Review of the Linet Imperial 7x35 WA 13.5 degree Porro Prism (1 Viewer)

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Wow! I got the Linet Imperial 7x35 13.5 degree WA. That has to be the best binocular I have ever bought for $250. I can't believe how immersive and real the view is. A 95 degree AFOV is way wider than anything around, including the NL and Nikon WX. I don't believe I have ever looked through a binocular that makes things look so real, especially with the big 3D view of the porro prism.

The edges start falling off at about 15% of the FOV, but it doesn't matter because the FOV is so huge you can't really see it all at once anyway. It is just like there are no binoculars between you and what you are looking at. The MIJ build quality of these is really remarkable also. The binoculars are pretty heavy at about 33 oz. but it is those huge prisms that give you the wonderful view.

A binocular like the NL gives you a view that is synthetic, pie plate flat and artificial compared to these. These may not have the high transmission of the newer roof prism binoculars, but with a 5 mm EP you don't need it because they are bright enough and eye placement is so easy and comfortable. More people should try these vintage WA binoculars, and then I don't think they would spend $3000 for the latest alpha roof.

 

[Canip]

These may not have the high transmission of the newer roof prism binoculars, but with a 5 mm EP you don't need it because they are bright enough

Ahh, transmission is irrelevant, just make the exit pupil large enough, then all is well. Dennis’ findings continue to amaze (I usually have him on „ignore“, but the title triggered my curiosity)

 

[Binocollector]

@[email protected]
Welcome to the EWA-enthusiast club! One of my favourite class of instruments. 7x35 and 8x30 EWAs.

 

[Paultricounty]

Wow! I got the Linet Imperial 7x35 13.5 degree WA. That has to be the best binocular I have ever bought for $250. I can't believe how immersive and real the view is. A 95 degree AFOV is way wider than anything around, including the NL and Nikon WX. I don't believe I have ever looked through a binocular that makes things look so real, especially with the big 3D view of the porro prism.

Lol, I guess old master Khan has a lot to learn. I hate to say i told you so, but I told you so.

The edges start falling off at about 15% of the FOV, but it doesn't matter because the FOV is so huge you can't really see it all at once anyway. It is just like there are no binoculars between you and what you are looking at. The MIJ build quality of these is really remarkable also. The binoculars are pretty heavy at about 33 oz. but it is those huge prisms that give you the wonderful view.

And think about , you don’t even have one of the best true vintage WF alphas, you playing in the mid level arena. Think Bushnell Rangmaster FPO, Kowa if you could find one and even the Tamron would blow the doors off the Linet, to borrow one of your phrases. There’s also the Swift Holiday/Panoramics all of which are so much sharper, brighter, much better on the edges and more neutral than the yellow/green you get with the Linet.

A binocular like the NL gives you a view that is synthetic, pie plate flat and artificial compared to these. These may not have the high transmission of the newer roof prism binoculars, but with a 5 mm EP you don't need it because they are bright enough and eye placement is so easy and comfortable. More people should try these vintage WA binoculars, and then I don't think they would spend $3000 for the latest alpha roof.

Are you saying the 50-60 year old SWF binoculars with violet coatings, and 70% transmission is better than the latest and greatest best birding binoculars in the world 😝.

 

[[email protected]]

@[email protected]
Welcome to the EWA-enthusiast club! One of my favourite class of instruments. 7x35 and 8x30 EWAs.

I honestly didn't know what I have been missing all these years. Forget the NL, SF and Nikon WX. I can get a 95 degree AFOV with fantastic 3D for $250!

 

[[email protected]]

Ahh, transmission is irrelevant, just make the exit pupil large enough, then all is well. Dennis’ findings continue to amaze (I usually have him on „ignore“, but the title triggered my curiosity)

Canip. I am amazed that you seem to overlook the fact that aperture makes way more difference than a few percentage points difference in transmission when it comes down to how bright a binocular is. Remember that a 42 mm binocular pulls in 70 % more light than a 32 mm, which can overcome a lot of difference in transmission. It is never too late in life to learn something new. If you put me on ignore, you will never learn anything!

 

[[email protected]]

Lol, I guess old master Khan has a lot to learn. I hate to say i told you so, but I told you so.

And think about , you don’t even have one of the best true vintage WF alphas, you playing in the mid level arena. Think Bushnell Rangmaster FPO, Kowa if you could find one and even the Tamron would blow the doors off the Linet, to borrow one of your phrases. There’s also the Swift Holiday/Panoramics all of which are so much sharper, brighter, much better on the edges and more neutral than the yellow/green you get with the Linet.

