We've been to Costa Rica twice in the past ten years, in January / February.
In my opinion, Monteverde is well worth the grueling drive in. We did it both times in a standard 2WD vehicle, though it's a little unnerving trying to dodge the potholes and the large rocks, and a high-clearance vehicle would make things easier. Figure an hour to go the last 20 kilometers. A 4WD would be essential in the rainy season.
If you're the adventurous type, I have heard it is possible to go in from the Fortuna side on horseback.
In looking for quetzals at Monteverde, we realized on our first trip that you have to go where the guided tours go, to get the best chance of seeing them. The way it's set up, the entrance for people not on guided tours leads you onto a different path than the tours use, so it's an extra mile or so to work you way around.
We did this on our second trip. We had my mom with us, and I was determined to find her a quetzal, but our guided walk fell through at the last minute. We got over onto the path (upper left if you're looking at the map) that leads to the waterfall, and listened for the call; I found a male and then the female within 15 minutes. Lucky to be able to look so clever for my mom.
Re Braulio Carrillo, I have heard the same stories about bad 'uns there, and have passed it by except for a few looks from the highway.
Cerro de la Muerte is great -- that whole stretch of higher-elevation road offers some good birding. The bus from San Jose south usually stops at a little place called La Georgina for lunch; when we did the trip in a private car, we stopped and birded in the pastures and forest below. Locals were very cooperative about letting us onto their land.
We stayed at Selva Verde the first trip; it's nice, and reasonable value for the money. Rara Avis is in the same general area but much rougher and not much cheaper. It seems to be staffed by college-age folks, some of whom are knowledgeable and some not.
My strongest recommendation (if finances permit) is the Osa Peninsula. We have seen scarlet macaws both times, as well as motmots (flying right past you whilst sitting on the verandah), all manner of tanagers, and I can't recall what all else right now, with my notes not handy. Some of the lodging options are pricey, but others are not so bad, and the local guides are knowledgeable. You can get as far as Palmar Norte by bus, then take a taxi to Sierpe, and from there you go by private boat down the river and across Bahia Drake to the peninsula. (The place you stay will usually arrange for the boat.)
We also went to Palo Verde and found it very productive (this was in January), but again I don't have my list handy to tell you exactly what we saw. It would be tough without a car, as it's a bit off the main drag, on an unpaved road.
If you're going to rent a car, see if the place you're staying the first night in San Jose has recommendations for you, or will make the booking. You're more likely to get good service if the car hire agency is dealing with a hotel (etc.) rather than some tourist they'll never see again.
In my opinion, Monteverde is well worth the grueling drive in. We did it both times in a standard 2WD vehicle, though it's a little unnerving trying to dodge the potholes and the large rocks, and a high-clearance vehicle would make things easier. Figure an hour to go the last 20 kilometers. A 4WD would be essential in the rainy season.
If you're the adventurous type, I have heard it is possible to go in from the Fortuna side on horseback.
In looking for quetzals at Monteverde, we realized on our first trip that you have to go where the guided tours go, to get the best chance of seeing them. The way it's set up, the entrance for people not on guided tours leads you onto a different path than the tours use, so it's an extra mile or so to work you way around.
We did this on our second trip. We had my mom with us, and I was determined to find her a quetzal, but our guided walk fell through at the last minute. We got over onto the path (upper left if you're looking at the map) that leads to the waterfall, and listened for the call; I found a male and then the female within 15 minutes. Lucky to be able to look so clever for my mom.
Re Braulio Carrillo, I have heard the same stories about bad 'uns there, and have passed it by except for a few looks from the highway.
Cerro de la Muerte is great -- that whole stretch of higher-elevation road offers some good birding. The bus from San Jose south usually stops at a little place called La Georgina for lunch; when we did the trip in a private car, we stopped and birded in the pastures and forest below. Locals were very cooperative about letting us onto their land.
We stayed at Selva Verde the first trip; it's nice, and reasonable value for the money. Rara Avis is in the same general area but much rougher and not much cheaper. It seems to be staffed by college-age folks, some of whom are knowledgeable and some not.
My strongest recommendation (if finances permit) is the Osa Peninsula. We have seen scarlet macaws both times, as well as motmots (flying right past you whilst sitting on the verandah), all manner of tanagers, and I can't recall what all else right now, with my notes not handy. Some of the lodging options are pricey, but others are not so bad, and the local guides are knowledgeable. You can get as far as Palmar Norte by bus, then take a taxi to Sierpe, and from there you go by private boat down the river and across Bahia Drake to the peninsula. (The place you stay will usually arrange for the boat.)
We also went to Palo Verde and found it very productive (this was in January), but again I don't have my list handy to tell you exactly what we saw. It would be tough without a car, as it's a bit off the main drag, on an unpaved road.
If you're going to rent a car, see if the place you're staying the first night in San Jose has recommendations for you, or will make the booking. You're more likely to get good service if the car hire agency is dealing with a hotel (etc.) rather than some tourist they'll never see again.
