Cheers!