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Borneo : Trails & tribulations (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter halftwo
- Start date
halftwo
Wird Batcher
OK, no logistics - save a few tips to pass on, just some anecdotal birding stuff.
SABAH Feb 22nd - March 11th.
Two days PORING
Two days SEPILOK
Two days KINABATANGAN
Four days DANUM
One day Near the RAFFLESIA CENTRE.
Four days KINABALU
One day TAMBUNAM ISLAND
Hire car from KK for the duration - though not used whilst at Danum.
All went very swimmingly despite the complex itinerary and multi-site trip undertaken alone.
Having arrived in the dark & getting to Sonny Villa near the Kinabalu Park entrance very late the evening before, I was up & out to views of Mount Kinabalu from my room at first light.
Before & during breakfast I got two ticks - both missed out on a previous Borneo visit some 5 or 6 years since. The first being Chestnut-capped yuhina. How I missed these birds last time I cannot fathom: they were cospicuous everywhere I went!
Next: my first endem.: Black-sided flowerpecker. And, in fact this sight was the one & only for this species - so it was good to get while I ate my breakfast that first day!
PORING: (Tip: the gates to this tourist spot open at seven.) Two main "trails": the waterfall trail - just a few kms long, and the aerial walkway trail. (More of which in the next episode.)
This first day was to set the tone for the whole trip: Sabah (indeed the whole of Malaysia) was experiencing unusual drought conditions which meant that I experienced the quietest rainforest birding ever - almost nothing was singing, very few birds were calling, and as a result sightings were difficult to come by.
Main target here was the Hose's Broadbill. Other ticks available included a Pitta or two & Cinnamon-rumped trogon, etc.
Up along the waterfall trail. VERY quiet. On the way back I found a huge fruiting fig - fruits in various states of ripeness. I decided to stake it out for an hour or so. Indeed I've no doubt that this particular tree has featured in more than one trip report I've read, and has regular visits from Hose's & Green broadbills (to name just two) as well as a host of other goodies.
Now, those of you familiar to tropical birding will know the usefullness of a good fruiting tree: it's a magnet for not only the frugivorous avian, but for many others species - as fruit attracts insects too.
But this tree was to remain largely empty for the time I spent watching it - and, as this was my first day so I sat & puzzled at this lack of activity.
One benefit of the drought meant that leeches were few & far between - and on this first day I encountered just three - more were to come, but they were never in abundance anywhere I went - and some sites were supposedly notorious for these persistant, pesky and pernicious little pests.
SABAH Feb 22nd - March 11th.
Two days PORING
Two days SEPILOK
Two days KINABATANGAN
Four days DANUM
One day Near the RAFFLESIA CENTRE.
Four days KINABALU
One day TAMBUNAM ISLAND
Hire car from KK for the duration - though not used whilst at Danum.
All went very swimmingly despite the complex itinerary and multi-site trip undertaken alone.
Having arrived in the dark & getting to Sonny Villa near the Kinabalu Park entrance very late the evening before, I was up & out to views of Mount Kinabalu from my room at first light.
Before & during breakfast I got two ticks - both missed out on a previous Borneo visit some 5 or 6 years since. The first being Chestnut-capped yuhina. How I missed these birds last time I cannot fathom: they were cospicuous everywhere I went!
Next: my first endem.: Black-sided flowerpecker. And, in fact this sight was the one & only for this species - so it was good to get while I ate my breakfast that first day!
PORING: (Tip: the gates to this tourist spot open at seven.) Two main "trails": the waterfall trail - just a few kms long, and the aerial walkway trail. (More of which in the next episode.)
This first day was to set the tone for the whole trip: Sabah (indeed the whole of Malaysia) was experiencing unusual drought conditions which meant that I experienced the quietest rainforest birding ever - almost nothing was singing, very few birds were calling, and as a result sightings were difficult to come by.
Main target here was the Hose's Broadbill. Other ticks available included a Pitta or two & Cinnamon-rumped trogon, etc.
Up along the waterfall trail. VERY quiet. On the way back I found a huge fruiting fig - fruits in various states of ripeness. I decided to stake it out for an hour or so. Indeed I've no doubt that this particular tree has featured in more than one trip report I've read, and has regular visits from Hose's & Green broadbills (to name just two) as well as a host of other goodies.
Now, those of you familiar to tropical birding will know the usefullness of a good fruiting tree: it's a magnet for not only the frugivorous avian, but for many others species - as fruit attracts insects too.
But this tree was to remain largely empty for the time I spent watching it - and, as this was my first day so I sat & puzzled at this lack of activity.
One benefit of the drought meant that leeches were few & far between - and on this first day I encountered just three - more were to come, but they were never in abundance anywhere I went - and some sites were supposedly notorious for these persistant, pesky and pernicious little pests.
RobertaG
Well-known member
Looking forward to reading how you got on, was in Sabah just before you and we had unusual amounts of rain! Particularly at Mt Kinabalu and Kinabatangan, and leeches were certainly in evidence, especially the big tiger leeches in the Danum valley! However despite the rain (or because of it?) the birding at Kinabalu was hard going - dipped on the Whitehead trio (but didn't go to Poring, so the Broadbill would have been a longshot anyway)
The drought was very much in evidence on the peninsula though - saw no leeches at all at Fraser's Hill or Taman Negara - and finding those all important fruiting trees was very difficult.
