Wow Henry! the lengths you go to to prove a point - I'm impressed
Seriously impressive. I´m tempted to poke around in my binos myself as a result, but I´d have no idea how to put them back together again. Thanks Henry!
Wow Henry! the lengths you go to to prove a point - I'm impressed
Here are some photos of the innards of an 8x30 EII (left) and an 8x32 SE.
I don't think there is anything deficient about the internal construction or finish of the EII. There are some design differences, primarily in the prism shelf which is cast together with the housing as one piece in the EII and is a separate piece held in place by screws and clips in the SE. It could be that the SE method is a little more shock resistant, but I don't really know that. Both use glue and spring clips to secure the prisms to the self and both have light blocking shields over the prisms.
The photos of the lens cells show a deeper baffling cone on the SE. You might think that would be better, but the size of the opening at the front of the cone of the EII is a better match to the lens size which makes it a bit more resistant to vailing glare than the SE.
Both use eccentric ring collimation and have grooved prisms. In other words things are done as they should be done in both, but the SE has a nice extra touch of casting the eyepiece sleeves as one piece with the rest of the prism housing. That along with the absence of back and front plates and the tight fit of the rubber armor between the prism housing and the objective should increase its water resistance (except for the eye-lens).
Henry,Well, I've had to change my view of how the prism housing is done in the SE. I began to wonder just how the prism cluster could be placed through the small opening of a one piece housing, something like how does the ship get into the bottle? Turns out the prism housing is made of two interlocking pieces. You can see the seam in photo below. It's mostly concealed under the rubber armor and even where it's visible just behind the hinge the fit is so tight that it doesn't really look like a seam. AFAIK this kind of construction is unique to the SE series.
Henry,
Thank you very much for this information. Much appreciated.
Frank
Ok. I think I will try a pair of EII's. What magnification would you all recommend? The 8x30's or the 10x35's. Thanks!
You cant go wrong which ever magnification you decide on, both are excellent, the 10x does sit very nice in the hand though..
Hi Dennis
Well i own both sizes and there is not a great deal in it imho Although the 10 x has longer barrels which do make them easier to hold
Some folk have said they suffer as much shake with the 8 x as the 10 x because of the 8 x short body but you can add quake flip up covers or such to extend the 8x
I added the Quake's to my 8 x and its a lot easier to hold still
Both views are great but the 10 x has a real "wow" factor on field and image scale
I tend to use the 10 x for airshows and 8x for garden and woodland viewing
Both bins have an astonishing fov if you can see it all and considering the small objective sizes the brightness is really good
Regards
RichT
Funny how different perceptions can be. I got the wow factor from the 8x and I also think they are great in the hand - I have small hands. We are all different!
Paul
Enjoy, Denco! I look forward to your review. If you like them, keep them...even if you haven´t used them for a year! You´ll regret having let them go!OK. I bought the Nikon 10x35 EII off a major website.....
Enjoy, Denco! I look forward to your review. If you like them, keep them...even if you haven´t used them for a year! You´ll regret having let them go!
I know what he means about image scale. When things are suddenly close, big and sharp it does make you go wow. The 10X magnification tends to do that because it does bring things alot closer than 8X.
Anybody know what size Bushwacker lens cover it takes for the objective lens.
The objective trim rings on the 10x35 EII are almost exactly the same size as the 8x32 SE.
I have a pair of 10x35 EII's mostly because a couple of years ago a local store was offering a refurbished pair for $200. My personal bias is against 10x magnification, small exit pupils (less than 5mm) and widely spaced objective lenses, so even an excellent 10x35 Porro is not my cup of tea. I like the 10x35 EII better than I thought I would, but it does display some of the things I expected from the type, like reduced DOF, more image shake and a generally less relaxed and more finicky experience than I have with a good large exit pupil 8x. Still, it has excellent light transmission and will show all the detail any 10x binocular can show, so I'm inclined to keep it for the rare occasions when 10x seems like a good idea.
One item that hasn't come up in this thread is the tendency of the leatherette covering on some EII's to blister and eventually separate from the metal body. My 8x30 did that long ago and I just noticed today the first signs in my 10x35. Hopefully Nikon has found some better glue by now.
One item that hasn't come up in this thread is the tendency of the leatherette covering on some EII's to blister and eventually separate from the metal body. My 8x30 did that long ago and I just noticed today the first signs in my 10x35. Hopefully Nikon has found some better glue by now.
Hi Dennis
I'm pretty sure the Quake Bushwackers are size 5
I have them on both 8x and 10 x
Regards
RichT