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Nl Pure focus wheel issue question (1 Viewer)

akadius

Well-known member
United States
Hey everyone, I just received the Nl Pure 8x42. The focus wheel seems smooth throughout most of the clockwise rotation usually, but with counterclockwise there seems to be a slight grainy feeling/a subtle resistance that is felt through most of that rotation (it almost feels like something is rubbing internally). This is still felt though much less and much less consistent for the clockwise.The focusing seems fine from my limited testing. I'm trying to determine if this is normal or not.

On a more positive note, the optics are stunning :)

Any insight by other owners or testers is welcome. Thank you!
 
I had that with my CL8x25's.
It got a bit better with use, but they went back to Swaro for a slight collimation issue, and I asked them to look at the slightly rough focusser at the same time.
Seems fine now.
 
I had that with my CL8x25's.
It got a bit better with use, but they went back to Swaro for a slight collimation issue, and I asked them to look at the slightly rough focusser at the same time.
Seems fine now.
Thank you for responding to my post. I'm not quite sure if I should just hang on to them and send it in if it ever becomes an issue, or go ahead and try to exchange them. If you remember, how long did it take for you to get your binoculars back?
 
Hey everyone, I just received the Nl Pure 8x42. The focus wheel seems smooth throughout most of the clockwise rotation usually, but with counterclockwise there seems to be a slight grainy feeling/a subtle resistance that is felt through most of that rotation (it almost feels like something is rubbing internally). This is still felt though much less and much less consistent for the clockwise.The focusing seems fine from my limited testing. I'm trying to determine if this is normal or not.

On a more positive note, the optics are stunning :)

Any insight by other owners or testers is welcome. Thank you!
This is normal. Here is a short explanation (from an old post): "There is a spring in the mechanism that keeps the focusing lenses synchronized when they move. So, focusing in one direction you are compressing the springs, in the other they are releasing their tension, and so the turning resistance felt by your fingers is not exactly the same." The resistance that you feel when you focus CW vs CCW is not the same for all units (sample variation) but again it's normal.
 
It took about 4 weeks.
Mine are better than they were, but I do occasionally feel it, not all the time, but when I do, it is not as bad as before. So they did something to it.
Certainly not something that concerns me, and if it wasn't for the collimation, I wouldn't have bothered.
I wasn't aware this was an issue, or as it now appears, a NON issue.
Great info thanks PeterPS(y)
 
This is normal. Here is a short explanation (from an old post): "There is a spring in the mechanism that keeps the focusing lenses synchronized when they move. So, focusing in one direction you are compressing the springs, in the other they are releasing their tension, and so the turning resistance felt by your fingers is not exactly the same." The resistance that you feel when you focus CW vs CCW is not the same for all units (sample variation) but again it's normal.
Hey, thank you for sharing this information! That is good and interesting to know. I think I'm going to give it a bit more time and see how they feel. As long as I don't have an outlier set it's fine with me.
 
It took about 4 weeks.
Mine are better than they were, but I do occasionally feel it, not all the time, but when I do, it is not as bad as before. So they did something to it.
Certainly not something that concerns me, and if it wasn't for the collimation, I wouldn't have bothered.
I wasn't aware this was an issue, or as it now appears, a NON issue.
Great info thanks PeterPS(y)
That's good to know. If I ever send them in I'll have to time it so I miss the least amount of birds possible! I'm glad to hear it has been a non issue for you then.
 
This is normal. Here is a short explanation (from an old post): "There is a spring in the mechanism that keeps the focusing lenses synchronized when they move. So, focusing in one direction you are compressing the springs, in the other they are releasing their tension, and so the turning resistance felt by your fingers is not exactly the same." The resistance that you feel when you focus CW vs CCW is not the same for all units (sample variation) but again it's normal.

I am in two minds about the spring-loaded mechanism - on the one hand it adds an extra element of mechanical complexity but on the other hand I have not yet experienced a Swarovski diopter drift in the way that my FLs sometimes do. It's not a major issue and there is something to be said for a simpler system, but with the 8x32 FL especially I almost always need to recalibrate it after I've not used it for a while.
 
My 8x42 NL is extremely smooth and the same force in both directions reminds me of the Nikon EDG I had. Feels totally different than the EL I had which was stiffer in one direction. The NL may be totally different design than the EL with the spring. It sure feels different and better to me.
 