Still had a great trip though, with a trip list of nearly 300 species (and many many lifers!) and the unusual conditions and missed species just create a good reason to return in a couple years' time!
Roberta
The drought was very much in evidence on the peninsula though - saw no leeches at all at Fraser's Hill or Taman Negara - and finding those all important fruiting trees was very difficult.
Still had a great trip though, with a trip list of nearly 300 species (and many many lifers!) and the unusual conditions and missed species just create a good reason to return in a couple years' time!
Roberta
schiffornis
AWBirder
looking forward to hearing how you got on H.
Larry Sweetland
Formerly 'Larry Wheatland'
Me too
halftwo
Wird Batcher
Thanks, guys, here's some more...
Having given up on the tree I made my way down the trail. Once or twice birds were in evidence, and two were new for me. But first a Blue & white flycatcher female.
White-crowned shamas flashed their good looks and bulbuls & babblers - including Fluffy-backed & Temminck's showed. But heard isn't seen - and next a great miss - sound & very brief sight of Green broadbills disappearing before tickable views could be had - and this wasn't going to be my last of them.
However much consolation came in the form of a pair of Maroon-breasted philentomas, showing well for a while amongst a few extras in the cast. A bird of, to me at least, some legendry status: great stuff. And hard on their heals a pair of Grey and buff woodpeckers: another tick for me.
Raffle's malkohas and Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike and Yellow-rumped flowerpecker showed - the last another tick - the day was improving! Maroon woodies next, and the first of many Mugimaki flycatchers. Scaly-breasted bulbul - perhaps the best looking bulbul - Chestnut-breasted malkoha amongst a few other goodies.
Back down at the suphury springs themselves the evening brought out Silver-rumped needletails and a Sibe blue robin to end the day.
I had a rough target of 50 ticks out of a list of more than twice that. The first day was about right to keep on track for reaching that. But I was to struggle in the days to come.
Having given up on the tree I made my way down the trail. Once or twice birds were in evidence, and two were new for me. But first a Blue & white flycatcher female.
White-crowned shamas flashed their good looks and bulbuls & babblers - including Fluffy-backed & Temminck's showed. But heard isn't seen - and next a great miss - sound & very brief sight of Green broadbills disappearing before tickable views could be had - and this wasn't going to be my last of them.
However much consolation came in the form of a pair of Maroon-breasted philentomas, showing well for a while amongst a few extras in the cast. A bird of, to me at least, some legendry status: great stuff. And hard on their heals a pair of Grey and buff woodpeckers: another tick for me.
Raffle's malkohas and Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike and Yellow-rumped flowerpecker showed - the last another tick - the day was improving! Maroon woodies next, and the first of many Mugimaki flycatchers. Scaly-breasted bulbul - perhaps the best looking bulbul - Chestnut-breasted malkoha amongst a few other goodies.
Back down at the suphury springs themselves the evening brought out Silver-rumped needletails and a Sibe blue robin to end the day.
I had a rough target of 50 ticks out of a list of more than twice that. The first day was about right to keep on track for reaching that. But I was to struggle in the days to come.
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Looking forward to your trip report !
Poring : the gates don't officially open until 07.00 but you can still just walk in (and pay on the way out), this is what we did. The large trees in amongst the pools have a lot of small bird activity in the first hour of light.
Leeches : surprised you had them at Poring, I've not seen them there before despite crawling through the undergrowth etc. Now Kinabatangan is quite another matter .... !! Interestingly the guides at Kina told us that leeches don't come out at night so night walks are good
Though guess the snakes are more active
Poring : the gates don't officially open until 07.00 but you can still just walk in (and pay on the way out), this is what we did. The large trees in amongst the pools have a lot of small bird activity in the first hour of light.
Leeches : surprised you had them at Poring, I've not seen them there before despite crawling through the undergrowth etc. Now Kinabatangan is quite another matter .... !! Interestingly the guides at Kina told us that leeches don't come out at night so night walks are good
Though guess the snakes are more active
halftwo
Wird Batcher
Day 2: PORING
I overslept! So, as breakfast was being served I had a quick bite & off to Poring again.
A few things - Spectacled spiderhunter, Orange-bellied flowerpecker, Narcissus flycatcher & Brown fulvettas kept me going - and then a pair of large flycatchers joined this little wave: brief but good views of White-tailed flycatchers was my first tick of the day.
The aerial walkway is to be avoided - but I had gen that the Hose's were easiest from a perhaps disused trail behind. (For those going soon there is currently a hole in the fence through which you can sneak if the entrance isn't open.)
Up beyond the walkway entrance the closed trail began - I went up it's steep steps, only to be told to come down by the official - but I had Hose's to find & kept on - the porky Parky giving up the struggle after a few further metres.
A bird was singing nearby & I tried my tape out - and to my astonishment a male Cinnamon-rumped trogon flew in to greet me & sing as he showed! Fantastic!
White-bellied yuhina & Raffles malkohas came by. Then a Hooded pitta called from just feet away - so close that I couldn't figure out the direction - the sound seemed to come from inside my head!
A frantic search turned up nothing as the heavens opened. The pitta went away! The leeches came out to feed on my feet.
After some time dipping on any broadbill in the vicinity I gave up the struggle & left to continue the journey to my next destination.
