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ANN AND ROLAND GO BIRDING IN CUBA
(AGAIN!)
NOVEMBER 18TH
– DECEMBER 3RD, 2017
TRAVEL
We flew from Manchester to Amsterdam then on to Cuba with Air France/KLM. We got a
free upgrade to premium Economy on the flight out and were delighted to be given the
same on the way back!
LOGISTICS
The first time we went to Cuba, we did our own thing employing Angel, El Chino’s brother
for 2 days in Zapata and a birder called Elisir for another 2 days to do the Cayo Coco area.
This time we booked a two week tour with El Chino. It was a mistake
ITINERARY
November 18th. Arrive in Havana
November 19th. Drive to Soroa for overnight stay.
November 20th. Drive to Vinales for 2 nights and to visit La Guira National Park
November22nd. Drive to Playa largo for 4 nights and to explore Zapata
November 27th Drive to Trinidad for overnight stay and to visit El Cubano
November 28th Drive to Sierra de Najasa for 2 night stay at la Belen
November £0th Drive to Cayo Coco for 2 night stay and to bird the cayos
December 2nd Drive to Havana, birding on the way.
DIARY
Saturday, November 18th
.
We arrived in Havana around 21h30. El Chino had said he would pick us up from the airport
but later changed his mind and told us to take a taxi. When we got to the hotel (Vedado) we
dumped our stuff and went to locate him and make arrangements for the following day. The
hotel was “interesting”. That and the taxi were about an extra £100 on top of the cost of the
tour.
Sunday, November 19th
We had breakfast at 7h00 and set off about 30 minutes later. We had a driver, Pepito, for
the whole of our stay. He didn’t speak English but he drove carefully and was always helpful.
Getting out of Havana proved to be easier said than done as there was a Marathon taking
place and the police were out in full force with many road blocks in operation. Eventually we
found a side road to cut through and were on our way. Havana was mostly as I remembered
though I had forgotten just how dilapidated most of the buildings were! We were soon on
the motorway and stopped at Bauta for birds, toilets and coffee. There is a lake next to the
service area and we had soon clocked up quite a few birds including vast numbers of Lesser
scaup. El Chino thought there might have been around 1000. He commented that there
hadn’t been any the previous week. We had our best ever views of Least and Pied-billed
grebe (at least 6) We stopped again to look at a beautiful Red-tailed hawk in flight and
then near the Campismo La Chorrera. It was a brief but very fruitful stop as we saw several
different species including Yellow-throated warbler, Cuban emerald, Loggerhead kingbird,
Page 1 of 25
Page 2 of 25
Cuban peewee, Black-throated blue warbler, American redstart, Northern parula, Grey
catbird and Cuban green woodpecker.
The motorway was just as it had been last time we were here with its lack of traffic and full
complement of cheese sellers and hitch-hikers! At Soroa we had a brief wi-fi stop at the
Horizontes Villa Soroa Hotel and Roland and I got to see a Black and white warbler and a
West Indian Woodpecker. We did not have wi-fi cards so couldn’t use the wi-fi and we
elected not to purchase one at all while we were away. We had lunch at El Salto – the
Louisiana waterthrush was still there! We were serenaded throughout by a local group who
were about as tuneful as me Next we checked into our lovely lodgings: we had our own
little custom built bungalow – just a bedroom and bathroom with a patio but very nice
indeed. There were 2 of these in the grounds of a smallholding set back off the road and it
looked like they were building another one. Pepito drove Roland and I to the Orchid Garden
which we were to bird on our own as El Chino wanted a rest. We didn’t see as many birds as
last time just Western spindalis, Red-legged thrush, Greater Antillean grackle, Cuban
emerald, West indian woodpecker and Palm warbler - but this could have been because of
the time of year. There were some orchids out which was nice but it was incredibly hot.
Later on we went up the hill with El Chino and for a walk along the road and up a track. It
was very pleasant but all too soon we had to turn back as the light was fading. Highlights of
the walk included Great lizard cuckoos, a Cuban trogon, Red-legged honeycreeper and a
Cuban pygmy owl for the men. Fly-overs included Scaly-naped pigeon x2 and Gundlach’s
hawk. There were Turkey vultures everywhere we went today and that set a pattern for the
rest of the holiday!! We had a lovely meal back at the casa (El Alto Mireva – recommended!)
and I was absolutely delighted to find myself sharing the shower with a lovely little tree frog.
Made my day though I was nearly as excited to find a tiny green lizard in there too the
next morning!