Are you saying the 50-60 year old SWF binoculars with violet coatings, and 70% transmission is better than the latest and greatest best birding binoculars in the world 😝.

I am going to start looking for some of these vintage porros. The Linet really surprised me how good they are, and you are saying there are some that are even better! The Linet is king of WA though and that is what impresses me about it. Name another WA porro that has a 13.5 degree FOV. Yes, I am saying the vintage porros are better in many ways than the latest alphas like the NL. Even with the lower transmission, I would bet the Swift Audubon 804 8.5x44 is brighter than the NL 8x32 because the Swift is going to pull in almost 80% more light through that bigger aperture than that puny 32 mm.

The NL compared to the vintage porros is way less "real" IMO. It has a pie plate flat image that seems like it has been sliced and diced to perfection, but it doesn't look real. You can tell the image has been processed by god's knows how many lenses. That is the first thing I notice about the Linet. I said to myself "My god this is like you are not even looking through a binocular, every thing is so real".

The 3D stereopsis image of the Linet seems so natural and relaxed it is hard to describe, and it doesn't hurt that it has a 95 degree AFOV which makes the NL look like a soda straw. The violet coatings work quite well. It may not be as pure white as an NL, but it is not objectionable.

These big vintage porros are as heavy as an NL 8x42, but they don't feel it when you put them up to your eyes because they are short and wide and the weight is carried forward like a Zeiss SF and because they are wide the weight is better distributed on your brow. They are also quite comfortable to hold.

 

[[email protected]]

@[email protected]
Welcome to the EWA-enthusiast club! One of my favourite class of instruments. 7x35 and 8x30 EWAs.

Which ones do you like the best? I know you have a big collection and compare them all the time.

 

[Binocollector]

From the wide angles I have, my JB-22, 12°, 7x35 with BaK4 prisms is probably the best, even though it has severe field curvature. But I used it the other night for stargazing and it felt like a spacewalk. It's not one of those that are considered "the best" of the vintage EWAs.
I do also like the little 8x30, 10° models. Of those I have quite a few. So far the best is a JB-89, "Luna Super" that was sold by Eschenbach. I have 3 of those "Luna Super" but only two were made by the same Japanese company.
I have one with those dreaded yellow coatings but it is in fact not bad, the blueish tint disappears to my eyes after a few seconds of using it. And it is quite a bit brighter than the "UV"-coated ones.
But I have another 8x30, 10° model incoming. This one is JB-207. I like those 8x30s for birding and daytime use, while the 7x35s work pretty well at night for "milky way surfing".
Unfortunately I never came across anything wider than those 12° on German ebay. Those extreme wide angle models of 13° and above were never sold here, I think. And shipping from the US is often very expensive.
Some other great EWAs are the skeleton binos with 11.5° in 6x25. And I have the Komz 6x24, which I think also has around 11.5 or 12° FoV. That one is also rather nice. Better coatings than most of my Japanese porros. Even the prisms are coated.

 

[Paultricounty]

I am going to start looking for some of these vintage porros. The Linet really surprised me how good they are, and you are saying there are some that are even better! The Linet is king of WA though and that is what impresses me about it. Name another WA porro that has a 13.5 degree FOV. Yes, I am saying the vintage porros are better in many ways than the latest alphas like the NL. Even with the lower transmission, I would bet the Swift Audubon 804 8.5x44 is brighter than the NL 8x32 because the Swift is going to pull in almost 80% more light through that bigger aperture than that puny 32 mm.

The Tasco 110 (and I believe the 410), Sans & Streiffe 998 & 999 all far superior to the Linet, and almost every category optically. There’s a Sears model as well , and a few others I can’t think of right now I’ll check when I get home. I’ll also ad that some of the 10 and 11 degree high end optics are better becasue less distortion and bigger sweet spot. The 10° range Masters have 10° and it’s literally almost shot to the edge. No , the Swift Audubon is not brighter than any of the top alphas.

The NL compared to the vintage porros is way less "real" IMO. It has a pie plate flat image that seems like it has been sliced and diced to perfection, but it doesn't look real. You can tell the image has been processed by god's knows how many lenses. That is the first thing I notice about the Linet. I said to myself "My god this is like you are not even looking through a binocular, every thing is so real".

