cleaning binocular lenses (1 Viewer)

How do you clean yours?

I use a quality chamois, as recommended by Leica. It is good but not when the lenses are wet. Having spent the day at the coast, my bins were somewhat salt-sprayed, so when I got home I gently rinsed them under the cold tap, then left them to drip dry. I had a go at cleaning them before they had fully dried to avoid water marks, but it's not easy.

I was wondering if distilled water was a good solvent to use in association with a cleaning cloth, such as a chamois?

I appreciate any hints and tips you have, and anything that's worked particularly well for you, at home or in the field.

I've damaged my eyeglasses by using Kleenex and TP for cleaning - never again. It seems very soft but is actually a wood product.

The most important thing is to get all the dust off the lenses, anything that can potentially scratch it. I have a blower (the type that you squeeze) and a brush, sometimes I even rinse the lense under running water.

Then I apply some anti-fog cleaning solution, and in circular motion dry/wipe it off. I like the soft microfiber cloth from Zeiss. I also like the cloth that comes with Swarovski units. You have to wash them on a weekly basis as they seem to catch dust.

It helps to have a good coating that resists lense damage.

I've come to realize that if in doubt, don't clean. I've done far more damage to optics by obsessively cleaning than not cleaning at all. It helps to have an objective cover.

Agree with etc. If I have been watching near the shore, I hold my bins under a tap for a while to remove sand/salt/grit. Otherwise, it is blower and microfiber cloths for me as well.

Dialyt said:

How do you clean yours?

I was wondering if distilled water was a good solvent to use in association with a cleaning cloth, such as a chamois?

I appreciate any hints and tips you have, and anything that's worked particularly well for you, at home or in the field.

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Hi

One of the easiest cleaning soloutions i have found to use is distilled water mixed with isapropyl alcohol
This allows very gentle cleaning if you use cotton wool swabs and draw them over the lenses slowly
Most of the mixture evaporates swiftly without leaving too much residue
Obviously a blower is used first to rid large specks etc
Afterward a gentle polish with clean micro fibre cloth brings back to near new
Most glass cleaning fluids contain isapropyl

Regards
Rich T

Does it matter which make/quality of microfibre cloth you use? I see examples from SIGMA and PENTAX for under or around a fiver, as well as some more interesting products:

There is an interesting design which looks like it may be useful for field use: Spudz 6x6 - Blue Lightning - http://www.warehouseexpress.com/product/default.aspx?sku=1013791

Visible Dust Magic Cleaner - http://www.warehouseexpress.com/product/default.aspx?sku=1011970

There is also this solution: Visible Dust Lens Clean - http://www.warehouseexpress.com/product/default.aspx?sku=1013210

Please let me know which you think would be best!

Hi Dialyt;

My advice about cleaning is “DON’T”. If you feel you must, avoid any rubbing motion and, in a very good light, check to be sure there are no particles on the lens. I am at work right now and do not have time to get into this discussion. I, personally, will not use solutions made for eyeglasses since most are uncoated.

Just this weekend I had a chance to check a set of Swaro 8x30 SLC WB that were down on transmission. After doing some checking I found the oculars coatings damaged by cleaning. The pictures attached look a lot worse than the binos do in real life because of the trouble I had lighting them for photos. Visually all you saw was what looked like a light fingerprint on the right ocular, the bright area in the photo. This individual cleans lenses with isopropyl alcohol and a napkin or paper towel.

Shown for comparison is an 8x20 curve that I had professionally measured as one of my reference set to compare to. This Swaro may be Swarobright, but I did not think so.

My main thought about this is whether you would rather be down in transmission due to dirty lenses or damaged coatings.

I will check back later today.

Ron

Surveyor said:

Hi Dialyt;

My advice about cleaning is “DON’T”. If you feel you must, avoid any rubbing motion and, in a very good light, check to be sure there are no particles on the lens. I am at work right now and do not have time to get into this discussion. I, personally, will not use solutions made for eyeglasses since most are uncoated.

Just this weekend I had a chance to check a set of Swaro 8x30 SLC WB that were down on transmission. After doing some checking I found the oculars coatings damaged by cleaning. The pictures attached look a lot worse than the binos do in real life because of the trouble I had lighting them for photos. Visually all you saw was what looked like a light fingerprint on the right ocular, the bright area in the photo. This individual cleans lenses with isopropyl alcohol and a napkin or paper towel.

Shown for comparison is an 8x20 curve that I had professionally measured as one of my reference set to compare to. This Swaro may be Swarobright, but I did not think so.

