This is very puzzling to me because as I wrote, above:
"The position of the focus wheel allows three of your fingers to securely grip the tubes below the hinge, while your first finger then falls naturally on the focus wheel, without having to ‘reach’ or search for it, and this arrangement allowed me to hold this 10x model steadier than I anticipated."
So, yes, my experience was completely different.
I am sure we all have different ways of holding binos in the complete belief our way is the most natural way! Full disclosure: a lot of the time I hold the bino with my right hand as described and focus with the first finger and often my left hand simply supports the weight of the binos on the tips of the fingers with my left-hand thumb pointing backwards to rest on my face the give extra stability. Pretty sure that is not recommended by any birding organisation but it works for me. In strong winds though, I have to use my left hand to grip in a similar way to my right hand.And I fully understand we're all different in terms of hand size, preferred grip etc.
I'm right handed.
With every binocular I've had / have, I prefer to bring it to my eye with my left hand as my right flicks off the eyepiece cover. Thereafter I traditionally use my left as the primary 'gripping' hand and my right as support / anchor for my right, index focusing finger
I did try your way with my left hand - but that required me to focus with my left index. This didn't work for me - it felt truly odd.
When I tried your way with my right hand, it then felt really odd bringing the binocular to my eye with that hand, plus I was consistently all-of-a-fumble with my left.
This might all be pretty academic if one is just lazily enjoying landscapes etc, but when fractions of a second count in getting a bin from chest to fully focused then having to think and awkwardly fumble just doesn't work for me.
It might just be me, but that was my experience.
This is exactly what I recall myself in either SFL, and quite like many/most other bins (BN, E II etc).However, to those sensitive to CA: if I forced the issue (by looking at crows / bare twigs against open sky etc), I could fairly readily see green and purple fringing at about 60% out.
"Those folks" is just me... I see that these issues haven't lodged in everyone's mind as they seem to have in mine, and I should have reviewed them more carefully:I don't understand what the expectations were of those folks who thought there should be more 'separation' of the subject from its foreground and background in SFL 10x40.
Unless I am misunderstanding they seem to be complaining that SFL 10x40 has a greater depth of field than they would like but since depth of field is dependent on magnification I don't expect SFL 10x40 is any different from any other 10x, but I guess it might be possible to be misled by the terrain you are looking at into thinking what you see is caused by the bino.
I don't have an SFL8x40 here but I do have Leica Trinovid HD 8x32 and Meopta MeoStar B1.1 8x32 and have been comfortably swapping between these and the SFL 10x40 for 3 weeks and have never been distracted by unexpected depth of field weirdness or unexpected background texture/bokeh in the SFL.
Absolutely correct and while I didn't have another 10x bino here I did have two 8x32s that I have listed elsewhere and swapped between them and the SFL without noticing anything bothersome about the view, or the focusing of it, through the SFL.I gather from your response that you didn't experience any of this, that you like the visual presentation of both SFLs equally, found focusing with the 10x40 perfectly straightforward, and no other difference in use between the 8 and 10x than the usual ones?
Growing up, I was always told too much fiddling would cause a permanent blackout. (Titter, titter. Oooh, matron!)Through persistent and long-term fiddling, I have managed to pretty much eliminate kidney beans, or blackouts (or whatever you call them) but it required a lot of fiddling.