NL, SF, EL , less real idk about that. it is true that when you look through the super wide angle binoculars it’s not like looking through a modern day binocular, roof or Porro where you see the black field stop. On some of these SWA there is no field stop , there’s almost no image circle. It’s like looking through a glass window magnified seven times. The real part is a little bit more convoluted, because you’re getting a great depth of field with the 7X, but you’re also getting an usually big three dimensionality, though very unique for sure, that’s not very true to the unaided eye.

The 3D stereopsis image of the Linet seems so natural and relaxed it is hard to describe, and it doesn't hurt that it has a 95 degree AFOV which makes the NL look like a soda straw. The violet coatings work quite well. It may not be as pure white as an NL, but it is not objectionable.

Thats highly debatable, it’s one of the main pitfalls and reasons these turn some people off. Not so much with the better ones though, which can be very neutral. These certainly do have a very unique image characteristic different than anything we are used to over the last 30 years. The wow factor is always present the minute you look through them.

These big vintage porros are as heavy as an NL 8x42, but they don't feel it when you put them up to your eyes because they are short and wide and the weight is carried forward like a Zeiss SF and because they are wide the weight is better distributed on your brow. They are also quite comfortable to hold.

 

[[email protected]]

From the wide angles I have, my JB-22, 12°, 7x35 with BaK4 prisms is probably the best, even though it has severe field curvature. But I used it the other night for stargazing and it felt like a spacewalk. It's not one of those that are considered "the best" of the vintage EWAs.
I do also like the little 8x30, 10° models. Of those I have quite a few. So far the best is a JB-89, "Luna Super" that was sold by Eschenbach. I have 3 of those "Luna Super" but only two were made by the same Japanese company.
I have one with those dreaded yellow coatings but it is in fact not bad, the blueish tint disappears to my eyes after a few seconds of using it. And it is quite a bit brighter than the "UV"-coated ones.
But I have another 8x30, 10° model incoming. This one is JB-207. I like those 8x30s for birding and daytime use, while the 7x35s work pretty well at night for "milky way surfing".
Unfortunately I never came across anything wider than those 12° on German ebay. Those extreme wide angle models of 13° and above were never sold here, I think. And shipping from the US is often very expensive.
Some other great EWAs are the skeleton binos with 11.5° in 6x25. And I have the Komz 6x24, which I think also has around 11.5 or 12° FoV. That one is also rather nice. Better coatings than most of my Japanese porros. Even the prisms are coated.

Thanks a lot! I will be on the lookout for those.

 

[[email protected]]

The Tasco 110 (and I believe the 410), Sans & Streiffe 998 & 999 all far superior to the Linet, and almost every category optically. There’s a Sears model as well , and a few others I can’t think of right now I’ll check when I get home. I’ll also ad that some of the 10 and 11 degree high end optics are better becasue less distortion and bigger sweet spot. The 10° range Masters have 10° and it’s literally almost shot to the edge. No , the Swift Audubon is not brighter than any of the top alphas.

NL, SF, EL , less real idk about that. it is true that when you look through the super wide angle binoculars it’s not like looking through a modern day binocular, roof or Porro where you see the black field stop. On some of these SWA there is no field stop , there’s almost no image circle. It’s like looking through a glass window magnified seven times. The real part is a little bit more convoluted, because you’re getting a great depth of field with the 7X, but you’re also getting an usually big three dimensionality, though very unique for sure, that’s not very true to the unaided eye.

Thats highly debatable, it’s one of the main pitfalls and reasons these turn some people off. Not so much with the better ones though, which can be very neutral. These certainly do have a very unique image characteristic different than anything we are used to over the last 30 years. The wow factor is always present the minute you look through them.

"It’s like looking through a glass window magnified seven times." Exactly. That is what the Linet seems like. Thanks for the tips on the other vintage binoculars. I am going to keep my eyes open for them. I would imagine those models with a slightly smaller FOV are going to have better edges and less field curvature. Both the Linet and the Audubon are sweet, though. I really like them.

 

[Binocollector]

I would imagine those models with a slightly smaller FOV are going to have better edges and less field curvature.

Definitely. However the FoV on which I can see a sharp field stop is around the same that a Nikon Action EX 7x35 has -- and that one has 9.3°. I have a Tasco #116 with supposedly 10.5° in which I can see the fieldstop and it's not fuzzy but it doesn't really seem wider than the Nikon. So on some of those the FoV clearly is overstated. Or the FoV on the Nikon Action EX 7x35 is larger than stated. I think Nikon uses the ISO norm to calculate FoV. There are also differences of course between models with the same specifications. I have two 7x35 with 11° but one of them is clearly better. It's a JB-113.
There are also relatively modern 10°, 8x30 models. I have one made by Kamakura and also sold as "Eschenbach" here in Germany. It has relatively modern coatings. Unfortunately on mine one of the prisms has slightly moved. The cement that fixed it has cracked. I have not fixed that yet.

