What is 'control gear'? (1 Viewer)

[Andy Adcock]

I've never had a traditional moth trap until I moved to Cyprus and in the UK, I'd us a Tungsten, blended lamp that burned hot, simply screwed in to a socket on the end of a cable a shown in the image.

I want to take a couple of these lights to Cyprus but, don't know what this means so would be grateful for an explainer from someone who knows. I want to deploy it as shown in the attached image, what is to stop me?

MV01 125w MV Bulb​

£18.00


Spare 125w MV Bulbs (ES27- Edison Screw thread mount) - Requires control gear which is supplied with all ALS MV moth traps and SK02 electrical kit. Do not use without.

 

[Mono]

It is basically a circuit that gently starts the lamp to stop it getting to hot to quickly.

 

[Andy Adcock]

It is basically a circuit that gently starts the lamp to stop it getting to hot to quickly.

Thanks,
I've run it in the above manner, as shown in the pic, with no problems for twenty years?

 

[Jabberwocky]

Mercury vapour lamps will require the control gear to start the lamp as Mono says. If you switch one on without the control gear the lamp will fail instantly, probably blowing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker. You would be wasting your money.
The tungsten lamp you say you used before is different. It works like an ordinary old fashioned bulb.
There are plenty of black light lamps on the Internet. I use a 20Watt compact fluorescent one sometimes which works OK.
If you do buy an MV lamp and control gear you should be aware that these are being discontinued in the UK, I'm not sure about elsewhere. Traders are only selling off existing stock of the control gear, it has been banned in an effort to save energy and convert everyone to led lighting.

 

[Frank van Drogen]

I used to work quite a bit with MV bulbs.... They provide very nice, stably tunable light, but are a royal pain the backside. They have limited burn hours, which is reduced by switching them on and off. Additionally, any brief electricity interruption causing it to restart while still hot makes them go pouf...

Go for LED if possible with your wave length needs. Never had any regrets myself!

 

[pppppvvvv]

Sylvania 0025706 BL368 Energy Saving Black Light Bulbs​

That's a good bulb for convenience and UV wavelengths. I don't think any of the newer bulbs are as good as MV. They definitely aren't as bright, and don't get the same numbers of moths.
Maybe different species though.

But the bulb above doesn't run hot, and can be made waterproof with a waterproof bulb holder.

LED is fine if there is no other light in the area.

 

[Andy Adcock]

Mercury vapour lamps will require the control gear to start the lamp as Mono says. If you switch one on without the control gear the lamp will fail instantly, probably blowing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker. You would be wasting your money.
The tungsten lamp you say you used before is different. It works like an ordinary old fashioned bulb.
There are plenty of black light lamps on the Internet. I use a 20Watt compact fluorescent one sometimes which works OK.
If you do buy an MV lamp and control gear you should be aware that these are being discontinued in the UK, I'm not sure about elsewhere. Traders are only selling off existing stock of the control gear, it has been banned in an effort to save energy and convert everyone to led lighting.

I'm using a black light at the moment and considering where I live, have been disappointed with both numbers and variety. So am intended to get a couple of the 'blended' bulbs to see if it makes a difference but looks like they've been discontinued at Anglian LS?

Can't remember exactly but they're a blend of Mercury and Tungsten, Anglian only seem to have MV now.?

Fluorescent is an interesting idea, I know for a fact that some species will come to this but not my blended light, Gothic being one from memory.

 

[Andy Adcock]

Can someone explain this to me?

SK13 Mains unit for the ALS 15w actinic trap — ALS - Anglian Lepidopterist Supplies

Mains unit for the ALS 15w actinic trap (fully waterproof)

www.angleps.com

What is the square box, is it just plug and go or is it more involved? I'm sure this set up would be cheaper from a DIY shop?

 

[pppppvvvv]

Can someone explain this to me?

SK13 Mains unit for the ALS 15w actinic trap — ALS - Anglian Lepidopterist Supplies

Mains unit for the ALS 15w actinic trap (fully waterproof)

www.angleps.com

What is the square box, is it just plug and go or is it more involved? I'm sure this set up would be cheaper from a DIY shop?

I also have an actinic bulb with a similar box in the electronics. I don't believe it was that expensive though.
Have you tried Paul Batty's website?

MOTH TRAPS MAIN PAGE

He's really good at providing advice via email, and provides a good service in electrics

I haven't noticed a great deal of difference between Blacklight and Actinic though. ( Or LED in an area with no light pollution)

 

[Andy Adcock]

I also have an actinic bulb with a similar box in the electronics. I don't believe it was that expensive though.
Have you tried Paul Batty's website?

MOTH TRAPS MAIN PAGE

He's really good at providing advice via email, and provides a good service in electrics

I haven't noticed a great deal of difference between Blacklight and Actinic though. ( Or LED in an area with no light pollution)

My first choice would be the Mercury / Tungsten blended but they've been discontinued.

 

[Andy Adcock]

I'm in touch with this bloke but he only accepts Paypal so trying to resurrect my account which I haven't used for years!