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Southern African Forum (18 Viewers)

Garden Route Birding 3

2. River Gorge Trails

As before……

Note: Birds in heavy type were seen on this trip – others mentioned have been seen on previous visits.

BRUSH UP YOUR BIRD CALLS! They will really help you in forested areas.

Brown-hooded Kingfisher Trail

An easy ±4 km walk through a pretty gorge carved out by the Duiwe Rivier, this trail is one-way only, i.e. you have to return the same way. The trail begins at a tight bend in the road, just as it crosses a drift in the Duiwe Rivier. The Duiwe, more of a trickling stream than a river, tinkles along the floor of its gorge through densely vegetated slopes full of birds. Knowledge of bird calls will be of great assistance here – the call is often your only signpost to the bird’s whereabouts. I have found this little trail to be particularly good for Knysna Turacos, which glide on crimson wings from one side of the gorge to the other. Listen for the tiny scufflings and muted contact calls of the Terrrestrial Bulbuls as they forage among the leaf litter, and the bright cheerful “Willie!” of the Sombre Greenbul. I have seen Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler here, and achieved my first-ever sighting of a Knysna Warbler in the thick undergrowth. Just for a laugh I have attached a photograph of that bird, in that very thicket on the Brown-hooded Kingfisher Trail, just so you can see what you are up against. Their song is a dead giveaway – “chip, chip, chip, chip-chip-chip, chip-chip-chip-chip-CHRRRRRRRRRRR!! A series of slowly-accelerating “chips” culminate in a surprisingly loud machine-gun-like rattle. But beware – even when singing right next to you in the thickets he can be next to invisible.
Pairs of White-necked Ravens patrol the gorge, and the calls of Cape Robin, Black-headed Oriole, and Southern Boubou can be heard on every side. Note also that on the road at the start of the trail, flowers in hedges and along the stream may attract a variety of sunbirds.

Click on the link below to find the start of the Brown-hooded Kingfisher Trail (circled).

NOTE: When your map has finished loading, click on the little arrow half-way up the left-hand margin to open it up.

http://www.multimap.com/s/wUdzBTu8

Half-collared Kingfisher Trail

On the way to the start of this trail we came across an unexpected African Harrier Hawk (you can the see the white stripe across its tail in the photograph, honest) which was harassing a tree-top colony of Grey Herons before flying off across the reedbeds.

This trail begins at the combined road/rail bridge over the Touw River. Again a one-way trail, the distance there and back is around 7km, but there is no necessity to walk all the way to the end if you do not wish to. There are river-side picnic spots along this trail, so if you want to take sandwiches or a flask of coffee, you are welcome. Note that while the trail is not hard, there is a tricky spot near the start which means climbing and descending some fairly steep steps.
The habitat is similar to, but more forested than, the Brown-hooded Kingfisher Trail, and the Touw is a genuine river, very different from the small stream of the Duiwe Rivier. You can, should you so wish, canoe up the river instead, which can be a fine way of seeing the birds. Reed Cormorants and Little Grebes patrol the river, and we had fine views of Malachite and the eponymous Half-collared Kingfishers. Somewhat to my surprise, I managed by whistling to call up a Black-headed Oriole which had been calling some distance away.
While we were there the local bird folk and Wilderness National Park were running a 5-day birding programme in the area, and we met several of the participants on the trail. And I’ll let you into a secret. That very morning the early risers had spotted a juvenile African Finfoot in the Touw River. I learnt subsequently that finfoot are fairly regularly seen in the Kaaiman’s River, just on the George side of Wilderness. It seems likely therefore, that finfoot could be found in any of the rivers tumbling down from the Outeniqua Mountains towards the sea.
A pair of Fish Eagles, madly in love, spent the afternoon soaring, calling and canoodling from the heights above the gorge. A Knysna Warbler, calling obligingly near the little pont used to cross the river, remained stubbornly invisible to a succession of desperate birders trying to spot him. Knysna Turacos glided across the narrow gorge, crashing alarmingly into the trees above our heads. Tiny Dusky Flycatchers, and even smaller Cape White-eyes, foraged in the gloom of the forest, while noisy Bar-throated Apalis called loudly from tangled clumps of undergrowth. Somewhere hidden in the trees a woodpecker hammered on a hollow stump.Yellow-green striped Forest Canaries uttered tiny contact squeaks from bracken thickets. For a while we sat on the river bank watching a Half-collared Kingfisher commuting up and down the river, on each return flight bearing a tiny fish in its beak. It no doubt had a nest upstream from where we were sitting. Note that the photo of the Half-collared Kingfisher was taken at anothe time and at Swartvlei Lake....this one on the Touw River wouldn't sit still for a single second.

