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Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

10x30is II can you use rechargeable batteries? (1 Viewer)

Gaz1969uk

Well-known member
Hello.

What's the best batteries for these binoculars?
Can you use eneloop rechargeable?
How long is the life in real terms?

Thanks Gary
 
I would use a good quality Lithium battery because they are less likely to leak, they last longer, and they are lighter than Eneloops. Eneloop rechargeables can leak and here is the proof.

"Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™ Batteries are GUARANTEED NOT TO LEAK. Due to advanced technology, Ultimate lithium™ batteries will not leak under normal consumer usage. If you believe that you have a leaking Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™ battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return" instructions.

49981729562_3a5d122f00_c.jpg
 
Electronics is usually engineered to use a 1.5 volt battery and the rechargeable ones often provide 1.4 volts or less and this results in erratic performance. You may see the IS as good when first switching on the binoculars but find after some time the IS is not working well.

As mentioned about battery leakage I use lithium single use batteries that are the least likely to leak and damage a device. Batteries start to corrode and leak when they are discharged so a good idea to periodically test them with a pulse load type of battery tester and replace sooner rather than later. Highly recommend the ZTS pulse load battery testers.
 
Gary,
I notice from some of your other posts that you have joined the movers and shakers club. Welcome to a vastly improved view of the world.
I bought my first Canon IS binocular about 12 years ago and since then l have built up a large collection. This has replaced non-stabilized top end Nikons and Zeiss and proved to be one of the best birding decisions I've made.
I started to use Eneloops early on, within 6 months of purchasing my first Canon IS and in every additional one since. During that time l have Never, repeat Never had an Eneloop leak.
If you decide to use Eneloops, the black AA Eneloop Pro 2500 mAh will fit the 10x30 IS ll. It's higher capacity than the white AA 1900 mAh. They hold their charge well but l always carry extras, although l don't normally need to change them when l'm out. Just out of interest, l now use Eneloop rechargables in most of my appropriate electrical gear, not just binoculars.
Now a little story:-
It's interesting that the first reply is from Denco who has been posting on Birdforum for many years and has been so dismisive of stabilized binoculars that, single handedly, he has probably put off many people from even trying IS binoculars. From reading articles written by people who realy knew their subject, (thank you all), l realised that he was talking rubbish. So every time l press the button, which only exists on stabilized binoculars, l smile.
In recent times Denco has become a mover and shaker. He started to talk about non-stabilized binoculars with lower magnification in x7 and x6 area which appeared to me to indicate that he had shake. And, low and behold, he now uses IS binoculars. In a recent sale of his Swarovski NL 8x32 in Birdforum he states:- "... selling because l use my Nikon 10x25s more in the daytime..."
Beware of anything which Denco says !!
Stan
 
Gary,
I notice from some of your other posts that you have joined the movers and shakers club. Welcome to a vastly improved view of the world.
I bought my first Canon IS binocular about 12 years ago and since then l have built up a large collection. This has replaced non-stabilized top end Nikons and Zeiss and proved to be one of the best birding decisions I've made.
I started to use Eneloops early on, within 6 months of purchasing my first Canon IS and in every additional one since. During that time l have Never, repeat Never had an Eneloop leak.
If you decide to use Eneloops, the black AA Eneloop Pro 2500 mAh will fit the 10x30 IS ll. It's higher capacity than the white AA 1900 mAh. They hold their charge well but l always carry extras, although l don't normally need to change them when l'm out. Just out of interest, l now use Eneloop rechargables in most of my appropriate electrical gear, not just binoculars.
Now a little story:-
It's interesting that the first reply is from Denco who has been posting on Birdforum for many years and has been so dismisive of stabilized binoculars that, single handedly, he has probably put off many people from even trying IS binoculars. From reading articles written by people who realy knew their subject, (thank you all), l realised that he was talking rubbish. So every time l press the button, which only exists on stabilized binoculars, l smile.
In recent times Denco has become a mover and shaker. He started to talk about non-stabilized binoculars with lower magnification in x7 and x6 area which appeared to me to indicate that he had shake. And, low and behold, he now uses IS binoculars. In a recent sale of his Swarovski NL 8x32 in Birdforum he states:- "... selling because l use my Nikon 10x25s more in the daytime..."
Beware of anything which Denco says !!
Stan
Stan, thanks for the info, I have to say I do smile now when I push the button, it's just so enjoyable.. also I have the black pro eneloops here that's what I use for other gear and my ham radio receiver's and scanners.
So I'm no officially in the movers and shakers club.. yippee...👍😁
 
I would use a good quality Lithium battery because they are less likely to leak, they last longer, and they are lighter than Eneloops. Eneloop rechargeables can leak and here is the proof.

"Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™ Batteries are GUARANTEED NOT TO LEAK. Due to advanced technology, Ultimate lithium™ batteries will not leak under normal consumer usage. If you believe that you have a leaking Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™ battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return" instructions.

View attachment 1628543
Can't say I've had any issue afters years of using them but thanks 👍
 
Electronics is usually engineered to use a 1.5 volt battery and the rechargeable ones often provide 1.4 volts or less and this results in erratic performance. You may see the IS as good when first switching on the binoculars but find after some time the IS is not working well.

As mentioned about battery leakage I use lithium single use batteries that are the least likely to leak and damage a device. Batteries start to corrode and leak when they are discharged so a good idea to periodically test them with a pulse load type of battery tester and replace sooner rather than later. Highly recommend the ZTS pulse load battery testers.
I've not found any drop off in the performance of Eneloops having used them for 12 years. However, l don't wait until they are fully discharged before l change them and l always charge the discharged batteries when l return home. It helps if you have 2 small battery cases to keep the charged and discharged batteries separate.
Stan
 
I've not found any drop off in the performance of Eneloops having used them for 12 years. However, l don't wait until they are fully discharged before l change them and l always charge the discharged batteries when l return home. It helps if you have 2 small battery cases to keep the charged and discharged batteries separate.
Stan
Agreed same as me.. thanks Stan
 
I've also been using Eneloops for many, many years. Got my first sets through a groupbuy on Candlepowerforums before they became available in the USA and Europe. Never had any problems with them, and I use a lot.

All this talk about leaking is utter nonsense. Many of the guys over at Candlepowerforums use them at very high currents, well outside their specifications.

Of course I also use them in my 10x42 L IS.

Hermann
 
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I've also been using Eneloops for many, many years. Got my first sets through a groupbuy on Candlepowerforums before they became available in the USA and Europe. Never had any problems with them, and I use a lot.

All this talk about leaking is utter nonsense. Many of the guys over at Candlepowerforums use them at very high currents, well outside their specifications.

Of course I also use them in my 10x42 L IS.

Hermann
In a high drain device like an IS binocular, Lithium batteries are a better choice for a lot of different reasons. Eneloops can be good for low drain devices like a remote control. Lithium batteries are much better in cold temperatures than Eneloops, where you might use an IS binocular. Lithium batteries have a lower risk of leakage than Eneloops which is very important in an expensive IS binocular. Lithium batteries are also lighter than Eneloops which is crucial in an IS binocular that you are carrying all day. You can use Eneloops in your IS binoculars, but I think Lithium batteries have many advantages.

Compared to lithium batteries, Eneloop (NiMH rechargeable batteries) are generally considered more prone to leaking, as lithium batteries are designed with better seals and chemistries that make them less likely to leak under normal conditions; however, both types can leak if mishandled or damaged significantly.

In cold temperatures, lithium batteries generally perform better than Eneloops (which are a type of NiMH battery), meaning they are the better choice for extreme cold weather situations; however, Eneloops still hold up significantly better than standard alkaline batteries in cold conditions.

Key points about battery performance in cold weather:
  • Lithium batteries: Considered the best option for cold weather due to their ability to maintain power even in freezing temperatures.
Key points:
  • Lithium battery advantage:
    Lithium batteries typically have a lower risk of leakage due to their internal design and electrolyte composition, which produces less pressure build-up compared to older battery technologies like alkaline batteries.

  • Eneloop leakage potential:
    While Eneloop batteries are considered relatively reliable, they can still leak if improperly used, like mixing partially charged and depleted batteries, or if subjected to extreme temperatures.
For most flashlights, especially high-powered LED models, lithium batteries are generally considered better than Eneloop batteries due to their higher energy density, longer runtime, and ability to deliver more power, making them ideal for bright light output.