At the hot springs a fruiting tree was full of bulbuls & a Buff-necked woodpecker briefly put in an appearance.
But that was the end of Poring & SEPILOK was to be the next port-of-call.
That journey was under 3 hours by road - the roads are, shall we say, of mixed quality - from good to very very poor indeed.
There is a lot of unexplored forest between Poring & Sepilok - the palm oil plantations only taking over a few miles before Sepilok.
I arrived in plenty of time to check in, shower etc., before dusk - a pair of Black hornbills flying over the accommodation (Forest Edge Resort) before dark.
I overslept! So, as breakfast was being served I had a quick bite & off to Poring again.
A few things - Spectacled spiderhunter, Orange-bellied flowerpecker, Narcissus flycatcher & Brown fulvettas kept me going - and then a pair of large flycatchers joined this little wave: brief but good views of White-tailed flycatchers was my first tick of the day.
The aerial walkway is to be avoided - but I had gen that the Hose's were easiest from a perhaps disused trail behind. (For those going soon there is currently a hole in the fence through which you can sneak if the entrance isn't open.)
Up beyond the walkway entrance the closed trail began - I went up it's steep steps, only to be told to come down by the official - but I had Hose's to find & kept on - the porky Parky giving up the struggle after a few further metres.
A bird was singing nearby & I tried my tape out - and to my astonishment a male Cinnamon-rumped trogon flew in to greet me & sing as he showed! Fantastic!
White-bellied yuhina & Raffles malkohas came by. Then a Hooded pitta called from just feet away - so close that I couldn't figure out the direction - the sound seemed to come from inside my head!
A frantic search turned up nothing as the heavens opened. The pitta went away! The leeches came out to feed on my feet.
After some time dipping on any broadbill in the vicinity I gave up the struggle & left to continue the journey to my next destination.
At the hot springs a fruiting tree was full of bulbuls & a Buff-necked woodpecker briefly put in an appearance.
But that was the end of Poring & SEPILOK was to be the next port-of-call.
That journey was under 3 hours by road - the roads are, shall we say, of mixed quality - from good to very very poor indeed.
There is a lot of unexplored forest between Poring & Sepilok - the palm oil plantations only taking over a few miles before Sepilok.
I arrived in plenty of time to check in, shower etc., before dusk - a pair of Black hornbills flying over the accommodation (Forest Edge Resort) before dark.
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halftwo
Wird Batcher
Day Three: SEPILOK
At 3am a Sunda scops owl woke me - calling from just a few yards outside my room.
I donned my head torch & went out to search, along with digital recorder.
After an hour the owl had retreated further into cover without a glimpse. It carried on calling for some time. I went back to sleep, only to be woken an hour later by a Brown boobook calling once.
The dawn was birdy: Blue-crowned hanging parrots, Long-tailed parakeets, Pink-necked green pigeons, etc, etc. Then a Little green pigeon came in: first tick of the day.
A woody flew past - Checker-throated or Crimson-winged. Time for breakfast.
At the Rainforest Discovery Centre Slender-billed crows were noisy from the Bristlehead Tower. Bristleheads were to remain hidden then & at every other visit. Van Hasselt's sunbirds showed however - a bird that, somehow, I'd not previously seen.
Out along the trails a Ruddy kingfisher gave a frustratingly, just tickable view as it zapped away. Wallace's hawk-eagle gave the first of many views. A Short-toed coucal was a surprise - a good brief view.
Back on the walkway a Black & yellow broadbill showed itself off just below me: the first broadbill of the trip. At the same place a little while later a juvenile Orang Utan came very close: a rehabilitated individual?
Four Bushy-crested hornbills & a Sunda pygmy woody showed up - the hornbills coming to a nearby fruiting tree. A Scarlet sunbird displayed in the sushine as Green broadbills sang out across the way. Once again they just wouldn't show - despite my trek to try to get close. I did get close - then they disappeared.
Back on the trails a Black-headed pitta called. An Arctic warbler was one of the few birds that did show, but so too was a Fulvous-chested jungle-flycatcher: an obliging bird & a tick.
Rhinocerus & Black hornbills shared a tree noisily. Three Rufous-winged philentomas passed through. But these were virtually the entire cast in a very quiet day.
The next day at dawn at the RDC (you can walk in any time - and even the lockable walkway & tower were open before seven.) I walked the trails for three hours and saw just three birds.
Not a Pitta called, let alone made for a sighting. So it was with a real pang of jealousy that a photographer showed me a Hooded pitta in his camera viewer. However the said bird was available at a nearby lodge - the one with the Banana Cafe. I hurried round.
One of the resident birders showed me to the nest site - and there were three young Hooded pittas neatly nestled in a ground-level nest.
A few momoments later I had cracking views of one of the adult birds hopping around in the open collecting food for its offspring. Fantastic!! Pitta number One. I watched, grinning, for some time. While there a Black & red broadbill came along to add to the show.
Back at my own lodge a Rufous-bellied eagle glided past. A Black-winged flycatcher shrike ending the avian day.
It was time to move on: Kinabatangan awaited. It was just a two hour drive to the jetty where Robert Chong's man picked me up in the boat & sped me to the Kinbatangan Jungle Camp.