Permits should be sought for those trails from the National Parks Office in the Ebb & Flow campsite, close to the start of the Half-collared Kingfisher Trail.

Click on the link to find a map in which the circle indicates the start of the Half-collared Kingfisher Trail and the Ebb & Flow offices.

http://www.multimap.com/s/vXc68VkA

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy
 

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Great stuff Dave, I so want to go there! I can see the white bar in the African Harrier-Hawk's tail quite well, and I love the pic of the Sombre Greenbul, it is not easy to get a close up of these. Lots of useful information too, thanks for that.
 
Hi
I shall be in SA from the 29th October for 15 days....have to say I am a little worried by the reports(above) of the very dry weather some of you are reporting...havent seen any of this reported in the UK...(but then I suppose credit crises and all that!)

so whats the info? I shall be in the Kruger - staying at Letaba, Satara (two nights each) and Pretoriuskop Camps(one night)....
has the wildlife suffered badly from the drought?

Must say I am very excited to be visiting SA and seeing all those wonderful birds (trying to learn as many by watching videos!)
 
Hi
I shall be in SA from the 29th October for 15 days....have to say I am a little worried by the reports(above) of the very dry weather some of you are reporting...havent seen any of this reported in the UK...(but then I suppose credit crises and all that!)

so whats the info? I shall be in the Kruger - staying at Letaba, Satara (two nights each) and Pretoriuskop Camps(one night)....
has the wildlife suffered badly from the drought?

Hi there!

To a large extent drought is part of the natural order of things in Southern Africa. The wildlife, both plant and animal, is well equipped to deal with it. Sometimes animals die, but that simply creates space for the new ones which will be born when the lush green times come again. It can even improve game viewing, for the animals will of necessity have to stay close to sources of water.

I am sure you will have a great time, and from a birding point of view you are coming when the migrants have returned and everyone is breeding frantically. In 5 days you should crack 150 species easily.....see how many more you can get and let us know. Letaba Camp, which has splendid river frontage, is great for birding - an early morning walk round the camp should yield lots of sightings. In the evening and at night listen for nightjars, and the "Prrrp!" call of the African Scops-owl. If you're careful you may be able to track him down from his call and get really close to him. The habitat round Letaba is mostly mopane-veld, but as you go down towards Satara you will encounter mixed thornveld and savannah, as well as some fairly open plains. A good route to follow from Letaba to Satara is along the Timbavati Loop to the west of the main road. Pretoriuskop is set amidst granite hills, and offers good raptor sightings.

Watch your travelling times in the Park - they can be deceptive, for although the speed limit is 50 kph on tar and 40 kph on dirt - to protect the animals, not the humans - a couple of good sightings can take an hour out of your available journey time before you know it.

Good luck, and we look forward to reading a report of your sightings.

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy
 
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Hi
I shall be in SA from the 29th October for 15 days....have to say I am a little worried by the reports(above) of the very dry weather some of you are reporting...havent seen any of this reported in the UK...(but then I suppose credit crises and all that!)

so whats the info? I shall be in the Kruger - staying at Letaba, Satara (two nights each) and Pretoriuskop Camps(one night)....
has the wildlife suffered badly from the drought?

Must say I am very excited to be visiting SA and seeing all those wonderful birds (trying to learn as many by watching videos!)

