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Why so many alphas returned for adjustment? (1 Viewer)

John Dracon

John Dracon
Reviewing the many posts over the years, I'm struck by the increasing number of comments about binoculars being returned for this or that to the factory for correction. One would expect that from modestly priced binoculars. But from the alphas, no.

Most seem to mention focusing issues that center on (1) diopter movement when repeated focusing takes place or (2) on balky or sticky focusing knobs, or (3) too slow or too fast focusing itself. Most of these relate to roof binoculars, and in particular, the open bridge models popularized by Swarovski.

Is it possible that the mechanical linkages of open bridge roofs are a real challenge to the mechanical engineers of today to make right? Since I am approaching fossil stage in life, I run into 50 year old Bushnell Customs all the time which have been used hard and cosmetically awful. Yet they are in alignment, focus without any problems, and totally useful, etc.

For the price of the alphas, one would expect absolute reliability. Why isn't this happening?
John
 
Over expectations I think. The quest for perfection: For a perfection that fits ones own personal preferences.

It seems that most of these imperfections, particularly with Swarovski, can be fixed easily. In a sense, the binocular is returned for some custom adjustment; this seems particularly so in the case of Swarovski, especially with their SLC range. It is almost as if Swarovski expects to have to do this. The cost of these repairs is probably factored into the wholesale price.

The demand by high end purchasers for the newest technology is also a factor.

It is debatable whether combining the mechanisms of focusing and setting the diopter into one mechanical focus wheel is a good idea IMO. The only manufacturer who has one that is both reliable and convenient is Swarovski with it's push in and set procedure. It is possible with these to "tweak" the diopter without removing the binocular from your eyes. I can't do that with my Leica 7 x 42 BN or my Nikon 10 x 32 EDG and could not do it with a Vortex 6.5 x 32 I had which I returned because the Diopter mechanism went haywire. The costs to repair these problems cannot be cheap and the quality control involved must necessarily be rigorous. Compare this to the simple way one can "tweak" a diopter located on the right ocular. Any complaints about those seem to have been about it being too loose and easily moved. I never heard a complaint about the excellent right eye locking diopter the Nikon HG/LX series has; pull it out-focus, push it in-lock it.

One expects bugs to crop up in brand new models built from the ground floor up like Nikon's EDG-or one should expect it. Nikon seems to have resolved them. But only after doing what appears to have been a market testing of a limited production of them with the EDG I to find out what the problems were. We will see.

Bob
 
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Over expectations I think. The quest for perfection: For a perfection that fits ones own personal preferences.

It seems that most of these imperfections, particularly with Swarovski, can be fixed easily. In a sense, the binocular is returned for some custom adjustment; this seems particularly so in the case of Swarovski, especially with their SLC range. It is almost as if Swarovski expects to have to do this. The cost of these repairs is probably factored into the wholesale price.

The demand by high end purchasers for the newest technology is also a factor.

It is debatable whether combining the mechanisms of focusing and setting the diopter into one mechanical focus wheel is a good idea IMO. The only manufacturer who has one that is both reliable and convenient is Swarovski with it's push in and set procedure. It is possible with these to "tweak" the diopter without removing the binocular from your eyes. I can't do that with my Leica 7 x 42 BN or my Nikon 10 x 32 EDG and could not do it with a Vortex 6.5 x 32 I had which I returned because the Diopter mechanism went haywire. The costs to repair these problems cannot be cheap and the quality control involved must necessarily be rigorous. Compare this to the simple way one can "tweak" a diopter located on the right ocular. Any complaints about those seem to have been about it being too loose and easily moved. I never heard a complaint about the excellent right eye locking diopter the Nikon HG/LX series has.; pull it out-focus, push it in-lock it.

One expects bugs to crop up in brand new models built from the ground floor up like Nikon's EDG-or one should expect it. Nikon seems to have resolved them. But only after doing what appears to have been a market testing of a limited production of them with the EDG I to find out what the problems were. We will see.

Bob
Leica has the BEST diopter system. When you pull the knob out to set the diopter you essentially have two focus knobs available simultaneously...one right, one left.
 
Leica has the BEST diopter system. When you pull the knob out to set the diopter you essentially have two focus knobs available simultaneously...one right, one left.

Then I must not have figured out how to use it because I keep taking it away from my eyes to see where the diopter indicator is in the minus one zone when I lock it.

Bob
 
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Then I must not have figured out how to use it because I keep taking it away from my eyes to see where the diopter indicator is in the minus one zone when I lock it.

Bob
When you pull the outer wheel out it disengages the two wheels allowing you to individually focus each side. Push the wheel back in and the setting is locked (both wheels engaged).

