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Hawke ED vs Promaster ED vs Nikon SE 8x32 (1 Viewer)

Kevin Purcell

Well-known member
I own and love my 10x42 SE and am very interested in comparing a Nikon 8x32SE to my 8x32BN and 8x42 Ultravid. I would be curious how the famous 8x32SE compared to one of these new Chinese wonderkinds as well.

I have all three and have compared them.

Executive summary: the SE is a bit sharper and a bit "cleaner" than the Hawke or the Promaster. Would anyone have expected a different outcome ;)

The "cleaner" bit is that slight ... "haze" or "fog" is way too strong a word ... but the bins have a particular view that I've come to associate with roof prisms (though I've not owned the very top 4 roofs so I don't know if they have that problem). I've seen a worse version of this same sort of view less expensive bins. And this sort of feeling seems absent in less expensive good porros (e.g. my Celestron Ultima DX 8x32).

That said both the Hawke and the Promaster are very good bins. I also have a Bushnell Elite 8x43 (the revision before the current one without the 4 stop eyecups). In comparing the Hawke or the Promaster view to the Elite I give the Hawke or the Promaster the edge: they're sharper, have (much) less CA and a generally slightly better view. And given the common review ordering is Euro 3 + Nikon top bins then Bushnell Elite that puts the Hawke or the Promaster just behind the top 4 (which is remarkable but true).

When I compare SE, Promaster and Hawke for stray light issues e.g. how close can you get to the sun before the image degrades or rather how much does the image degrade 20 degrees away from the sun (one full hand span at arms length ... easy to measure in the field). The Hawke is worse that the Elite or the Promaster with stray light though (they really should have small FOV). The Promaster is reasonable with stray light but starts to have problems at 20 degrees out. From other reports I've seen it's not as good as one of the top 4 bins. The SE seems much more resistant to close to the sun stray light issues.

One other point on Hawke and the Promaster is the coatings aren't quite identical. Using a mini Maglite in candle mode as a small bright target in the dark I can see more ghosting in the Hawke than in the Promaster I have. Same with diffraction spikes from the roof prism: the Hawke has more pronouced diffraction spikes (and I suspect that is at least part of the cause of the "haze"). Promaster has very small (and in some cases no) diffraction spikes with this test. The SE doesn't have diffraction spikes (it's a porro) and the AR coatings are excellent with no ghosting. So this leads me to believe that perhaps the component quality in the Promaster is a bit better than the Hawke (and I presume other similar ED but we need to test that).

One thing to keep in mind is this is a small sample but the differences in the two pairs is noticeable and consistent (it's not like one has better AR and the other has better diffraction spikes).

So in order of optical quality: SE, Promaster and Hawke.

Of course optics aren't the only consideration when picking a bin. Some people have problems with the SE and it's eye relief (which seems to be a combination of too large ER and not very adjustable eyecups: if you wear glasses increase the vertex distance if you are having problems i.e. adjust the nose mount to move the glasses away from your eyes).

Ergonomics are another issue. This could go both ways. The SE is compact and light weight but wider (it is a porro) but I find it easy to grip comfortably in my quite large hands. The Hawke and Promaster are open-bridge and it's easier to wrap small hands around them. I like the grip I get from both of them. But they're heavier. I even find the focusing knob slightly easier to use (though slower) on the roofs than on the SE. But I could use either.

The other problem is lack of waterproofing in the SE. This is perhaps the biggest reason I don't use them as much in rainy Seattle. I suspect I'm being overprotective

Finally the service and warranty. Nikon seems to be pretty good (after perhaps a bad patch) in service. They can repair and refurbish older bins. For the other two I think the standard mode of operation is replacement.
 
Thanks Kevin. I have the Promaster 8x and the FOV and overall view is better than any <$1000 bino I have used.

So does the Hawke have a yet wider FOV ? The Promaster is as wide as any I have used and I have used most all.

