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Field of view for monoculars (1 Viewer)

Cyclops

1 eyed tree hugging nature nut!
I was googling the FOV calculation for binoculars, and one site mentioned that it takes into account the combined view from both oculars. Now I can only see through one eye so I would therefore only be able to utilize half of the stated FOV. So I was wondering how it works out for monoculars...
 
Hi,

don't be afraid - you'll get the stated field of view for the monocular you ordered.
Without an instrument, the field of view is indeed a lot smaller with only one eye, but with binoculars both eyes should see the same field of view - that is, if the pair is in good collimation.

Joachim
 
Hi,

don't be afraid - you'll get the stated field of view for the monocular you ordered.
Without an instrument, the field of view is indeed a lot smaller with only one eye, but with binoculars both eyes should see the same field of view - that is, if the pair is in good collimation.

Joachim
I have no idea what the actual view through a pair of binoculars is like. Its something I've never been able to experience. Can't see 3D either.
 
I was googling the FOV calculation for binoculars, and one site mentioned that it takes into account the combined view from both oculars. Now I can only see through one eye so I would therefore only be able to utilize half of the stated FOV.
What you've read is a lie that only an incompetent can write on the net.
Each eyepiece of binoculars will have the same field of view, so even a monocle will have the same field of view.
You will see exactly the same amplitude that anyone with binoculars from the same field of view sees. The fact of using only one eye does not discriminate against the visual field, but only a lesser three-dimensional sensation. Only the part generated by the parallax (two different perspectives). But you don't lose much.

The field of view of the eyepiece also determines the apparent width of the observation window (which is the one that most interests us all). The greater the window, the greater the sensation of being inside the observed scene.
The declared field of view value for binoculars and spotting scopes must be assessed on the basis of magnifications. Thus, for 10x values, a field greater than 100m and greater than 125m for 8x will be preferable.
You will hardly find 10x monoculars with 120m or 8x with 150m at low cost, but at most 10x with 112m and 8x with 140m approximately.
Sometimes a higher quality monocle with a narrower field is better than a wide but low quality field. If you have no price problems, you will have more chances.

If you don't understand anything or have doubts, always ask.
 
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The declared field of view value for binoculars and spotting scopes must be assessed on the basis of magnifications. Thus, for 10x values, a field greater than 100m and 125m for 8x will be preferable.
You will hardly find 10x monoculars with 120m or 8x with 150m at low cost, but at most 10x with 112m and 8x with 140m approximately.
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Here's the specs for the monocular I plan on getting (Opticron T4 10*25)

Field of View (°)5.5
Field of View (m@1000m)96
Field of View (ft@1000yd)288
 
And here are the specs for 8*25 version

Field of View (°)6.8
Field of View (m@1000m)119
Field of View (ft@1000yd)357
 
Well I've had a good think about all this, and I just compared the view through my Hunter Bresser 7*50s with my daughter's Bushnell 10*25s. Not much of a difference in magnification but a difference in brightness, depth of field and width of view and I think I'm leaning towards the 8*25 monocular.
 
I think I'm leaning towards the 8*25 monocular.
The field of view of the two Opticrons is proportionate to the magnification, but the width of the window you will see will be exactly the same in both the two formats.

You should take into account that 8x works properly for medium-sized subjects (like a pheasant) up to distances of 24m and 10x up to 30m (there is a direct proportion between magnification, detail and viewing distance).
These are distances that I calculated with experiments, so they are average and approximate values, but they make the idea. If you have to observe 50-100m away, neither 8x nor 10x will be adequate, but it will take about 16-34x.
If instead you have to observe within 10-15m, then 5x may be preferable.
 
I think 8x is a good compromise. My first binos were a pair of Helios 8*30s bought for me back in the 80s (still got them though they're somewhat compromised)
 
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