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Please help me identify and fix an old pair of binoculars (3 Viewers)

el2023

Member
United States
I have a pretty good quality pair of Binoculars that belonged to my grandfather which is probably at least 50 years old and from Europe. I would love to know who the manufacturer is but there are no markings. Images are attached.
More importantly, when I try to turn one of the eyepieces to focus, it turns loosely around again without affecting the focus. Does anyone know how I can fix it.
Thanks
 

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Hi el2023,

To make things easier to view, I've cropped the images, significantly reduced the file sizes and adjusted the exposure to show more detail:

Image a.jpg

Image b.jpg

Image c.jpg


From what can be seen:
There are no visible markings on the top plates, and the left eyepiece glass differs from the right, as does the eyecup.

It appears 'Zeiss like', perhaps a 6x30 Silvamar. Hopefully, someone can be more specific.


John
 
Looks more like an old Leitz and less like a Zeiss to me.
Notice the shape of the prism housing and the two screws on the bottom that hold the cover of the prism housing. That being said, I also found Silvamars with 2 screws but the eyecups looks slightly different -- but those came in many shapes, too.

But it could basically be anything as there were many makers of 6x30 military binos and they all look very much alike.
Like PZO, Ruf & Co., etc.
 
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It is a Zeiss Jenna 6x30. You can tell by the eye cups. They are an exact match.
No, they are not. Take a closer look. The straight part of the eyecups is longer on the Zeiss. BTW -- it's "JENA" not "JENNA".
Edit: why do you delete your posts? It's not that bad of a mistake. In fact I found quite a few different versions of the eyecups on the Zeiss Silvamar. So I don't rule out that it might be one in fact. But it could just as well be something else as many of those 6x30s looked so similar.
 
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I have a pretty good quality pair of Binoculars that belonged to my grandfather which is probably at least 50 years old and from Europe. I would love to know who the manufacturer is but there are no markings. Images are attached.
More importantly, when I try to turn one of the eyepieces to focus, it turns loosely around again without affecting the focus. Does anyone know how I can fix it.
Thanks
Check first for a grub screw in the side of the eyecup. If present, undo it a bit then unscrew the cup. Use a knife to gently prize the next ring off. It's very thin so be careful. Under the ring you will see three grub screws that secure the focus ring to the optics. Tighten them and you will be able to change the focus. It is likely that the index marks will be in the wrong place so set the focus to match the other eyepiece, loosen the three grub screws and move the focus ring so it matches the other side. Tighten the screws. Replace the thin cover ring and the eyecup. Tighten the screw in the cup if there is one.
 
Check first for a grub screw in the side of the eyecup. If present, undo it a bit then unscrew the cup. Use a knife to gently prize the next ring off. It's very thin so be careful. Under the ring you will see three grub screws that secure the focus ring to the optics. Tighten them and you will be able to change the focus. It is likely that the index marks will be in the wrong place so set the focus to match the other eyepiece, loosen the three grub screws and move the focus ring so it matches the other side. Tighten the screws. Replace the thin cover ring and the eyecup. Tighten the screw in the cup if there is one.
Thanks, I appreciate the help. Unfortunately no screws on the side of the eyecup.
 
OK. Just unscrew the eyecup .
Don't see how to unscrew it.
The good news is I just noticed the source of the problem. To adjust the focus the eyepiece is supposed to twist around a fixed part, but the fixed part turns around with the eyepiece when I turn the eyepiece. See the attached image which shows the fixed part. Sorry I'm not familiar with the correct terminology.
Thanks
 

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On most of the later individual focus binoculars, the eyepiece tube that mounts to the body of the bino screws into the body with a clockwise turn of the tube till snug. If both the eyepiece and the tube move together either the bottom (tube) is loose, the threads are stripped that go into the body or the grease that rides in the helical gear at the top of the tube and bottom of the eyepiece interface that allows the focus is dried out to the point that the eyepiece is essentially frozen to the tube. Pat
 
On most of the later individual focus binoculars, the eyepiece tube that mounts to the body of the bino screws into the body with a clockwise turn of the tube till snug. If both the eyepiece and the tube move together either the bottom (tube) is loose, the threads are stripped that go into the body or the grease that rides in the helical gear at the top of the tube and bottom of the eyepiece interface that allows the focus is dried out to the point that the eyepiece is essentially frozen to the tube. Pat
I think I understand what you wrote although to be honest I'm not 100% sure. With these binoculars, on the side that works the bottom tube doesn't turn at all and only the upper part with the eyepiece turns. I would also like to clarify that I can hold the tube with my hand to stop it from turning when I turn the eyepiece, and yet even when I am turning just the eyepiece it still has no effect on the focus.
 