American Coot
American Kestrel
American Redstart
Antillean Palm Swift
Black-and-white Warbler
Black-throated Blue Warbler
Black-throated Green Warbler
Common Gallinule
Common Yellowthroat
Cuban Blackbird (Endemic)
Cuban Emerald
Cuban Green Woodpecker (Endemic)
Cuban Oriole (Endemic)
Cuban Pewee
Cuban Pygmy Owl (Endemic)
Cuban Tody (Endemic)
Cuban Trogon (Endemic)
Eurasian Collared Dove
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Great Lizard Cuckoo
Greater Antillean Grackle
Green Heron
Grey Catbird
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Page 3 of 25
Gundlach's Hawk (Endemic) - EN
House Sparrow
La Sagra's Flycatcher
Least Grebe
Lesser Scaup
Little Blue Heron
Loggerhead Kingbird
Louisiana Waterthrush
Mourning Dove
Neotropic Cormorant
Northern Mockingbird
Northern Parula
Palm Warbler
Pied-billed Grebe
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Red-legged Thrush
Red-tailed Hawk
Rock Dove
Ruddy Duck
Scaly-naped Pigeon
Smooth-billed Ani
Snowy Egret
Summer Tanager
Turkey Vulture
West Indian Woodpecker
Western Cattle Egret
Western Spindalis
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Yellow-headed Warbler (Endemic)
Yellow-throated Vireo
Yellow-throated Warbler
Monday, November 20th
After breakfast we went down to the hotel for Chino’s wi-fi and to look for Scaly-naped
pigeons. El Chino said he had seen some in the grounds the previous week. Unfortunately
we couldn’t find any though we did see White-winged and White-crowned pigeons and a
Tawny-shouldered blackbird was pointed out. We had excellent views too of a Northern
Flicker. Time to set off for Vinales stopping here and there by patches of water to scan for
waders etc. We were amused by the road signs near Pinar del Rio of a dangerous crossing as
a road actually crosses the motorway at that point! We also saw a couple of bridges that
had been built over the motorway but had no roads at either end! We did an emergency
stop to watch a Belted kingfisher doing what it does best: fishing and as we passed the
Tilapia production lakes on our left we had views of 2 Osprey and a Snail kite through the
windscreen. We saw loads of Snail kite last time we came but not on this trip. We turned off
for the Hotel Mirador de San Diego hoping to see Cesar (bird guide) but he was out with a
group. Never mind, it was another wi-fi and coffee opportunity. There were lots of House
sparrows and Antillean swifts swooping really low and through the restaurant area. From
here we moved on to la Guira National Park. The road has now been fixed and is perfectly
driveable. We stopped once for a bit of a walk and enjoyed close-up views of the beautiful
Olive-capped warbler. As we continued the scenery became very striking and unlike any we
Page 3 of 25
Ann and Roland Go Birding in Cuba November 2017.pdf
Displaying Ann and Roland Go Birding in Cuba November 2017.pdf.
1
/25
Page 1 of 25
ANN AND ROLAND GO BIRDING IN CUBA
(AGAIN!)
NOVEMBER 18TH
– DECEMBER 3RD, 2017
TRAVEL
We flew from Manchester to Amsterdam then on to Cuba with Air France/KLM. We got a
free upgrade to premium Economy on the flight out and were delighted to be given the
same on the way back!
LOGISTICS
The first time we went to Cuba, we did our own thing employing Angel, El Chino’s brother
for 2 days in Zapata and a birder called Elisir for another 2 days to do the Cayo Coco area.
This time we booked a two week tour with El Chino. It was a mistake
ITINERARY
November 18th. Arrive in Havana
November 19th. Drive to Soroa for overnight stay.
November 20th. Drive to Vinales for 2 nights and to visit La Guira National Park
November22nd. Drive to Playa largo for 4 nights and to explore Zapata
November 27th Drive to Trinidad for overnight stay and to visit El Cubano
November 28th Drive to Sierra de Najasa for 2 night stay at la Belen
November £0th Drive to Cayo Coco for 2 night stay and to bird the cayos
December 2nd Drive to Havana, birding on the way.
DIARY
Saturday, November 18th
.
We arrived in Havana around 21h30. El Chino had said he would pick us up from the airport
but later changed his mind and told us to take a taxi. When we got to the hotel (Vedado) we
dumped our stuff and went to locate him and make arrangements for the following day. The
hotel was “interesting”. That and the taxi were about an extra £100 on top of the cost of the
tour.
Sunday, November 19th
We had breakfast at 7h00 and set off about 30 minutes later. We had a driver, Pepito, for
the whole of our stay. He didn’t speak English but he drove carefully and was always helpful.
Getting out of Havana proved to be easier said than done as there was a Marathon taking
place and the police were out in full force with many road blocks in operation. Eventually we
found a side road to cut through and were on our way. Havana was mostly as I remembered
though I had forgotten just how dilapidated most of the buildings were! We were soon on
the motorway and stopped at Bauta for birds, toilets and coffee. There is a lake next to the
service area and we had soon clocked up quite a few birds including vast numbers of Lesser
scaup. El Chino thought there might have been around 1000. He commented that there
hadn’t been any the previous week. We had our best ever views of Least and Pied-billed
grebe (at least 6) We stopped again to look at a beautiful Red-tailed hawk in flight and
then near the Campismo La Chorrera. It was a brief but very fruitful stop as we saw several
different species including Yellow-throated warbler, Cuban emerald, Loggerhead kingbird,
Page 1 of 25
Page 2 of 25
Cuban peewee, Black-throated blue warbler, American redstart, Northern parula, Grey
catbird and Cuban green woodpecker.
