Lanzarote 01/03-15/03/2013 (1 Viewer)

Having birded Tenerife out last March, I persuaded the missus that we needed to try a different Canary Island this year. Despite my pushing of Fueteventura, it was dismissed as "too windy" and we ended up spending a fortnight in Lanzarote. We were based at the Hotel Blue Sea Los Fiscos on the western edge of Puetro Del Carmen, paying £650 each all-inclusive (incl flights from Birmingham). Car hire (Opel Astra) for 10 days via Cabrera Medina at £135; petrol was approx E1.15 a litre.

With the wife, small baby and outlaws in tow I only managed one complete day out (to Fueteventura) and the remainder was 2/3 hour escapes where I could manage them. Information was garnered from a number of good trip reports on t'net and from Tony Clarke and David Collins' excellent "A Birdwatchers' Guide to the Canary Islands"; I have provided updates where the site information has changed.

I set myself a target of 50 species; new species for the holiday are shown in CAPITALS. I will be adding photos from my Canon SX40 when I have found my download cable!

Friday 1st March

As the plane approached Arrecife airport from over the sea from the south late afternoon, I spotted a number of "AZOREAN" YELLOW-LEGGED GULLS on the water. The terminal building itself housed a healthy population of SPANISH SPARROW whilst our transfer coach saw me clock up COLLARED DOVE, 2 RING-NECKED PARAKEETS and a fly-over HOOPOE.

Saturday 2nd March

With no hire car until Monday I took an early morning walk west along the coast path to Puetro Calero. Highlight was 2 pairs of TRUMPETER FINCH; also enountered were LESSER SHORT-TOED LARK, BERTHELOT'S PIPIT, 2 pairs of LINNET, 2 TURNSTONE, KESTREL, Azorean Yellow-legged Gull, SOUTHERN GREY SHRIKE, FERAL PIGEON (many looking very Rock Dove-like), Spanish Sparrow and Collared Dove.

A stroll into Puerto Del Carmen town itself late morning produced a cluster of birds around the harbour - 10 Turnstone, good numbers of Azorean Yellow-legged Gull, a very obliging LITTLE EGRET, a COMMON SANDPIPER and some rather dodgy MALLARD with some clear influences from elsewhere!

A repeat of the coastal walk late afternoon / early evening after heavy rain saw predominately the same mix of species, plus a Common Sandpiper and 3 COMMON SWIFT in off the sea.

Sunday 3rd March

Another early morning walk along the coast path to Puerto Carelo notched up 6 Southern Grey Shrikes (including a family party feeding young just west of the football stadium), 5 Trumpeter Finch, Lesser Short-toed Lark, 2 SANDWICH TERN passing off shore, 1 Turnstone, a Ring-necked Parakeet right outside the hotel, Linnet, Spanish Sparrow, Lesser Short-toed Lark etc etc plus a singing (but not seen) SPECTACLED WARBLER in the barranco half way between the two habitations.

Monday 4th March

An early morning walk into town before the harbour and sea-front got too busy saw probably the same Little Egret, plus now 4 Common Sandpiper and 11 Turnstone, a WHIMBREL, 5 Common Swift and Linnet.

After some confusion as to whether the hire car was being delivered to the hotel or fetched from the hire office (resolved eventually!) I had wheels! To keep the family happy I took them to the quieter stretch of sea-front at Matagorda at the eastern end of the Puerto Del Carmen strip. There were notably more waders present, with 2 Little Egret, a GREY PLOVER, 9 SANDERLING, 1 Turnstone, 1 Whimbrel, 1 RINGED PLOVER, 2 Sandwich Terns passing west plus more Ring-necked Parakeets. An enterprising female Spanish Sparrrow scavanged some interesting nest material!

