Northern Tanzania, Usambara Mountains and Pemba Island (30 Nov - 20th Dec 12) (1 Viewer)

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Trip earlier this year to Papua New Guinea was my choice, and was pretty much full on birding, so this was to be Sarah's pick. Fortunately we had enough Skyward air miles to get to most of Africa or Northen Asia. Having looked at where we could go and at offers available we found that we could get business class returns to Dar Es Salaam so long as we went before the peak Christmas period.

Sarah's requirements were couple of weeks Safari including Ngorongoro and Serengeti with some birding then a week in Zanzibar, after a little bit of persuasion, I added Tarangire and Ndutu and managed to agree some time in the East and West Usambara mountains, Zanzibar could become Pemba for a try at the endemics so long as I could find a good posh resort with Spa etc. This was Mantra Resort which just happened to be near Ngezi forest.

Having worked out a basic itinerary and booked the flights we spoke to a few companies at the Birdfair to see if anyone could make arrangements for us, we wanted a guide in Usambara but were happy with just a driver for the first 10 days as we have both birded quite a lot in East and Southern Africa. We also wanted a half day guiding in Pemba in case we struggled with endemics there.

Greg at Euro Africa Birding put together the best quote, and we then liaised with his cousin Anita (based in Tanzania - LoveLiveAfrica) to finalise arrangements. One attaction over other Tanzanian companies was that LoveLiveAfrica had a UK bank account for payments.

 

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Travelling and first birds

One benefit of business was that as connection was over 6 hours wait we were given a Dubai Connection and put up at Le Meriden Airport hotel, we got 5 hours sleep and first birds in the Hotel garden, White Cheeked Bulbul, Red Rumped Bulbul, Namaqua Dove and Collared Dove. We then caught flight to Dar, where first Tanzanian birds at the airport were Pied Crow, Indian House Crow, House Swift, Glossy Ibis and Cattle Egret. We then caught short flight to Kilimanjaro airport and met up with driver for the next two weeks; Richard.
Accommodation for two nights would be Adahi Lodge in Arusha a very pleasant base in a secure compound not very far from the main road. Best thing about the lodge was actually the packed lunches which were much better than all the standard fair from the other lodges.

Our full day in Arusha had involved a choice, go to the National Park for variety of birds and animals or go to the lark fields 45k north of Arusha for Beasley and other larks. We decided on variety not least because we weren't completely sure on best location for the lark and we could try later for them after doing some research. So off to Arusha NP it was for first serious wildlife and bird watching

 

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Arusha NP

Arusha offered some mountain forest, a bit of savannah, a little mini volcanic crater and some fresh water and salt pans, a really good introduction to Tanzania. We had high hopes of some life time birds, particularly some in the mountains at the edge of the caldera and a gentle reintroduction to some big game.
At the entrance area we got first couple of lifers a Spot-flanked Barbet then a beautiful Tacazze Sunbird, that was followed swiftly by some more common birds that are always good to see; Cinnamon Chested Bee-eater, White Fronted Bee-eater, Green Pigeon, Grey-headed Kingfisher and Speckled Mousebird amongst the best. We also saw large numbers of Giraffe, Warthogs and Impala in the central area.
Up to the crater edge and in the mountain forest we quickly got Mountain Greenbul, Mountain White eye and White-eyed Salty Flycatcher all firsts alongside Black and White Colobus and Blue Monkeys. On the crater floor there were Buffalo and Zebra and in the air Augur and Mountain Buzzard.

We then decided to have lunch by the pools, first the fresh water where there was plenty about, highlights were Macao duck, Cape and Red-billed teal, Hammerkop, Southern Pickard and White-backed Duck with plenty of waders, including: Wood Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stint, Avocet and Three-banded Plover. It was then over to the salt area where there were impressive numbers of Greater and Lesser Flamingo and interest from an African Fish Eagle and two White-necked Ravens. It was now mid afternoon and we decided to try the forest for Turaco and Hornbill ( heard but not seen) but we did get two lifers Mountain Yellow Warbler and Wallberg's Honeyguide along with a lovely view of Red Duiker.