That's how it worked on my Ultravid and, I assume, the BN's.
 
John, it appears that those "red herring" Swaro focuser problems have now turned into grunions running! :) That is, there are just too many complaints and returns to ignore w/out feigning blindness.

As far as Bob's assessment of the issue being over-expectations, for $2K, one has the right to expect smooth turning focusers w/out play and diopters that work properly, that's not "perfection" that "proper working order".

There are two separate issues being thrown into the same basket that do not belong together. One is "proper working order". All focusers should work as they were intended from the factory, period.

Swaro or another company should not expect the bins to be returned for repairs for a recurring problem, as Bob contends. Sightron IIs maybe, but not at this price point.

Sure, you will encounter "lemons" at all price points, that's to be expected. Nothing's perfect that's made by humans, but when you have many complaints about the same problem, be it focusers or diopters or floppy eyecups or high CA or significantly truncated exit pupils or annoying flaring, etc., etc., at the higher price points, it's bad form to ignore these issue and have customers keep sending them in for repairs or sending them back to stores for refunds or selling them and buying a competitor's bin such as the recent example of a Swaro EL owner who, after not getting his bin fixed to his satisfaction, bought an FL.

More examples like that will force Swaro to get it right at the factory. They don't want to lose business, but I suspect they think there's so little competition at the top and the Big Three's bins are so different from each other, that brand loyalty will keep customers coming back despite continuing issues with their bins.

It might be that alphas and other companies are not willing to absorb the cost of making a redesign for a recurring problem, and as Bob implied, it's cheaper for them to get returned for repairs.

That's the difference btwn the long established alpha companies and smaller, new companies such as Zen Ray. When Zen Ray found out about the "veiling glare," they quickly devised a "fix". They didn't have the prestige, 80+ years of tradition, and the perception of quality of a "Made in Germany/Austria" product to rest their laurels. They had to respond quickly and effectively.

For years, people complained about Leica's poor customer service, but those "cries" were ignored. Lots of complaints about the astigmatism in the FLs, but Zeiss maintained it was a design decision intended to sharpen the image in the centerfield. With Swaro, it's the focusers, and not just the ELs, also the SLCs.

If you pay for "the best," you should expect "the best," be that warranties, mechanics, optics, etc.

Buyer preferences is another issue altogether, and Bob touched on this above. Not everybody likes fast focusers or slow focusers or on-the-focuser diopters or open bridge roofs or sees CA and thinks it's worth paying $400-$600 for that upgrade at the top tier. Some prefer low distortion bins and can't see RB. Some are not bothered by a high level of distortion (pincushion), others are.

Those are all personal preferences, and buyers have their pick when it comes to these choices among quality binoculars.

That's different than if everything is in proper working order. For example, Leica's focusers are harder to turn than Zeiss' and Nikon's or even Swaro's (depending on the sample), but that's the way they were designed, so they can turn the same way in really cold weather when other brand's focusers might creep to a crawl. So that's a design choice, not one that everybody likes, but as long as it's consistent, the buyer knows what to expect.

But if some Leica focusers were too loose and others too hard to turn and some with play, that would be a QC issue.

As alluded to earlier, there's also a third layer to this, and that's the user's perceptions, not just preferences.

People might be unaware or able to ignore issues such a "rolling ball", "rolling bowl," CA, small sweet spots, focusers that are harder to turn in one direction than the other, diopters that are too sticky or loose because they can "set and forget", etc.

This third factor confuses things, because two people review the same sample bin and come away with different perceptions of it and have different preferences.

Humans are complex and come in all shapes and sizes, so trying to design a a pair of "one size fits all" binoculars is not just a Herculean task, but an impossible one.

On top of which, binoculars have fast optical systems that make the correction of certain aberrations much harder if not impossible compared to slower optical systems such as telescopes.

So you're always working with a set of compromises, and the buyer chooses the set that best suits his needs and preferences.

As long as those parameters are consistent, he knows what to expect. But when quality control is inconsistent, then he doesn't.

A case in point was my first sample Nikon 8x32 HG. The focuser was not only fast but loose and had a bit of play in it. I read in the BF reviews that the focuser was fast, and not everybody liked it.

My sample's focuser was so loose that I had to keep my finger on it while birding so it didn't accidentally get knocked out of focus by movement of the bin. I figured this was the way it was supposed to be, like it or not.

The image was awesome, so I figured this would be something I'd have to live with, though with my focus accommodation, it was challenging. I had to keep changing the diopter setting after I'd overshot my target.