To add to what Dave has said, remember that in Kruger Park there are artificial waterholes so that in the dry season (our winter for KNP) there is still water available. We are always hungry for rain after the winter and in fact the rainy season has already started to some extent, which means that by the time you get here, the wildflowers may have begun to appear and where the veld has been burnt there will probably be green grass. (I have seen rain falling on the Satara webcam recently).The trees are all bursting into leaf and there will be plenty of food around.You may be lucky and see quite a few babies of various species too. So I don't think you have anything to worry about. I'm sure you will have a wonderful time and will see lots of birds. Stop at all the dams and waterholes and allow yourself enough time to do this. Look forward to a report-back!
 
Hey nice work Dave. When we visited SA earlier this year we didn't have a great deal of time around Wilderness so missed a few birds. Just to add to your great description of the lakes, on the easterly lake we had great views of African rail amongst others, however the highlight came from the middle hide where we got cracking views of Red-chested flufftail about halfway along the boardwalk, about 20cm back into the reeds. In fact we heard a few of them calling, quite late in the afternoon.
Cheers,
Damien
 
Hey nice work Dave. When we visited SA earlier this year we didn't have a great deal of time around Wilderness so missed a few birds. Just to add to your great description of the lakes, on the easterly lake we had great views of African rail amongst others, however the highlight came from the middle hide where we got cracking views of Red-chested flufftail about halfway along the boardwalk, about 20cm back into the reeds. In fact we heard a few of them calling, quite late in the afternoon.
Cheers,
Damien

Congratulations, Damien, that's a sighting many would kill for. I have yet - in 37 years of trying - to see a flufftail. I've been every year since 1976 to the Lakes/Sedgefield area, so it's not for lack of trying.

Best wishes,
Dave
 
Thanks Dave and Sal - bit of overreaction from me then!

Thanks for the reassurance!

I have wanted to do a safari since I was a teenager and taken me all this time to be able to go! (Have to say I wouldn't go to SA while the apartheid was ruling.But still taken a long time to get there...so many places to see so little time as they say!)

But the birds come first...but I am also really looking forward to seeing any wild animals....I will not say which I would love as I daren't put the mockers on it or them! I am sure you can guess!

But as for the birds - well the Raptors are way up there as are the Hornbills and Dikkops and the Rollers and the Beeaters .......no point getting started as I will be here all night! oh Ostrich (a real wild one!)

I would also like to see one or two of our migrants - the reality of how far they have flown will hit home after i have flown there overnight!

I am looking forward to seeing the other areas we are traveling to Mkuzu Game Reserve and St Lucia Wetlands and then over to the Drakensburg Mountains. We are travelling through really different scenery.

In fact as I write I cant wait!
I'm off to my videos! (will have a pause while England play Byelarus)

Will report back on my return!
 
Thanks Dave and Sal - bit of overreaction from me then!

Not at all. I would feel exactly the same if I were going to a country that I had never visited and read these things! Very wise of you to check it out I think. You should see PLENTY of Hornbills in Kruger. They are everywhere! Keep an eye on the skies for Bateleurs - look for long slender wings making 180degree line in the sky, curving trailed edge and no tail worth mentioning, they are one of the easiest to spot in flight. There will, I'm sure, be Tawny Eagles, Brown Snake Eagles, Fish Eagles perched here and there, and I'm sure you will be lucky enough to see various other raptors! Rollers and Bee-eaters too. If you have the time, travel along the river road between Skukuza and Lower Sabie - always bee-eaters there. About seven km short of Lower Sabie is a view site with a steep bank facing the road. White-fronted Bee-eaters have holes here.
The mammals you most want to see are in the greatest concentrations in the Satara area!!!

Mkuzi is a wonderful place for birds. Make sure you go to the various hides. I haven't been there for a few years now but they used to have a bird walk that you could book onto - took a couple of hours or so, very well worth it as the guides really knew their stuff. Keep an eye open for the Twinspots!