It was then back to the mini Serengeti area where we saw Reedbuck, Waterbuck, Bushbuck and the biggest herd of Giraffes I think we had ever seen. Birds in this part of the park included Long-tailed and Winding Cisticola, Tropical Brubru,White-headed Sawwing, African Hoopoe and Baglafecht's Weaver, before we got great views of a Kirk's DikDik.

Back to Arusha for Dinner and beer, we agreed an early start for Tarangire where tomorrow we hoped to get a few Endemics

 

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Tarangire NP (Monday 3rd December)

I had chosen Tarangire rather than some of the more well known parks as it was meant to be one the easiest places to see some Tanzanian endemics such as Ashy Starling, Yellow Collared Lovebird, Usamiro Barbet and Rufous Tailed Weaver. It was also at the southern edge of some range restricted species. In addition like nearby Lake Manyara it was said to be a good place to see Tree Climbing Lions.

Well first impressions were certainly good, before Richard had even finished booking us into the park I had found some Ashy Starling near the toilet block and then saw a flock of Yellow Collared Lovebird fly over. There was also Hildebrand and Superb Starling in good numbers. Then before we were even a mile into the park we had Usambiro Barbet and Von Der Decken Hornbill and every bush seemed to have gorgeous Lilac Breasted Rollers sitting waiting to be photographed.

A good selection of birds of prey included Brown Snake Eagle, Long Crested Eagle, Bateleur, Pallid Harrier and Steppe Eagle

However, the closest we got to a tree climbing lion was a female member of the pride who had here leg held up against the tree while she slept.
Other wildlife included 100's of Elephant, Black backed Jackal, Hyena, Impala, Wildebeast, Zebra, Buffalo and Dwarf and banded Mongoose.

The birds just kept coming as we went into the riverine area, White-headed and Red Billed Buffalo Weavers, Southern Cordon Bleau, Stiped, Grey-headed and Brown-hooded Kingfishers, Red and Yellow Barbet, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Green-backed Woodpecker, Silverbird, Black-lored and Northern Pied Babblers and lots of more challenging birds like Cisticola's and Prinias. Amongst the shrikes the most common were Common Fiscal, Magpie, Northern White-crowned and Isabelline and some African and Red-billed Firefinch and on exit our first Rufous-tailed Weavers

Overnight was at the Maramboi Tented Camp outside the NP on the banks of Lake Manyara, so we could make a shorter trip to Ngorongoro wildlife area tomorrow.


I'll try to post a few photos later now that I've just finished my Christmas travels and can get access to my PC.

 

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First photos

First few photos

 

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Nest set of Photos

Some more from first few days including some familar birds from UK

 

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Ndutu in Ngorongoro Conservation area (4th Dec)

We had to go into Ngorongoro conservation area and drive past the crater even though Ndutu is actually considered by most guides and wildlife people to be in the Southern tip of Serengeti, so you have to time arrival in and out of Ngorongoro and Serengeti park areas to minimise the fees, Richard had us signing in and out at 10.06 on various days as that was our time of first arrival.
The area to sign in is actually very useful with a scaled map of the whole area showing where we were going to be visiting and the huge scale of everything, we actually enjoyed it more after doing Ndutu, Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater so we could put our travels into perspective.
The town just before the entrance is actually the last place to buy decently priced water, change money and get fuel at a reasonable rate, so we filled up both tanks to minimise spend in the park areas.

In the tree at the entrance while checking in there is also the chance for some birding and wildlife watching, we managed to see Red-chested Cuckoo, Moustached Tinkerbird (lifer) and Cinnamon Chested Bee-eater as well as Blue Monkey.

It was then onto a road round the crater, where we could look in, but each entrance to the crater costs $200 so we would only be going down once, (when we are staying at the crater). Nevertheless worth a look down to see distant, Elephant, Rhino and Buffalo.
Once past the crater the road gets very bumpy and dusty (the short rains hadn't yet happened) but this was a great area for larks and wheatears and I was soon getting Richard to stop about every 5 minutes. The stars for us were Fischer's and Chesnut-basked Sparrow Larks (new) and Pink-breasted, Fawn-Coloured, Singing Bush and Red-capped larks.. The Wheatears included, Capped, Northern, Pied and Isabelline.

