• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

Binocular ramblings (1 Viewer)

I am not finding any really interesting ZR at around 300.

I know you say you are out of money now, but they have some pairs of the 8x43 EDs for sale right around $300 right now.

I was going to get a pair, but yesterday, I decided on the spur of the moment to get a pair of Audubon 8.5x44 porros. I'm going out today to check them out.

Chad
 
I would say that eye glass wearers will prefer the open frame Chinese ED binos, available in various brands. The Bushnell HD Legend does not have the eye relief in 10x. Without glasses on, either one is OK to me.

Tero, is the eye relief less than what's specified by Bushnell? Just curious, Bryce.
 
I think the 15mm may be right for the 10x. Those are at EO site. The 8x is there too
http://www.eagleoptics.com/binoculars/bushnell/bushnell-legend-ultra-hd-10x42-binocular

these numbers are right, as far as I can guess, but I have not measured them.
http://www.bushnell.com/products/binoculars/legend-ultra-hd/

Both my Promaster and Bushnell 10x pairs can be used with glasses, the Bushnell is just not as pleasant. With some struggling I can see almost the same field, but with my glasses I lose optic quality at the edge, and a little of the view.
 
Ah, yes, but I just use the top part to view, and I do not lose much with the Promasters near the edges.

I do not really need the glasses in the field except to write notes. Sometimes I write notes blindly, looking to see that the pen makes a mark, not being able to read it.
 
I use bifocals in the field and they are much more usable for birding than progressive lenses (sharp to the edge ;) and cheaper too!) though my PALs aren't "alpha".

The trick is to get the "line" as low as possible (lower than you'd normally have).

If you can avoid reading what you write (or reading field guides) single vision glasses are cheap online (and difficult to screw up) and a great solution too.
 
Last edited:
I think the no line bifocals are bothersome as well. I get mine dropped as far as they can and still have some problem esp. with upper edges. I have a pair of single vision "driving" glasses from Zenni, very cheap. I don't wear glasses normally with binoculars/ spotters, but have with the no line ones and don't like it.
Regards,Steve
 
Actually, the scope works best for me with glasses. Mine has nice soft rubber, folded back. So the scope I use at times with glasses on. With hands free, I can even leaf thru a field guide.
 
I like progressives the rest of the time but I think its worth buying a set of dedicated birding glasses (single vision or bifocal with the line dropped low) from an online supplier.

The requirement for the line postion is ideally lower than the outside edge of the ocular of your bins. Today that means perhaps 12mm or so from the center of the eye given that oculars can be up to 24mm (in my quick survey). Or you can use the ocular size or the bins you use.

Take a digital photo of your face with a ruler in shot(and perhaps a current set of glasses) to make measurements and then calculate the correct "reading segment heights" (i.e. the height of the line up from the lowest part of the frame). You may need taller frames than you would with "normal glasses". The reference is the bridge and where that gets placed on your face (as the limits how low you can adjust the specs).

Most online suppliers (or even local folks) should take custom "reading segment heights" even though you'll have to warm them that this looks really low!
 
Last edited:
Kevin it seems that most Optometrist don't want to drop the no line or bifocal much.My pair of driving glasses cost me $17.90 with AR coatings shipped, $12.95 wo AR coatings. I tried a different Rx for my left side that my Ophthalmologist gave me after I told him I thought that some eye practice pros don't try to get you past 20/20. I always had -1.50 for left eye and set my binocular to 2.0 diopters, so new Rx changed to -2.0 and now my left is almost as good as right.
 
I didn't have any trouble from my optometrist with regard to getting the lines dropped. I never thought of doing that for better use of binoculars. As it turns out, the dropped line works very well. (I just tried it this morning; normally I am wearing contacts.) I requested it because, well, that's the place I think the lines *should* be! Otherwise, the line simply gets in the way of normal everyday use. I have to tilt my head up slightly, however, to see the car speedometer....
 