My 8x42 NL is extremely smooth and the same force in both directions reminds me of the Nikon EDG I had. Feels totally different than the EL I had which was stiffer in one direction. The NL may be totally different design than the EL with the spring. It sure feels different and better to me.
Hey Robert, I don't want to go to off topic here but I wanted to ask since we both have the same pair of binoculars and magnification, how are you enjoying the optics of them? Are you happy with the 8x42 as opposed to the 10x42 or 12x42 NL Pures?
 
Hey Robert, I don't want to go to off topic here but I wanted to ask since we both have the same pair of binoculars and magnification, how are you enjoying the optics of them? Are you happy with the 8x42 as opposed to the 10x42 or 12x42 NL Pures?
Hi, yes I am very happy with the NL 8x42 and think it’s the best 8x42 made for me anyway. I wear glasses and don’t see any glare through these that others have seen so they just work perfect for me. I would like to try the 12x but haven’t yet.
 
Hi, yes I am very happy with the NL 8x42 and think it’s the best 8x42 made for me anyway. I wear glasses and don’t see any glare through these that others have seen so they just work perfect for me. I would like to try the 12x but haven’t yet.
That is nice to hear. I am really enjoying mine as well. I had a great birding session this morning with them. I would also like to try the 12s! If you ever do, please report back.
 
Hey Robert, I don't want to go to off topic here but I wanted to ask since we both have the same pair of binoculars and magnification, how are you enjoying the optics of them? Are you happy with the 8x42 as opposed to the 10x42 or 12x42 NL Pures?
I also have NL 8x42 however the focuser works fine for me.

My initial plan was buying an NL 10x42. However, after testing both under the extreme light conditions of that day I decided to go for 8x due to the brightness difference between both pairs and the extremely large FOV of 8x. That time I thought that I cannot see a big magnification difference between them. However over time I got that psychological syndrome of missing extra magnification. I recently bought a Habicht 10x40 GA. I can keep it steady as NL so I see the difference in magnification and details. Now I am also wanting to buy another NL however can’t decide which one to buy. I want to choose between NL 10x32, 10x42 and 12x42.

In several threads I saw 10x32 is the best model among others but I am not sure how much of the difference in brightness between 32 and 42. Habicht 10x is as bright as NL 8x42 even in low light conditions. NL 10x42 reported glare issues. I see some glare in my 8x42 too. Nl 12 have a clear magnification difference between 8x. Although it dose not have the same optical performance as x8 or x10. Currently I have a Canon IS III 12x36 but it lacks the pure view of NL. So it is hard to decide one πŸ˜€ I would also like to hear openions of other members on this topic 😊😊
 
I also have NL 8x42 however the focuser works fine for me.

My initial plan was buying an NL 10x42. However, after testing both under the extreme light conditions of that day I decided to go for 8x due to the brightness difference between both pairs and the extremely large FOV of 8x. That time I thought that I cannot see a big magnification difference between them. However over time I got that psychological syndrome of missing extra magnification. I recently bought a Habicht 10x40 GA. I can keep it steady as NL so I see the difference in magnification and details. Now I am also wanting to buy another NL however can’t decide which one to buy. I want to choose between NL 10x32, 10x42 and 12x42.

In several threads I saw 10x32 is the best model among others but I am not sure how much of the difference in brightness between 32 and 42. Habicht 10x is as bright as NL 8x42 even in low light conditions. NL 10x42 reported glare issues. I see some glare in my 8x42 too. Nl 12 have a clear magnification difference between 8x. Although it dose not have the same optical performance as x8 or x10. Currently I have a Canon IS III 12x36 but it lacks the pure view of NL. So it is hard to decide one πŸ˜€ I would also like to hear openions of other members on this topic 😊😊
Any cheap light bulb is brighter and illuminates you more. With an optical instrument you rather look for
I can no longer read the milkmaid calculations always repeated here in the lay forum with the sheer size/diameter of exit pupils (supposedly brightness, rather pure and insignificant surface area) of binoculars. It depends on the energy content per unit area on the sensor sensitivity, on the number of sensors. The human eye has a point of highest sensitivity (macula) in the retina. If the large exit pupil (and most of its energy) constantly preached by ignoramuses misses the mark??? On the not so sensitive parts of the retina?
You need and look for CONTRASTs.
 
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