(Tip: if you are self-driving Robert's map show's the turn off to Bilit AT Kota Kinabantangan. It ISN'T. Go past for ten km. and you will see the well-posted sign for Bilit & Gamantong Cave.)
A large Saltwater Croc basked as we whizzed past. Robert met me at the camp. I settled in & took a stroll in the adjacent, mosquito-infested jungle. Chestnut-necklaced partridges called and a mother & baby Orang gave a great view not far away in the top of a small tree.
I returned to camp for the first of the river tours in Robert's boat.
At 3am a Sunda scops owl woke me - calling from just a few yards outside my room.
I donned my head torch & went out to search, along with digital recorder.
After an hour the owl had retreated further into cover without a glimpse. It carried on calling for some time. I went back to sleep, only to be woken an hour later by a Brown boobook calling once.
The dawn was birdy: Blue-crowned hanging parrots, Long-tailed parakeets, Pink-necked green pigeons, etc, etc. Then a Little green pigeon came in: first tick of the day.
A woody flew past - Checker-throated or Crimson-winged. Time for breakfast.
At the Rainforest Discovery Centre Slender-billed crows were noisy from the Bristlehead Tower. Bristleheads were to remain hidden then & at every other visit. Van Hasselt's sunbirds showed however - a bird that, somehow, I'd not previously seen.
Out along the trails a Ruddy kingfisher gave a frustratingly, just tickable view as it zapped away. Wallace's hawk-eagle gave the first of many views. A Short-toed coucal was a surprise - a good brief view.
Back on the walkway a Black & yellow broadbill showed itself off just below me: the first broadbill of the trip. At the same place a little while later a juvenile Orang Utan came very close: a rehabilitated individual?
Four Bushy-crested hornbills & a Sunda pygmy woody showed up - the hornbills coming to a nearby fruiting tree. A Scarlet sunbird displayed in the sushine as Green broadbills sang out across the way. Once again they just wouldn't show - despite my trek to try to get close. I did get close - then they disappeared.
Back on the trails a Black-headed pitta called. An Arctic warbler was one of the few birds that did show, but so too was a Fulvous-chested jungle-flycatcher: an obliging bird & a tick.
Rhinocerus & Black hornbills shared a tree noisily. Three Rufous-winged philentomas passed through. But these were virtually the entire cast in a very quiet day.
The next day at dawn at the RDC (you can walk in any time - and even the lockable walkway & tower were open before seven.) I walked the trails for three hours and saw just three birds.
Not a Pitta called, let alone made for a sighting. So it was with a real pang of jealousy that a photographer showed me a Hooded pitta in his camera viewer. However the said bird was available at a nearby lodge - the one with the Banana Cafe. I hurried round.
One of the resident birders showed me to the nest site - and there were three young Hooded pittas neatly nestled in a ground-level nest.
A few momoments later I had cracking views of one of the adult birds hopping around in the open collecting food for its offspring. Fantastic!! Pitta number One. I watched, grinning, for some time. While there a Black & red broadbill came along to add to the show.
Back at my own lodge a Rufous-bellied eagle glided past. A Black-winged flycatcher shrike ending the avian day.
It was time to move on: Kinabatangan awaited. It was just a two hour drive to the jetty where Robert Chong's man picked me up in the boat & sped me to the Kinbatangan Jungle Camp.
(Tip: if you are self-driving Robert's map show's the turn off to Bilit AT Kota Kinabantangan. It ISN'T. Go past for ten km. and you will see the well-posted sign for Bilit & Gamantong Cave.)
A large Saltwater Croc basked as we whizzed past. Robert met me at the camp. I settled in & took a stroll in the adjacent, mosquito-infested jungle. Chestnut-necklaced partridges called and a mother & baby Orang gave a great view not far away in the top of a small tree.
I returned to camp for the first of the river tours in Robert's boat.
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halftwo
Wird Batcher
Robert not only knows all the calls - he can do most of the calls. But his efforts were largely unrewarded.
But soon a cuckoo showed itself so well that we were able to identify it after good prolongued views: Himalayan Cuckoo.
Hornbills flew over the river - this place has all the natives - we saw Bushy-crested, Oriental pied and Rhinocerus. The first of many Storm's storks sailed past. Many Purple herons and a Lesser adjutant added to the movement along the river. Blue-eared & Stork-billed kingfishers, Little green & Green Imperial pigeons came in to roost and, as dusk took hold the first Buffy fish-owl flew across our path.
That evening from the camp both Malayan palm civet and Lesser mouse deer put in a visit to the grounds.
A night safari with searchlights found more Buffy fish-owls & a small herd of Bornean Pygmy Elephants!
Day Five: All morning along the river. Black-backed kingfishers: a few quick flight views as they flashed by. Then one perched up. Next a calling Ruddy kingfisher had us searching & finding it to get great views.
Jerdon's baza perched up nicely for us. Wallace's hawk-eagle & White-bellied sea-eagles Storm's storks & Lesser adjutant, Buffy fish owls roosting, and a Lesser fish eagle flew over - an unexpected addition - though not a tick. Another surprise was a good view of a Chestnut-winged cuckoo - just one amongst several cuckoos that we actually identified. One other was a pair of Violet cuckoos on fly past.
Then a pair of Wrinkled hornbills added to the tally - lovely birds. Better was to come with the briefest of views of White-crowned hornbills across the creek. A Black & yellow broadbill hid itself away - just showing by the river.