I'd always distinguish between the optometrist (the eye exam guy) and the dispenser (the person who dispenses the glasses). The latter shoudl do as you wish or you should go elsewhere especially when you have a well defined need (there are lots of folks out there with "odd needs": pilots (overhead instruments to read), golfers (just enough).

In fact the latter one (if you can find anyone making the lenses might be an option for those that make simple field notes.

Another alternative is a voice recorder for field notes.

The usual alignment for bifocals is the line should be at the level of the lower lid.

I've used quite a few online glasses makers (including Zenni). They vary a bit in quality and they occasionally screw up (one example (not Zenni) they left off AR coatings that were requested ... twice ;) ). Some are better than others. And there are others that just "labs" i.e. they glaze your frames with lenses of your choice (they often have a wide range of lens choices from generic up to Nikon and Zeiss). They're more expensive than the bottom feeders but I suspect they might have higher quality.

I've also tried tweaking my prescription. The last exam I had for some reason even after a remeasurement (with a slightly changed prescription) and change of lenses was clearly off in astigmatism by several degrees. Tweaking the prescription proved this too. Still not sure what caused this perhaps a head tilt when making the measurements. I'll be going elsewhere for the next exam especially as this same OD has given inconsistent results with that eye over the past decade (there could be other higher order astigmatism issues confounding that eye too). Ideally I'd like to find an OD that can still use a phoropter (you know the old hardware that looks like a gigantic set of SciFi glasses with individual lenses rather than a computer controlled optical system) and then verify the prescription with a trial frame.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phoropter

Single vision is easy to make (or rather difficult to screw up!) and the CR39 lens blanks are well under $1 a piece so they're cheap. Bifocals rather more challenge (e.g. to get the same segment height and tilt in both). Progressives really need a fitting (or an experienced user -- it's not rocket science) and a quality maker to make the bins. Unfortunately most don't leave the makers temporary "fitting circle" (which should be centered in the pupil) on their progressives when they send them to the user. A dispenser would fit the glasses then remove those marks. Fitting without them is a bit of a pain in the butt.

But I think the average bin geek here can figure this stuff out. And glases wearers should obsess about this stuff as much as we do about our bins. ;)
 
Last edited:
Testing binoculrs for overall clarity and ease of use at home, indoor text targets
Bushnell Ultra HD 10x42 and Promaster 10x42 very close, getting used to holding both
next was Bushnell porro Legend 8x42
last was Pentax 10x43 SP, non ED. I was impressed 2 years ago, now they look like more rugged Monarchs.

Pentax 8x32 was not part of the games, it is in the car trunk for tomorrow, but I am still comfortable with it. It is with 10x that I see the big difference with ED glass. But the porros were good! Somehow, never got the idea to get 10x porros. I had a Fujinon pair for a day, awful. I looked for 10x42 porros for a while then gave up. Still hoping for 8x30 porros some day.
 
Well, I tested the 10x42 Bushnell Ultra and Pentax SP 10x43 outside, and the Pentax is till quite good. And I am sort of bonded to it, having used it a year or two. There really was no gain from the HD glass with yard birds. Handling is quite good for the Pentax. Focusing same, both go counterclockwise to long distance.

While I could sell the Pentax, I have a hunch I will still have the Pentax in good condition 10 years from now if I keep it. Very solid feel. The Bushnell feels like my old Monarch in hand. It is the weight mainly.

The Bushnell is a little brighter, colors slightly bolder.

Pentax does have more stray light issues.
 
OK, I was looking at stuff to sell or trade or buy. The Bushnell Ultra 8x42 is on order, so I will have the complete set. For when my hands get shakier. ;)

The wife is not happy with clutter, so I sold my little cheap scope. Now the one bulky thing is the Legend Porro, 8x42. How much would I even get for it if I sold it? We have a local outfit that collects donated binos for South America. Some guides and researcheres there.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 13 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top