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Birds, Beasts and Bugs- Trekking in Sabah, Borneo (3 Viewers)

This took us along the same route as the previous evening and was good for birds with greater coucal, crested serpent eagle, grey imperial pigeon, verditer flycatcher and collared kingfisher all seen. We soon came across a huge troop of pig-tailed macaques which were very entertaining, especially the young ones who were busy messing around swinging from vines and playing tag.
 

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As we carried on we spotted blue-crowned hanging parrots, a little bronze cuckoo and long-tailed parakeet. Then a flock of noisy bushy-crested hornbills landed in one of the emergent trees away from the road. Asian glossy starlings and another distant Bornean falconet were also noted.

Then, excitement as we finally caught our first glimpse of a Bornean pygmy elephant as it disappeared into the thickets on the reserve side of the road! Mohammed enthusiastically jumped down from the vehicle and proceeded to gesticulate wildly in the direction the elephant had disappeared in “pygmy elephant!!, Pygmy elephant!!” he exclaimed with glee several times before boarding the vehicle. We carried on, elated that we'd at least managed to get a brief glimpse of this solitary bull.:t:

We stopped to watch a giant millipede cross the road, and then a red-bellied hawk, another unusual sighting, gave us great views as it perched above the road. We also spotted some long-tailed macaques.
 

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We drove to a spot to wait for a flying squirrel to emerge from it's tree. The six O'clock cicadas started to whine as the last rays of the sun dipped behind the trees. Sure enough the squirrels emerged and eventually glided off into the night. It was dark as we headed back towards camp and this time we first spotted a crested serpent eagle. Then a little bat hanging from the branch of a tree. Afterwards we then came across another buffy fish owl a couple of fire-eared frogs and a large flying fox.

We were excited to find the elephant from earlier was grazing just off the side of the road, but he was rather camera shy, every time the guides shone their lights on him he would turn his face away from us and hide in the bushes. Then the guide would turn off the light, wait for him to become relaxed and start feeding again and then turn the light back on so in this way we caught brief glimpses of his face. This strategy stopped working after a while so we left the elephant to enjoy his meal in peace as we carried on.

As we drove back we spotted other nocturnal delights including two more leopard cats, one of which was kind enough to stop for long enough for me to get a photograph. One common palm civet, a greater mouse deer and a bearded pig were also seen as we made our way back into camp.
 

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Thursday 3rd April

One of the things for which Borneo is famous are it's pitcher plants and I realised that I hadn't actually seen any yet so I asked Mohammed if there were any and he kindly pointed out the plants that were actually all around the lodge! This time of year it seemed that all the big pitchers had come and gone so the only ones I saw were actually quite diminutive examples.

Up until now, we had been placed with other guests who were staying which wasn't really ideal, especially for Paul. Today Mohammed had promised to give us a special day with just the three of us. In the morning he would take us on a longer walk (deep joy!) and in the afternoon we would have our extended sunset game drive/night drive. Things started well with gibbons once again in camp as we climbed the (many) steps up past the cabins to the head of the gibbon trail. To be honest I would have quite happily stayed longer in camp to watch the gibbons. But Mohammed and Paul were keen to get started on the walk and so we carried on.

The gibbon trail was rather overgrown and Mohammed started slashing vigorously at the vines and branches as he tried to clear a path ahead of us. Paul looked at me, I looked at him, this clearly was not going to be a productive walk if Mohammed was just going to scare away everything within 50 yards of us as he crashed around, so Paul judiciously commented that we could get through the trail unaided. Getting the message, Mohammed stopped his attack of the local vegetation and we carried on.

After about 15 minutes, Mohammed spotted a crested fireback in deep undergrowth. It took me forever to get onto the bird, not helped by steamed up glasses and me mistakenly thinking the fireback was a type of woodpecker, not as it turned out, a spectacular forest pheasant. So the only views I got were of a dark bird with a flash of the blue wattle and glimpse of rufous flanks as it crossed the path and disappeared not to be seen again.

Then we spotted a chestnut-backed scimitar-babbler, and soon after a black eagle. A little further along a trogon of some description, flew from a clearing deeper into the forest.

After this little pocket of birds we saw absolutely nothing for the next two and a half hours of hard walking. Perhaps not surprisingly, as we carried on I got increasingly aggravated as we tried to navigate steep-sided ravines, clinging to ropes and slipping and sliding everywhere on this very muddy trail. The final straw was when I lost my footing, skidded on my backside and my camera got covered in mud. To say I was not too impressed was the understatement of the century!:C

Paul's incessant habit of checking every single hollow log and culvert rewarded us with some more roosting bats, this time Malayan Slit-faced Bats and as we emerged into the light we added another stork-billed kingfisher.
 