We took lunch under a tree just a few miles from Ndutu area, in the tree was a young Sooty Falcon and nearby an Eastern Chanting Goshawk. The grass had reasonable numbers of Grant's and Thomson Gazelle but despite scanning no sign of lion or cheetah. On driving down to the salt lake, the water levels were very low and visible were huge heeps of skulls from the last migration where lions and hyenas had obviously feasted on Buffalo, Wildebeast and Zebra, but instead of 1000s of animals there were just a few buffalo and in the distance 10's of zebra and wildabeast. The short rains are due to start in Novmber and go on until end of Dec, but based on the dust and water levels it was clear they hadn't started yet. So there wasn't the waiting carnivores just yet, Richard said they would come across once the Zebra had reacted to the first rains and begun to move in.

We then had our first minor problem of the trip, as we were climbing a small hill to get a better view of a Bearded Woodpecker, and a Lesser Spotted Eagle on the bank there was a huge bang and I was covered in glass, the back window of the Landcruiser had blown in as if hit by a rock, but nothing seemed to hit it. I was at the back with the scope and camera gear but fortunately apart from a few minor cuts and scrapes I was unhurt. Richard and Sarah thought that I had hit the window with the tripod or camera when they heard the bang but when they saw all the glass had blown in and it was at the other side of the vehicle to where I had the scope and tripod, they realised it had just caved in under pressure. Anyway, to cut a long story short we just declared the back seats out of use and got on with our drive to the lodge with some spotting on the way. Pretty good it was too as we added
Abdim's Stork, Hammerkop, Black-shouldered Kite, Lappet-face Vulture, Crested Francolin, Arrow-marked Babbler, Lesser Grey Shrike and Rufous Sparrow.
After checking in Richard went off to clean up and repair the vehicle, while we tried some birding from the lodge. Without walking more than a few hundred meters we added Hildebrand's and Superb Starling, Fischer's Lovebirds, Speckle-fronted and spectacled Weaver, Slaty Colured Boubou before sitting down on the chairs in front of our room to scan for big game.
Elaphant, Buffalo and giraffe we all seen before we spotted some really unusual behaviour, Rufous-tailed weavers were doing some nest building, but suddenly a large flock of Lovebirds starting flying into the nests and then a Pearl-spotted Owlet began raiding the nexts and chasing the lovebirds or at least that's how it seemed to us.
The Owlet then landed in the tree beside us and annoyed a family of 4 Grey Wodpeckers who had been there for the last half hour.

Finally time for dinner and luckily as we had hoped one of the local Spotted Genet's was in the roof of the lodge.

 

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3 Coursers before Breakfast - Ndutu area (5th Dec)

Richard had managed to repair the window with some hardboard and polythene and most of the glass was cleared so we were ready for an early morning game drive, out in the dark before breakfast was our choice for today, we had made clear to Richard that we didn't want to go chasing what other people had seen (so we wouldn't listen to the radio) we would see what we could see and concentrate on trying to see some of the birds that would be active early on.

That meant stopping Richard twice for Crowned Plovers when I was looking for cousers but third time lucky we were on Double-banded Courser (lifer) then next stop one of my favourite birds a Temmink's Courser, before the thirds and probably best a Heuglin's (three-banded) Courser another lifer, I don't know what it is about coursers but they are amongst my favourite birds so a great mroning even before we added in Montague and Palid harrier, Crested francolin, Kori Bustard and Yellow-throated Sandgrouse.

The other wildlife included good views of Elephant, Buffalo and Giraffe and a lovely lone cheetah who had clearly just fed.

It was then back for Breakfast and a day around the lodge before an afternoon game drive. Birds around the lodge included Fischers Loverbirds, African Cuckoo, Green Wood Hoopoe, Silverbird, Cape Batis and Beautiful Sunbird.
And good new as we sat on the balcony it rained, only for about thirty minutes and fairly gentle here but we could see thunder and lightening and what look like like very heavy rain over the Serengeti.

In the afternoon, we started with a minor embarassment, Richard stopped the car and pointed, without raising our bins or even looking closely we both dismissed the bird in the tree as another Northen White Crowned Shrike, they were on every group of trees, but Richard suggested we look and we found that we were dismissing a fluffed up Pygmy Falcon a lovely little bird.