St Lucia -also great. You really have chosen a wonderful collection of places to visit, so different, I bet you go back with a great bird list. I dont know which area of the Drakensberg you are visiting or how long you are staying, but if you end up near Spionkop Nature Reserve, it might be worth spending a morning there if you can get there reasonably early (see my bird list from a day visit earlier in this thread).

Have a great time!
 
Thanks Dave and Sal for putting my mind at ease! The tour company has also confirmed no problems with the current itinerary, although others have said that some smog has cut down the available light in the afternoons so I will wait and see.

16 days to go!

All the best!

Jo
 
But the birds come first...but I am also really looking forward to seeing any wild animals....I will not say which I would love as I daren't put the mockers on it or them! I am sure you can guess!

I'm just back from two weeks in SA (will write up report when I get the chance - and after some identifications) and went into Kruger 5 times.

The best place to see game at the moment is on the road from the Lower Sabie restcamp to the Nkuhlu picnic sight - had 5 sightings of Lion there on 1 day, as well as plenty of Elephant. There are often sightings of Leopard along this stretch as well. The animals are concentrated here by the Sabie river due to the drought. This could change of course if the rains come early (hope so - it's really needed).
You should see a lot of vultures (mainly White-backed, but also Cape, Hooded and Lappet). There are also plenty of hornbills about - yellow, red and a lot of grey. Keep an eye open for the Southern Ground hornbill as well - amazing creatures.
Raptor numbers were good as well - the only problem is identifying them :-O As Sal says you should spot Bataleur - stunning bird.
Have a fantastic time - I always do :t:
Allan
 
Garden Route Birding 4

3. Robberg

Plettenberg Bay lies around 55 km east of Sedgefield. At the western end of Plett’s half-heart bay lies the long peninsula of Robberg, which protects the bay from the worst of the southerly winds, and may well be the reason for its popularity with Southern Right Whales which, from June to November, and even at other times of year, are frequently to be found here. Take the airport road out of Plett for 8 or 9 kms, and turn off to your left at the signpost for Robberg.

There are many reasons to visit Robberg. It is an excellent example of Coastal Fynbos, with a myriad of plant species to investigate and identify. There are wonderful hikes, ranging from modest to a real slog requiring careful attention to state of the tide. Great caves penetrate Robberg’s impressive cliffs. From these caves has come evidence of some of South Africa’s earliest inhabitants. Seals abound – ‘Robberg’, after all means Seal Mountain. Dolphin play in the waves, and if you are lucky great sharks may be seen patrolling the base of the precipitous cliffs, a reminder, if ever there was one, not to lose your footing on the hazardous paths. Mighty conglomerates tell the story of how, 140 million years ago, Gondwanaland was ripped apart……..and most importantly, Robberg is one of the best places to see that fynbos special, the Orange-breasted Sunbird.

On reaching the start of the peninsula you will come to the barrier delimiting the start of the Robberg Nature Reserve. The R20 per person admission fee is a small price to pay for the delights that wait within. Don’t forget to collect at the gate the trails map and whatever environmental information they may have. Some little way beyond the gate is a car park, with picnic facilites, toilets, and a splendid little information centre. Learn what you can in there, and then go out and revel in the view. Go and look out to the south, where you will see an island joined to Robberg’s south shore by an hourglass-shaped sandspit. This rare and unusual feature is known as a Tombolo, and is caused by waves refracting round both ends of the island, resulting in the deposition of the aforementioned sandspit. Each side of the spit therefore represents the mathematical expression of a refracted wave. Now a really odd thing happens. The prevailing southerlies blow the sand from the spit up and over Robberg, creating a hanging dune on the spine of the peninsula. Sand from this active dune is finally blown right over Robberg, to plunge down over the northern cliffs back into the sea.

Decide on which hike you will do, and make sure you have adequate water and anything else you may require. Once beyond the car park there are no facilities at all.

