Sommer1943
Member
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Asahi Pentax 6x25 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Sommer1943
- Start date
Sommer1943
Member
Hello everyone!What I share with you today is this Pentax wide-angle binocular from Japan, thank you for watching!
Sommer1943
Member
7x35 Minolta Standard MK 11.05 degree measured field.
Others claim 13 degrees.
Komz special 8x30 13 degrees.
15x110 borderguard binocular 6 degrees.
Bresser Superwide 7x32 13 degrees plus.
Komz 6x24, Amplivid 6x24, Trinovid 6x24 all 12.2 degrees.
1943 periscope 120 degree eyepiece.
Koehler?
Regards,
B.
Others claim 13 degrees.
Komz special 8x30 13 degrees.
15x110 borderguard binocular 6 degrees.
Bresser Superwide 7x32 13 degrees plus.
Komz 6x24, Amplivid 6x24, Trinovid 6x24 all 12.2 degrees.
1943 periscope 120 degree eyepiece.
Koehler?
Regards,
B.
Sommer1943
Member
Around the 1970s and 1980s, many 7x35 binoculars appeared. I have a Skyline with a wide angle of 12 degrees. I compared it with the Pentax 6x25 with a wide angle of 11 degrees. Skyline uses BAK7 prisms, so the center of the good image range is small, and the blurred edge of the field of view does not reflect the advantages of a large wide angle.Although Pentax is small in size, except for the observation that the closer effect is inferior，the exit pupil, sharpness and good image are better than Skyline.
Last edited:
Binocollector
Well-known member
Very nice presentation! I just bought the same model on ebay. Just a few days after this post, I had a notification by ebay, since I always get one when a new 6x25 is posted for sale and it was the Asahi Pentax 6x25. The auction just ended and I won. Very excited to get it. I already have a 6x25, 11.5° FoV skeleton model from J-B93 Seiwa Kogaku Ltd., which is fantastic and one of my favourite wide angle binos. If the Asahi Pentax is even better than the Seiwa I will be very impressed.
I love skeleton binoculars, they are just so high quality, like little mechanical pieces of art.
I love skeleton binoculars, they are just so high quality, like little mechanical pieces of art.
I like skeleton binoculars also.
But my experience is that many are out of collimation.
More than the general Porro binoculars.
They look nice.
My only binocular in the 1960s was the Nipole 7x23 micro binocular from Charles Frank. 9.5 degree field.
After travelling hundreds of thousands of miles with me it began to rust and eventually went out of collimation despite the care I give optics.
But the secondhand ones have often disappointed because they just don't seem to do well on keeping collimation.
Maybe they are dropped being so small, although the 50mm and 18x are not that small.
Regards,
B.
But my experience is that many are out of collimation.
More than the general Porro binoculars.
They look nice.
My only binocular in the 1960s was the Nipole 7x23 micro binocular from Charles Frank. 9.5 degree field.
After travelling hundreds of thousands of miles with me it began to rust and eventually went out of collimation despite the care I give optics.
But the secondhand ones have often disappointed because they just don't seem to do well on keeping collimation.
Maybe they are dropped being so small, although the 50mm and 18x are not that small.
Regards,
B.
Binocollector
Well-known member
Strangely enough, I have 5 right now and none was out of collimation but some have fogged up prisms. And they are not that hard to work on because of the skeleton construction.
The one construction I hate the most are the standard Zeiss bodies or BL with prisms cemented in place. So far I didn't have the guts to remove the cement on any of them but apart from one (a Kamakura BL body 8x30 super wide) I didn't come across one were the cement was broken or it looked as if a prism had moved.
The easiest to work on are Hartmann binos (those ALL had fogged up prisms on arrival -- seems to be a problem with Hartmann binos and I currently have 5 of the Porlerim 8x30s -- I only worked on two of them and cleaned the prisms, the rest are spares -- I just like the brand -- once they are cleaned they are fantastic) and the skeletons IMHO. And you don't even need to open them to change the position of the prisms with the screws.
Maybe if I get a dozen more there might be faulty ones. My sample size is too small to make any relevant assessment.
Of the dozens of normal porros I have, about 30 % maybe arrived misaligned (despite all of the descriptions claiming otherwise) but most of the time a simple adjustment of the eccentrics was enough and often they are even still aligned in different IPD-settings after using the eccentrics for conditional alignment. Some are not but since I mainly only use them myself, conditional alignment ist fine for me.
The one construction I hate the most are the standard Zeiss bodies or BL with prisms cemented in place. So far I didn't have the guts to remove the cement on any of them but apart from one (a Kamakura BL body 8x30 super wide) I didn't come across one were the cement was broken or it looked as if a prism had moved.
The easiest to work on are Hartmann binos (those ALL had fogged up prisms on arrival -- seems to be a problem with Hartmann binos and I currently have 5 of the Porlerim 8x30s -- I only worked on two of them and cleaned the prisms, the rest are spares -- I just like the brand -- once they are cleaned they are fantastic) and the skeletons IMHO. And you don't even need to open them to change the position of the prisms with the screws.
Maybe if I get a dozen more there might be faulty ones. My sample size is too small to make any relevant assessment.
Of the dozens of normal porros I have, about 30 % maybe arrived misaligned (despite all of the descriptions claiming otherwise) but most of the time a simple adjustment of the eccentrics was enough and often they are even still aligned in different IPD-settings after using the eccentrics for conditional alignment. Some are not but since I mainly only use them myself, conditional alignment ist fine for me.
