Totnes has a secret legacy of sea bird dishes. Over the centuries, this secluded area of South Devon has come up with a number of ways of cooking the herring gull (Larus argentatus). Despite the unfashionable idea of eating sea gulls, the thrill of eating one of the many superb delicacies on offer still tempts the seabird connoisseur. Traditional dishes such as gull pie, marinated gull and mint, smoked gull souffle and roast gull have been extended by inventive offerings such as chillied gull with ginger, gull veronique and gull mousse through to the offbeat "lashings of larus". However, despite its bulky size, the gull is largely composed of feathers. One gull doesn't go very far. It is not a chicken - or a turkey. Serious gull cuisine needs considerable numbers of birds with which to prepare the dish.