Bornean black magpies called nearby - but refused to respond to Robert's imitations. Malaysian blue flycatchers perched low against the waterside trees.
A huge troop of Pig-tailed macaques crossed on an artificial bridge - maybe 70 individuals.
A Brown barbet showed up and remained for a few minutes - another tick to add to the hornbills.
Back at camp Ferruginous & Chestnut-winged babblers & a Rufous piculet. A probable Brown wood owl flew off as I approached - but I couldn't relocate it. Bearded pigs & Provost's squirrels added to the mammal count.
Back on the river several birds showed - but no ticks. Another Himalayan cuckoo (female) showed well enough to id. Common palm civet was found by searchlight later.
Most frustratingly the intensive & extensive search for Bay owl turned up a calling bird right by the river which just refused to show itself, despite its proximity.
March 1st: Dipping again. Robert's unstinting efforts to call out a Ground Cuckoo went in vain. Even the singing Striped wren babbler wouldn't play. Grey & buff woodies did show, as did the Grey-headed fish eagle - perched & in flight at close quarters giving some consolation: for this Fish-eagle I did need.
On my way to Danum I called quickly at Gomantong Cave in the hope of seeing roosting Bat Hawk. Another blank there! But, as I drove the approach road a trogon happened past & I stopped to watch a superb male Diard's trogon just a few metres into the forest!
But soon a cuckoo showed itself so well that we were able to identify it after good prolongued views: Himalayan Cuckoo.
Hornbills flew over the river - this place has all the natives - we saw Bushy-crested, Oriental pied and Rhinocerus. The first of many Storm's storks sailed past. Many Purple herons and a Lesser adjutant added to the movement along the river. Blue-eared & Stork-billed kingfishers, Little green & Green Imperial pigeons came in to roost and, as dusk took hold the first Buffy fish-owl flew across our path.
That evening from the camp both Malayan palm civet and Lesser mouse deer put in a visit to the grounds.
A night safari with searchlights found more Buffy fish-owls & a small herd of Bornean Pygmy Elephants!
Day Five: All morning along the river. Black-backed kingfishers: a few quick flight views as they flashed by. Then one perched up. Next a calling Ruddy kingfisher had us searching & finding it to get great views.
Jerdon's baza perched up nicely for us. Wallace's hawk-eagle & White-bellied sea-eagles Storm's storks & Lesser adjutant, Buffy fish owls roosting, and a Lesser fish eagle flew over - an unexpected addition - though not a tick. Another surprise was a good view of a Chestnut-winged cuckoo - just one amongst several cuckoos that we actually identified. One other was a pair of Violet cuckoos on fly past.
Then a pair of Wrinkled hornbills added to the tally - lovely birds. Better was to come with the briefest of views of White-crowned hornbills across the creek. A Black & yellow broadbill hid itself away - just showing by the river.
Bornean black magpies called nearby - but refused to respond to Robert's imitations. Malaysian blue flycatchers perched low against the waterside trees.
A huge troop of Pig-tailed macaques crossed on an artificial bridge - maybe 70 individuals.
A Brown barbet showed up and remained for a few minutes - another tick to add to the hornbills.
Back at camp Ferruginous & Chestnut-winged babblers & a Rufous piculet. A probable Brown wood owl flew off as I approached - but I couldn't relocate it. Bearded pigs & Provost's squirrels added to the mammal count.
Back on the river several birds showed - but no ticks. Another Himalayan cuckoo (female) showed well enough to id. Common palm civet was found by searchlight later.
Most frustratingly the intensive & extensive search for Bay owl turned up a calling bird right by the river which just refused to show itself, despite its proximity.
March 1st: Dipping again. Robert's unstinting efforts to call out a Ground Cuckoo went in vain. Even the singing Striped wren babbler wouldn't play. Grey & buff woodies did show, as did the Grey-headed fish eagle - perched & in flight at close quarters giving some consolation: for this Fish-eagle I did need.
On my way to Danum I called quickly at Gomantong Cave in the hope of seeing roosting Bat Hawk. Another blank there! But, as I drove the approach road a trogon happened past & I stopped to watch a superb male Diard's trogon just a few metres into the forest!
Larry Sweetland
Formerly 'Larry Wheatland'
Envious of your swathe of Wallaces Hawk-Eagles H. I kept getting utvs of small-looking hawk-eagles at Sepilok (and elsewhere), that I figured were Wallace's, but they just wouldn't let me see them well enough!
halftwo
Wird Batcher
Sorry Larry - I must have seen ten individuals by hols' end - three together at Sepilok, calling loudly & locking talons for minutes on end!
halftwo
Wird Batcher
And so to DANUM. The legendary, almost mythical, end-of-the-earth, remote, dark & leech-infested pristine forest in deepest, darkest Borneo.
I'll pass over the glitch, of my own making, re permit access and transportation. Suffice to say, that after a short delay, whilst chatting to the wonderful Borneo Rainforest Lodge people in their plush and well-appointed office adjacent to the closed Danum Valley Forest Centre Office, I was on my way to Danum.
It was late afternoon and Pygmy elephants were aplenty by the roadside - offering extremely close views and photo opportunities.
At the centre reception a surprise - I was to be sharing the place with, amongst few others, Sir David Attenborough and a huge film crew!