I read more reviews and found some people saying there was sample variation in 8x32 HG's focusers, some were "faster" than others. I also tried a friend's 8x42 and 10x42 HGs, and found those models focusers weren't as fast though still faster than my porros.

So I sold my first sample 8x32 HG, and after a while took a chance with another. Lo and behold, the focuser turned smoothly and precisely. It was still very fast (1/2 turn from cf to infinity), but I didn't have to keep my finger on it to keep it from accidentally turning nor was there play in the focuser.

I also had a 10x42 HG with an optical element on one side that was not coated.

Both these problems could have been found at the factory with good quality control. Japan is world famous for QC. W. Edwards Deming went to Japan in the 1950s and created a QC revolution that made Japan into a manufacturing marvel within two decades.

I tried or owned six sample HGs. Two of those had QC issues (unfortunately, both were ones that I bought). Maybe I was just unlucky. Or maybe Nikon needed to ramp up its QC on the HGs.

My point is that when you pay good money for any product, you should expect it to arrive in proper working order. If that has become an "over-expectation" today, considering the advances in engineering and production, I think our expectations are too low.

Brock
 
Most of the complaints I have seen about the Swarovskis concern the difference in effort it takes to move the focus knob in one direction than the other. The other major complaint concerns a gritty nature to the focusing rather than a smoothness.

My experience is with 2 models. The 8 x 30 SLC which one focuses with one's ring finger because the focusing knob is in front of the hinge. I find no problems using it and neither does my wife who, in fact, likes it very much.

My other model is a 7 x 42 SLC B. It does take a bit more effort to "push" the focus wheel than to "pull" it with my forefinger. It is not really that obvious but it is noticeable when I look for it. I am right handed. Additionally it has no gritty feel, rather, it is quite smooth. Since this is a 7x it has expansive depth of field from close up to near infinity so not much tweaking is needed to sharpen the focus. I don't know how much difference this variation in effort needed to focus it would bother a person who uses a 10 x 42 or if the user were left handed. In my case it probably would not bother me at all.

I have no knowledge of how problematic it would be for Swarovski to make the focus mechanism operate with the same amount of effort in both directions. Or how much a redesign would cost or even if one is needed. It might be simply a matter relating to the lubrication of the mechanism. My guess is that someone in Swarovski's factory in Austria does a quick test of each one, including the focus wheel's movement before they are boxed up.

Bob
 
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Any mechanical contrivance designed by man can and will fail. Any mechanical contrivance will have tolerances. Definitions of "proper working order" are pretty slippery. People are just too different in what they think they want.

I think the real issue is over expecting things and over obsessing over things that really don't matter too much at the end of the day. If you want a perfect binocular, expect to pay way more than $2k for it. It will have to be fitted to your face, physical size, eye conditions...etc. Probably painstakingly assembled one piece at a time examining maybe ten pieces to get tolerances right for the custom binocular. You'll have a $10k thing that is worthless to anybody else.

For example, we hear so much about the focus issue it almost makes me ill to read about it, and I pretty much don't pay much attention to it in posts any more. It really does not matter how any particular manufacturer does it. Counterclockwise to infinity will even cause some to ignore a binocular. If it is one turn from close to infinity it is to fast for somebody else. If it is slick and smooth (how the heck we define that boggles the imagination ;)...and don't tell me I'll know it when you see it...your definition is likely different from mine) it is too slick for somebody else. However it is done by whoever it is that does it, it will not be right for somebody. Blessed be the name of the game I guess.
 
Over expectations I think.

Bob

One pays a premium for premium quality. I dont own and alpha, likely wont, however IMO (worth what you paid for it!) every alpha on the shelves should be cherry. It is inexcusable to pay top dollar and still get QC issues.



This is why Swaro will drop bino's and scopes in the next 20 years and stick to fashion. :t:
 
Oh boy, don't get me going.....see my new post and new problem in the swaro forum. I am filling out the warrenty form to send them off now as we speak.
 
I`v taken to only buying new optics from a trusted dealer and trying the very one I`m paying for, I`v completely gone of online purchasing of performance goods.
 
Most of the complaints I have seen about the Swarovskis concern the difference in effort it takes to move the focus knob in one direction than the other. The other major complaint concerns a gritty nature to the focusing rather than a smoothness.

My experience is with 2 models. The 8 x 30 SLC which one focuses with one's ring finger because the focusing knob is in front of the hinge. I find no problems using it and neither does my wife who, in fact, likes it very much.

My other model is a 7 x 42 SLC B. It does take a bit more effort to "push" the focus wheel than to "pull" it with my forefinger.