The motorway was just as it had been last time we were here with its lack of traffic and full
complement of cheese sellers and hitch-hikers! At Soroa we had a brief wi-fi stop at the
Horizontes Villa Soroa Hotel and Roland and I got to see a Black and white warbler and a
West Indian Woodpecker. We did not have wi-fi cards so couldn’t use the wi-fi and we
elected not to purchase one at all while we were away. We had lunch at El Salto – the
Louisiana waterthrush was still there! We were serenaded throughout by a local group who
were about as tuneful as me Next we checked into our lovely lodgings: we had our own
little custom built bungalow – just a bedroom and bathroom with a patio but very nice
indeed. There were 2 of these in the grounds of a smallholding set back off the road and it
looked like they were building another one. Pepito drove Roland and I to the Orchid Garden
which we were to bird on our own as El Chino wanted a rest. We didn’t see as many birds as
last time just Western spindalis, Red-legged thrush, Greater Antillean grackle, Cuban
emerald, West indian woodpecker and Palm warbler - but this could have been because of
the time of year. There were some orchids out which was nice but it was incredibly hot.
Later on we went up the hill with El Chino and for a walk along the road and up a track. It
was very pleasant but all too soon we had to turn back as the light was fading. Highlights of
the walk included Great lizard cuckoos, a Cuban trogon, Red-legged honeycreeper and a
Cuban pygmy owl for the men. Fly-overs included Scaly-naped pigeon x2 and Gundlach’s
hawk. There were Turkey vultures everywhere we went today and that set a pattern for the
rest of the holiday!! We had a lovely meal back at the casa (El Alto Mireva – recommended!)
and I was absolutely delighted to find myself sharing the shower with a lovely little tree frog.
Made my day though I was nearly as excited to find a tiny green lizard in there too the
next morning!
American Coot
American Kestrel
American Redstart
Antillean Palm Swift
Black-and-white Warbler
Black-throated Blue Warbler
Black-throated Green Warbler
Common Gallinule
Common Yellowthroat
Cuban Blackbird (Endemic)
Cuban Emerald
Cuban Green Woodpecker (Endemic)
Cuban Oriole (Endemic)
Cuban Pewee
Cuban Pygmy Owl (Endemic)
Cuban Tody (Endemic)
Cuban Trogon (Endemic)
Eurasian Collared Dove
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Great Lizard Cuckoo
Greater Antillean Grackle
Green Heron
Grey Catbird
Page 2 of 25
Page 3 of 25
Gundlach's Hawk (Endemic) - EN
House Sparrow
La Sagra's Flycatcher
Least Grebe
Lesser Scaup
Little Blue Heron
Loggerhead Kingbird
Louisiana Waterthrush
Mourning Dove
Neotropic Cormorant
Northern Mockingbird
Northern Parula
Palm Warbler
Pied-billed Grebe
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Red-legged Thrush
Red-tailed Hawk
Rock Dove
Ruddy Duck
Scaly-naped Pigeon
Smooth-billed Ani
Snowy Egret
Summer Tanager
Turkey Vulture
West Indian Woodpecker
Western Cattle Egret
Western Spindalis
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Yellow-headed Warbler (Endemic)
Yellow-throated Vireo
Yellow-throated Warbler
Monday, November 20th
After breakfast we went down to the hotel for Chino’s wi-fi and to look for Scaly-naped
pigeons. El Chino said he had seen some in the grounds the previous week. Unfortunately
we couldn’t find any though we did see White-winged and White-crowned pigeons and a
Tawny-shouldered blackbird was pointed out. We had excellent views too of a Northern
Flicker. Time to set off for Vinales stopping here and there by patches of water to scan for
waders etc. We were amused by the road signs near Pinar del Rio of a dangerous crossing as
a road actually crosses the motorway at that point! We also saw a couple of bridges that
had been built over the motorway but had no roads at either end! We did an emergency
stop to watch a Belted kingfisher doing what it does best: fishing and as we passed the
Tilapia production lakes on our left we had views of 2 Osprey and a Snail kite through the
windscreen. We saw loads of Snail kite last time we came but not on this trip. We turned off
for the Hotel Mirador de San Diego hoping to see Cesar (bird guide) but he was out with a
group. Never mind, it was another wi-fi and coffee opportunity. There were lots of House
sparrows and Antillean swifts swooping really low and through the restaurant area. From
here we moved on to la Guira National Park. The road has now been fixed and is perfectly
driveable. We stopped once for a bit of a walk and enjoyed close-up views of the beautiful
Olive-capped warbler. As we continued the scenery became very striking and unlike any we
Page 3 of 25
Ann and Roland Go Birding in Cuba November 2017.pdf
Displaying Ann and Roland Go Birding in Cuba November 2017.pdf.
Don't know how that has happened but I will sort it as soon as I can. Many thanks for letting me (Ann) know.