I'll pass over the glitch, of my own making, re permit access and transportation. Suffice to say, that after a short delay, whilst chatting to the wonderful Borneo Rainforest Lodge people in their plush and well-appointed office adjacent to the closed Danum Valley Forest Centre Office, I was on my way to Danum.
It was late afternoon and Pygmy elephants were aplenty by the roadside - offering extremely close views and photo opportunities.
At the centre reception a surprise - I was to be sharing the place with, amongst few others, Sir David Attenborough and a huge film crew!
Farnboro John
Well-known member
I think you mean a surprise for Sir David - he was to be sharing the place with BF's legendary halftwo!
I hope he appreciated the privilege.
John
I hope he appreciated the privilege.
John
halftwo
Wird Batcher
Ha ha! Thanks John. I think he was in shock to see me!
Having met Sir David & shared a dining table with him & his remarkable crew of c.60 the previous evening - a very interesting night - the next day dawned and I was out before that & up the waterfall trail. As others have said: there are almost no trails you are actually allowed along at the DVFC without escort &/or permission, but no one enforces that, and I saw no one whilst using every trail I could find.
Before long, though quiet, as usual, Black-capped babblers and a female Scarlet-rumped trogon had been seen. But the highlight of the trip was about to happen.
Up and up along the quiet trail - where were all the birds? - when a movement low & left caught the eye.
A male BLUE-HEADED PITTA hopped out across the path, paused and hopped right back into light cover! What a beauty. What a fantastic view! As you can see I've changed my avatar in awe of the thing.
I floated on up towards the waterfall - and the very next bird was a female Blue-headed pitta - typically in deeper cover - and a briefer, poorer view. White-crowned forktail flew away as I reached the waterfall. I lingered for a while in a splash of sunlight, then started back.
A pitta called - one of three that sound similar - Black-headed, Blue-banded or even the legendary Giant. It wouldn't come closer. After a few frustrating minutes the song stopped.
Bornean blue flycatcher was my next tick - a showy male flicking low through the trees close by, and singing. Hard on it's heals yet another tick - and another flycatcher - an even more gorgeous male Rufous-chested flycatcher! Again low and showy in the shadows.
Further down a bird flew across my path and disappeared into cover - but I manouvered a glimpse through the undergrowth - a female Rufous-tailed shama was cocking her tail over her back. A few moments and she was gone. A Mouse deer scampered away as I set off again.
Emerging into sunlight by the centre a Black eagle was just taking off with its snake prey. Black hornbills flew across the valley, and an Oriental honey buzzard - the local sub-species & possible future split - circled in the warming day.
Back along another trail a variety of babblers and assorted other delights - including an Olive-backed woody and a bird I, at first, could not identify. An all blue flycatcher type - no other colour except a hint of brown on the primaries - not even a pale belly. It took me some time to figure out this blue-phase Rufous-winged philentoma.
Evening at the suspension bridge brought out Whiskered treeswifts - giving cracking views perched & in flight. Red leaf-monkeys - Orang-coloured apes - swung through the trees.
So far, so good.
Having met Sir David & shared a dining table with him & his remarkable crew of c.60 the previous evening - a very interesting night - the next day dawned and I was out before that & up the waterfall trail. As others have said: there are almost no trails you are actually allowed along at the DVFC without escort &/or permission, but no one enforces that, and I saw no one whilst using every trail I could find.
Before long, though quiet, as usual, Black-capped babblers and a female Scarlet-rumped trogon had been seen. But the highlight of the trip was about to happen.
Up and up along the quiet trail - where were all the birds? - when a movement low & left caught the eye.
A male BLUE-HEADED PITTA hopped out across the path, paused and hopped right back into light cover! What a beauty. What a fantastic view! As you can see I've changed my avatar in awe of the thing.
I floated on up towards the waterfall - and the very next bird was a female Blue-headed pitta - typically in deeper cover - and a briefer, poorer view. White-crowned forktail flew away as I reached the waterfall. I lingered for a while in a splash of sunlight, then started back.
A pitta called - one of three that sound similar - Black-headed, Blue-banded or even the legendary Giant. It wouldn't come closer. After a few frustrating minutes the song stopped.
Bornean blue flycatcher was my next tick - a showy male flicking low through the trees close by, and singing. Hard on it's heals yet another tick - and another flycatcher - an even more gorgeous male Rufous-chested flycatcher! Again low and showy in the shadows.
Further down a bird flew across my path and disappeared into cover - but I manouvered a glimpse through the undergrowth - a female Rufous-tailed shama was cocking her tail over her back. A few moments and she was gone. A Mouse deer scampered away as I set off again.
Emerging into sunlight by the centre a Black eagle was just taking off with its snake prey. Black hornbills flew across the valley, and an Oriental honey buzzard - the local sub-species & possible future split - circled in the warming day.
Back along another trail a variety of babblers and assorted other delights - including an Olive-backed woody and a bird I, at first, could not identify. An all blue flycatcher type - no other colour except a hint of brown on the primaries - not even a pale belly. It took me some time to figure out this blue-phase Rufous-winged philentoma.
Evening at the suspension bridge brought out Whiskered treeswifts - giving cracking views perched & in flight. Red leaf-monkeys - Orang-coloured apes - swung through the trees.
So far, so good.