With a few free hours left in the afternoon I took the 20 minute drive to Salina de Janubio (C&C site L2). These partially operational / partially abandoned salt-workings, with their adjoining lagoon just behind the sea, proved a real magnet for birds throughout the holiday (particularly waders). To get a true picture of the number of waders viewing was undertaken from 4 locations - the beach car park to the north, the pull-in along the same road, the small cliff top car park in the SE corner and the southern beach car park down a rough track. The totals were pretty impressive - 75 BLACK-WINGED STILTS, c30 REDSHANK, 7 GREENSHANK, 2 RUDDY SHELDUCK, 4 summer plumaged BLACK-NECKED GREBES, 20 Turnstones, several KENTISH PLOVER, 4 Common Sandpiper, a winter plumaged CURLEW SANDPIPER, c10 LITTLE RINGED PLOVERS, 30 Sanderling, 1+ Grey Plover, at least 60 Azorean Yellow-legged Gulls, a winter plumage BLACK-HEADED GULL, 1 Whimbrel, many Berthelot's Pipits plus 2 calling YELLOW WAGTAILS. A 30 minute sea watch off the main car park in a blusterly westerly wind and failing light noted at least 6 GANNET, 2 Sandwich Terns and 45 CORY'S SHEARWATERS.

Tuesday 5th March

Time to find some of the island's specialities. I took an early morning trip to El Rubicon (C&C site L1), an arid area just north of Playa Blanca. I had a run-in with the Civil Guard for having the audacity to safely pull off the road to read the directions on my map! Following similar run-ins in recent years in Donana and Monfrague perhaps I am a magnet for over-zealous policemen!

I search all the locations described in recent trip reports for both coursers and bustards but drew a complete blank. The sense of creeping development eating away at the suitable habitat was palpable. The seemingly most productive area (take the Femes road out of Playa Blanca and turn left at the roundabout by the cement works heading back towards the LZ2 but peters out into a dead-end) was blocked by a series of very large and deep puddles. I continued to the end of the track on foot but needless to say I didnt see any of the targets. What I did encounter was a very smart BARBARY FALCON sat on top of one of the electricity pylons; that would save me searching the cliffs at the north of the island! Other birds noted included Lesser Short-toed Lark, Berthelot's Pipit and Specatcled Warbler.

A repeat of the walk along the promenade at Matagorda promenade encountered 5 Sandwich Terns, 1 Whimbrel, 2 Turnstone, 2 Grey Plover, 9 Sanderling, 2 Ringed Plover and 2 Ring-necked Parakeets plus plenty of gulls.

Late afternoon I went to the sea front at Arrecife (C&C site L3), approx 15 minutes from my hotel. The rock shore was very productive, especially the area around Castillo de San Gabriel. Unfortunately the continuation of the harbour wall was taped off due to the strong wind and high waves. Nevertheless I noted 50+ Sandwich Terns with approx 10 COMMON TERNS amongst them, 2 Grey Plovers, c20 Turnstone, c20 Ringed Plover, c30 Sanderling, 1 Common Sandpiper, 1 GREY HERON, 3 Kentish Plover, 1 Little Egret, 1 Whimbrel and 2 Cory's Shearwater off shore. The enclosed tidal lagoon - Charco de San Gines - hels more Turnstone and 3 winter plumage DUNLIN. Driving through the western edge of Arrecife in the gathering gloom a CATTLE EGRET passed low overhead, presumably on its way to roost.

Wednesday 6th March

Impressed by the array of birds at Salina de Janubio, I headed there early morning. En route I have 2 Cattle Egret in flight near Uga. The salt pans produced a very similar range of species as my last visit - still 4 Black-necked Grebes on the lagoon plus Black-winged Stilts, 2 Greenshank, 4 Redshank, Sanderling, Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Common Sandpiper, Turnstone, 3 Ruddy Shelduck (2 on one of the pans and a third flew north), the Black-headed Gull and several Berthelot's Pipits.

I then took the track westwards towards the sandy coloured desalination plant off the old road around 3 km south of the salt pans (level with the petrol station on the new LZ2) as this had previously received sightings of desert species. Again no coursers or bustards but I did manage a STONE CURLEW, plus even more Berthelot's Pipits and Lesser Short-toed Larks.

Our late morning walk took us from Matagorda around the airport perimter to Playa Honda. Not only did this give great views of the planes taking off and landing but also was a much quieter stretch of coast (apart from the nudists!). The fence held 3 Southern Grey Shrikes whilst the rocks had Little Egret, Turnstone, Sanderling and Whimbrel.