We then saw a Speckled Mousebird, Little Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, and White-bellied and Kori Bustard before heading up the dry grassland area towards the river. I managed to spot a family of Bat-eared foxes, this was a bit of a bogey anaimal for us as we had missed them several times on previous trips. Although the sun was wrong for photos this afternnon we did spot several other groups so I have some photos later. We also had a nice pride of lions, 3 black backed jackals, a huge herd of buffalo, the first Steinbok (Sarah called it as a Lion somehow!!) and loads of warthogs and giraffes.
At the river there were quite a number of waders and other birds drinking amonst them Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, African Spoonbill, Lesser Flamingo, Egyptian geese, Kittlitz's Plover, Ethiopian Snipe, Little Stint, Avocet and Sacred Ibis while on the trees nearby were Black-chested Snake Eagle, loads of Steppe Eagles, Augur Buzzard, Tawny Eagle and a few Long Crested Eagles, only vultures we were able to ID were Hooded and White-backed although from later observation I'm sure we missed 3 others that day.
Finally back to the lodge just before dark where the Pearl Spotted Owlet was again active and a African Citril was drinking with the Fischer's Lovebirds.

 

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other photos

Coursers

 

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Leave Ndutu and onto to Serengeti (6th Dec)

First lie in of the trip, 7.00am breakfast then pack up and have a last look round Ndutu area, we need to check out at Ranger hut just a few KM from the lodge at 10.06. We can then bird the road into Serengeti before officially entering the park at noon.

Quite a good last day Nubian Woodpecker, Grey (which subsequently told is now split as) African Grey-headed Woodpecker, African Quail Finch in with huge flock of Qulela and Waxbills, Blue-naped Mousebird, there types of Sandgrouse all in the same area of grassland Yellow Throated(seen before) but two new species Black-faced and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse and White-headed and Lappet-faced Vulture. We also saw the Cheetah again but she was pretty inactive just lying in some shade.
Although it had rained yesterday Ndutu was still pretty dry but there was at least some evidence that migration had started with zebra and wildebeast now arriving in small numbers, it would much later before numbers would peak but at least the Serengeti had seen some rain so our hopes were up.

On the road to the Serengeti Park entrance we saw large numbers of Thomson and Grant's Gazelle and a huge number of larks with Flappet, Fawn Coloured, White-tailed and both Fischer's and Chestnut sparrow larks in good number. Then we spotted a Schalow's Wheatear another lifer and Bush and Striped Pipits.

At the entrance to the park there is a pic-nic area and some toilets and a walk to a view point. Just some Black Kites and a pretty Pink-headed Agama seen. We decided it was too early for lunch (also really busy and unattractive at the site) so we decided to head into the park and eat our packed lunch later. A good call because when we approached the first Kopje Richard spotted three male lions on the move. We were able to watch these really pale maned males all alone as no-one else seemed to be coming into the park. We mananged to get lots of good photos and video with no background noise as the lions arranged themselves in the rocks to wait for prey species going through.
The grass was much greener here and the herds of zebra and wildebeast were starting to move. I calculated that at least 10,000 zebra and 6,000 wildebeast went through our area that afternoon. Richard said that Zebra smell the rain and fresh grass and always arrive first but other numbers would grow.
We soon spotted another mail lion and then a 4 more females so it looked like the carnivores were also on the move.

On the birding front we quickly got Martial eagle, Tawny Eagle, African Goshawk and Pallid Harrier before I looked closely at a Spurfowl and realised it was a Grey-necked Spurfowl a Tanzanian Edemic. At one of the pools and on the Seronera river there were numerous hippos and we also saw Eland, Hartebeast, Reedbuck, Dikdik, Buffalo and Giraffe.

Near the lodge we were staying at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge we saw Purple Grenadier (new) and Red Headed Weaver.

After we checked in we discussed plans for next day, we decided to do an early drive out before 6, back for breakfast after 9.00. However lodge couldn't seem to believe that we might not be back for breakfast by 9.00 at the latest. Q "Why would you possibly be late for breakfast"? A "We might see a kill or a new bird or some other exciting event that means we could be late", "i don't understand we finish breakfast at 9", "so can we have a packed breakfast" - no only packed lunches. Anyway the end state was they would put some coffee on for us and another couple going out early prior to 6 (it wasn't there) and they would keep breakfast which was buffet out for a bit longer (they kept it going until 9.30). It just seeemed really odd that a wildlife lodge in one of the premier wildlife spots in the world didn't understand that people might not want to tear themselves away to have food.
It looked like most people on organised tours had breakfast and went out with a packed lunch for the day around 8.00.

