Planned trip to Costa Rica (1 Viewer)

seasgaich · Feb 11, 2015

Hello there,

I am due to retire from work in 2016, and hope to spend 6 weeks with my wife in Costa Rica. I should say at the outset that we intend to make this as fulfilling a holiday as possible, but NOT working with an unlimited budget, so any help in moderately priced options would be very welcome.

From the little I've gleaned so far, relatively inexpensive accommodation options seem to be available, and quite a few appear to offer excellent birding opportunities in themselves. My wife is much more interested in the wider scope of wildlife (butterflies and other insects, mammals, flora, et c.). It strikes me that we might profitably base ourselves in perhaps 4 main locations and not be in any way disappointed.

At this early stage, I would appreciate any assistance whatever. A combination of coast, cloud forest/volcanic areas, river and lake. What time of the year is best? How good is public transport for getting around? Although not averse to car hire, we don't envisage, for instance, long-distance day trips on our own, so having a hired car that's doing nothing might not be the best option.

Would anyone, for instance, have any experience of linking several places we could stay, and use these as bases for our day trips?

Any help greatly appreciated!
Gary and Rosemary Aitken, Scotland

gdhunter · Feb 11, 2015

seasgaich said:
At this early stage, I would appreciate any assistance whatever. A combination of coast, cloud forest/volcanic areas, river and lake. What time of the year is best? How good is public transport for getting around? Although not averse to car hire, we don't envisage, for instance, long-distance day trips on our own, so having a hired car that's doing nothing might not be the best option.

A friend & I stayed a month in Manzanillo (in the southeast corner, a hop & skip from Panama) with no transportation other than our own feet. Patrick O'Donnell has extolled the region as a virtually undiscovered gem, and I agree. Extensive lowland rainforest habitat, and we often found some of our best birding along the highway (rarely busy) between Manzanillo and Punta Uva.

Gary H

Hamhed · Feb 12, 2015

With six weeks and an interest in everything, I would hardly know where to start with any advice for your trip. As for transport, you should try reading this thread on Costa Rica travel:
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=287437

If I had to choose just four locations, I might just go insane in the process. I'm partial to the Sarapiqui area and love being in the higher elevations anywhere. As to lodging cost, Costa Rica is getting more expensive every year and will probably be more so by 2016 so it is good you are starting to investigate this early.

Steve

seasgaich · Feb 13, 2015

gdhunter said:
A friend & I stayed a month in Manzanillo (in the southeast corner, a hop & skip from Panama) with no transportation other than our own feet. Patrick O'Donnell has extolled the region as a virtually undiscovered gem, and I agree. Extensive lowland rainforest habitat, and we often found some of our best birding along the highway (rarely busy) between Manzanillo and Punta Uva.

Gary H

Much obliged for your thoughts. I like the sound of an apparently quiet place like Manzanillo, which must surely have reasonable wildlife potential other than of the avian sort. The trip may represent a sole lifetime opportunity, for instance, for us to see such creatures as cayman or howler monkey, or some of the exotic butterflies.

I was merely fishing when I ventured my first post. From what I have read so far, perhaps Manzanillo for 14 days, somewhere in the highlands for a fortnight, and somewhere on the west coast, with the option of a day on one of the ferries, might be a sensible mix.

I have also read briefly about San Jose and its environs, which suggest profitable days spent there too.

My mouth is watering at any of these prospects!

Again, thanks for your enthusiastic reply.

Gary

seasgaich · Feb 13, 2015

Hamhed said:
With six weeks and an interest in everything, I would hardly know where to start with any advice for your trip. As for transport, you should try reading this thread on Costa Rica travel:
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=287437

If I had to choose just four locations, I might just go insane in the process. I'm partial to the Sarapiqui area and love being in the higher elevations anywhere. As to lodging cost, Costa Rica is getting more expensive every year and will probably be more so by 2016 so it is good you are starting to investigate this early.

Steve

Thanks indeed for your reply.

Your advocacy of Sarapiqui and the highlands has not missed the mark. As our thoughts gradually begin to acquire better focus, it is this sort of enthusiastic input and reports on such areas that will very likely help us formulate a (hopefully) sensible plan.

We will develop your Sarapiqui idea and see what we can come up with. As you say, prices in CR are expanding in response to increased popularity. Excepting some of the high-end places, there still seem to be enough mid-price alternatives, several of which offer things like aerial walkways and access to areas of water.

