A D800 at last (2 Viewers)

[Neil]

Hi folks. I'm happy with my D800 and af-s 300mm f4 with 1.4 TCII but I'm thinking about investing in the 2x TCiii for just that extra reach.
Some nice results seen on this forum but I'm a little puzzled that some prefer the 1.4.
Would anybody think this move is a mistake?
It's still a bit expensive so I don't want to waste my cash.

Thanks for your feedback.

Mistake Stoop. Don't do it. It will focus on slow moving subjects but not fast action. If you want more reach get the new Nikon V2. It will give you 800 plus mms which is great for HD video. It's also much faster than the D800.
Of course you will need the FT1 adapter too, so an expensive option.
Neil.

 

[swainsons]

My experience with the D7000 will put me off for years.

And what is it that put you off the D7000?? Honestly, I recently bought 1 and its not as forgiving as my stellar D90, but when I do nail the shot its spectacular. Those extra Megapixels demand exact use.

Kind Regards

 

[pe'rigin]

I'm not convinced you need a TC with the D800, I have not used one with mine yet. The file size is so good that it really does give you leeway. Plus adding a TC is another weight and in-balance to the holding of the camera.

 

[Dave Williams]

Must admit, all the cropped shots I have seen so far have not convinced me that cropping is better than optical enlargement in the first place.To benefit from all the detail that all those mp's give you, you still need to get as much of the subject in the frame as possible. I think you would get better detail with a 100% increase in reach via a TC rather than a 100% crop but I stand to be corrected if anyone can demonstrate it.
The V1 seemed a bit of a flop for the majority who used it so as for V2 technology I remain to be convinced that that is the way forward at this moment in time until it's had a good field trial. The cost of a V2 and converter is more than twice the price of a 2.0TC.
Just my opinion of course !

 

[Neil]

I bought the Nikon 50/1.8 G lens before my Sydney trip. It only cost US$200 so must be the best value-for-money of the Nikon lenses. The 35mm was also the same price.
This image was taken with it on the D800.
I haven't compared with older lenses or my Zeiss yet.
Neil.

 

[Neil]

I was shooting the D800 and the 300/4 plus TC 14E11 while in Sydney. For the first two had wonderful early morning light and I was out before sunrise.
I can't get this quality of light in Hong Kong.
Neil.

 

[Neil]

I have shot with the 300/2.8 AFS VR lens on the D800 a few times but I gave it a good workout this week with the TC 20E111 tele on it.
Light was bright/hazy but under 50 meters it was possible to get some good images.
Neil.

 

[stoop]

Thanks everyone for the feedback and thanks Neil for some beautiful examples.
I just did a bird tour at Cape York (Queensland, Australia) with D800 af-s 300 f4 plus 1.4 TCii. It was good for fly-byes and some close encounters but running around with a group of people with a monopod, I was lagging a bit. We saw lots of birds but didn't have time to nestle-in getting close. Had good views with binocs but I was useless behind the lens. (esp. in the rainforest) Most of my results need enormous cropping, so thought of the 2x TC (although no VR on the 300f4). Maybe a Sigma 150-500mm with image stablization would be a portable choice with better reach for such occasions? Was travelling from OS too so had to keep the weight down.
I have a V1 with FT1 adaptor but wanted something I could get flight shots with in a rush.
It's all an interesting discussion for me anyhow. I would like to get the most pixels on my subjects but be light on foot as well.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback.

 

[Neil]

I've been experimenting with the AF settings on the D800. After reading various experts on how to set up the camera , I had some suggesting 3D (51 points ) and some 9 points.
I had been looking at ways to speed up the exposure process so I changed a lot of my settings eg switching off Preview.
I tried both 3D and 9 points and both have some advantages. I've finally settled on the 9 point as it seems to be faster and less likely jump to another subject passing by.
This series of Pied Kingfisher images with the 300/4 + 1.4x is the best I've ever got.
Neil

 

[ericbowles]

Neil

I think you have the right idea, and that is to use the fewest possible AF sensors. 9 points is great if you have reasonable sized predictable subjects. 21 points is a good compromise as the birds are a little easier to track. 51 points is really the exception - for those difficult subjects.

Likewise tracking is important if the subject is in a thicket or a flock. You don't want to lose focus because the subject is briefly blocked by a wingtip or a small stick. So generally you want Focus Tracking with Lock-On set to Short (1 or 2). This allows you to quickly acquire a new target but follow it through "traffic".

There are pros and cons on using the Shutter to activate AF. I like to use the back button (AF-On) approach, but for moving subjects you need to be sure to hold the button so AF tracks rather than focus and release. The shutter release approach also works for birds in flight.

 

[RMWD]

Brilliant images Neil. I enjoy using the D800 more and more. I'm surprised at how good it is with a 300mmf2.8 and 2tcieiii. Af is fast also.

 

[Neil]

Neil

I think you have the right idea, and that is to use the fewest possible AF sensors. 9 points is great if you have reasonable sized predictable subjects. 21 points is a good compromise as the birds are a little easier to track. 51 points is really the exception - for those difficult subjects.