In the afternoon it was off north to the the salt pans at Los Cocoteras (C&C site 7). The journey there had fly-over Hoopoe, Kestrel and Cattle Egret. The pans themselves were a huge disappointment; small and with little suitable wader feeding habitat. The only birds in my note book were Azorean Yellow-legged Gull and Berthelot's Pipit! To rescue something from the day I headed over to the traditional stronghold for Houbara's Bustard - El Jable / Teguise Plains (C&C site L5). Working the myriad of tracks between LZ20, LZ30 and Caleta de Famara road (all were driveable but please only keep to the main ones to reduce disturbance, as requested by the roadside signs) I encountered a distant displaying male HOUBARA'S BUSTARD up on the crest of a small hill. Also noted was a quartering female MARSH HARRIER, a male NORTHERN WHEATEAR on a rocky outcrop, Hoopoe, 3 RAVEN, at least 6 Southern Grey Shrike, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Berthelot's Pipit, 3+ Kestrels and 6 Cattle Egrets. On leaving the plains I came across a second bustard, only approx 20 metres from the car. Frustratingly my camera was in the boot so I had to just watch in awe as it slowly slinked off.

In the early evening 9 SWALLOWS passed over the hotel.

Thursday 7th March

Back to Arrecife early morning in an attempt to catch a favourable tide. With access now to the sea wall passed the castle I was able to observe a roosting flock of c290 Sandwich Terns (unfortunately none with orange beaks amongst them) out on the rocks. Also present were 25 Grey Plover, 4 Little Egret, Turnstone, the same 3 Dunlin, 3 Whimbrel, 3 Kentish Plover, Ringed Plover, Sanderling, a winter plumage BLACK-TAILED GODWIT with a Cattle Egret over.

A quiet walk between Matagorda and Playa Honda resulted in Whimbrel, Southern Grey Shrike, Little Egret and Sanderling.

Time for a bit of greenery (pardon the pun) so it was off to Teguise Golf Course (C&C site L6). I had 2 Cattle Egrets over Tahiche on my way there. A quick negotiation with the nice girls on reception saw permission granted to walk the tarmacced golf buggy track. Being mid afternoon the birding was rather quiet - 3 Hoopoes, a WHITE WAGTAIL, Kestrel, Linnet, Cattle Egret, Spanish Sparrow before I suddenly happened upon a lone BARBARY PARTRIDGE. Having walked the first 9 holes (in reverse so I wasnt disturbing the same playing groups all the time), I was accosted by a rotund man whose sole job appeared to be picking up golf balls. He took this lack of job satisfaction out on me, inviting me to leave the course. I thought of getting involved in a detailed discussion about how I already had consent to walk the course but with my non-existent Spanish and the partridge under my belt I cut my losses.

With time on my hands I decided to take another look at the El Jable area. I again encountered Houbara's Bustards - this time 3 including 2 in close proximity, a very distant raptor that was probably yesterday's Marsh Harrier but had a buteo feel about it, Kestrel, 3 Southern Grey Shrikes and Lesser Short-toed Lark.

Friday 8th March

Without the sniff of a courser all week, I returned at dawn to El Rubicon. I headed straight for the dead-end track from the cement works off the Femes Road. This time it was driveable and on getting to the far end (approx 75 metres short of the LZ2) I was rewarded with close views of a CREAM-COLOURED COURSER - slightly different to seeing them on British golf courses!! Returning down the track I had a further 2, more distant, coursers plus the obligatory Berthelot's Pipits, Lesser Short-toed Larks and 2 Southern Grey Shrikes.

On the way back to Puerto Del Carmen I took another quick look at Salina de Janubio which produced a good list of birds but nothing new - 4 Black-necked Grebes, 4 Redshank, 4 Greenshank, Black-winged Stilts, Sanderling, Kentish Plover, Common Sandpiper, Ringed and Little Ringed Plover, Grey Plover, Turnstone, 3 Ruddy Shelduck, Spanish Sparrow, 2 Trumpeter Finch, Linnet and Berthelot's Pipit.