All hikes begin along the northern (Plettenberg Bay) side of the Peninsula. Signposts depicting Cape Fur Seals serve as markers.The shortest hike is a 2km round trip as far as the Gap and back. The Gap is just that, a great gouge out of the peninsula as if someone had begun to cut the peninsula in half and then changed their mind. The climb back out of the Gap is steep, and requires care. Once at the top of the Gap, a path along the south of the peninsula leads back to the car park.

The full trail takes you out along the northern flank of the peninsula, past some precipitous cliffs, then right to the end of the peninsula, returning along the southern side. The initial stages of the return journey are difficult, and not a little risky, and you should be aware of tide times so that you can negotiate this stretch at low tide. The route then takes you past the island, and the great Strandloper caves, up the Gap, and back to the car park. If you can’t face the full circuit, take a short cut by turning right at the hanging dune and follow the sand back down to the Island, and thence back to the car park. **NOTE** It is dangerous to turn LEFT at the hanging dune as the top of this plume of sand is unstable over a sheer rock fall to the sea. A fourth alternative is to walk to the Island and back. If you have access to Google Earth, key in ‘Knysna, South Africa’ and work your way east to Robberg. You can’t miss it – it’s the only large peninsula around. Most of the details described can be easily seen in the satellite view.

So what might you see at Robberg? Well, Orange-breasted Sunbird is the number one target. Greater and Southern Double-collared Sunbirds also exploit the fynbos, as do Cape Robin, Bar-throated Apalis, Karoo Prinia, Cape Wagtail, Cape White-eye, Cape Bulbul, Sombre Greenbul, Cape Rock Thrush, Red-winged Starling, Cape Batis, Speckled Mousebird and Southern Boubou. If you’re really lucky, and watch very carefully, you might find a Ground Woodpecker, looking like a small pink penguin, peering round a rock at you. Victorin’s Warbler has also been reported here, although I have never managed to see one. Cape Gull, African Black Oystercatcher, and Swift Tern are frequent, Caspian Tern less so. Should you choose a day when the wind howls in from the south – and if you do, please watch out for the more treacherous areas on the trails – there is a fair chance of picking up a pelagic species seeking shelter. Among those recorded are Shy Albatross, White-chinned Petrel, and Parasitic Jaeger. During this trip I saw a Sub-Antarctic Skua at Keurboomstrand, just across the bay, so I should think they would feature at Robberg also.

The attached photographs show one of many intriguing rock formations, the trail along the eastern slopes leading to the Gap, the island and its sandspit tombolo, and two shots of the most obliging wee Orange-breasted Sunbird it has ever been my pleasure to meet.

Apart from anything else, Robberg is surpassingly beautiful, and worth visiting on that account alone. Southern Right Whales are frequently seen, and dolphins and Cape Fur Seals play in the waves. The flowers in spring and summer are breathtaking, and the view across broad Plettenberg Bay to the Tsitsikamma Mountains superb.

It remains one of my favourite places.

Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy
 

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Hi Dryocopus,

Just wanted to add that I drove from berg en dal to orpen last month and it rained the whole way, so the park has had some rain. Also that it is not so much a lack of water that is killing animals but a lack of food. The big places like Kruger weather these draughts well as the animals are free to move over vast areas that incompass different conditions. Their animal numbers are also much more naturally balanced due to the predetors in the park.
The problems lay in smaller reserves like the one I live on and the mentioned Marloth Park. These places are often over stocked with herbivores and have no large predetors to keep numbers in check. The managment then have to control numbers with selling game or culling. There is no natural dispersal off the farm in lean years, due to fences.
Draught is natural in the area, animal mortality due to starvation is natural, what isn't natural is the amount of deaths of impala on our farm, for instance,as the animals are very over stocked and they can't escape the farm to find food.
I live north of the olifants river and it is always a very dry area. We need to take off 400 impala, but every time the game capture guys come the impala split into groups of 10 or so and it is not cost effective for the helicopters to fly around finding them. So every attempt has been aborted. Last try they caught 15 impala and 11 died that night as they were in such poor condition. We can now only hope they make it till the rains as we cannot try game capture till next april as the season has ended.
I am sure that your trip to Kruger will find healthy fat animals, I know thats all I saw last month, and the birds will be astounding as ever. The parts of the park you are visiting are known to have higher rainfall. I really don't believe that you will see much sign of starvation down there.
One good thing about the probs on our farm is that we have very fat vultures and I have seen cape, white backed, hooded, lappet and white headed feeding. Not to mention, bateleurs, tawneys ect. So its all a great circle, somethings suffer some gain.
Just yesterday the farm gained three of krugers elephants, they make their way up the olifants river looking for food and have spent two days recking our trees before moving on.
Enjoy your visit to SA its a wonderful diverse place.
 