Anyway dinner was very good and they had a good selection of South African wines at a very good price so the lodge redeemed itself a bit in our eyes.

 

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More photos

Some birds

 

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Pictures

And some animals

 

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Serengeti (7th Dec)

Up and ready to leave by 5.50, unfortunately coffee agreed with staff yesterday is not ready, other couple waited for it and told it arrived at 6.15.

Down to Seronera river crossing and first bird is a really close up view of Heuglin's Courser, also Grey-necked Francolin (spurfowl), and Grey Hornbill , there were huge numbers of Zebra, Wildebeast and Buffalo on the move. So we got over to the first area of open plain as quickly as we could. 9 Lions were close to the road including 6 adorable cubs playing with their mothers, then another 3 male lions just ambling along.
We then stopped at the pools where there was Hammerkop, White Stork, Gull billed Tern, White-winged Black-tern and Egyptian Geese and Black-crowned Night, Grey and our first Goliath Heron of the trip.

We then stopped on the open plains where there were tens of thousand of Zebra and Wildebeast just grazing quietly; I then saw something I've never seen before in the middle of all the zebra were a pride of 6 lions (3 male, 3 females) just lying on the ground with a circle of zebra probably 15m away completely surrounding them, the nearest zebra were alert but didn't seem too worried while the lions just lay there, the only movement being an occasional tail swish. There was no obvious sign of a recent kill but Richard thought they must have something hidden in the grass as they clearly weren't interested in hunting at this time. Nevertheless we decided to just hang around for an hour or so hoping that they would make an opportunistic kill or at least try for one, but an hour later still nothing. So we headed back for breakfast, where they had kept the buffet out and only took it way after checking with us after 9.30.

Intention was to go back out after a short rest but by 10.30 it was raining pretty heavily, and it didn't look like a short shower. So we agreed to stick around the lodge until after lunch.
The Serengeti Sopa is actually pretty well placed on a high ridge to look down on the plains and see some of the movement that was now taking place from the comfort of our balcony. We also watched some birds like Bare-faced Go awaybird, Nyanza Swift, Long-tailed Fiscal from the dry.

So we finally decided to go back out around 15.00 but with the roof down as it was still raining a little. We stopped for the 9 lions with cubs and decided to risk putting the roof up. So we could photograhs and scan the plains.

Richard spotted a newly killed Tommy but there was no sign of the Cheetah who had made the kill we speculated that a couple of nearby Hyena had scared it off. We made for the rocky areas in the hope of Leopard and to see some Rock Art, we saw Ruppel's Long-tail Starling, and Cliff Chat but no Leopard despite this being a regular haunt, Richard thought they were probably in thick cover sheltering from the drizzle and we then found another reason for the possible absence of leopards, 4 lions with cubs near the cave, so we wouldn't be getting out to see the Art work.

Drive back saw rain finally go off and a little bit of activity amongst the smaller birds Cistocola's seen included Stout, Rattling and Long-tail, whilst we also saw Green-backed eremomela and Grey-backed Fiscal and near to the Lodge Black Coucal, Green Pigeon and Woodland Kingfisher.

Vultures drying off in the various trees were Hooded, White-headed, White-backed and Lappet-faced while other birds of prey now active included Bateleur, Brown Snake Eagle, Kestrel. Lesser Kesterel and Pygmy Falcon.

Then a last lifer of the day a not very exciting Grey-headed Silverbill with a flock of common waxbills.

In all we saw 25 adult lions today the most I've ever seen in a single day and at least 19,000 zebra and 25,000 wildebeast going through.

 

[dandsblair]

Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater via Oldvui Gorge

We had some quite heavy rain during the night, so although we didn't leave until after breakfast (around 8.00), on the way to breakfast we found a Brown Parrot in the trees where the Red-headed Weavers were nesting, we were actually the first vehicle to brave the muddy track just after the river. Richard got us through the mud pretty easily and we had time for a last drive before getting to the park gate by 12.06 (two hours later than before).