 

[[email protected]]

Definitely. However the FoV on which I can see a sharp field stop is around the same that a Nikon Action EX 7x35 has -- and that one has 9.3°. I have a Tasco #116 with supposedly 10.5° in which I can see the fieldstop and it's not fuzzy but it doesn't really seem wider than the Nikon. So on some of those the FoV clearly is overstated. Or the FoV on the Nikon Action EX 7x35 is larger than stated. I think Nikon uses the ISO norm to calculate FoV. There are also differences of course between models with the same specifications. I have two 7x35 with 11° but one of them is clearly better. It's a JB-113.
There are also relatively modern 10°, 8x30 models. I have one made by Kamakura and also sold as "Eschenbach" here in Germany. It has relatively modern coatings. Unfortunately on mine one of the prisms has slightly moved. The cement that fixed it has cracked. I have not fixed that yet.

You know how to repair them yourself? That would be really helpful. What I don't get is everybody thinks a Nikon E2 8x30 is one of the best porros, yet something like the vintage Linet 7x35 is way better IMO for 1/2 the price and the build quality on these older MIJ porros is just excellent. I would imagine the older porros are easier to work on.

 

[Binocollector]

@[email protected]
Some are easier to work on than others. I like the German brand "Hartmann" for example. On those the prisms can be adjusted without even taking them apart. But most of the time they have hazy prisms, so I have to take them apart anyway. Still, the prism adjustment on these is genius. And the prisms aren't cemented.
Most of the time, a simple adjustment of the eccentric rings that move the objectives are all that's needed to fix alignment. When I'm lucky, it even works at every IPD setting when I'm done. Or at least close enough.
You don't need much equipment. A few screwdrivers and a "lense wrench" are the most important tools.
I'd say about 30 % of old porros I bought had some alignment issues.
But the one-piece (B&L) body models seem to be more robust than the Zeiss body models.

 

[[email protected]]

@[email protected]
Some are easier to work on than others. I like the German brand "Hartmann" for example. On those the prisms can be adjusted without even taking them apart. But most of the time they have hazy prisms, so I have to take them apart anyway. Still, the prism adjustment on these is genius. And the prisms aren't cemented.
Most of the time, a simple adjustment of the eccentric rings that move the objectives are all that's needed to fix alignment. When I'm lucky, it even works at every IPD setting when I'm done. Or at least close enough.
You don't need much equipment. A few screwdrivers and a "lense wrench" are the most important tools.
I'd say about 30 % of old porros I bought had some alignment issues.
But the one-piece (B&L) body models seem to be more robust than the Zeiss body models.

Interesting about the Hartman being adjustable. I am glad my Linet's and Swift's were in good alignment when I received them. Is there any other vintage porro that has the extreme WA like the Linet's 13.5 degree FOV?

 

[Paultricounty]

Interesting about the Hartman being adjustable. I am glad my Linet's and Swift's were in good alignment when I received them. Is there any other vintage porro that has the extreme WA like the Linet's 13.5 degree FOV?

Read post #10.

 

[Paultricounty]

Heres one far better than the Linet. Very neutral in color, sharper, better edge and brighter.

 

[CharleyBird]

So Denco, you say the Linet Imperial 7x35:

Are sharp only for about 15% in the centre
Have violet coatings
May not be as pure white as an NL
Transmission of only 70%
Are 33oz, heavier than NL
In comparison the NL gives you a view that is synthetic, pie plate flat and artificial compared to these
Are only $250

And so you write:
"Forget the NL, SF"

Piffle😄
Your faddiness is unsurpassed

 

[Paultricounty]

So Denco, you say the Linet Imperial 7x35:

Are sharp only for about 15% in the centre
Have violet coatings
May not be as pure white as an NL
Transmission of only 70%
Are 33oz, heavier than NL
In comparison the NL gives you a view that is synthetic, pie plate flat and artificial compared to these
Are only $250

And so you write:
"Forget the NL, SF"

Piffle😄
Your faddiness is unsurpassed

Lol , and here I was engaging with him thinking he believed his own dribble. I’m humbled by your pointedness.