For the afternoon I thought I would try a site not mentioned in Clarke & Collins but referred to in a number of trip reports, La Isla (just north of Tinajo on the north coast). Initial impressions were not good - a sprawling new holiday complex with further additions under construction. It would appear to be some sort of health result with the roads teeming with runners and cyclists. Birding the foreshore produced 2 Little Egret, 4 Grey Plover, 1 Grey Heron, 1 Turnstone, 2 Kentish Plover, 2 Whimbrel, 1 Common Sandpiper, 1 Ringed Plover , 24 Sandwich Terns and Southern Grey Shrike. A sea watch from the Isla was more exciting with at least 100 Cory's Shearwaters, a large dark sea bird that was probably just a Gannet and the familar ponderous progress of a GREAT SKUA.

Saturday 9th March

A lie-in in the morning was followed by the usual walk between Matagorda and Playa Honda, noting just Little Egret and Southern Grey Shrike.

In the afternoon it was off to the north of the island, focussed on the area south of Haria; on my way I had a Hoopoe fly over the road at Los Valles. Arriving at the site in the hills just north of the Mirador de Haria (C&C site L8), I took the small track that lead into a narrow valley. Please note this track is best accessed north from the LZ10; it is a very very tight turn if coming south from Haria as described in C&C. This now felt more like "proper birding" - OK not Spurn or Blakeney Point on a fall but at least there were passerines to work through! The resident population of CANARY were soon ticked off but there was so much more besides - 4 very showy male Spectacled Warblers, Spanish Sparrow, Kestrel, Linnet, 2 CHIFFCHAFF, Berthelot's Pipit, GREENFINCH, 2 male SARDINIAN WARBLERS, ROBIN (heard several times), GREY WAGTAIL (heard calling further up the valley) and AFRICAN BLUE TIT (calling from the pines but frustratingly not seen). Several of these species werent mentioned in Clarke & Collins and I wonder if increased cultivation / spread of pines in recent years has resulted in a greater variety of bird life.

I carried on up to Mirador Del Rio at the very northen tip of Lanzarote but didnt see anything of interest (other than the very impressive 600 metre high cliffs and some true looking Rock Doves). I couldnt find a way down to the small salt pans at the foot of the cliffs but could only spy Black-winged Stilts and Azorean Yellow-legged Gulls.

On the way back I briefly called into the seafront at Arrecife, sighting 2 Little Egrets, 8 Turnstone, 2 PALLID SWIFT over the Charco, c90 Sandwich Tern, 2 Grey Plover, 1 Ringed Plover, 2 Whimbrel and most surprisingly, 2 CURLEW.

Sunday 10th March

Being a Sunday I thought the seafront would be nice and quiet at Arrecife, enabling me to undertake a detailed wader count. Unfortunately it appears that Sunday is the day that all the locals in Arrecife go walking their dogs / fishing / clambering over the rocks early morning. Despite this I notched up the following - 29 Turnstone, 4 Dunlin, 5 Little Egret, 33 Ringed Plover, 5 Common Sandpiper, 1 Grey Heron, 9 Whimbrel, 18 Grey Plover, 28 Sanderling, 6 Kentish Plover, 1 Black-tailed Godwit but only 10 Sandwich Tern. My very own WeBS count! Also on the rocks were 1 Grey Wagtail and 3 White Wagtails, plus a few of those ever-present Berthelot's Pipits. The journey back to the hotel resulted in a Southern Grey Shrike and a HOUSE MARTIN.

The morning stroll to Playa Honda from Matagorda was a bit more productive than usual with a pair of Trumpeter Finches, 1 Southern Grey Shrike, 2 Grey Plover, 1 Turnstone and 8 Sanderling.

As the salt workings are closed on a Sunday I took the opportunity in the afternoon to walk into the salt pans at Salina de Janubio to get a better look at the smaller waders. The Black-necked Grebe numbers had reduced to 2 whilst there were also 2 Ruddy Shelduck, c5 Sanderling, c50 Kentish Plover, 8 Redshank, 11 Greenshank, 1 Whimbrel, 7 Common Sandpiper, 54 Black-winged Stilts, a few Ringed Plover and Turnstone, many Berthelot's Pipits, Chiffchaff, Little Ringed Plover and hiding amongst the Kentish Plovers, a winter plumage LITTLE STINT. I would never have seen it if I hadnt been walking amongst the pans.