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halftwo
Wird Batcher
By the breakfast deck the next day a male Sibe blue robin hopped around at the forest edge. A quick cuppa and I was out along the Coffin Trail.
Soon a singing Black-headed pitta, deep in cover but very close by, had my undivided attention. For ages I imitated its single note & tried in vain to catch a glimpse. I couldn't tell if the songster was on the ground or in the tree. I eventually, in a repeat performance of my Garnet pitta manouvre (back in Taman Negara last year), edged along a fallen tree and then along another at right angles to the first. The Pitta continued to call - had it moved in the meantime?
Suddenly a tiny glimpse in deepest shadow beyond the thick undergrowth: a dark form hopped into a sliver of sunlight and irridescent colours exploded into sight: BLACK-HEADED PITTA - the male had finally given himself up and hopped in & out of sunny patches and glowed! I knew this was a lucky break - others have repeatedly dipped in similar circumstances. Pitta number three!
Back along the road by the reception office a group of noisy Bornean black magpies were moving about in the roadside trees. I got some excellent views of this group - glad of a second chance at these endems. But things were about to get better. Much better.
Across the road a movement. Into the middle storey a bird flew in and perched in full view. BORNEAN BRISTLEHEAD. And another. And another! Three birds hunted in view by the roadside for several minutes - within yards of a grinning me! Two superb ticks together.
Back into shade and the Waterfall trail again. First up and another new bird: a pair of Striped wren-babblers showed well, calling a protest at my presence. A male Scarlet-rumped trogon sang as he hunted nearby. A few minutes on and a Banded kingfisher - a female - landed close by for an inspection.
On up again and a male Great argus strolled across the path just yards ahead! This was my first male - having seen only females before. He continued to cross for an age - taking his huge tail for a stroll. A Red & black broadbill was amongst other delights of that morning.
The afternoon was an anti-climax, and was extremely quiet. Short-tailed babblers one of very few birds showing.
That evening everyone went out on 'night safari' - too many vehicles & too much disturbance meant little was seen. A pair of Brown boobooks and flying squirrels about the only animals seen. But tomorrow was another day: and it turned out to be another good day.
Soon a singing Black-headed pitta, deep in cover but very close by, had my undivided attention. For ages I imitated its single note & tried in vain to catch a glimpse. I couldn't tell if the songster was on the ground or in the tree. I eventually, in a repeat performance of my Garnet pitta manouvre (back in Taman Negara last year), edged along a fallen tree and then along another at right angles to the first. The Pitta continued to call - had it moved in the meantime?
Suddenly a tiny glimpse in deepest shadow beyond the thick undergrowth: a dark form hopped into a sliver of sunlight and irridescent colours exploded into sight: BLACK-HEADED PITTA - the male had finally given himself up and hopped in & out of sunny patches and glowed! I knew this was a lucky break - others have repeatedly dipped in similar circumstances. Pitta number three!
Back along the road by the reception office a group of noisy Bornean black magpies were moving about in the roadside trees. I got some excellent views of this group - glad of a second chance at these endems. But things were about to get better. Much better.
Across the road a movement. Into the middle storey a bird flew in and perched in full view. BORNEAN BRISTLEHEAD. And another. And another! Three birds hunted in view by the roadside for several minutes - within yards of a grinning me! Two superb ticks together.
Back into shade and the Waterfall trail again. First up and another new bird: a pair of Striped wren-babblers showed well, calling a protest at my presence. A male Scarlet-rumped trogon sang as he hunted nearby. A few minutes on and a Banded kingfisher - a female - landed close by for an inspection.
On up again and a male Great argus strolled across the path just yards ahead! This was my first male - having seen only females before. He continued to cross for an age - taking his huge tail for a stroll. A Red & black broadbill was amongst other delights of that morning.
The afternoon was an anti-climax, and was extremely quiet. Short-tailed babblers one of very few birds showing.
That evening everyone went out on 'night safari' - too many vehicles & too much disturbance meant little was seen. A pair of Brown boobooks and flying squirrels about the only animals seen. But tomorrow was another day: and it turned out to be another good day.
halftwo
Wird Batcher
Soooo gripped with your Pittas ! Two tours of Sabah have so far only yielded Hooded Pitta and no Bristleheads
Sorry, Frogfish, but more to come!
Six am the next morning & I crossed the lovely suspension bridge & headed straight up the 'W' Trail. (W for west). A few things were calling & singing, mostly hidden. Babblers obliged every now & then: Moustached & Ferruginous adding to the trip list.
Right to the top until the trail petered out, and started back down.
Approaching a 'crossroad' a movement to my left again: another Blue-headed pitta male bobbing along the forest floor, unconcerned at my presence he continued across the path and into the jungle beyond, still clearly visible in the sparse undergrowth.
Then his mate joined him & both hopped around for a few minutes until disappearing! A cracker of a start. At a stream a Black-backed kingfisher perched obligingly for a short while. I turned left up another promising trail from where a strange noise emanated. I knew what it was, and it was a tick.
However Honeyguides are a lot easier to hear than to see! This one was in full glorious & curious voice at the very top of a tall tree. To see the crown I had to stand underneath & look directly up. A pain in the neck; and I still couldn't see the bird.
Minutes passed. The song continued. My back protested. Then the songster changed perches - and not too far from the first - I had seen it move & now could get a view - albeit of the underside only.
