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How close do you hold your eyes to the eyecups? (1 Viewer)

Yes, it happened to me with some larger eyepieced x56 instruments but once again the +1.00 readers solution sidestepped the problem.

You can see more detail too!
 
Hello ChurnOwl -

To get the full field of view, you'll need your eyeballs (not facial features) positioned sufficiently close that you can see the field stops. Meaning the sharp edge defining the entire potential field of view. The height setting for adjustable eyecups can differ for individuals depending on the geometry of said eyecups and faces.

With wider, adjustable eyecups, I always brace against the bottom of the brow ridge. I understand this could be uncomfortable for some, but try using less pressure. Light contact should be sufficient.

Or you might try using the way I hold binoculars most of the time when I need the steadiest view. Support the tubes or prism housing lightly on the palms, extend thumbs and forefingers, and place those against cheek and forehead. Plus contact with brow ridge. This pretty much eliminates hand tremor as a factor and only body/head movement remains. I have done this for decades now - since 1970s actually, and it works very well with all types and sizes of bins.

Fold-down eyecups tend to be smaller in diameter, and those I place farther into the eye socket. Since I never wear glasses, I find those work just dandy for me. I never experience the blackouts with SEs that some have, and really can't say why.

Good luck!
- Bill
 
Hello ChurnOwl -

To get the full field of view, you'll need your eyeballs (not facial features) positioned sufficiently close that you can see the field stops. Meaning the sharp edge defining the entire potential field of view. The height setting for adjustable eyecups can differ for individuals depending on the geometry of said eyecups and faces.

With wider, adjustable eyecups, I always brace against the bottom of the brow ridge. I understand this could be uncomfortable for some, but try using less pressure. Light contact should be sufficient.

Or you might try using the way I hold binoculars most of the time when I need the steadiest view. Support the tubes or prism housing lightly on the palms, extend thumbs and forefingers, and place those against cheek and forehead. Plus contact with brow ridge. This pretty much eliminates hand tremor as a factor and only body/head movement remains. I have done this for decades now - since 1970s actually, and it works very well with all types and sizes of bins.

Fold-down eyecups tend to be smaller in diameter, and those I place farther into the eye socket. Since I never wear glasses, I find those work just dandy for me. I never experience the blackouts with SEs that some have, and really can't say why.

Good luck!
- Bill

You are naturally putting your eyes at the right location, the first time! Some folks can do naturally what others need a team of scientists to achieve. I used to have a heck of a time SEARCHING for Andromedia. Now, after years of practice, I just throw the binos to my eyes and it's just there.

"Just" took a lot of practice.

Bill
 
Holding binoculars steady

Woodfluter

Thank you for passing on your method of holding binoculars steady!

I have never used the method. It has not come naturally to me. It's not a starry night here tonight. I shall therefore try the method instead with a pair of 10x binoculars tomorrow.

Thank you again!

Stephen
 
Crinklystarfish

Ditto. I have fixed the eyecups of a couple of pairs of binoculars, as mentioned earlier, in the 'Up' position. But I do have a pair where the eyecups hold the 'Up' position without help. So I shall try them with Poundstore reading glasses of different strengths with the eyecups in the 'Down' position.

Thank you!

Stephen
 
When I read the OP question I get the impression that the eye cups are not possible to adjust to an optimal level. With other words that the eye cups are not suited for the eye relief of the oculars. Did I understand that correct?
The eye cups shall be held tightly(but not hard) against the eye sockets(or eyeglasses) to enable a stable view. And I have hard to recall that I have had comfort problem with that, even if some eyecups are more comfortable than other.
 
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...The eye cups shall be held tightly(but not hard) against the eye sockets(or eyeglasses) to enable a stable view...

For me "eye socket" = orbit, so I'd instead say "tightly against the bony margin of the eye socket" for those without glasses. Bins with small diameter eyecups fit into the orbit and consequently uncomfortably push against the eyes indirectly through the lids, potentially leading to even more uncomfortable out-of-alignment vision. Avoiding that problem with pocket bins and older models with small diameter eyecups is one of the silver linings of wearing glasses.

--AP
 
For me "eye socket" = orbit, so I'd instead say "tightly against the bony margin of the eye socket" for those without glasses. Bins with small diameter eyecups fit into the orbit and consequently uncomfortably push against the eyes indirectly through the lids, potentially leading to even more uncomfortable out-of-alignment vision. Avoiding that problem with pocket bins and older models with small diameter eyecups is one of the silver linings of wearing glasses.

--AP

I think you describe it well, and more detailed than my somewhat lacking english knowledge allows me to do.

Patric
 
I also like to hold them off my eyes, generally resting them underneath my eyebrow. This allows some space between my eye and cup that allows air flow, helping to reduce the chance of "steaming up".
Better still, some binoculars facilitate a hold that allow me to put the tips of my index fingers on the central boss of the focus knob (of course it helps if the centre does not rotate). This works well for me on some porros like the HRWP and the SRGA, so that the eye-cups are held off my eyes/face. I saw an old porro in someone's collection (A Kershaw, possibly) that had a piece of foam, the size of a wine-bottle cork, stuck onto the centre of a non-rotating focus knob boss. The idea being that this rested on the forehead.
It does seem to work well for some fussy and small eye-cup bins like the SRGA.
Dave
 
How close to your eyes do you hold your binoculars?

Bill ('Woodfluter')

You posted some time back on the above thread, so I quote:

Hello ChurnOwl -

To get the full field of view, you'll need your eyeballs (not facial features) positioned sufficiently close that you can see the field stops. Meaning the sharp edge defining the entire potential field of view. The height setting for adjustable eyecups can differ for individuals depending on the geometry of said eyecups and faces.

With wider, adjustable eyecups, I always brace against the bottom of the brow ridge. I understand this could be uncomfortable for some, but try using less pressure. Light contact should be sufficient.

Or you might try using the way I hold binoculars most of the time when I need the steadiest view. Support the tubes or prism housing lightly on the palms, extend thumbs and forefingers, and place those against cheek and forehead. Plus contact with brow ridge. This pretty much eliminates hand tremor as a factor and only body/head movement remains. I have done this for decades now - since 1970s actually, and it works very well with all types and sizes of bins.

Fold-down eyecups tend to be smaller in diameter, and those I place farther into the eye socket. Since I never wear glasses, I find those work just dandy for me. I never experience the blackouts with SEs that some have, and really can't say why.

Good luck!
- Bill

I have followed your advice with 10x42 binoculars that have the focus wheel in a suitable position for my fingers in relation to the eyecups. And I am satisfied after a couple of outings--as a matter of impression; I don't report a test--that for me your 'method' has achieved a noticeable improvement of stability of view.

Thank you again for posting!

Stephen
 
Maybe I'm missing something here, but if extending the eyecups has them too far out, I'd put them back in.

Of course, if that leaves your eyes out in space at the proper distance, not ideal, either.
 
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