My main thought about this is whether you would rather be down in transmission due to dirty lenses or damaged coatings.

I will check back later today.

Ron

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Ron,
Thanks for posting the great advice and those photos. I agree that one should keep lens cleaning to an absolute minimum. However, I believe that cleaning lenses is not harmful to the lenses if one uses proper methods. I will refer to your photos often, to remind me how important it is to use proper lens cleaning methods. Thanks again.

Dialyt,
I clean my lenses as follows (depending on the need):

1. I follow Ron's advice and I "DON'T."

2. Air stream from "bulb/brush," syringe (w/o needle), air pump, etc. This will remove most foreign matter (dust, lint, etc). I never use the canned/compressed air cleaners used for computers, as they may contain pretroleum distillates.

3. Carefully rinse with tepid water (when avail.) to remove abrasive particles, as well as salt spray.

4. Very gently use distilled water mixed with isopropyl alcohol with microfiber sheets that are designed for lens cleaning. This will remove oils from fingerprints as well as most other smudges. I only do this when necessary, and ONLY then after performing steps 2 or 3 (or both) to MAKE SURE that any abrasive matter has been removed. I NEVER use napkins, paper towels, bath tisues, etc, as they can contain abrasive particles such as grit, wood fibers, etc.

I hope that this helps. Dialyt, best to you, Ron, and all.

Ron Davidson

Zeiss has a pdf booklet on cleaning optics. To put it briefly, they recommend the use of 100% certified pure cotton (to be wrapped around wooden sticks) and petroleum ether (boiling point max +44 C) or alternatively 85% petroleum ether + 15% isopropanol. (They also teach the correct cleaning procedure but I cannot repeat it here).

The problem is that those ingredients are not easy to find.

Heikki

DrHPI said:

Zeiss has a pdf booklet on cleaning optics. To put it briefly, they recommend the use of 100% certified pure cotton (to be wrapped around wooden sticks) and petroleum ether (boiling point max +44 C) or alternatively 85% petroleum ether + 15% isopropanol.

Heikki

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Thanks Heikki, I will try to find that pdf. If you have a link, I would appreciate that.

My cleaning kit consists of the following:

Surgical type cotton swabs (lint free)
3 oz. Atomizer type of spray bottle filled with distilled water
Small camels-hair brush with bulb type air blower
Microfiber cleaning cloth (I prefer Leica, seems like smaller fibers, but I have not noticed any difference with other brands)
Zeiss lens cleaner for coated optics (3 oz. Bottle about $5)

I also have a couple of boxes of Bausch & Lomb Sight Savers but I never touch a coated optic with them. They are used for glasses and filters or similar items that collect a lot of fingerprints somehow.

Most of the time I find that I only need to clean the ocular end and very seldom need to do the objectives as often. I assume this is due to the moisture that the eyes generate.

I start by lightly spraying a cotton swab with distilled water and dabbing (not rubbing) particles off of the lens. I do this in direct sunlight (preferred) or a 150-watt halogen light. If there are very few particles on the lens and they are only around the edge, I will use a brush with very light, short strokes to remove them.

Next, I take a microfiber cloth and gently wipe from lens center toward the edge (not circular) and then look again for particles. If this does not do the job, then I will moisten cloth with distilled water and repeat with increased pressure, if needed (sometimes, I will just moisten with breath). I do not use tap water at all; my area has very hard water with a lot of calcium/lime in it.

The next step will be the lens cleaning solution, but I have had it for about 3 years and not opened the bottle yet. So far the steps up to wiping with a microfiber cloth have kept my lenses clean enough to suit me. Others may want to go farther.

The final thing to emphasize to clean the Microfiber cloth after each use. I use distilled water to rinse out (main thing is to get rid of any particulate that may have embedded itself).

Most will consider this overkill but I have found that if I make cleaning a structured PITA, I will tend not to over clean the optics.

I am sure that there are many more methods that will give satisfactory results and this is just my way. Find what works best for you. The main point is to watch for grit/sand or other particulate. That is were the trouble lies.

Ron

Thanks guys for the tips.

I find my lenses to be in the worst mess after coming in from birding in the rain. It seems pointless cleaning them when the unit is still wet, but then if you let them dry first, water stains are formed on the surface of the lenses.

I bought a B + W Photo Clear Cleaning Cloth ( http://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=1111&IID=2059 ) and a Spudz 6x6 cleaning cloth ( http://www.llamasphoto.co.uk/spudz.htm )

I'm not sure if these are the best solution for cleaning Leica lenses. Can someone comment on my choices?