Key points to consider:
  • Eneloop batteries:
    These are rechargeable NiMH batteries known for their low self-discharge rate, meaning they hold their charge well even when not in use, making them good for low-drain devices like remote controls.

  • Lithium batteries:
    Most commonly referred to as "lithium-ion" batteries, they offer significantly higher energy density compared to NiMH, resulting in longer runtimes and brighter light in high-power flashlights.

When to use Eneloop batteries:
  • Low power flashlights:
    If you only need a basic flashlight for occasional use, Eneloop batteries can be a good choice due to their long shelf life and reliable performance.

  • Cost-effective option:
    Eneloop batteries can be a more budget-friendly choice compared to lithium batteries, especially if you don't need the highest power output.

When to use lithium batteries:
  • High-power flashlights:
    For high-lumen LED flashlights, lithium batteries are preferred due to their ability to deliver high current and maintain brightness.

  • Longer runtime:
    Lithium batteries generally provide a longer runtime compared to Eneloop batteries in high-drain applications.
 
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So a stabilized binocular is a high-drain device? Utter nonsense. You must be a member of the Flat Earth Society.

Back on my ignore list.

Hermann
 
Been using eneloops for years as well as Mr Lidl's Tonic batteries and Amazon's finest. Never had one leak and despite being the cheapest, the Lidl ones hold their charge better and longer than all the others. I shall continue to put them in my yet to arrive new Canon's.

High-drain device? My ar*e!
 
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Here is an interesting thread on Cloudy Night's. It discusses how NiMH batteries could cause artifacts in an IS binoculars because they never reach the full 1.5 volts that an Alkaline or Lithium does. Most rechargeables only reach 1.2 to 1.3 volts. Some electronics are very sensitive to minor voltage drops, and so using NiMH batteries in an IS binocular could cause problems.


"I'd personally use Alkaline batteries, rather than rechargeables. Rechargeables, tend to never reach the full 1.5 volts that Alkalines will. Most rechargeable. batteries only seem to get to about 1.2 or 1.3 volts. The voltage may have nothing to do with the phenomenon you're getting, but some electronics are quite sensitive to minor voltage drops, and possibly it could create a problem."

"A word to the wise: Most Astronomy gear that takes AA batteries will not do as well with rechargeables, as the computer is finicky about it's power requirements, IIRC."

Yes, nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries have a lower voltage than conventional batteries.

Explanation

  • NiMH batteries have a nominal voltage of 1.2 volts per cell.
  • This is lower than the 1.5 volts of conventional batteries.
  • NiMH batteries maintain an average of 1.2 volts for most of their discharge cycle.
  • NiMH batteries work well in devices with lower voltage demands.
  • Lithium batteries are often used in devices that need a higher voltage because they are more efficient.
Additional information
  • NiMH batteries can operate many devices designed for 1.5 volts.
  • NiMH batteries may have a significant capacity derating from room-temperature values when used in cold environments.
  • Significant reductions in voltage delivery occur at discharge rates above 1C.
  • Lithium-ion batteries are favored by automakers for their high energy density and voltage capacity.
No, NiMH batteries are generally not recommended for sensitive electronics because they provide a slightly lower voltage (1.2V) compared to alkaline batteries (1.5V), which can cause performance issues in devices that are particularly voltage sensitive; however, modern NiMH batteries can be suitable for most consumer electronics and are often a better choice than alkaline batteries due to their reusability and lower environmental impact, as long as the device isn't overly sensitive to voltage fluctuations.

Key points about NiMH batteries and sensitive electronics:

  • Voltage difference:
    NiMH batteries output a nominal 1.2V per cell, while most devices are designed for 1.5V alkaline batteries, which can lead to performance issues in sensitive electronics.
  • Check device specifications:
    Always consult the device manual to see if it explicitly states to use alkaline batteries only.
  • Potential applications:
    NiMH batteries are generally fine for most common electronics like remote controls, digital cameras, and toys, but might not be ideal for medical devices or precision instruments with tight voltage requirements.
Nickel metal hydride (NiMH) batteries have several disadvantages, including:
  • Self-discharge: NiMH batteries can lose 1–5% of their charge each day when idle.
  • Memory effect: NiMH batteries can experience memory effect issues if they aren't fully discharged before recharging.
  • Temperature sensitivity: Extreme temperatures can negatively impact NiMH battery performance.
  • Charging time: NiMH batteries have slower charging rates than newer technologies.
  • Limited lifespan: NiMH batteries may deteriorate after 200–300 cycles if repeatedly deeply discharged.
  • Heat: NiMH batteries generate more heat during charging than other types of batteries.
  • Maintenance: NiMH batteries require regular full discharge to prevent crystalline formation.
This was from a Bird Forum thread on the topic of using Lithium or Eneloop rechargeable batteries in a Canon IS binocular.