Have you ever ventured to the west coast, and perhaps used one of the ferries for a pelagic excursion? I have already read one reference elsewhere and that too seems very attractive, although it would be good to hear about other things on that western side as well.

Once again, much obliged for your help.

Gary

Hamhed · Feb 13, 2015

Gary -
I haven't tried that yet. I don't think it is a common practice as it is in the US. Patrick O'Donnell may be able to shed light on that. He wrote about it some time ago on his blog:
http://birdingcraft.com/wordpress/2010/11/16/pelagic-day-trip-off-the-pacific-coast-of-costa-rica/
You would do well to peruse his entries but I warn you, there are years of information to get through, all of it enjoyable reading.
In April, I am going to Sarapiqui and staying here:
http://www.heliconiaisland.com/
I have stayed in several places in the area including Posada Christina, El Gavilan, Tirimbina and Rara Avis. La Selva is presently too expensive for my budget and I haven't tried Selva Verde, La Quinta or any other of the many choices in that area. There are surely more lower budget options I haven't had the time or need to research as Heleconia Island is hard to move away from.
There are endless options on the Pacific side of the mountains also. Someone else will surely chime in with their favorites.

Steve

njlarsen · Feb 14, 2015

The area around Carara is well known for the birding - I stayed at Cerro Lodge at my only visit to that area. But I do not know if that is the part of the west coast you are thinking about.

Niels

seasgaich · Feb 15, 2015

Hamhed said:
Gary -
I haven't tried that yet. I don't think it is a common practice as it is in the US. Patrick O'Donnell may be able to shed light on that. He wrote about it some time ago on his blog:
http://birdingcraft.com/wordpress/2010/11/16/pelagic-day-trip-off-the-pacific-coast-of-costa-rica/
You would do well to peruse his entries but I warn you, there are years of information to get through, all of it enjoyable reading.
In April, I am going to Sarapiqui and staying here:
http://www.heliconiaisland.com/
I have stayed in several places in the area including Posada Christina, El Gavilan, Tirimbina and Rara Avis. La Selva is presently too expensive for my budget and I haven't tried Selva Verde, La Quinta or any other of the many choices in that area. There are surely more lower budget options I haven't had the time or need to research as Heleconia Island is hard to move away from.
There are endless options on the Pacific side of the mountains also. Someone else will surely chime in with their favorites.

Steve

Hello Steve,

Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I'm sure that you'll get round to reporting on your experiences at Heliconia Island, and that will be an interesting read. I've had a look at their site, and am already struck by the images and prices. Albeit that things will undoubtedly morph in the time between now and our actual visit, our expectations would be for plenty of wildlife variety, opportunities for DIY and guided excursions, and a good image of the countryside, topography and hopefully also the people.

I look forward to getting torn into Patrick's blog.

Once again, many thanks for your well-considered help!

Gary

seasgaich · Feb 15, 2015

njlarsen said:
The area around Carara is well known for the birding - I stayed at Cerro Lodge at my only visit to that area. But I do not know if that is the part of the west coast you are thinking about.

Niels

Hello Niels,

Thank you for your reply.

Cerro Lodge looks good. I have already sent a tentative enquiry to them about availability and prices!

I'm not sure how to play the 'west coast' thing. I have read somewhere that the littoral can be brilliant for waders, and it would be exciting to be able to fit in a pelagic option to our grand scheme, perhaps using one of the ferries, but we'll see.

I am going to utilise Patrick's blogs on this area, so things will hopefully become clearer anon.

Again, many thanks.

Gary

njlarsen · Feb 15, 2015

Gary, the little boat ride on the river at tarcoles (near Carara) was worth it when I was there. Some shorebirds etc in addition to the mangrove birds.

Niels

Hamhed · Feb 16, 2015

seasgaich said:
Hello Steve,
Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I'm sure that you'll get round to reporting on your experiences at Heliconia Island, and that will be an interesting read. I've had a look at their site, and am already struck by the images and prices.
Gary

The trip report is here:
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=160995&highlight=heleconia+island+lodge
Scroll down to page 20 to find the Heleconia Island related part. At the beginning are some words on our stay at Cerro Lodge.
I assume you are aware that archived on BirdForum are numerous trip reports on Costa Rica containing a good bit of useful information.
We've talked about Carribean and Pacific; don't forget the higher elevations. Vulcan Poas would be most convenient and, with an active volcano to visit, hard NOT to consider.

