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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Advice please (1 Viewer)

Thanks so much . After researching your recommendation I’m heading towards the

panasonic G9 and a PanaLeica 100-400

Do you know if this will be enough reach. I’ve read it goes up to 800 but don’t understand this to be honest. is there a teleconvertor available for these? . Apologies if I don’t know what I’m talking about!! Thanks again.
WEX have a used version of that lens for £794.
I think the 800mm will be the 'full frame equivalent' on a micro 4/3 camera with a 400mm lens.
 
Thanks so much . After researching your recommendation I’m heading towards the

panasonic G9 and a PanaLeica 100-400

Do you know if this will be enough reach. I’ve read it goes up to 800 but don’t understand this to be honest. is there a teleconvertor available for these? . Apologies if I don’t know what I’m talking about!! Thanks again.
There is no teleconverter for this lens. If you go to my images in the birdforum gallery, you will see images taken with this lens and the G85 (at least those from the last several years).
Niels
 
Here’s one of my beginner efforts. A snow bunting.

That's nice mate. Being brutally honest, 'just a shame part of the bird is in shadow.

If it helps, I see people taking pictures the second a bird turns up regardless of where the sun is in relation to your camera (as if they will never see such a bird again and so they have to take that picture at that second). I think it's best to manoeuvre yourself into a position where the light is more in your favour. If the bird flies off while you're doing this, then never mind because you will see that species again at some point in the near future.
 
That's nice mate. Being brutally honest, 'just a shame part of the bird is in shadow.

If it helps, I see people taking pictures the second a bird turns up regardless of where the sun is in relation to your camera (as if they will never see such a bird again and so they have to take that picture at that second). I think it's best to manoeuvre yourself into a position where the light is more in your favour. If the bird flies off while you're doing this, then never mind because you will see that species again at some point in the near future.
With digital cameras, why not do both? Shoot early and then if the bird stays, look at how to improve.
Niels
 
With digital cameras, why not do both? Shoot early and then if the bird stays, look at how to improve.
Niels

Birds don't stay long in the same spot, the longer you take the more chance there is of the bird flying off . When Birdandcakes has set himself/herself certain standards he/she won't want to keep a picture of a bird half in shadow and so why bother taking a picture you know you're not going to keep, knowing you're wasting precious seconds that could be used to get yourself in the right position before the bird flies off.

That's a really nice picture he or she has taken there, 'just the direction of the light in relation to the camera is not in favour, 'would have been a beauty if he/she had manoeuvred a bit in relation to the light.

We have a saying in this country: "all good things come to those who wait", and I think that applies photographing birds. We have another saying: "more haste; less speed".
 
So less than my cheap bridge which is 63 optical zoom?
I'm not sure what your 63x starts at - 63x isn't a useful measure if you don't know what it's multiplying :) What's the model? It probably does have more range though. But with a M43 sensor you would be able to crop the image more before losing quality...
 
Thanks so much . After researching your recommendation I’m heading towards the

panasonic G9 and a PanaLeica 100-400

Do you know if this will be enough reach. I’ve read it goes up to 800 but don’t understand this to be honest. is there a teleconvertor available for these? . Apologies if I don’t know what I’m talking about!! Thanks again.
Is there anywhere close to you that you can try it out? That would let you test the 'reach'. Most people would like more reach but even with modern day image stabilisation you have a limit to what you can hand hold especially if the light isn't great.
 
I'm not sure what your 63x starts at - 63x isn't a useful measure if you don't know what it's multiplying :) What's the model? It probably does have more range though. But with a M43 sensor you would be able to crop the image more before losing quality...
As Richard says. A larger sensor and much less noise.
 
Thanks so much . After researching your recommendation I’m heading towards the

panasonic G9 and a PanaLeica 100-400

Do you know if this will be enough reach. I’ve read it goes up to 800 but don’t understand this to be honest. is there a teleconvertor available for these? . Apologies if I don’t know what I’m talking about!! Thanks again.
The Panasonic (also Olympus) uses a sensor half the size of the 36x24mm 'full frame' used in the big Sony, Canon and Nikon models.
That translates to a 2x magnification versus the full frame for the same size lens. Note that the superzooms take advantage of this aspect, that smaller sensor translates to bigger magnification with same size lens. To illustrate, the sensor in the Nikon P950 is only 6.1x4.6mm, the Sony RX10s is 13.2x8.8mm.
That is a big part of why the Sony has less reach than the Nikon, it would need a bigger, heavier lens to feed its bigger sensor a more magnified image.
Against that, the Sony's bigger sensor allows shooting in lower light and produces more detailed images.
So as usual, at any given price the variables are image quality, camera size and reach, pick any two.
 
Pick some models you fancy and check their weight - remove those that you find are too heavy. I know that I have reached my maximum with the panasonic/panaleica 100-400 combo.

then, among those you feel are acceptable in weight - check images taken with that combo.

Niels
 
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