If this binocular has a similar internal structure to later bino's , I suspect that means the grease has given up the more flexible components of the grease leaving the helical focus unable to move. How ever the upper portion of the eyepiece casing is attached to the inner portion that comprises the section that houses the eyepiece elements must have come loose in the process of attempting to focus that side. Under the eyecup of a typical classical porro binocular are 3 small screws that lock the eyepiece collar to the inner section that comprises the optics of the eyepiece. It would appear that your particular bino might be of similar construction. I'd be very careful at this stage without further information as eyepiece cups are sometimes made of a plastic like material that turns brittle with age. It appears to have the eyecup that does seperate, but it's speculation on my part that the eyecup should unscrew and the method of the connection between the eyepiece collar and the inner section of the eyepiece might be revealed. There appears to be a line around the base of the eyecup that denotes the section of the cup that is a seperate element that may unscrew. A drop of a mild solvent or thin oil might works it's way along the separation, down onto the thread , poetentially allowing for an easier disassembly than trying to aplly greater force to break the 2 elements free. Applying some heat from a hair dryer or even a good soak in the noon day sun can soften some of the hardened grease allowing a better chance at making the separation. The trick will require holding the knurled diamond hatch focuser section stationary while attempting to turn the upper section eyecup to unscrew - try turning clockwise to see if it can be made to move as that is the most common way that the pieces are threaded together. Don't overpower the attempt as the eyecup may fracture under the load.
If you get that far , let me know.... I sure wish that someone with first hand knowledge of this binocular would respond as the actions you take can literally make or break the binocular!
 
If this binocular has a similar internal structure to later bino's , I suspect that means the grease has given up the more flexible components of the grease leaving the helical focus unable to move. How ever the upper portion of the eyepiece casing is attached to the inner portion that comprises the section that houses the eyepiece elements must have come loose in the process of attempting to focus that side. Under the eyecup of a typical classical porro binocular are 3 small screws that lock the eyepiece collar to the inner section that comprises the optics of the eyepiece. It would appear that your particular bino might be of similar construction. I'd be very careful at this stage without further information as eyepiece cups are sometimes made of a plastic like material that turns brittle with age. It appears to have the eyecup that does seperate, but it's speculation on my part that the eyecup should unscrew and the method of the connection between the eyepiece collar and the inner section of the eyepiece might be revealed. There appears to be a line around the base of the eyecup that denotes the section of the cup that is a seperate element that may unscrew. A drop of a mild solvent or thin oil might works it's way along the separation, down onto the thread , poetentially allowing for an easier disassembly than trying to aplly greater force to break the 2 elements free. Applying some heat from a hair dryer or even a good soak in the noon day sun can soften some of the hardened grease allowing a better chance at making the separation. The trick will require holding the knurled diamond hatch focuser section stationary while attempting to turn the upper section eyecup to unscrew - try turning clockwise to see if it can be made to move as that is the most common way that the pieces are threaded together. Don't overpower the attempt as the eyecup may fracture under the load.
If you get that far , let me know.... I sure wish that someone with first hand knowledge of this binocular would respond as the actions you take can literally make or break the binocular!
Thanks so much for the help. I will try. I also am waiting to hear back from Zeiss since earlier in this thread it was suggested that it looks like a Silvarem. When I sent them pictures, they noticed something that I missed. There are numbers engraved in the body which can easily be missed, but they probably knew where to look. So now I took a good look and with a bright light and a magnifying glass I could read the number and i sent it back to them. So let's see what they have to say.
 

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