Steve

seasgaich · Feb 16, 2015

Hamhed said:
The trip report is here:
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=160995&highlight=heleconia+island+lodge
Scroll down to page 20 to find the Heleconia Island related part. At the beginning are some words on our stay at Cerro Lodge.
I assume you are aware that archived on BirdForum are numerous trip reports on Costa Rica containing a good bit of useful information.
We've talked about Carribean and Pacific; don't forget the higher elevations. Vulcan Poas would be most convenient and, with an active volcano to visit, hard NOT to consider.

Steve

Good man! That's the trouble with grazing these blogs. I had taken your earlier reference to Heliconia as a planned trip, but it turned out to be historical instead.

We are off to Almería in Spain for a fortnight, but I'll be wiring in to this site when we return.

Meantime, happy birding, and thanks for your help so far!

Gary

tapaculo · Mar 10, 2015

You asked about information on the "western side." I enjoyed our stay at La Ensenada in January, and saw most of the mangrove birds and a number of NW specialties. I don't know when you will be traveling; the Lawson book mentions it as the place to find bellbirds at that point in their altitudinal migration, and there were a couple present.

seasgaich · Mar 13, 2015

Western CR information

tapaculo said:
You asked about information on the "western side." I enjoyed our stay at La Ensenada in January, and saw most of the mangrove birds and a number of NW specialties. I don't know when you will be traveling; the Lawson book mentions it as the place to find bellbirds at that point in their altitudinal migration, and there were a couple present.

Hello there,

Much obliged for your reply. Following our holiday in the Cabo de Gata region of Almería in southern Spain, I'm only just beginning to think once more about this. Firstly, we have never been to Costa Rica before, and this is likely to be a lifetime visit. My plan is to make the most of our trip to C. R., a 'treat' when I retire in early 2017, extending possibly to 6 weeks. I know virtually nothing about things like flights from the UK (we live in Inverness in northern Scotland), health issues, et c.. Birding will be my chief focus, although we are keen on all wildlife, and butterflies are my wife's big draw.

Even at this early stage, I would envisage basing ourselves in 3 locations: the eastern side, the mountains and the western side. The country strikes me as being quite compact, although getting around might be tricky. That leads to another issue: car hire. We usually use a car to help us move about a country, but hire for the complete period has to be a wasteful option, and we want to keep within a reasonable budget. If we were in the west, for instance, judging by some of the blogs, a pelagic trip is a tantalising possibility.

Did you write a report of your La Ensenada visit? Were you staying at the lodge there? Can you give me any idea of approximate costs?

Once again, thanks for your interest, and we look forward to hearing from you again.

Gary and Rosemary

njlarsen · Mar 13, 2015

CR is compact but it also has roads that are not that fast (at least they were not when I visited. If 6 weeks I would probably choose 6 regions. Just to mention one part: the north west is a completely different habitat from the area around Carara on the central west coast, and the peninsula to the south has again some different birds.

Niels

seasgaich · Mar 13, 2015

Planning for CR trip

njlarsen said:
CR is compact but it also has roads that are not that fast (at least they were not when I visited. If 6 weeks I would probably choose 6 regions. Just to mention one part: the north west is a completely different habitat from the area around Carara on the central west coast, and the peninsula to the south has again some different birds.

Niels

Many thanks, Niels. Your thoughts on the varied western zones are duly noted.
Gary

tapaculo · Mar 14, 2015

seasgaich said:
... we have never been to Costa Rica before, and this is likely to be a lifetime visit. My plan is to make the most of our trip to C. R., a 'treat' when I retire in early 2017, extending possibly to 6 weeks...
... Even at this early stage, I would envisage basing ourselves in 3 locations: the eastern side, the mountains and the western side. The country strikes me as being quite compact, although getting around might be tricky. That leads to another issue: car hire....
Gary and Rosemary