Last game drive gave us more lions, zebra, wildebeast and buffalo in growing numbers with smaller number of Hartebeast, Topi, Eland and both Thompson and Grant's Gazelle. There was also banded and dwarf mongoose and plenty of elephants, giraffe and Spotted Hyena.

Amonst the birds were Ostrich, Black Shouldered Kite, Secretary bird, Bateleur, Grey Necked Francolin, Kori and White bellied bustard, Crowned Lapwing, Fischers Lovebirds, and our first African Pygmy Kingfisher of the trip.

We then visited Oldvui Gorge, the famous site where the Leakey's and others had found our ancestors, very worthwhile hour spent there with a little museum with a cast of the earliest footsteps ever recorded by homo erectus and skulls and tools from the various stages of our evolution.

We then headed to a rest area on the crater edge, to have lunch. Where there were plenty of Maribou Stork, Black Kites trying to steal food from Russian tourists and in the bushes a lifer in the form of a Ruppel's Robin Chat.

Having set of for the Ngorongoro Sopa Crater lodge ( we had chosen it as it had a private road which allows you go down into the crater from before the park officially opensd at 07.00) we didn't have to wait long for our next new bird a beautiful Hartlaub's Turaco fling into a roadside tree. I also got one in the scope from our room but Sarah missed this better view. When we got to the lodge we quickly unpacked and went for a walk within the grounds and staff area. We were at an altitude of 8000 feet and it was a little steep so slowly, slowly was the order of the day, but in any event as we had Tacazze, Bronze(lifer) and Northern Double Collared Sunbirds flitting about in the flowers just outside our room we didn't mind just sitting on the wall to catch our beadth. Other good birds here included Yellow-bellied Greenbul, African Dusky Flycatcher, Speke's Weaver (L), Jackson's Widowbird, Red-naped Widow, Streaky Seedeater, White-rumped Swift and Speckled Pigeon.

And as we headed back we spotted then heard a Tree Hyrax.
Tomorrow we hoped would be a great day as since we first came to Africa (kenya over 20 years ago) we had wanted to visit the Ngorongoro Crater. I arranged with Richard and the Lodge that we would take a packed breakfast and lunch and get into the crater as soon as they would let us, effectively when staff got to the gate, so we would hopefully have at least sometime where we were the only people down in the crater.

 

[dandsblair]

Ngorongoro Crater (9th December)

Last day of big game viewing and it was Ngorongoro.
We left the lodge with our packed meals just after 6.00 and the good news was that when we got to the park gate on the private road staff were already present so we were able to get in without any wait. So we headed down through the forest and into the crater and we managed to get at least 45 minutes in the crater before we saw the next vehicle come in. We were so glad that we had taken the advice in Brandt and got down in time to have the crater to ourselves.
The crater is said to have the highest density of zebra and wildebeest in Africa and the greatest concentration of predators. After our time at the Serengeti it was difficult to judge concentration levels but it was an excellent place for viewing and being outside peak times not very busy. Even at the peak of the days I don' t think we saw more than 10 vehicles in any one area of the park (and visibility is good).

Most numerous were Wildebeest and Zebra, with pretty high numbers of spotted hyena and quite a few lions, we only saw one Cheetah, but all three Jackals including Golden and Side Striped which were new for the trip were seen. We only saw 3 Black Rhino, a male and a female and youngster perhaps we should have gone to the forest first but there were large numbers of elephants pretty much all of them old males with huge tusks, mongoose, hippo, bat eared fox, Hartebeest, Eland, Bush hare and loads of Warthogs.

Waterbirds were pretty good with Pink-backed Pelican, Lesser and Greater Flamingo, Yellow billed, Abdim's, Black, saddle-billed and White Stork, Crowned Crane, Sacred, Hadada and Glossy Ibis, African Spoonbill, Spur-winged Goose, Hotentot teal, Little Rush Warbler and African Fish Eagle in the swamp area and by the hippo pools.

