On the road in Nova Scotia (1 Viewer)

[StuartReeves]

In the spirit of my previous Casual Eurolisting threads, I' m currently in Nova Scotia, having travelled over early to get some birding in before a work meeting next week. This thread will try and be a trip report with daily updates, hence its appearance under my birding day. Because I have the technology, I also hope to add some photos as I go.

 

[StuartReeves]

Day 1, Grand Pré to Brier Island

Evangeline beach near Grand Pré in Nova Scotia is renowned for very large flocks of passage waders, particularly Semi-palmated Sandpipers which are best seen as the rising tide concentrates them on the beach.. If my plane hadn’t been five hours late leaving Heathrow, then I might have go to see this spectacle, as I had booked my first nights accommodation in a motel right on the beach. Instead, I woke up the next morning to find that the tide was going out with a vengeance. Not only is Evangeline Beach on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, which has the highest tidal range in the world, the previous night had been a full moon, so it was going out even further than usual. As far as I could see the huge area of mud in front of me held only a few distant gulls, so I decided to cut my losses & head south.

My next destination was Brier Island, off of the south west corner of Nova Scotia. On route I stopped off at Halfway lake, on Digby Neck. The lake itself was apparently bird-free, but the car park produced the first warblers of the trip, a small group of Yellow-rumped Warblers.

Grabbing lunch on Brier Island, I noticed a distant flock of birds high over the island. Getting the bins on them I realised with a shock that they were all raptors, and that in the middle of them was what my instincts told me was a Golden Eagle. Remembering where I was, I managed to convince myself that it must in fact be a Bald Eagle. Bolting the remains of my meal I almost ran out of the door, and headed for the area known in my site guide as Brier’s version of Hawk Mountain, in that it is the best place on the island to watch raptor migration. And it didn’t disappoint. The large majority of the flock of at least a thousand birds, turned out to be Broad-winged Hawks, but there was also a scatter of Sharp-shinned Hawks, American Kestrels, Turkey Vultures and Merlins, as well as a single Osprey. The eagle also reappeared and proved to be a young Golden, and thus a relative rarity for the area.

I finished the day at the northern tip of the island for a bit of a seawatch in the warm sunshine. The conditions were flat calm and hardly conducive to seabird movement, but I did manage a smart drake White-winged Scoter, and a distant Great Shearwater, as well as some intriguing, though extremely distant, flocks of waders out over the sea. Birds are not the only feature of seawatching in this area, and I was not entirely surprised when a I saw a long, white nobbly appendage rise from the surface of the sea than splash down again., as this strange sight could only be a Humpback Whale lying on its side at the surface and slapping its fin. More of that tomorrow hopefully, when I have a whale watching trip booked.

 

[StuartReeves]

Some photos from day 1

 

[StuartReeves]

A couple of todays huge numbers of Broad-winged Hawks.

 

[Edward]

A good start to the trip Stuart (bar the delay at Heathrow). I've often fancied the Canadian Maritimes so I'll be following the updates with interest. The storm (the Son of Ike) that battered Iceland last night was over Nova Scotia only about 24 hours earlier so just one of those Broad-wings would be welcome here.

E

 

[StuartReeves]

Day 2, Brier Island

First light saw me at Northern Light, the northern tip of the island, known for its early movement bird movements. There was not a breathe of wind, and the early morning light combined with the eerie howling of the seals on the rocks nearby made for an incredibly atmospheric setting. As the sun rose birds started to appear in the small spruce trees of the headland. It made for some challenging but exciting birding, having to identify unfamiliar warblers on brief views. The birds flicking through In quick succession included Yellow Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler, Chestnut-sided Warbler, American Redstart, and Black-throated Green Warbler; every one a wee cracker. Birds were regularly flying up from the bushes and heading to the point, only to turn back and drop back in to cover, and occasional birds fell victim to cruising Sharp-shinned Hawks which were also migrating out. Northern Flickers were also showing the same migratory urge, looking both incongruous and spectacular as their colours caught the early morning sun as they dived back in to cover.
After a fine breakfast, waders were next on the agenda, at a tidal pond and cove on the western side of the island. Having dipped spectacularly the previous day, my particular target here was Semi-palmated Sandpiper, Arriving at the beach, I flushed a group of Turkey Vultures off of their breakfast, a dead baby seal. My first chance at my target almost met the same fate as the first waders I saw were a small group flushed by a Merlin which singled out the smallest bird in the group and gave chase. Once the waders settled down, I initially found Dunlin, Black-bellied Plover and Sanderling. These were then joined by two smart juvenile Baird’s Sandpipers. Then a flock of Semi-palmated Plovers joined the group, and tucked in amongst them were two of my target Semi-palmated Sandpipers. I also got to play the traditional BF game of guess the Yellowlegs, as two distant birds had me confused, before closer views showed them to be two Greaters. I think…

