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Exposure Compensation (1 Viewer)

geordie graham

Well-known member
I am still very new to photography and after getting to grips with general bird photography I am now trying to get to grips with E V compensation.I have a Pentax K10D which has a digital preview which can show the histogram of the shot once it is focused etc.Am I right in thinking that by checking the histogram and dialing in +/- compensation depending on the position of the peaks and getting the peaks more or less central,then I should have the exposure more or less correct.Also is it best to use 1/2 or 1/3 increments.I have noticed some people have +/- compensation permanently dialled in,does anybody do this with their K10D.Thanks

Graham
 
What you describe might be useful in an ideal situation, but by the time you get done doing all that your bird will have flown, or at least moved into different light, and you'll miss your photo. Most of the histogram will describe areas of the image that aren't your bird anyway - background and foreground foliage, water and sky that dominate the image.

When I'm out with the camera I just estimate an EV setting from experience, and use exposure bracketing. After a few frames I check the result and adjust EV a bit. Etc, etc, etc.

One thing you could try is pick some spots that represent areas you're likely to take a photo towards, and check the histogram for those areas before the birds arrive. Then dial in the approximate compensation you estimated for those areas when the moment arrives.
 
The histogram is a good tool for evaluating your photo and readjust as nescessary for the next photo .

Your question has nothing to do with which camera you use - it's all about understanding photography and exposure.
Putting the histogram in the middle is not always the best result . It's optimal .
When shooting a white bird - eg - Egret - If you meter exposure only from the bird - it should be something like +1.5 EV . On the other hand - if you shoot a black crow - metering the crow should read -1.5 approximately .
When metering the whole sorrounding ( all the frame ) - then getting the histogram in the middle will keep you in a "safe " zone. You can then dial in exposure as neede for the specific bird.
I prefer my histograms to the right . ( not always possible...) .
bkrownd is right . Estimate exposure and the adjust as nescessary .
 
As already mentioned its a bit of a lot of things, experience being one, I always spot meter off the subject I am taking a shot of which normally works well (or bracket), flight shots are tricky as you want the subject in the centre if spot metering or centre weighted is to work. Usually I will dial in one or 2 stops over or under depending on the light, the background and the subject for moving / panning shots. Whilst I might be sticking my neck out, shoot in RAW so you are able to stand a better chance of recovering a good shot which may be a tad under or over exposed and before I get lambasted theres nothing better than getting right 1st time........
 
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