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Travels with Mildred (In search of Canis lupus) (2 Viewers)

Evening pix:

Beaver
Great Gray Owl X 3 Note radio aerial in third pic: they're introduced you know..... ;)
Beaver

John
 

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Day 4 - Wednesday

We upped and out early, heading for Pilgrim Creek Road, which was another site given to us by the helpful guide. There was a short flurry of excitement when Steve forgot to drive on the right but he was issued a crisp, not to say squawked, reminder and road safety was restored. We stopped for a quick look at Flat Creek: the Trumpeters were in site but distant and the light was rubbish. As we passed the well-known landmark of Oxbow Bend we could see a White Pelican and a great Blue Heron, neither close enough to justify a stop.

We managed to spot Pilgrim Creek Road in time to stop and turn onto it. It took only a minute to find the landmark pond on the right of the gravel road (which lacked the regular Moose visitor) and we were able to park up and wait for the promised regular Coyote hunting the open meadow. Unfortunately it hadn't read the script and was no doubt tucked up in a nice warm den with its nose under its bushy tail, while we shivered in the early morning chill and scanned the bushes for birds.

For once there were a few around, with Yellow Warblers flitting quickly through, American Robins in some numbers and a tick in the shape of a Warbling Vireo. Hurrah! The pond had a family of three Spotted Sandpipers and a Lesser Yellowlegs parading around its edges, and both Northern Rough-winged and Violet-green Swallows feeding over the water.

A long wait, and an excursion to the far end of the gravel road, failed to produce anything new though a couple of Sandhill Cranes and a Red-tailed Hawk were appreciated. Eventually we gave up and headed for Jackson Lake Lodge in search of breakfast, to find that many other people had the same idea!

We managed to fit in along the long zig-zag breakfast bar and order breakfast. The weather had deteriorated into showers so being indoors wasn't a big issue. Maz and I bought some postcards, hoping to find time at some point to write them. Old-fashioned these days I know, but I like getting them so I make sure to send them too.

We carried on to the unfortunately named String Lake which we had been told was a cert for Gray Jay. The sky was now very dark but we investigated the area near the car park and sure enough came up with a bunch of Gray Jays (tick), which wouldn't pose, kept hiding in thick conifers, called mockingly and then flew off just as the heavens opened. Just before rushing back to the car to take shelter we connected briefly with a couple of Ruby-crowned Kinglets (also tick) that showed badly up against the light. All very frustrating, we grumbled to each other while waiting for the huge splashing drops and rumbling thunder to cease. Not only that but there was a habituated family of Mule Deer - doe and two spotty fawns - wandering among the tourists, and signs all over the place warning about the Black Bear that frequented the area. No time to be stuck in the car!

Eventually the storm passed over and we hopped out again to resume birding. The Gray Jays were long gone but the Kinglets were still knocking about, resolutely showing badly either by hiding in the foliage or showing high against what light there was. With some difficulty we managed to get some features on them, but it was hopeless for photography. A very brief Western Tanager didn't do itself justice, but some Oregon Juncos and Chipping Sparrows showed well until we waved our cameras vaguely in their direction, at which point they went all coy. The bear, needless to say, failed to appear.

We decided to give up on this area and return to Moose-Wilson Road to look for the Great Gray Owl in better light than the previous evening. In fact, by the time we reached the turnout by the overlook, the sun was out, although there were still some seriously threatening clouds loitering in the area.

Following the trail along the bluff edge produced birds and some chipmunks, which a bit of study led us to believe were Yellow-pine Chipmunks. They showed well and we got good pictures, so if anyone thinks differently let us know once I've put one or two up. Black-capped and Mountain Chickadees were present but like every other bird today, doing their best to deny us photos. A Red Squirrel bucked the odds and gave great views at close range.

On the pond below several Cinnamon Teal were making their way through the willows, incidentally making photography, you've guessed it, difficult. It was now hot, and the early start, several days' efforts and frustration combined to require an afternoon nap for some members of the party.I kept prowling, without much result: then another thunderstorm started to loom and we made our way back to the car and then to Antelope Flats hoping to get some awesome Bison pictures. The Bison had decided not to be close to the road and weren't really anywhere they could be set in a scenic photo either. However, a very traditional, rustic farm was ideally placed to be foreground interest in a pic of the Grand Teton range so we wandered that way and then noticed a couple of ladies photographing something close and on the ground. Interesting. We investigated and found Uinta Ground Squirrels tazzing round our feet, not to mention Mountain Bluebirds and Cliff Swallows quite tolerant of camera-toting humans. We made considerable hay around the animals and birds, then repaired to Flat Creek where the Trumpeters were showing well again and a couple of Yellow-headed Blackbirds were sitting up in the reedbed just across the creek.

Not long after this a full-blooded thunderstorm began crashing and completely washed out the rest of the afternoon. Rivers were running down the roads, the rain was coming down in great gouts, huge lumps of water blatting down on everything and everybody fool enough to stick their noses out of cover.

