Extra Reach (1 Viewer)

Hi all
I have a question hope you can help with.
I have a Canon 300D and a Sigma 170 – 500mm lens.
You will all understand that sometimes this is not enough reach when taking photos of small birds.
I was thinking of getting a 1.4 converter, I understand that I will lose 1 f stop but will I also lose the auto focus.
If I do lose AF any suggestions on a different lens or any ideas on extending the reach would be appreciated.
Mick

fieldfare said:

Hi all
I have a question hope you can help with.
I have a Canon 300D and a Sigma 170 – 500mm lens.
You will all understand that sometimes this is not enough reach when taking photos of small birds.
I was thinking of getting a 1.4 converter, I understand that I will lose 1 f stop but will I also lose the auto focus.
If I do lose AF any suggestions on a different lens or any ideas on extending the reach would be appreciated.
Mick

Click to expand...

Hi Mick,
I use a tamron 200-500 f5.6-6.3 , occasionaly with a kenko pro 300 1.4x tc. AF is still availible in good light, & only slows a little. In poor light, it does tend to hunt a bit so i then change to manual focus, or remove the tc. Not sure if it would be the same with the sigma lens though.
Regards Rob.

I am not up to you guys yet but i have a 135-400mm and already want more reach for my D70.

Could i cut out the 500mm and go one up?

But then do i have to re-morgage the House? :h?: B

fieldfare said:

Hi all
I have a question hope you can help with.
I have a Canon 300D and a Sigma 170 – 500mm lens.
You will all understand that sometimes this is not enough reach when taking photos of small birds.
I was thinking of getting a 1.4 converter, I understand that I will lose 1 f stop but will I also lose the auto focus.
If I do lose AF any suggestions on a different lens or any ideas on extending the reach would be appreciated.
Mick

Click to expand...

Hi Mick,

You can try a cheapo Tamron 1.4x TC (about USD 80) and AF will still work in the 300D. No need to tape the pins, as this TC is not wired to be seen by the camera. Downside is the EXIF will be reported incorrectly as far as focal length and Av are concerned.

For even longer reach, you can also try the cheapo Tamron 2x. In good light and contrasty subjects, limited AF will still work on the 300D + f/5.6 or f/6.3 lenses, but only on the four outer AF points. The center, top and bottom AF point won't lock at all.

Of course, you will lose light and get some optical degradation with TCs. Likewise, good long lens technique is essential at 700 or 1000 mm to minimize shake.

Here's one of my better 2x TC shots - 300D + Bigma (Sigma 50-500) + Tamron 2x TC, 1000 mm, f/16, ISO 400, I/200 sec, AF using rightmost point and recomposed:

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/38483192/original

Unprocessed 100% crop:
http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/38483400

Cheers,

Romy Ocon said:

Hi Mick,

You can try a cheapo Tamron 1.4x TC (about USD 80) and AF will still work in the 300D. No need to tape the pins, as this TC is not wired to be seen by the camera. Downside is the EXIF will be reported incorrectly as far as focal length and Av are concerned.

For even longer reach, you can also try the cheapo Tamron 2x. In good light and contrasty subjects, limited AF will still work on the 300D + f/5.6 or f/6.3 lenses, but only on the four outer AF points. The center, top and bottom AF point won't lock at all.

Of course, you will lose light and get some optical degradation with TCs. Likewise, good long lens technique is essential at 700 or 1000 mm to minimize shake.

Here's one of my better 2x TC shots - 300D + Bigma (Sigma 50-500) + Tamron 2x TC, 1000 mm, f/16, ISO 400, I/200 sec, AF using rightmost point and recomposed:

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/38483192/original

Unprocessed 100% crop:
http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/38483400

Cheers,

Click to expand...

Romy,

What a Super photograph! may i ask what software you use on your PC, the original is super but the software is exellent too.
At what distance was this? B

Free said:

Romy,

What a Super photograph! may i ask what software you use on your PC, the original is super but the software is exellent too.
At what distance was this? B

Click to expand...

Thanks, Free. It was taken from about 25 feet and processed with PS CS.

Here's one taken at about 40 feet - 300D + Bigma + Sigma 2x TC, MF, f/16, 1/125 sec, ISO 400

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/39277233/original

And one from about 60 meters (200 feet), 350D + Sigmonster (Sigma 300-800 DG) + Sigma 2x TC, 1600 mm, MF, f/22, ISO 400, 1/160 sec

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/42498840/original

This last pic is at an effective angle of view of 2560 mm (given the 350D's 1.6 CF), or 51x compared to a standard 50 mm. Touches digiscoping range, I think...

Cheers,

Romy

Romy Ocon said:

Thanks, Free. It was taken from about 25 feet and processed with PS CS.

Here's one taken at about 40 feet - 300D + Bigma + Sigma 2x TC, MF, f/16, 1/125 sec, ISO 400

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/39277233/original

And one from about 60 meters (200 feet), 350D + Sigmonster (Sigma 300-800 DG) + Sigma 2x TC, 1600 mm, MF, f/22, ISO 400, 1/160 sec

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/42498840/original

This last pic is at an effective angle of view of 2560 mm (given the 350D's 1.6 CF), or 51x compared to a standard 50 mm. Touches digiscoping range, I think...