In the Grassland there was Kori, Black Bellied and Hartlaub's Bustard and the lovely Rosy-breasted Longclaw, we also saw in a dry area Desert Cisticola (wasn't expecting that here), Zitting Cisticola, Brown-winged Lapwing, Yellow Throated Sandgrous and 1000's of Yellow Wagtails.
Chats included Cliff Chat, Northern Ant Chat, Cape Robin Chat, Capped Wheatear and Northern Wheater.

Near the picnic site we also saw Spekes and Rufous Tailed Weaver, Fantailed Widowbird, Blackfaced waxbill and black kite.

Birds of prey included Brown Snake Eagle, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Montagues Harrier, Augur Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture and Hooded Vulture

After spending most of the day in the crater we decided to do some late birding in the forest near the crater edge here we saw Speckled Pigeon, Namaqua Dove, Black Coucal, Broad Billed Roller, White-browned robin chat, Grey Apalis, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Bronze Sunbird, Streaky and Yellow-rumped Seedeaters.

During the course of the day we also saw Little, Mottled, and African Black Swifts.

In all over 90 bird species and 21 animals were seen in and around the crater. So I guess it did live up to expectations.

 

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Ngorongo to Arusha (10th Dec)

Mainly a travel day today although we had time for a quick stroll around the lodge grounds and an occasional stop enroute.

Despite looking almost at every flowering plant over the 3 days in the area I still hadn't seen a Golden-winged Sunbird a target bird for this part of the trip, this morning was no different as we saw Bronze, Tacazze, Double Coloured and Malachite Sunbirds but no golden winged also about were Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Wire-tailed Swallow, Cape Robin Chat, Speckled Pigeon, Black necked, Baglafect Weavers and Red-collared Widowbird and viewing into the crater Elephant, Buffalo, Baboon, Wildebeest and Zebra.

8.00 and it was time to leave we had just boarded the vehicle and moved about 10 yards when I cried stop, in the agapanthus just outside lodge was a wonderful male Golden-winged Sunbird what a cracker, we got good views and even managed a little bit of video (I'll try to post it later).

So we left Ngorongoro in good spirits at the various stops on the way back we added Giraffe, Vervet and Blue Monkey and birds included Tropical Boubou, Beautiful Sunbird, Rufous tailed and Chestnut Weaver, yellow rumped seedeater, White Wagtail, African Mourning Dove, Lilac breasted roller, Magpie and Fiscal Shrike, Superb Starling, Cape Robin Chat and Cattle Egret.

As we a got to about 50Km from Arusha we had a choice to make; go for the Beesley and other larks (we now knew roughly where to go) or visit a charity project www.shanga.org which supports people with various disabilities in the area, a look at the sky and the impending rain plus the fact that Sarah has supported a number of similar charities meant we went to Shanga. It was actually a good expereince and we managed to stock up on a few Christmas gifts made by the people we met at a very reasonable price.

On to Arusha where we met up with Anita to let her know how all the arrangements had gone and to finalise the arrangement to meet up with our guide for Usambara.

I've been asked by a few people why Usambara Mountains, and not Udzungwa or Ulguru, for us it was proximity to tourist areas (Arusha and Tanga), better infrastructure and perhaps most importantly availability of local guides.

We used Victor Mkongewa ([email protected]), Victor is a researcher and knows the Anmani area best but also guides in the Western Usambara and has been doing research into the Ulguru Bush Shrike so also knows that area well, he also has done some work in Udzungwa.
We found Victor really excellent on song but a little too reliant on playback but that is obviously his method and he did get us some really good birds.
Victors rates are also very reasonable and much better than when we looks at using a guide from one of the larger companies, we paid $30 US per person per day (about £36 a day in total), which was also the rough rate we paid in Pemba for Jacob. Victor also does booking and arranges accommodation for the research centre at Amani and is trying to set up his own camp.

I don't think Victor has transport so you could rely on local lifts etc or use someone like Richard (actually his name is Rishael contactable at [email protected]) or use LoveLiveAfrica to book it all for you and just pay locally.

Will do Usambara update later.

 

[dandsblair]

Usambara Mountains

Drive from Arusha to Mombo (about 3 hours) was pretty uneventful and no new birds seen. We met up with Victor at Liverpool Service area in Mombo, seems to be a regular meeting place amongst guides and drivers and is also the bus station for people coming from Dar, Arusha and Tanga so a useful place to quote if making arrangements to meet up.