With around an hour of daylight left I headed to the nearby track to the desalination plant described earlier. In addition to the usual Lesser Short-toed Larks and Berthelot's Pipits I was lucky enough to spy a Houbara's Bustard in flight approach 500 metres south of the track and then a second bird only 50 metes north of the track. Magical!

Monday 11th March

Another lie-in was followed by the daily Matagorda to Playa Honda walk, encountering 2 Whimbrel, 1 Grey Plover, Cattle Egret, 38 Sanderling, 2 Trumpeter Finches, 2 Southern Grey Shrikes and 8 Sandwich Terns.

With no pre-plans for the afternoon I thought about which birding session I had enjoyed the most. So it was off to the mountains just south of Haria again. En route I saw 2 Southern Grey Shrikes and 5 Cattle Egrets - 2 in flight near Arrecife and 3 by the roadside just south of Los Valles. At the valley south of Haria there were again bountiful Canary, Sardinian Warbler, Spectacled Warbler, Kestrel, some very convincing Rock Doves and Linnet plus more surprises - 2 GOLDFINCH, a SONG THRUSH, a Chiffchaff and higher up than I had previously ventured, at least 5 AFRICAN BLUE TITS.

Being a generous sort of a chap I thought I would give La Isla a chance to redeme itself. I drove there via the northern part of El Jable along the track to Soo off the Caleta de Famara road. Birds encountered included 2 Hoopoes (on the outskirts of Soo), 3 Southern Grey Shrikes, Kestrel, Lesser Short-toed Lark and yet another Houbara's Bustard, again at close range.

The area around La Isla was a lot quieter and although the tide wasnt as far out as I had hoped, the area was still productive. Roosting on one of the islands off the causeway was 2 Grey Herons and 2 SPOONBILLS. Waders included 1 Grey Plover, 2 Common Sandpiper, 1 Ringed Plover, 2 Whimbrel; other birds comprised Southern Grey Shrike and 4 Sandwich Terns. A quick sea watch was a bit of a struggle with only 5 Cory's Shearwaters but on leaving the island I flushed a Stone Curlew from beside the road. The drive back to Puetro Del Carmen resulted in a further 2 Southern Grey Shrikes.

Tuesday 12th March - FUETEVENTURA

I took a day trip to Fueventura, catching the 7am Armas ferry from Playa Blanca to Corralejo and the 6pm ferry back again. Total cost each way was E21 - E7 per car and E14 per passenger. Both Armas and Fred Olsen sail 5 or 6 times a day; Fred Olsen is quicker but more expensive whilst the Armas ferry has reportedly better sea-watching opportunities. Armas state a crossing time of 25 minutes but in reality it was closer to 40 minutes. The ferry crossing out produced 45 Cory's Shearwaters; the journey back saw over 250 including a dense raft of 200+ birds off Corralejo with more birds joining them off the hillside.

First stop was Las Salinas on the east coast (C&C site F7) where the small salt pans were completely deserted other than for workers. This now appears to be a working museum so i am not sure how many waders ever occur here now.

Then on to nearby Barranco de la Torre (also C&C site F7). Since publication there is now a large construction depot on the side of the barranco; I parked by the works and followed the fence line down into the valley and then walked north. Almost immediately I encountered a pair of FUETEVENTURA CHAT performing well; also noted in valley and accompanying tamarisks were Southern Grey Shrike, Kestrel, Raven, Collared Dove, Rock Dove, 2 Ruddy Shelduck, Hoopoe, Spectacled Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, BLACKCAP, Spanish Sparrow, Berthelot's Pipit, Linnet, Trumpeter Finch, Lesser Short-toed Lark and most pleasingly given the species' crash in Britain, several purring TURTLE DOVES.

I then headed south to Catalina Garcia (C&C site F5) to find a smart new hide and no water in the lagoon. A quick search of the adjacent tamarisks revealed nothing of significance. Then a pleasent drive through the mountains to reach Las Penitas (C&C site F4), a small lake nestling in a valley surrounded by impressive cliffs and hillsides. Despite the promise of Coot, Moorhen and waders the body of water only held 2 Ruddy Shelduck. The barranco leading down to Las Penitas from the village (Vega de Rio Palmas) had Berthelot's Pipit, Sardinian Warbler, 2 Southern Grey Shrikes, Spectacled Warbler, Trumpeter Finch, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Spanish Sparrow, Hoopoe, more Turtle Dove and African Blue Tit whilst circling overhead were at least 9 Raven and BUZZARD.