Likewise tracking is important if the subject is in a thicket or a flock. You don't want to lose focus because the subject is briefly blocked by a wingtip or a small stick. So generally you want Focus Tracking with Lock-On set to Short (1 or 2). This allows you to quickly acquire a new target but follow it through "traffic".

There are pros and cons on using the Shutter to activate AF. I like to use the back button (AF-On) approach, but for moving subjects you need to be sure to hold the button so AF tracks rather than focus and release. The shutter release approach also works for birds in flight.

One of the "experts" suggested switching off the FOCUS TRACKING which I've done. In fact most things are switched off.
I meant REVIEW in my last comment, not PREVIEW.
I'm trying everything but it seems faster now and I'm happy with the current settings.
For Greenshanks in flight I'll switch back to 51 points 3D though which will track an erratically flying subject.
Neil.

 

[Neil]

Thanks everyone for the feedback and thanks Neil for some beautiful examples.
I just did a bird tour at Cape York (Queensland, Australia) with D800 af-s 300 f4 plus 1.4 TCii. It was good for fly-byes and some close encounters but running around with a group of people with a monopod, I was lagging a bit. We saw lots of birds but didn't have time to nestle-in getting close. Had good views with binocs but I was useless behind the lens. (esp. in the rainforest) Most of my results need enormous cropping, so thought of the 2x TC (although no VR on the 300f4). Maybe a Sigma 150-500mm with image stablization would be a portable choice with better reach for such occasions? Was travelling from OS too so had to keep the weight down.
I have a V1 with FT1 adaptor but wanted something I could get flight shots with in a rush.
It's all an interesting discussion for me anyhow. I would like to get the most pixels on my subjects but be light on foot as well.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback.

Stoop,
You should have just stayed at Kingfisher Lodge , sat on the porch and photographed the birds in the garden. Chasing birds through the Australian bush with bird watcher's is not my idea of good photo ops.
Neil.

 

[Neil]

Shooting with the 300/2.8 AFS VR and TC 20E 111 at my new settings gave me a lot more keepers. The good light early did help as well.
Neil.

 

[orca]

Great shots. I really like the Little Egret, and the Spoonbills in flight ~~~ wow , so much going on in one photo ~~ stunning.

 

[stoop]

Stoop,
You should have just stayed at Kingfisher Lodge , sat on the porch and photographed the birds in the garden. Chasing birds through the Australian bush with bird watcher's is not my idea of good photo ops.
Neil.

Yes, gee I'd like to be at Kingfisher lodge now!

I've attached some pics taken with D800 af-s 300 f4 + 1.4TCii.

1.The first is an Eastern Barn Owl taken handheld from the back window of a 4WD. ISO 1600.

The front passenger was trying to follow it with a spot light. I was lucky to get the shot even though I know it's not publishable.

2. Blue-faced Honeyeater with monopod
3. Blue-winged Kookaburra with monopod

4. This is at ISO 16000 f5.6 1/800 +.67. Taken on a very gloomy Sunday afternoon. (Nov 11) I'm pretty excited by this. I have put a couple of posts in the birding forum trying to ID a subspecies of peregrine which is unusual (I think) for Japan. More examples on my blog; If anyone has good knowledge of peregrine subspecies, I'd be very grateful for your feedback.

-I'm really excited by the performance of this camera and lens when I really needed it on Sunday. Mostly hand held apart from getting support on a fence post. It was very dark with backlighting and I am over the moon by the results.

Dare I question the 300 f4 with 1.4 TCii!!

But I have noticed the thread where the 1.7 is mentioned and I do have the serious "I wants" after seeing Neil's pics with the 300 2.8 and 2x TC.

Regards,

Russell

 

[mr_birdman]

why are people interested in d800 for birding when it only does 4fps ? I was told I needed a lot more .

IMO that's because they can be lazy and sit 200m away and crop out to 5% of the original frame instead of becoming better at fieldcraft and get close. 8-P

 

[Jason Bugay Reyes]

Neil and the rest with D800/E

You mentioned about ISO 3200 and above, is it better than the D3s ?

 

[Neil]

Neil and the rest with D800/E

You mentioned about ISO 3200 and above, is it better than the D3s ?

No, the D3s is about 2 stops better than 800.
Neil

 

[ericbowles]

No, the D3s is about 2 stops better than 800.
Neil

I don't think this is correct. DxOMark reports a very small difference in ISO performance - less than 1/6 stop - between the D800 and D3s. The D3s is a little better in high ISO noise, but falls slightly short of the D800 in terms of dynamic range and color. They are so close as to be equivalent to ISO 12,800.

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Ca...rand2)/Nikon/(appareil3)/628|0/(brand3)/Nikon

One thing to keep in mind is that base ISO for the D3s is 200 while it is ISO 100 for the D4 and D800. That provides a benefit for the D800 in noise, color and dynamic range at low ISO levels.