 

[StuartReeves]

Afternoon was whale-watch time. Strictly speaking the trip was a whale and seabird trip, but in the calm settled conditions, the seabirding was spectacularly unproductive. Some distant clouds of waders were identified by our guides as Phalaropes, probably mostly Reds, although this ID was based on local knowledge rather than any visible features. Other than that the bird highlight was a young Great Black-Backed Gull’s attempts at whale surfing. The whales themselves were much more obliging, with around ten different Humpbacks including a group of three males which waved and splashed their fins at us, and cruised right under the boat at one point, and even breached almost clean out of the water at one point. The views we had of three different Northern Right Whale were more distant, but more significant as although they are arguably less charismatic than Humpbacks, they are much rarer. With a world population of around 400 individuals it is easily the rarest animal I have ever seen.

 

[StuartReeves]

A good start to the trip Stuart (bar the delay at Heathrow). I've often fancied the Canadian Maritimes so I'll be following the updates with interest. The storm (the Son of Ike) that battered Iceland last night was over Nova Scotia only about 24 hours earlier so just one of those Broad-wings would be welcome here.

E

Hi Edward,

I can thoroughly recommend Brier Island for its fine birding, beautiful scenery and friendly, relaxed atmospere. At the moment it also has calm, settled, sunny weather, so on the down side, your chances of a stray Broad-wing are looking pretty slim right now.

Stuart

 

[StuartReeves]

Day 3, Brier Island

Thursday dawned still with low cloud, and there was a corresponding lack of bird activity at North Light. A few Northern Flickers were still around, but the only passerines to show were a White-throated Sparrow and two each of Yellow Warbler and Red-eyed Vireo. Over breakfast (definitely an important part of the day for me) the weather worsened, transforming itself into fog. Reasoning that there were still migrants on the island, I resorted to leg work to try and find them. This approach turned-up Osprey and Northern Harrier, and eventually a small warbler flock incuding Black-throated Green and Black and White Warblers and Golden-crowned Kinglet. Rather less expected was a flock of six White-winged Crossbills.

The weather improved substantially in the afternoon, and my plans to look for waders were derailed by the continual distraction of numerous raptors. There were still at least 200 Broad-winged Hawks around, as well as the juvenile Golden Eagle from earlier in the week. Apparently new were at least six Northern Harriers, including a particularly smart adult male, a Peregrine and a juvenile Bald Eagle.

I leave Brier tomorrow. Further installments are dependent on my accomodation having internet access. Watch this space.

 

[halftwo]

Great stuff Stuart, cheers.

 

[Jos Stratford]

Afternoon was whale-watch time.

Nice photographs, leaving aside the differing species, I have to confess to envy of such spectacle with the whales - mine sure did nothing so good!

 

[StuartReeves]

While there were a lot of warblers moving at first light today, a chilly breeze made it hard to nail them as they would dive in to the bushes at the point never to be seen again. As far as I could tell, the majority seemed to be black-throated Green Warblers. The Northern Flickers were even more conspicuous today, with at least fifty birds around at the point (see photo). Today, some of the local Sharpies were also indulging in a little sport, sending waves of panic through the screaming Flickers. After breakfast, I checked out of the lodge. As I walked to reception I was distracted by a cruising Northern Harrier, then as I left, a juvenile Bald Eagle drifted overhead. My plan was then to leave the island, but due to various ornithological distractions that didn’t happen until early afternoon. Instead I spent the morning chasing warblers and waders. While there weren’t many waders around, there was no hardship in sitting alone under the sun on a sandy beach lapped by a flat calm blue sea, while a flock of Sanderling with a lone Semi-palmated Sandpiper (photo) fed almost at my feet. There was also another rather fine migrant around in the shape of a Monarch butterfly.

Finally off the island, I am staying for the night in the pleasant, historic town of Annapolis Royal. By chance the accommodation I arbitrarily chose is right next to a marshland reserve, where a short evening stroll added Palm And Wilson’s to my warbler trip list.

 

[StuartReeves]

Nice photographs, leaving aside the differing species, I have to confess to envy of such spectacle with the whales - mine sure did nothing so good!

Fair enough, but Blue Whale is a bit of a bogey species for me; I've missed it off both Iceland and Australia. While Humpbacks can be real performers, they do have a tendency to steal the show. We we just closing in on a couple of Northern Right Whales, and coincidentally getting closer to the distant clouds of phalaropes, when the Humpbacks we had spent the previous hour or so with breached a couple of times. As a result, the Right Whales were quickly forgotten and it was full speed back to the Humpbacks! Now, just think what a sight a breaching Blue Whale would be...

