Hi Peter,
another vote for the MM 60 ED, provided it checks out... 60 mm aperture can be used as your only scope while 50 mm like on the Kowa is usually only a lightweight option along sth larger. You might want to sell off one of the two EPs coming with it as 20x and 23x are not really a lot different and get either a zoom (SDLv2,3,4 are all very nice, HDF is also good but not waterproof) or a fixed mag wide angle EP in the 30-45x range...
You should check the mechanics (focus drive should be smooth from minimum focus distance to beyond infinity), tripod mount (thread should be ok and tripod head should sit firm when the screw is tightened) and the rest of the body (the MM3 doesn't seem to have a retractable lens hood).
Also you should check the view at all possible magnifications - in your case with 20x and 23x EPs both should of course deliver a bright and crisp image. At 60x things might look different...
As for looking for fungus or other internal problems... first observe a well lit white piece of paper at close range so all the image circle is white. If it isn't, move around a bit and hope it was just some shadow... if you really see dark spots or larger darker areas which stay on their position when the scope is moved a bit, sth is seriously wrong.
You might unscrew and turn the EP a few degrees and check if the spots move along - in that case the problem is in the EP and the other EP might be ok... if you're lucky, it's just something on the front element of the EP and can be cleaned ot blown away (if you have a lens brush and or blower, take it)
If the darker areas (sharp dark spots should always be in or very close to the focal plane just behind the front element of the EP) don't move when the EP is turned a bit, there is probably sth on or inside the prism system or the protective glass (if present). If you're lucky, it's just on the outside and can be cleaned.
You can use a flashlight to look for dirt, fungus or other problems inside the EPs and body... things you absolutely don't want, are any problems close to the focal plane (usually just behind the front element of the EP - that's the lens on opposite end of the eyelens..,), as these will most probably be visible when using the instrument. You also don't want anything larger than tiny round dots and/or asymmetric things inside, that are not obviously a speck of dust.
Tiny round dots on the inside optical surfaces of the instrument are usually gassed out and then re-condensed lubricants and no big deal - you might use them as a bit of leverage in the negotiations - they won't affect the view unless it's really hazy areas.
If the imperfections look like feathers or ice or snow crystals, they migth be fungus and thus might get worse... don't get a scope with these!
Larger asymmetric imperfections might be lens or coating defects and I would probably want to check with a higher magnification EP if these are visible then before buying... at a significant discount...
Joachim