operation ibis
It's been onehellovaday.
We booked our train ticket to Beijing shortly after we arrived at Xian. This has given us 5 days, enough time we figured, to fit in a side trip to look for Crested Ibis at Yangxian. The more we looked into this however, the less tempting it was to try it. My enquiries drew a blank when it came to recent attempts by foreigners to go and see them without going on an expensive tour. The most recent news I heard was of someone a couple of years ago being detained by police, and I also heard of someone just being stopped and turned back, even though he was on a public bus. It seemed as though foreigners were being made to do a tour, even though the birds could be seen in public places. We were also told at our guesthouse that regular buses from the south terminal took 7 hours to get to Yangxian. This would mean trying to find somewhere cheap to stay, if there was anywhere, and a lot of potential confusion in a town where backpackers just don't go. Even if we went, our gen was vague, so we could easily dip if not arrested.
We ummed and erred for days, and I must admit that 90% of the time I was "No way. Why travel 7 hours on a bus to get nicked, just so you sing a la Clash:
Went for the ibis but saw none
I fought the law and the Law won"
10% of the time (normally after some beer) I'd be more "Someone's got to try it then, to see if it can be done, for the good of budget birding. And anyway, this thread will get really boring if we don't go for it". Nicky was more up for it though, and when we got some slightly better gen from Mcaribou on where to look, we changed our minds, and yesterday we decided we'd go today.
We were then dealt a bit of a blow. Yesterday afternoon I had my bag nicked while we were in an internet cafe. This has meant the loss of one of our duff pairs of bins, and my notebook going back to Australia (so thank goodness for BF for having lots of it on here). Also lost was a compass we thought might be useful in case we got totally lost at Yangxian.
This morning we took bus 203 to the south terminal, arriving at 6.45am. We then had a nice surprise, there was a minibus outside the bus station about to leave for Yangxian. It cost 7Q (only a quid more than the bus), and was to take only 3 hours. On the approach to Yangxian, just before the turn off, the highway crosses the main river. Looking to our right we saw 2 objects on the river that maybe could have been the ibises. This prompted us to get out of the minibus way before town, just after the toll booth. Covering our heads and trying to look as local as possible at a distance, we headed down the road parallel to the river in the direction of the highway. A couple of police cars passed, and we tried not to look unlocal. I felt like a kid again, birding somewhere I shouldn't, and it was a real buzz! We turned east when the road went under the highway, and headed down a track, then through fields towards the river. We only got the bins out when a flock of thrushes was too tempting not to go through. They were mostly Naumann's Thrush, which turned out to be numerous in the area, but a couple of good-looking Dusky Thrush was a new bird bird for me. Sneaking up on the objects we'd seen from the bridge was a doddle. They were mopeds. Not known for their wariness on approach.
So now what? Mcaribou had told us that the ibises feed along the main river, but there is a nesting spot c2km north of town, to the east of a tributary. We thought from here, that it would be better to just walk along the river bank, which seemed likely to be free of Plod. The terrain was a bit awkward, with mucky pools, gravel works, cows, suspicious-looking locals etc. But it was full of birds. It was difficult not to get distracted by Green Sandpipers, Little Ringed Plovers, wagtails and pipits etc. exploding everywhere. We were mainly looking for big things, and I very nearly overlooked something pretty major. It took a while to click that one of the LRPs just wasn't right, and when I flushed it again it started to sink in. It was an adult plumaged "ringed plover" without a conspicuous wingbar, but it looked rather big and had the wing pattern wasn't quite right, including a large dark carpal area! When it landed it appeared to also have a long all dark bill and no yellow eye-ring, and was less compact than LRP. Could it be? Nicky had gone on ahead to find somewhere to snack, and wasn't bothered about chasing plovers around, so we never got a pic of it, but I kept pursuing it. I flushed it about 5 more times, and each time it looked wrong in all the right ways, until it finally landed right beside a group of 3 LRPs and dwarfed them considerably. I was finally happy that I was looking at my first LONG-BILLED PLOVER. What an unexpected bonus!
The walk onwards, towards the two big bridges ahead, produced a smattering of egrets, Grey Herons, Cormorants, Lapwings, Teal, Wigeon, Little Grebes etc. We decided to walk further along the river before crossing the bidges into town, and about 50m after we'd walked under the 2nd bridge, we pretty much walked into 2 unexpectedly grey looking CRESTED IBIS! Wowzer. Really odd looking birds, and a real shock when they flew, revealing peachy-white flight and tail feathers. Incredibly it was job done for the price of the bus fare, by 11.30am. We even made it back to Xian for tea time.
Other birds around the bridges included Vinous-throated Parrotbill, Daurian Redstart, Grey-capped Greenfinch, Little Bunting, Kestrel, and what I first figured must be Sooty Tits, but now, having seen Oriental Bird Images, think might be a really odd race of Long-tailed Tit. I wish I had a field guide!
Can someone with a China field guide help me with these too?:
1. Two large dark-rumped Apus swifts seen over Xian. Looked like Common or Pallid. Which is/are likely?
2. Pipits in big numbers along the river at Yangxian. Looked like Water Pipits. Are there any other pipits with unmarked buffish breasts and greyish crown that they could be?
3. Corvus sp on a post c100km south of Xian in Qinling mts. Had white nape extending round to unds. Not seen well enough to tell if Collared Crow or Daurian Jackdaw. Which is/are possible ?
Lastly I'd really like to thank MKinHK for telling us about the Crested Ibis site in the first place, Mcaribou for closing us in on them, and the people who told us warning stories, for making the day more of a thrill!
1763 DUSKY THRUSH
1764 LONG-BILLED PLOVER
1765 CRESTED IBIS