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It was time for lunch by the time we got back. Afterwards I spent some time watching out for otters along the river, as Paul had spotted one the day before. Unfortunately none reappeared.

As part of the package one afternoon we were invited to the spa to have one of Tabin Wildlife Resort's famous rainforest foot soaks. First you are invited to cover your face in a pack of Lipad volcano mud. Then as this dries you are served hot herbal teak as you soak your tired feet in a bowl of warm herbal water. The exact herbal concoction varies with the availability of the herbs and they also line the bowl with river stones to assist with ex foliation. It was just what I needed after an arduous rainforest trek! :)

Later on in the afternoon we boarded our vehicle for a late afternoon drive into the reserve.

The plight of the Sumatran Rhino


As mentioned earlier, Tabin Wildlife Reserve is one of the last places in Bornoe where Sumatran Rhinoceros are known to exist. To put this in perspective, there are thought to be fewer than ten Sumatran rhinoceroses in the whole of Borneo. The species is “functionally extinct” in Borneo and Peninsular Malaysia. That means that there are not enough of them left in the wild to breed successfully.

Attempts at breeding this species in captivity have also been a catalogue of disasters and has arguably done more harm than good in that many wild rhinos brought into captivity have died due to poor animal husbandry and lack of knowledge. The Cincinnati Zoo have, however, pioneered the way and have had some success with breeding them in recent years. However the programme has suffered a recent blow with the death of their female Suci.

The Bornean Rhino Alliance (BORA) is now in the process of bringing into captivity the remaining few wild rhinos who have no chance of breeding in the wild. Whilst we were in Danum we'd been told that the Bornean Rhino Alliance had captured a pregnant rhinoceros on 21st March and transported her to Tabin to be part of a last ditch attempt save this species from extinction. She has been named Iman and joins two other rhinos in captivity, one male and one female.

Unfortunately a press release issued on April 4th shows that the plight of rhinos in Borneo is indeed dire. What they thought were signs of pregnancy were actually indications of large tumours in Iman's uterus. This means that she has not been sexually active for a long time, probably without a male partner for maybe 5 to 10 years. The other female has equally severe reproductive tract pathology. BORA are now pinning their hopes on techniques such as in vitro fertilisation. Further information can be found here: http://www.borneorhi...ve-the-species/

We drove past her enclosure on the way.


As we drove we stopped by the river for a showy blue-eared kingfisher and headed up past the BORA rhino enclosure deeper into the reserve. We spotted a few birds, including rufous woodpecker, Raffles's malkoha, hairy-backed bulbul, buff-rumped woodpecker , bronze drongo, Asian paradise flycatcher and hill mynah. We got down to walk along the road for a bit, Paul going further than me and spotting some grey leaf monkeys which I missed. In the meantime I spotted another tree-shrew, which I couldn't identify, a sambar deer and some pig-tailed macaques.
 

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As we returned we were excited to see that Iman was standing on a hill within her enclosure, offering us a tantalising glimpse of the top of her body that just peeked out over the high fence which surrounded her enclosure and which usually provides an effective screen that blocked our view of this rare creature. Mohammed was stoked! Not even the guides have the privilege of being involved in the programme so this was also his first look at the rhino. We were not allowed to stop so it was basically a brief drive by sighting. A picture of Iman enjoying her mud wallow is included in the above-linked press release.

On the way back we also had a few bearded pigs run across the track at dusk.

A common palm civet emerged as night took hold just by camp and we also spotted a red giant flying squirrel in the trees near the restaurant.

We had time for a quick dinner before we took to the road again for our night drive. Another group saw elephants, but of course we were not so lucky this time. Not for elephants, but we did have some more special sightings. Firstly we spotted more common palm civets, two youngsters and an adult just near the entrance to camp. Mohammed tried to tell us that one of the adult common palm civets was a masked palm civet on account of the black tip to the tail but we have since discounted this as another false ID of common palm.

Another three leopard cat sightings of at least two different individuals added to our tally but then Mohammed spotted movement high up in a tree. This turned out to be a delightful Bornean slow loris, unhurriedly making his way along the branches feeding as he went. Mohammed said there was another one further down but this one was more obscured so I focused on watching the one that was out in the open. This was another of the mammals that I'd really hoped to see so I was ecstatic! :t: Finally, two more adult common palm civets were seen as we pulled back into camp.
 