Cheers,

Romy

Click to expand...

Hi Romy

I am VERY impressed with your photos. I am using the Sigma 500mm F4.5 and the Sigma 1.4 or 2.0 TCs and whilst I love the lens on its own I have had very unsatisfactory results whenever I have added a TC (especially the 2X). One of the major problems appears to be camera shake. Looking through the viewfinder I can see the image wobbling. Even if I have the luxury of a stationery subject, allow the tripod to settle for a while and use a shutter release I still tend to see the signs of camera shake in the photo. I'm guessing that a better tripod might help (I'm using a Kirk BH1 head on a cheapish Arena tripod) and would be interested to know what setup you are using plus I'd be really interested to hear any other tips on how to achieve good long lens technique.

Many thanks.

Sean

Romy Ocon said:

Thanks, Free. It was taken from about 25 feet and processed with PS CS.

Here's one taken at about 40 feet - 300D + Bigma + Sigma 2x TC, MF, f/16, 1/125 sec, ISO 400

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/39277233/original

And one from about 60 meters (200 feet), 350D + Sigmonster (Sigma 300-800 DG) + Sigma 2x TC, 1600 mm, MF, f/22, ISO 400, 1/160 sec

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/42498840/original

This last pic is at an effective angle of view of 2560 mm (given the 350D's 1.6 CF), or 51x compared to a standard 50 mm. Touches digiscoping range, I think...

Cheers,

Romy

Click to expand...

I am gob smacked, they are stunning.
I am just starting out with my middle range D70 135-400mm and when i take what i think is a good photograph i come on here and think.....mmmm Maybe not so good!
Any tips for a learner on starting out to get to where you are at?

As the old proverb says 'You feel a fool for 5 minutes but if you never ask you feel a fool for ever'

Regards. B

Long lens technique

Hi Sean,

In zero to light wind, I do what you do too - frame the bird, AF using the appropriate point (usually not center point if bird fills the frame), wait for the vibration to die down, anticipate a good pose and trip the shutter using a remote switch (no MLU). I support my long lens with a heavy but cheap Manfrotto 475B tripod and 3421 gimbal head. With this technique, I can consistently get sharp pics up to 1600 mm (800 mm + 2x TC) at shutter speeds as low as 1/80 sec.

With MLU, I even used the technique in attempting to shoot Jupiter at 1/30 sec and a focal length of 4525 mm (7240 mm effective, or 145x!) using the Sigma 300-800 DG + stacked Sigma 2x ,Tamron 2x and Sigma 1.4x.

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/42093034

I fared a bit better when I used the 4525 mm combo at the "nearby" moon.

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/42093141/original

When the wind is stronger, the above technique is no longer effective. I just revert to the standard one of placing my left hand on top of the lens (above the tripod collar), pressing my face against the VF, with breathing control and shutter press akin to firing a rifle at the range. I also avoid using TCs and go for higher shutter speeds in this case.

Regards,

Romy

SeanKP said:

Hi Romy

I am VERY impressed with your photos. I am using the Sigma 500mm F4.5 and the Sigma 1.4 or 2.0 TCs and whilst I love the lens on its own I have had very unsatisfactory results whenever I have added a TC (especially the 2X). One of the major problems appears to be camera shake. Looking through the viewfinder I can see the image wobbling. Even if I have the luxury of a stationery subject, allow the tripod to settle for a while and use a shutter release I still tend to see the signs of camera shake in the photo. I'm guessing that a better tripod might help (I'm using a Kirk BH1 head on a cheapish Arena tripod) and would be interested to know what setup you are using plus I'd be really interested to hear any other tips on how to achieve good long lens technique.

Many thanks.

Sean

Click to expand...

Free said:

I am gob smacked, they are stunning.
I am just starting out with my middle range D70 135-400mm and when i take what i think is a good photograph i come on here and think.....mmmm Maybe not so good!
Any tips for a learner on starting out to get to where you are at?

As the old proverb says 'You feel a fool for 5 minutes but if you never ask you feel a fool for ever'

Regards. B

Click to expand...

Hi Free,

I'm flattered with your comments, but i'm just a newbie myself (and a color-blind shooter at that ), having taken up the hobby just over a year ago.

I do shoot and bird a lot, and always read literature by and about the masters, like Artie Morris. Being active in photo forums like DP Review accelerates the learning process too.

Regards,

Romy

If you can, use MLU (mirror lock up) with a remote release, it really can make a substantial difference to your results... that mirror going up with long lenses (with dslr crop factor + in-computer cropping) is little short of a photographic earthquake. Even I.S./VR cannot help that much with this effect, as these systems rely heavily on the specific movement before the shot.

MLU isn't appropriate for moving subjects, mainly because you cannot see anything through the viewfinder with the mirror up. Traditional methods of calming the set-up down have been mentioned... hand or heavy bean bag atop the lens.



cheers,
Andy