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Dave,
Thanks for the reports that you have given, they really are fantastic and i store them all up for future holidays.
Where next

Lulie
 
Woke up this morning to the sweetest sound of birds all singing at the top of their voices. Wasn't sure exactly what had brought this on but one look out the window and all was reveiled. RAIN! we finally had lovely wet dripping rain. Ok it was only 6mm but its all going to help.
The mocking cliff chats and the white throated robin chats are particularly animated this morning.

Never thought I would be so pleased to see rain Lulie
 
Dave,
Thanks for the reports that you have given, they really are fantastic and i store them all up for future holidays.
Where next

Lulie

Many thanks, Lulie, for these kind words.

We also had our first rain last night - a whole 5mm, but we awoke to a morning refreshed, and the air clean and dust-free.

Best wishes,
Dave

PS - just had our first Golden-tailed Woodpecker in the garden....perhaps in celebration for the rain!
 
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Dave , Sal, lulie and Allan

Thank you all for your replies.
Glad that it has started to rain for the areas that need it!

Really looking forward to my trip and I'd just like to say how very friendly the members are of this thread! I feel all cared for!

A friend of mine has a lovely photo of a adult male Bateleur and his (son?) juvenile with their feet in the water of a river. In the Kruger. It looks like father is showing son how to keep cool in the heat (it was August).I have yet to see another photo showing this - is this usual behaviour?
 
Hello,

I don't know about fathers showing sons but I have seen bateleurs and tawnys paddling in the shallows. They could be cooling off, but could also be looking for a hopeful tit bit to float by as both these raptors aren't too fussy what they eat.
Just recently I watched a bateleur and a tawney standing in the dam near phalaborwa gate, Kruger. They stood still for about 20 mins before the bateleur flew off. The tawny then took off and flew straight at a steenbok who was drinking on the opposite bank. The steenbok darted away at the last min and the tawny thumped to the ground. Amazingly it took off and had another go. It was so half hearted the steenbok just looked at the tawny as if it was stupid, before stepping aside and walking off. It was a very hot day and noone could really be bothered to do anything.

At the rehab I used to work at, the martial eagles used to stand in their water troughs to cool off sometimes spending the best part of an hour in them.

Have fun
Lulie
 
A friend of mine has a lovely photo of a adult male Bateleur and his (son?) juvenile with their feet in the water of a river. In the Kruger. It looks like father is showing son how to keep cool in the heat (it was August).I have yet to see another photo showing this - is this usual behaviour?

Hi Dryocopus, just for interest, see the pics below, taken at Hluhluwe game reserve in KwaZulu Natal earlier this year. Sorry, not very good , but we couldn't get out of the car! We watched these guys in the river for about half an hour!
 

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3. Robberg
Apart from anything else, Robberg is surpassingly beautiful, and worth visiting on that account alone. Southern Right Whales are frequently seen, and dolphins and Cape Fur Seals play in the waves. The flowers in spring and summer are breathtaking, and the view across broad Plettenberg Bay to the Tsitsikamma Mountains superb.

Hi Dave Thanks for another great description with lots of helpful tips. You have persuaded me that this is a place I have to visit when I get down south, it really sounds amazing. I will make sure that I have all your info and advice with me too. Love the pics of the obliging Orange-breasted Sunbird - I have never seen one.
 
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