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What a magnificent trip - the amount of mammals at Tabin is staggering, and the pitta pics are breathtaking. Congratulations also on finally getting your elephant!

Cheers
Mike
 
Thanks MKinHK! :t:

Friday 4th April

Our last morning in Tabin before heading back to Kota Kinabalu and I started with a walk around the lodge to look for gibbons. I was delighted to find the whole troop feeding right out in the open in a single tree near to the conference rooms Pitta Room and Trogon Hall. I tried to film them but the humidity quickly steamed up my lens! It was wonderful just standing there watching the gibbons feeding and playing and swinging from the branches. As I headed back towards the lodges, I spotted a velvet-fronted nuthatch making it's way down the trunk of a tree and then a pair of squabbling Prevost's Squirrels raced around the tree trunk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4eZx4F5lvs
 

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It was just Paul and myself with Mohammed and another guide and we first took a trip to a cave so that we could look for bats. Once we arrived at the end of a trail I realised that this trek would require another wade out along the river, then a scramble along a slippery rock face. So I decided not to bother and just relaxed with my feet dipped in the cool water as Paul and Mohammed braved the trek. No bats were seen, just swiftlets so I wasn't too disappointed to have given it a miss. We then took a drive back along the track past the Rhino enclosure in the hope of spotting the grey leaf monkeys that Paul had seen the previous day.

We had no there, but over the course of the morning we did see a few birds, including blue-eared and stork-billed kingfishers, black-headed bulbul, Asian fairy bluebird, yellow-bellied bulbul, crested serpent eagle, pied and black hornbills, short tailed babbler and red-billed malkoha.

We had time for lunch before we left Tabin behind for our flight back to Kota Kinabalu. We boarded the minibus for the trip back with a bunch of other guests. We also had one rather unwelcome stowaway, a rather vicious-looking spider that ran out from Paul's bag across the floor of the bus, causing a bit of a commotion amongst the passengers! Paul later told me that he believes he was actually bitten by this spider, apparently it didn't hurt but left a rather nasty mark!

We had some amazing views of Mount Kinabalu on the way back. After checking in at the Cassuarina Hotel we had a rather posh farewell meal at the Sheraton Hotel, I even managed to get my first cider of the trip there!B :)
 

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Saturday 5th April


Today I went in search of a chicken. Well that's how Ian described my last day. After having breakfast with Paul and saying goodbye (he had an earlier flight than me), I got a taxi to the harbour and got myself a ticket for the island, Palau Manukan. I was actually going in search of the Philippine megapode. This large-footed chicken-like bird is also known as the Philippine Scrubfowl or the Tabon Scrubfowl. Megapodes have big feet which they use to create mounds in which to incubate their eggs. Paul has seen them prior to my arrival along the paved running track that leads up to a viewpoint. I walked the entire length of the track, carefully listening out for every little rustle of dead leaves. Unfortunately for me there were plenty of little critters making rustling noises in the leaf litter. The majority of which turned out to be lizards of varying sizes, including some spectacularly large monitors!

On the way back I heard scrabbling down at the bottom of a steep slope and upon further inspection realised that I had found my quarry. A pair of megapodes were scraping through the vegetation looking for tasty morsels. As I followed them, they made their way up the slope and appeared on the track ahead of me so I was able to appreciate them a bit better.

After watching the megapodes I headed back to the beach and decided to take a dip as I had plenty of time before the boat came back. In fact more time than I was expecting because there was a substantial delay in getting me off the island.
 

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Not to worry though because I had allowed plenty of time before my evening flight. After grabbing a lunch of waffles at the harbour I took a taxi back to the hotel. For my last few hours I decided to check out the local beach-side bars and settled down with a nice cold cider, watching out for any birds that might happen by.
 

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Sadly it was soon time to head back to the hotel, grab my bags and head to the airport. Flight was on time and I arrived home around lunchtime the next day. I think my feet have just about recovered now..



THE END (next stop China! :) ).:t:
 

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Sadly it was soon time to head back to the hotel, grab my bags and head to the airport. Flight was on time and I arrived home around lunchtime the next day. I think my feet have just about recovered now..



THE END (next stop China! :) ).:t:

Thanks for your report, I've thoroughly enjoyed reading it. A lovely final photo too. I'm already looking forward to your China trip. When are you off?

TS
 
Cheers Mike I'll take a look. Obviously we are really hoping for red panda but it all depends on if Labahe opens as expected and that the work in the park hasn't disturbed them! Tibetan fox and wolf are the others on the top of my list! :)
 
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