Dialyt said:

I'm not sure if these are the best solution for cleaning Leica lenses. Can someone comment on my choices?

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This topic has been discussed many times in the past.

Download and print the Zeiss brochure on how to clean microscopes:

http://www.zeiss.ca/C1256EEC002CF587...256EF5003923E1

It's professional advice.
What works for a microscope will work for a scope and binoculars.
Scopes and binoculars are more durable than microscope lenses due to their coatings.

Forget the rest.

Thomas

ThoLa said:

This topic has been discussed many times in the past.

Download and print the Zeiss brochure on how to clean microscopes:

http://www.zeiss.ca/C1256EEC002CF587...256EF5003923E1

It's professional advice.
What works for a microscope will work for a scope and binoculars.
Scopes and binoculars are more durable than microscope lenses due to their coatings.

Forget the rest.

Thomas

Click to expand...

Hey could you email the PDF to me? I got this error message on clicking your link:

Http Status Code: 404

Reason: File not found or unable to read file

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Dialyt said:

Hey could you email the PDF to me? I got this error message on clicking your link:

Click to expand...

Okay, maybe you try this:

http://www.zeiss.de/C12567BE0045ACF1/Contents-Frame/3576183A293B813AC1256DFF00545ECC

It worked for me a minute ago.
If not, let us know.
Tom

ThoLa said:

Okay, maybe you try this:

http://www.zeiss.de/C12567BE0045ACF1/Contents-Frame/3576183A293B813AC1256DFF00545ECC

It worked for me a minute ago.
If not, let us know.
Tom

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This only shows a list of brochures regarding different microscopes, but if you put "cleaning" in the search mask, you will quickly find what you're looking for. :t:

dcjs said:

This only shows a list of brochures regarding different microscopes, but if you put "cleaning" in the search mask, you will quickly find what you're looking for. :t:

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You just follow the roadsigns:

to the Brochures

and there you are.
I trust most users here can read and press buttons

T

The only issue is where to obtain these components. The cotton balls I see are not consumer grade and neither is anything else on the list.

etc said:

The only issue is where to obtain these components. The cotton balls I see are not consumer grade and neither is anything else on the list.

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A pharmacy should be able to provide all you need.
Mind: Microscopic systems are much more sensitive than binoculars. They are not made to be out in the rain, not meant to travel in the backseat of a car, not meant to go canoeing, ....

So for a bino you may not need lab grade chemicals; you just have to make sure they do not contain additives (denaturing agents).

There are also special lens systems for microscopy that are not compatible with external coatings like you have on your binos. So some of the advice given in the brochure is an "overkill" with respect to binos and field scopes but it contains a lot of sensible advice anyway.

Best, Tom

PS: A single microscope objective for fluorescence microscopy the size of a woman's little finger with lenses the size of sandgrains can easily triumph over any UltraQuit EL binocular in terms of price.
And the "micros" usually belong to your boss, too!
So when you're in charge of maintaing them as I was for many years you take some extra care.
One of my former colleagues once managed to coat a 100x Zeiss objektive with pink nailpolish. :-C
No, we were not amused. :C

I'm not saying this is right, but I've been using washing up water for years on various binoculars. One pair of Opticron Porro's has been cleaned regularly this way for over 15 years and shows no sign of damage, likewise my B & L elites have been getting cleaned this way for around 5 years (plus my specs).
I use clean washing up water (i.e. before the pots go in!!!), and wipe the lenses with a wet dishcloth, then dry with piece of kitchen roll. Works for me, don't know if anyone else does this.
I'll now wait for 'washing up liquid horror stories' to be posted.

p.s....I only use fairy liquid (if its kind to hands it must be kind to bins)

cheers Tom.

"It's professional advice.
What works for a microscope will work for a scope and binoculars.
Scopes and binoculars are more durable than microscope lenses due to their coatings."

Sorry - BUT - whatever you may think, coatings are NOT more durable - how could they be? Every photograper has known that for years - use e.g. impregnated cloths that you would use on plain glass - a lot contain mild abrasives - and you are polishing the coating away. That's why the likes of Leica etc. say use a soft clean cloth and wash it when it get dirty or rinse under plain water. You might as well use washing powder . . .

The glass is much harder than the coating - but its your choice . . .

Mike

PS Steve J - just seen yours - note I said washing powder, not implying washing up liquid horror - oh no! - the Quatermass Fairey liquid is out to get me . . . !!!