The drive up to Lushoto and Mullers Mountain Lodge, gave us a few birds, Cliff Chat, Red winged Starling, White-necked Raven, Alpine Swift and then in the grounds of the lodge we saw our first Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Usambara Weaver and Mountain Wagtail a good start. We agreed to meet up at 16.00 to explore the fist bit of forest. Unfortunately as we met up jsut outside the lodge the heaven's opened and in 10 minutes where we were standing was now a small stream. Victor suggested we go along the river and try for some birds but it was clear that despite hearing a few calls the torential rain was putting most things off and even when we did get something new Red-capped Forest Warbler(African Tailorbird) and Usambara Double-banded Sunbird the sighting were not great and it was all we could do to keep our cameras etc jsut about try in there packs.
Nevertheless we tried for Hartlaub's Turaco, Usambara Akalat, White-thoated Alethe and Spot-throat - all of which we heard in response to tape, but nothing was seen. The only thing that showed was a Montane White-eye and a White-browed Robin Chat.
As it was getting dark and any chance of an owl or nightjar was ruined by the rain we headed back and chanegd out of our soaked clothing. The rooms at Mullers are pretty basic but at least there was warm water and umbrellas to at least get us down to dinner dry.

After a good dinner we arranged to meet at 5.45 for a walk around the same area. Fortunately the rain had died down and then stopped before we set off, however I left my camera locked in the case as the camera bag, backpack and camerapac were all soaked and needed drying off and I wasn't sure it was going to stay dry. Typical the sun started to shine, it stayed dry and we saw some great birds, we started with Mountain and Stripe-cheeked Greenbul(l) then saw a lovely White-starred Robin and then two target birds for the area both seen really well the White-chested Alethe and the Spot-throat a georgeous little bird with a really long drawn out whistle. The birds kept coming with Blue-mantled crested Flycatcher, African Paradise Flycatcher, Pale-breasted Iladopses, and Yellow-throated Woodland warbler all seen well before breakfast and on the way back to the lodge two Usambaro Chamelion (horned and double horned).

After breakfast we were off to new Magamba Reserve (the old sawmill road and track is now a managed reserve with a small fee (less than £8 for us and vehicle to enter). As it was quite a trek we decided that we would do the trip safari style with the roof up and us birding from the vehicle. It started off pretty well with good views of a Bar-tailed Trogon, Black headed Apalis,, then the really tricky Evergreen Forest warbler without too much difficulty. However when Victor called the Usambara Weaver from various look-out points there was no response and despite trying all the way up to the highest point then back again the best we got was a couple of distant calls and no sightings. To cheer us up we did get very good views of Fulleborn's Black Boubou, Black-fronted Bushshrike and Yellow-streaked and Yellow-bellied Greenbul. It was back to the Lodge for lunch and we saw Waller's Starling and Bronze Manikin on the way.

Late afternoon was to be a try for the Akalat and if time permited Thrush and Nightjar. Victor knew a spot for Usambara Akalat but the bird was a real skulker and it took repeated playback (I was getting uncomfortable with how often we tried) before the bird decided to break cover and show him self albeit it only briefly. Then in the same bush we saw a Usambara Thrush (now split from Olive and looks totally different). Unfortunately despite being a dry and wind free evening there were no Nightjars to be seen.

Still a pretty good day and after yesterday's wash-out a huge relief.

 

[Dan_ZCM]

Great pictures and narrative, looks like an amazing trip!!

 

[dandsblair]

thanks Dan

It was a great trip and what surprised me most was how accesible the Usambara Mountains were, I had a a vision of a very remote area with some very rarely seen birds, but it is only 3 or 4 hours from Kilimanjaro Airport and 1 hour from Tanga.

 

[Jon Turner]

A very long time ago..... probably 1961 when my father was based at RAF Nairobi we were lucky enough to have a holiday on Zanzibar and on the way we flew (in a Dakota!) from Mombasa via a small dirt runway somewhere in the Usumbara mountains. It may well have been Mombo. Sadly as an 8 year old it was just an adventure and my birdwatching passion wasn't kindled for many years to come. Looking at your report I can see what I missed grrrrrr!! Great report. Maybe one of these days......