Actually I don't think the SLCs are the problem. I personally don't like their focuser that much, but then I don't like the focusers of many modern roofs. But the focuser of the SLC is alright, I could easily live with that.

What's not alright in my not so humble opinion is that the focuser of at least some open bridge Swaros is downright bad. Of the five or six Swarovisions I've seen a couple were pretty awful, so bad in fact, that I felt they should never have left the factory. Uneven, a lot more difficult to turn in one direction than the other, gritty. So bad that I felt they'd make using the binoculars in the field difficult.

Hermann
 
Hermann,

That very well might be because the entire focusing mechanism would seem to be necessarily shorter in an open bridge binocular than it would be in the more common closed bridge roofs. (And maybe harder to build right?) I haven't looked at any cutaway illustrations of either recently though.

I never could understand why they call a binocular with 2 bridges "open" and one with only one bridge "closed." Aren't the fingers holding the optical tubes in the former "enclosed?"

Bob
 
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That very well might be because the entire focusing mechanism would seem to be necessarily shorter in an open bridge binocular than it would be in the more common closed bridge roofs. (And maybe harder to build right?) I haven't looked at any cutaway illustrations of either recently though.

The whole focusing mechanism seems to be more difficult to make because there's so little room. And it seems they still haven't got this sorted out. I find that pretty surprising, given their experience and expertise with this type of focuser. Maybe that's an indication of how difficult it is to get the focuser just right with this kind of design. To me it looks as though Swarovski opted for a design that is more prone to problems with the focuser for what they see as an ergonomic advantage.

I also heard that some other manufacturers decided against open bridge designs for that reason.

Hermann
 
When you pull the outer wheel out it disengages the two wheels allowing you to individually focus each side. Push the wheel back in and the setting is locked (both wheels engaged).

That's how it worked on my Ultravid and, I assume, the BN's.

Thanks,

It worked for me. It's very efficient and fast. And reliable too: Because I hadn't reset mine for quite a while.:t:

I reset the diopter this morning and was able to do it without taking the binocular away from my eyes. I used my test target for this year; two large pine cones in a pine tree a bit over 100 feet away. My right eye setting ended up right where it was before.

Bob
 
Diopter adjustment is really a messy fiddle at best.
The usual way is to cover one ocular, adjust the image to be sharp, then cover that ocular, uncover the other one and try to get the sharpest image possible by twisting the diopter adjustment.
Problem one is that one must try not to squint at any time in this process, because it throws off the sharpness from what it would be if both eyes were relaxed.
Problem two is that even if one does not squint, it seems the eyes acting independently do not focus the same as when they are working in concert, at least in my case. The settings may seem sharp for each eye but then are not quite right when both eyes are used together.
Does anyone have a better way to correctly adjust the diopter despite the eyes variability?
 
I figure that after I do the adjustments for both eyes and get them both as sharp as possible and lock them in, if it looks even bigger and sharper when I look at it with both eyes I've got it right.

Bob
 
Etudiant,
That is just what the Leica method tries to accomplish. The left and right sides focus independently when the knob is popped out. So, you just observe two-eyed, in a relaxed and normal way, and tweak the two barrels until the image seems right.
Ron
 
Diopter adjustment is really a messy fiddle at best.
The usual way is to cover one ocular, adjust the image to be sharp, then cover that ocular, uncover the other one and try to get the sharpest image possible by twisting the diopter adjustment.
Problem one is that one must try not to squint at any time in this process, because it throws off the sharpness from what it would be if both eyes were relaxed.
Problem two is that even if one does not squint, it seems the eyes acting independently do not focus the same as when they are working in concert, at least in my case. The settings may seem sharp for each eye but then are not quite right when both eyes are used together.
Does anyone have a better way to correctly adjust the diopter despite the eyes variability?

The traditional method doesn't work for me because of my poor (or at least mediocre) focus accommodation. I can't just do this set -up once and "set and forget". I have to readjust the diopter for close up, medium distance, and long distances.

Carrying around the objective covers and doing this again and again would be tedious, so I use the "if it feels good, do it" method. :)

I'll set the left side and then the right, but that doesn't always get it correct, if not I'll adjust the diopter until my eyes feel relaxed. When that happens, the image is in focus in both eyes. Even if the diopter is just a bit off, I can feel it as tension in my eye.

I know for sure, not everybody's eyes are this sensitive. I've handed bins to friends and family, and showed them how to adjust the diopter, and they invariably say, "It's fine". Some wear glasses for myopia, and most have eyes that have closer diopter numbers than my two eyes, which are very different from each other, so I know it can't be "fine" for everybody. But they are either clueless as to the focus being off, or they have amazing focus accommodation.

Brock
 
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