Dave
 
Thanks Kevin. I have the Promaster 8x and the FOV and overall view is better than any <$1000 bino I have used.

So does the Hawke have a yet wider FOV ? The Promaster is as wide as any I have used and I have used most all.

Hawke is 8.1 degrees compared to the Promasters 7.5 degrees. For me the latter is plenty wide enough and the Hawke is a bit of overkill.

The 10x Promaster you are waiting for has a 6.5 degree FOV and it might be interesting to compare stray light in the two.

I suspect (my hypothesis is ...) that the amount of stray light problems in roof prism bins is related to the the FOV the eyepiece is exposed too (i.e. stray light getting to the outer edges of the EP field that's bouncing through the prism or getting around the prism and baffles) so you should see fewer problems with the 10x . I'm currently trying to see if this is true of the Vortex Diamondback 8x42 and the Bushnell Excursion 10x42 I have (they're supposed to be the same optics).

One data point for this is my Pentax HS 8x36 a not very expensive bin has very good stray light performance (better than the Pentax WP 8x32) which I put down to it's 6.5 degree FOV versus 7.5 degree FOV in the WP. I suspect too this is where the Pentax "narrow" design style comes from.

Oribtaljump: you might not think that when you can't ID a bird for veiling glare but the guy next to you can ;)

Wide FOV (and the accompanying wide AFOV) is an easy thing for marketers to jump on ("Look it's a huge picture window view") and users to recognize ("Look at this one, Ethel") without considering the more subtle downsides that appear in the field. It happened with "wide angle" bins in the past though current 8 degree bins are rather better looking across the field!

I do like wide FOVs and I'm impressed how big they can be but there are trade offs and it's worth keeping in mind what that trade off is. In fact you can get good wide field of view and good stray light handling in the Zeiss 7x42 (Classic or FL) but you have to pay for the rather careful design (and I suspect that the AK rather than the SP roof prism may help too).
 
Very nice comparison Kevin. Sorry for not commenting sooner. I would certainly agree with your observations....especially in terms of the "fog"/clarity level you mentioned when going from one bin to the next.
 
Well, I can do wide, 8x32, and narrow 8x42..as soon as they get repaired. The stray light only comes into play for me when the light is bad no matter what bin I use. Maybe it is because I do not wear glasses normally? When I wear glasses, all kids of stuff bothers me.

I do not mind the narrow if I get something for it, like 10x power. The fov in 8x42 vs 10x42 is usually not much different, 315ft vs 350ft.
 
Ah, Frank, nice to see you back ;)

So you can answer the question though I suspect another post of yours today might have already answered it. That post is here (to keep everyone in the loop):

http://birdforum.net/showpost.php?p=1351249&postcount=6

How did the SE compare to the Zeiss FL 7x42 in this sort of test?

Do you see that "haze" or not?

Have the really top level bins eliminated it?

I suspect so otherwise I wouldn't have the bin (like the Hawke and the Promaster, I bought the SE from Frank).

Anyone else who has a good roof and a SE who cares to do a similar AB test I'd love to here the results. You can do it whilst birding (in fact I think that's the best way to do it). Just take both out for an hour or so and look at a bunch of birds alternating the bins. Even crows, chickadees, robins and the like make good targets for these tests.
 
How did the SE compare to the Zeiss FL 7x42 in this sort of test? Do you see that "haze" or not? Have the really top level bins eliminated it?

I suppose I might know what you mean by "haze"--it's that subtle (but obvious in direct comparison) quality of the view of cheap and mid-range roofs that inspires me to dismiss them all as optically mediocre. I attribute it to a lack of contrast. Top-end roofs have a much more "vibrant" view in comparison, and it seems they show fine details more clearly. I would say that the best roofs from Leica, Zeiss, Swarovski and Nikon deliver a view that is as "clean" as the SE and other good and excellent porros. The SE view still distinguishes itself in comparison to many top roofs for its low chromatic aberration and low astigmatism and field curvature, even at the periphery of the view.

--AP
 
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