Then onto Los Molinos (C&C site F1) by which time the heat and sunstroke were really making me suffer. There was a plethora of waterfowl - 6 TEAL, c60 Ruddy Shelduck (including 2 fresh broods and 1 of several weeks old), 150+ COOT, 1 MOORHEN, the long-staying female RING-NECKED DUCK, an accompanying male TUFTED DUCK, Raven, Kestrel, 1 Common Sandpiper, 4 Greenshank and a pair of Fueteventura Stonechat by the dam. I would have liked to stayed longer and worked the plain for sandgrouse and vultures but given I was feeling rough I thought it was safer to start heading north.

I holed up at La Oliva (C&C site F3) where I had singing CORN BUNTING just east of the town, 2 male Fueteventura Stonechats at the fork in the track off the Caldereta road (just as described in C&C), Raven, Lesser Short-toed Lark, another Buzzard, Berthelot's Pipit and finally, just north of the town, 2 PLAIN SWIFTS low over the road.

13th-15th March

Apathy, inerta, some nice sun-bathing opportunities and the handing back of the hire car took over for the last few days.

The familiar walk from Matagorda to Playa Honda on the 13th produced Little Egret, Sandwich Tern, Whimbrel, Turnstone and Sanderling.

A walk into Puetro Del Carmen on the 14th saw a Little Egret, 7 Turnstones and 2 Common Sandpiper.

An early morning flight on the 15th saw me only encounter a calling Stone Curlew whilst waiting in the darkness for the transfer coach.


In total I encountered some 65 species on Lanzarote, far exceeding my expectations, with an additional 11 seen on Fueteventura. Whilst not having quite the same ornithological appeal as Tenerife or Fueteventura, the island is not to be overlooked with its birding potential and ability to generate good views of rare birds.

Phil,

Great reports. I am green with envy,

Peter

A nice, detailed report Phil. A good number of specialities with a sprinkling of sub-species. Excellent Winter birding and a bit of sun on your back, can't beat it.

Just out of interest, is Tony Clarke still arount these days?

Laurie:t:

Nice report, think you got everything possible.

rollingthunder said:

A nice, detailed report Phil. A good number of specialities with a sprinkling of sub-species. Excellent Winter birding and a bit of sun on your back, can't beat it.

Just out of interest, is Tony Clarke still arount these days?

Laurie:t:

Click to expand...

Think this answers your question Laurie: http://www.birdquest-tours.com/ourteam.cfm?team=3

Cheers for that, Phil, i did'nt think to look - i would love to bump into him again. Spent many happy hours on the Scillies, some of them outside of the Bishop and Wolf..............I intend visiting for more or less what you have seen at some stage so will contact him accordingly.

Thanks again -

Laurie:t:

Phil, I was on Lanzarote 25 Feb - 8 Mar, but dipped you.

I focused on the specialities, and found Houbaras far easier and more plentiful than on Fuerteventura. They were pretty much all over the El Jable/Teguise plain area, with a minimum of 20-odd individuals inc three plus displaying males and a group of 9. They were also staggeringly easy in the afternoon at the goat farm near Guatiza (but I dipped in the morning!).

Coursers were plentiful in the northern sandier areas of El Jable, heading east off the road between Soo and Munique; I also had one about 300m E of the L2 at El Rubicon. Stone-curlews were everywhere, including semi-cultivated terrain.

Did a fair bit of seawatching, particular after the Atlantic depression, moved through - but nothing more interesting than numerous Cory's and gannets. Canaries, as you say, were easy south of Haria.

The only 'scarce' I had was a Eurasian Sparrowhawk near Tinajo.

Of other taxa, I found butterflies commoner than on Fuerteventura; monarch and geranium bronze the best. Finally tracked down a couple of East Canarian Geckos, but not a schniff of the skink. The flora was outstanding, particularly south of Haria.

A selection of images are on http://www.pbase.com/james_lowen/fuerteventura_wildlife [which, despite the name of the link, has my Lanzarote pics on it as well].