We had a discussion about where to eat, and eventually decided on The Rustic Inn, which was just on the edge of town near Flat Creek. It was a mistake. Service was unconscionably slow and the prices were not matched to the quality of the food: nothing wrong with the food, but not as high-quality as they seemed to think. Beer was good but also expensive. As we were moving on again on the morrow we tried to knock off early and just about managed it.

John
 
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Great report so far John. Not sure I would have risked a prawn curry in bear country though:eek!:

Rich

Not sure I would either, not that it was an issue, the only things labelled "curry" were in fact just Thai sweet chilli assemblages. Nice though.

The day I've just described was that day you get on most trips, where its just hard graft for not very much from sun-up to sundown. You just have to grit your teeth and keep going, and hope that tomorrow will be better. It usually is.....

John
 
Very jealous of your Great Gray Owl. I would definitely say that qualifies as a mesa, and if you are keeping track of domesticated animals, you have mules mixed in with your horses!
 
Very jealous of your Great Gray Owl. I would definitely say that qualifies as a mesa, and if you are keeping track of domesticated animals, you have mules mixed in with your horses!

Well spotted. However, introduced hybrids..... yeuch!

I guess you'll be leaping into the car at the weekend and heading for Moose-Wilson Road for Great Gray Owl by Sawmill Ponds, then.......

John
 
Day Four pix

Mule Deer X 2
Dark-eyed (Oregon) Junco
Yellow-pine Chipmunk X 2

John
 

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And more:

American Red Squirrel
Team trying to recuperate
Grand Teton Range
Bison
Farm

John
 

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And more yet (its not bad for a slow day)

Uinta Ground Squirrel
Mountain Bluebird
Cliff Swallow juvenile
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Trumpeter Swan

And onwards - Day Five, our move from Grand Teton actually into Yellowstone National Park - there will be a short delay as I want the pix to be ready right away for this one.....

John
 

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Day 5 - Thursday.

Right. We've got a big day ahead, we are moving from Jackson, at the South end of Grand Teton National Park, to Cooke City, just beyond the North-east extremity of Yellowstone National Park. On the way we intend to take in Old Faithful and the nearby geothermal outlets, but first we'll have another go at that "regular" Coyote.

Up and out, same White Pelican and Great Blue Heron at Oxbow Bend as we went past. Elk wandering unattractively. All the same birds at Pilgrim Creek Road and the same absence of Coyote. We drove up and down the gravel road a couple of times and found a group of five Sandhill Cranes. In a perfect example of reverse string, Steve claimed one was a rock until it raised its long neck. A couple of Pine Siskins came down before we got bored with the lack of canids and toddled off to Jackson Lodge, where we got seated much more easily.

Feeling restored, we went to the petrol station at the Lodge, where a rude attendant really got Steve's goat: when he returned to the car breathing fire we decided we could fill up further on.

As we skirted Jackson Lake, we found a turnout with a few gulls and things, so stopped. They proved to be California Gulls, and we also found an Empid to try our skills on. It was a fairly large one and it called a few times, so Steve got his phone out and treated us to an array of Empid calls. On that basis (and range, and appearance compared to all except one) it was a Willow Flycatcher, and so I am recording it.

There was also a hummingbird, which photos reveal to have been a Broad-tailed Hummingbird. A Double-crested Cormorant flew past and went onto the list. Not long after that we found another filling station and Steve hopped out to fill up. Unfortunately he couldn't make the pump work and as he fizzed gently to himself I took over. I immediately noticed a spring on the nozzle and deduced that pressure must be applied to allow fuel to flow. That did the trick. You know my methods, Watson - apply them.

Thereafter I became fuel technician, as all American fuel pumps operate differently. I'm sure there is an advantage to this but I can't quite think what it is. Fuel having been pumped, Steve went to pay and had difficulty with a cashier fresh from the log cabin twenty miles from any road, who couldn't understand the comment "Pump 8". Eventually a more experienced female cashier interpreted and we were on our way again, until we came over a rise to find the road completely jammed with traffic and people gathered on one verge.

This, we correctly realised, was our first bear jam. It had obviously been going on for a while as we had to park someway back then run to join the crowd and then manoeuvre to get a view of the bear, which was on the downhill left side of the road. A ranger was marking the point of closest approach and in fact urging everyone back because the bear was coming our way. We were not anxious to move back until we'd seen our quarry (while remembering that the question of who was quarry could easily reverse) and shuffled slowly.

On the far side of the bear's deduced position another ranger was keeping order in another crowd.

In between.....

Some people had stayed in their cars, or were even trying to make their way through the jam. You could see the thought process: bloody traffic.... oh there's a crowd.... and another crowd... must be something between them! I can't see it, must be over the lip of the road.... I know, I'll get out and go to photograph it on my phone!

At which point the lunatic would hop out and walk across the road to within about ten feet of a male Grizzly Bear!!!!!!

Naturally the rangers were going completely mental at these displays (yes, more than one) of colossal idiocy. We stared in total disbelief (while keeping a weather eye on that huge, coarse-furred brown hump and broad back slowly making its way through the long grass and wild flowers towards us.)