 

[StuartReeves]

Day 5, Annapolis royal and Kejimkujik National Park

North American warblers are like sweeties, they come in many brightly coloured varieties, and they always leave you wanting more. With that in mind, I returned to the local Annapolis Royal marshland to try and find, and maybe even photograph, some more warblers. The odds were a bit against me given the large numbers of Yellow-rumped Warblers (or Butterbutts as they are appropriately known) around the reserve. It seemed that every tree held at least two or three Butterbutts, which made finding other warbler species a little tricky. Eventually I found a couple of Northern Parulas and Wilson’s Warblers, and a patch of low cover held a small group of Palm Warblers, along with a Yellow Warbler and a Tennessee Warbler – only my second new bird of the trip.

Next stop was Kejimkujik National Park. I wasn’t expecting much in the way of birds here, but was just intending to enjoy a walk in the park’s boreal forest habitat. I wasn’t pleasantly surprised as the mixed woodland of the Hemlocks and Hardwoods trail held a fine selection of birds. Most numerous were immaculate Blue-headed Vireos, but other highlights include a scatter of Hermit Thrushes, some pristine Ovenbirds, and of course, another fix of warblers, this time including Black and White, Blackpoll and Blackburnian. Any one of these would be a major draw should it make it across the Atlantic, but despite comments on other threads, it is easy to lose sight of the fact that the best place for North American birds is North America.

Overnight in Liverpool, which, as you might expect, is a port on the mouth of the Mersey river.

 

[mollymawk]

As I expected, good light, excellent birds and not many people. What more can you ask for - the exact opposite of the south of England.

Looking forward to Oman in a few weeks time where I trust the Nova Scotia conditions will be repeated but with a slightly higher temperature.

A bried respite from Bluetongue and painting windows has rewarded me with flight shots of Kestrel and Hobby (the latter food passing. See:http://picasaweb.google.com/fancystoats/SomersetBirds#.

See you soon.

 

[dacoj3]

North American warblers are like sweeties, they come in many brightly coloured varieties, and they always leave you wanting more.

Overnight in Liverpool, which, as you might expect, is a port on the mouth of the Mersey river.

Stuart, your pictures are just stunning.

So do they have a Liver building there?

 

[Edward]

Terrific pictures, Stuart (I particularly like the monchrome background to the BW Warbler) and a couple to make me envious: after two spring trips to the US and almost 30 warblers later, I still haven't managed to find one of the most common, Palm.

As for the whales then you are right, Humpbacks do tend to steal the show. One animal breached nearly 300 times in a row over a period of three hours in Husavik in NE Iceland two years ago. The two Blue Whales I saw didn't do anything as exciting: it's just seeing half the horizon rise out of the water and the realisation that you are actually looking at a Blue Whale that makes them so special.

And Butterbutt is the most hideous bird jargon I've ever heard, worse than the heinous PG Tips.

Any more instalments to come?

E

 

[Jos Stratford]

Any more instalments to come?

Last heard of heading into Liverpool II, maybe it is a black hole.

 

[StuartReeves]

Any more instalments to come?

E

Well there was supposed to be, but internet access in Halifax was less straightforward than anticipated. So, somewhat delayed, here it is.

My last day on the road was spent in another part of Kejimkujic National Park, appropriately known as Kejimkujic Seaside. While it was a great walk in superb weather and scenery, my wildlife tally was limited. It came to something like:

Large frog: three
Large toad: one
Small snake: two
Porcupine: one

Oh and a handful of Palm Warblers (sorry Edward) and the usual Double-crested Cormorants, Eider and large gulls.

In the absence of wildlife pics, here's some Kejimkujic scenery. And a large toad.

 

[StuartReeves]

And Butterbutt is the most hideous bird jargon I've ever heard, worse than the heinous PG Tips.
E

Have to say, I don't mind Butterbutt for Yellow-rumped Warbler. Leaving aside the Last Tango in Paris connotations, it displays a bit more imagination and originality than corruptions like PG tips. It's also better than another corruption I found myself using. American Herring Gulls are that rarest of things, a large gull where the juveniles are relatively distinctive and even quite smart, hence they really don't deserve the epithet 'Smicker'.

Below:

1, Butterbutt and proud of it
2, a Smicker looking suitably embarassed
3 and 4, More scenery, this time around West Light on Brier Island.

Lots more photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/sardine17/NovaScotiaSeptember2008#