A short time later another songster sang from a huge tree, but this time it wasn't going to show: Chestnut-capped thrush. Though I waited for a glimpse it just wasn't to be & I left with its song still in my ears.
An immature male Red-naped trogon replaced the song a little later - this bird still had a female-type throat colour. Orange-backed woodies & Chestnut-bellied malkohas shared tree space next.
Then down at the next stream a pair of Chestnut-naped forktails showed off for a while. Though the morning had produced just one new bird for me I wasn't complaining at the day so far.
I decided on a lunch break - a little unusual for me - and had a Grey-headed fish eagle pass along the river as I ate. Then it was back along the Coffin trail to see what I could see.
Things were quiet again post-noon, though Black-headed pittas were singing at intervals along the way. A prolongued stare into undergrowth rewarded me with another brief ground & flight view of this little jewel.
Another male Great argus crossed unconcerned as I made my way along the trail right at the end. I began the return. The forest here didn't look overly promising, but you never know what might turn up. And turn up it did.
A movement ahead. Whatever it was was not far away, in front of a buttress root, so, though hidden had to come into view no matter what. A pitta made its entrance!
I was watching, ostensibly a Blue-winged pitta, drinking it in from not far off when a thought occurred: this bird had chestnut crown sides! Didn't that possibly make it something other?! It hopped closer and stood still for so long that my arms ached as I took it all in, its crimson undercarriage, its blue wings, its head markings. Eventually it vanished and I reached hungrily for my field guide.
My suspicions were confirmed.
FAIRY PITTA !!!
I'd found a FAIRY PITTA! A rare thing for SE Asia and little mentioned in any report. Though not the most beautiful of the Pittas I'd seen, this find was, to me, incredible - I'd not given the possibility of seeing one in Borneo much thought. A real bonus and yet another Pitta!
I floated along to a clearing where huge trees poked above lesser trees and watched the top-most branches while I lay on my back in the sun.
Wrinkled hornbills were hunting small squirrels. Asian fairy bluebirds flew in. The Oriental Honey buzzard circled. Red-throated barbets & Ruby-cheeked sunbirds came & went. Then, along with a pair of Velvet-fronted nuthatches, I was watching a Buff-rumped woodpecker - one of the last woodies I needed! (just Bamboo to go?) A Hair-crested drongo sallied forth high up as I made my way back to HQ.
halftwo
Wird Batcher
The next morning I was to leave at 8:30. I had a couple of hours to get some last Danum in.
Sibe blue robins showed in the morning's half-light up the W-trail. Dawn chorus reached its crescendo. One particular sound was definitely new to me & I wondered what it was. I didn't have to wonder for long as a Helmeted hornbill flew in & perch high up in a nearby tree, thus giving me the final Bornean hornbill for the entire set!
And that was that. Back for breakfast & I passed a Long-tailed shrike - not realising the significance of the sighting. This is a vagrant in Borneo (nasutus race, Philippines range, I think)! Could be another future split?
And so out of Danum & a long drive to Tambunan & the Rafflesia Centre for an entirely different habitat - lowland to highland. A very near miss on the road was the only incident on the journey. I arrived in the late afternoon and the top of the pass was shrouded in thick cold mist.
TIP: Most people mention Tambunan as where the Rafflesia Centre is. It's NOT.
Tambunan is 30 kms away and nowhere near it. The road concerned is the Kota Kinabalu to Tambunan road, not the road that continues from Ranau to Tambunan.
TIP:There is a trail at the Rafflesia Centre - goes for at least 1500mts from the reception into the forest.
TIP: There is one road opposite the Gunung Alab Motel (a dump, but convenient) where you can walk or drive to get away from the main road. I had a few things from there.
The day ended with a distant, just tickable but unsatisfactory view of a singing Bornean barbet - a speciality of this site. And some Large-tailed nightjars giving great views sitting & flying in & from the minor road mentioned above.
Sibe blue robins showed in the morning's half-light up the W-trail. Dawn chorus reached its crescendo. One particular sound was definitely new to me & I wondered what it was. I didn't have to wonder for long as a Helmeted hornbill flew in & perch high up in a nearby tree, thus giving me the final Bornean hornbill for the entire set!
And that was that. Back for breakfast & I passed a Long-tailed shrike - not realising the significance of the sighting. This is a vagrant in Borneo (nasutus race, Philippines range, I think)! Could be another future split?
And so out of Danum & a long drive to Tambunan & the Rafflesia Centre for an entirely different habitat - lowland to highland. A very near miss on the road was the only incident on the journey. I arrived in the late afternoon and the top of the pass was shrouded in thick cold mist.
TIP: Most people mention Tambunan as where the Rafflesia Centre is. It's NOT.
Tambunan is 30 kms away and nowhere near it. The road concerned is the Kota Kinabalu to Tambunan road, not the road that continues from Ranau to Tambunan.
TIP:There is a trail at the Rafflesia Centre - goes for at least 1500mts from the reception into the forest.
TIP: There is one road opposite the Gunung Alab Motel (a dump, but convenient) where you can walk or drive to get away from the main road. I had a few things from there.
The day ended with a distant, just tickable but unsatisfactory view of a singing Bornean barbet - a speciality of this site. And some Large-tailed nightjars giving great views sitting & flying in & from the minor road mentioned above.