Etudiant
"I'm a devote of lithium batteries for my 10x42IS, they last a long time, perform flawlessly in hot or severe cold and don't leak, unlike regular alkalines. Best is that they go from good to no good very abruptly, so one never has a marginal battery issue.I used to swear by Eneloops, but no longer do, they have a somewhat lower voltage and can be marginal when needing recharging. I suspect, without any proof, that my first Canon's IS died after 10 years because it had been pressed into use while the onboard Eneloops were nearly discharged."

Etudiant
"Clearly we are on the same page, albeit speaking at cross purposes. I agree entirely that the power supply mechanism in portable gear, optical or otherwise, should be replaceable. I have a preference for lithium batteries, having given up on rechargeables because they don't break sharply between charged and discharged, a huge plus of the lithiums IMHO. A low voltage rechargeable stresses the Canon IS electronics in my experience, which is undesirable. Sadly, rechargeable lithium AA or AAA batteries are still unavailable, so I stick with the throwaways. Hopefully that will change soon."

Yes, computers can be quite "finicky" about their power supply, meaning even small fluctuations or inadequacies in the power supply can lead to performance issues, crashes, or even damage to components, especially if the power supply is not high quality or isn't matched to the computer's power needs properly.
 
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Been using eneloops for years as well as Mr Lidl's Tonic batteries and Amazon's finest. Never had one leak and despite being the cheapest, the Lidl ones hold their charge better and longer than all the others. I shall continue to put them in my yet to arrive new Canon's.

High-drain device? My ar*e!
Which new canon you got coming Pat?
 
I use rechargeable 2500mAh batteries from Lidl without any issues on my 18x50 and I compared them to the Alkaline batteries that came with binocular (that I only use when going abroad, to not have to take the battery recharger...), and didn't see any difference. As with my mobile phone, I recharge them before going to field... ;)
 
I use rechargeable 2500mAh batteries from Lidl without any issues on my 18x50 and I compared them to the Alkaline batteries that came with binocular (that I only use when going abroad, to not have to take the battery recharger...), and didn't see any difference. As with my mobile phone, I recharge them before going to field... ;)
It never ceases to amaze me how many do not check battery levels before they venture out. Do not ask me how I know this to be true……..

The Lidl batteries are a bargain, but the shame of traipsing along the Lidl aisle of dreams was almost too hard to bear. But I did and they are superb……and cheap.😆
 
When I was using speedlights at weddings the flash performance with NiMh batteries was erratic. I learned about the ZTS pulse load battery tester and bought one and used it to test all my NiMh batteries. Often in a set of 4 batteries one would be at 60 and that was enough to pull down the total voltage of the set. Some of the bad batteries were new or only recharged one or two times.

All alkaline batteries I have bought over the years would leak and destroy whatever they were in. The problem is that when the charge state gets to zero the internal chemistry starts to eat away at the battery shell. If it is not discovered in time the device ends up in the trash. Not a big deal for a $10 flashlight but a very big deal for my electronics. With my $1,100 binoculars the AA that lasts a year is going to be a lithium single use battery.

NiMh batteries also self discharge fast enough that I needed to recharge them each time before use. After 30 days there could be a drop of 20% or more. When I switched to power tools that used lithium battery packs it was great to be able to grab a tool that may have been sitting in a drawer for two months and to have enough charge left for use that day.

Voltage levels are more important than most people appreciate. When the first electronic cash registers and personal computers were introduced they had very large motherboards and the voltage at the far side of the board from the power supply would not be sufficient. Engineers starting using 6 volts DC instead of 5 volts DC from the power supply to compensate for the drop in voltage. Digital devices use voltage levels to differntiate between 0 and 1 and this requires a voltage sufficiently greater than the ground state for the devices to operate properly.
 

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