Our blonde ranger began to insist everyone should return to their cars. We shuffled backwards but now we could see the bear, spared a quick look to check our exit strategy. The Grizzly began to be in the open and I got some shots, then it accelerated round a bend in the meadow slope and a new urgency came into the ranger's demands. We moved back a bit quicker and kept shooting as the bear turned off a bee-line for us and began to descend into the shallow ravine below the road. Very quickly it was almost out of sight among willows and we decided this was a good time to get back in the car. It had a radio collar, but I wasn't too concerned about that. It was a Grizzly and a good sighting and I was happy.

John
 

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Grizzly Photos:

John
 

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Back in the car we had to wait a couple of minutes for the traffic to sort itself out, then we set off again and were soon through the Yellowstone National Park entrance. After that we followed signs to Old Faithful which, being in the Southern end of the park, we wanted to tick off on the way through so as not to have to backtrack.

The car parking area is massive. I mean, massive enough that you make a special effort to remember where you've put the car, because otherwise you might never see it again. It also lacks useful signposting for the most part, and it took us a while to work out which way we ought to head: following others who were moving purposefully was a tactic we adopted reluctantly but proved effective.

We reached the viewing area a few minutes before the geyser was due to go off, and of course all the benches and gaps between them were full. I split off from the others, hurrying round to the right to find a good viewpoint while they negotiated views over short people or past tall ones. I ended up looking over a whole family of Chinese origin who were not only short but remained sitting on their benches.

A couple of blups of superheated water advertised the start of the show, then a huge jet fired vertically into the air, some dropping back downwind under the slight breeze while more floated away as the steam cooled to clouds of vapour. The crowd oohed and aahed, while some turned their back on the spectacle in order to take selfies with it. Humans are very odd at times. I took quite a lot of pictures, trying to get the tallest plumes as the eruption varied in height with each new pulse of steam. It went on for perhaps five minutes and then fell back through a few more decreasing blups to leave just a few wisps of steam issuing from the vent. Close scrutiny with bins showed the heat haze wobbling the landscape behind.

The crowd began to disperse and I hunted for the others. We decided to stay for a second eruption - after all, chances were we would never be here again - and this time had our pick of the benches. For some reason many of the incoming new batch of viewers seemed to think we were experts on Old Faithful and kept asking us questions about it. Fortunately most of them were of a level that our earwigging of passing Park staff's answers to questions over the preceding minutes could answer, and our reputations survived the quizzing.

Maz offered to fetch us all a drink (every tour should have someone happy to be Mom) and trotted off to the cafe. The queue was enormous and she only just made it back before the next eruption! We were quite worried on her behalf but not so much as to risk our own views.

Three White Pelicans flew over in perfect V-formation and circled several times before heading off again, by which time they had been thoroughly photographed.

Then the next show was on, perhaps not quite so tall but we thought it more intense. It was definitely worth staying for the second view and after a visit to the gift shop we made our way back to the car. Where did we leave it? This damn parking lot (I knew car park wasn't the right phrase) all looked the same.... then I noticed a clump of trees isolated in the middle of it and a couple of big campers next to it - "Over there," I announced, leading boldly and hopefully. And there was our car. Phew.

We stopped at a few turnouts as we proceeded North and found a Painted Lady (why couldn't it have been the American one?) which we photographed, as well as some Goosander, Lesser Scaup and Barrow's Goldeneye, none of which were showing well on their respective lakes. The parking areas were all jammed out and we kept moving on hoping for somewhere quieter or something interesting.

We reached the Hayden Valley which was a lush as anywhere we had been: thick green rushes and grasses, with a meandering river and pools. The smell along some of it was pretty awful though as more geothermal features release serious amounts of sulphur-containing compounds (plenty of H2S!) into the atmosphere. It also had Bison and, where we stopped to check out some ducks, an adult Bald Eagle flying by which we got some shots of as it departed. By now the oppressive heat of the day had turned to looming, threatening, black thunderheads and it was clear our luck would run out soon.

Beyond the Hayden Valley we passed Canyon Village (Hell IS other people) and the road began to climb into another range of mountains. Maz and I had passed the test at Rocky Mountain NP with flying colours and we weren't going to get squeaky now. In any case, the road was well protected by trees and armco barriers.

We emerged in rain into a high meadow which rose steeply above us on the left, and there was an incipient bear jam. We parked quickly, grabbed cameras and leapt out into the rain to find an adult female Grizzly Bear with a cub on the slope above us at a safe distance. Despite the rubbish weather and light we fired off some shots and then my camera began to play up, taking a strong dislike to the damp. The wiggler would only work to the left! I began to panic, although I did have a spare body in the car: I really didn't want to have to drop my 7d in favour of my old clunky 50d. Fortunately after it dried out a bit it was fine for the rest of the holiday, but it was a bad moment.

John
 
A few pix to break up the prose:

Bear Jam (Maz's pic)
Yellowstone. (Maz's pic)
Old Faithful X 2
Geothermal features: these ones are near Old Faithful but across the whole area the ground smokes and yellow sulphur stains the ground (and your nose....) Its very weird. Makes it much easier to believe in that supervolcano!
 

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And a few more:

White Pelican
Hayden Valley
Bald Eagle
Grizzly and cub
Grizzly
 

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