I was in exactly the same position a year ago: planning a post-retirement trip, my first and only to CR (though I've been in the Neotropics a lot), debating whether to drive myself, etc. I will respond about La Ensenada, and give other answers and opinions, but my main advice is, before you expend one more thought about your trip, you must get Barrett Lawson's "A Bird-Finding Guide to Costa Rica" (ISBN 978-0-8014-7584-9). It gives an overview that will provide a context for evaluating different options, an explanation of the bioregions (there are more than 3!), description of scores of the best sites, sample itineraries, a summary of where to find all the target spp., etc. etc. It won't answer questions about cost and driving, but this is where you have to start.
Steve

gdhunter · Mar 14, 2015

seasgaich said:
Firstly, we have never been to Costa Rica before, and this is likely to be a lifetime visit. My plan is to make the most of our trip to C. R., a 'treat' when I retire in early 2017, extending possibly to 6 weeks.

Fair warning. Back in 2008 I was the designated trip coordinator for a group of friends planning a "once-in-a-lifetime trip" to Costa Rica, and we've been back every year since then! The place is addictive. We have usually dedicated each trip to one or two regions (Golfo Dulce, Sarapiqui, Talamancas, etc.). One friend and I spent a month in Manzanillo, and it still seemed too short!

The people are friendly and helpful. Travel time can be frustratingly prolonged, and unexpected delays are not uncommon. It usually takes me a while to adapt to the more casual concept of timeliness that prevails there and in most of Latin America, but once you do so you'll find the effort worthwhile.

My point being: don't be surprised if you find that a stay of six weeks only whets your appetite for more time in a country of such rich biological diversity.

And you may find yourself embracing the national motto (Pura Vida) and checking out real estate.

Gary H

seasgaich · Mar 15, 2015

Guide advice

tapaculo said:
I was in exactly the same position a year ago: planning a post-retirement trip, my first and only to CR (though I've been in the Neotropics a lot), debating whether to drive myself, etc. I will respond about La Ensenada, and give other answers and opinions, but my main advice is, before you expend one more thought about your trip, you must get Barrett Lawson's "A Bird-Finding Guide to Costa Rica" (ISBN 978-0-8014-7584-9). It gives an overview that will provide a context for evaluating different options, an explanation of the bioregions (there are more than 3!), description of scores of the best sites, sample itineraries, a summary of where to find all the target spp., etc. etc. It won't answer questions about cost and driving, but this is where you have to start.
Steve

Many thanks, Steve,

Excellent feedback. I have already ordered that book from a UK supplier, and can't wait to get stuck into it.

I've probably cultivated a sanguine attitude to seeing new birds over the years - it is a cushion against the customary disappointments of missing things - but in truth, of course I would like to see and be able to identify as many birds on any visit as I possibly can. Much of our time will undoubtedly also be spent peering at creatures we have never seen, like cayman or perhaps tapir, to say nothing of reptiles, or even less of butterflies, moths and insects. We'll need sizeable card resources for our cameras, and will hopefully find frequent opportunities to sit or stand and take things in. Platforms, hides, aerial walkways, balconies at various accommodations, perhaps even car windows - we hope we experience the thrill of observation from such situations.

I look forward to hearing from you again.

Thanks again!
Gary

seasgaich · Mar 15, 2015

Costa Rica's temptations

gdhunter said:
Fair warning. Back in 2008 I was the designated trip coordinator for a group of friends planning a "once-in-a-lifetime trip" to Costa Rica, and we've been back every year since then! The place is addictive. We have usually dedicated each trip to one or two regions (Golfo Dulce, Sarapiqui, Talamancas, etc.). One friend and I spent a month in Manzanillo, and it still seemed too short!

The people are friendly and helpful. Travel time can be frustratingly prolonged, and unexpected delays are not uncommon. It usually takes me a while to adapt to the more casual concept of timeliness that prevails there and in most of Latin America, but once you do so you'll find the effort worthwhile.

My point being: don't be surprised if you find that a stay of six weeks only whets your appetite for more time in a country of such rich biological diversity.

And you may find yourself embracing the national motto (Pura Vida) and checking out real estate.

Gary H

All points duly noted.

I wish I had discovered the joys of birdwatching earlier in life, and wish that I was much younger.

I certainly hope that my appetite is whetted. As I have said elsewhere, my wife and I would savour many hours spent sitting or standing, and taking in what we can from benches, hides, aerial walkways, car windows, and so on. We hope that such opportunities are very numerous.

Thanks for your encouraging reply,
Gary

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