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Zen Ray ED....initial impressions (1 Viewer)

I noticed the difference in the width of the tethers on the ZRs but they seem looser on the ZRs than the tethers on the PMs. Of the 2, I am more concerned with losing a tether off the Zrs. The tethers on the PM seem to be of a thicker rubber - rain guard as well. The rain guard on the ZRs has a deeper cup, stays put better - too bad that neither has objective covers & rain guard with deeper cups of thicker rubber that could be factory cut to match the front hinge.
 
Hmm, interesting observation. This is one area I confess to not paying enough attention to. I rarely utilize the accessories for the purposes intended. Out of all of them I use the neckstrap and case the most though the latter does not get used unless I am taking the bins out and about.
 
I noticed the difference in the width of the tethers on the ZRs but they seem looser on the ZRs than the tethers on the PMs. Of the 2, I am more concerned with losing a tether off the Zrs. The tethers on the PM seem to be of a thicker rubber - rain guard as well. The rain guard on the ZRs has a deeper cup, stays put better - too bad that neither has objective covers & rain guard with deeper cups of thicker rubber that could be factory cut to match the front hinge.

They are. See my and Steve C's comments earlier.

The problem is they're using generic objective covers but they are customing the armor thickness to cut the weight. I think that's where the problem lies. They don't want to make new injection molds for these? Though they did have to make molds to brand them with the ZR ... go figure.

I did loose a tether in colder weather (and found it on my birding walk 3 days later ... just looked down and there it was).

I found the PM tethers loose too. The Bushnell Elite tethered tethered objective covers are a tighter fit. They make good (and inexpensive) replacements.

The rainguard is a different matter. I rather like their approach. It won't fall off easily though perhaps a little more difficult to remove. The PM rainguard is a generic and one of the two common designs (there's the matt dark gray one and the glossy black one ;) ).
 
Steve the mirage effect is even worse at 10x, I got it with all pairs I have had of any brand.

The mirage from heat wave was there even without binoculars. Probably a better optics reveals it more. That's why many stargazers choose late night when temperature is cool to watch the sky.
 
Falcondude, my ZR case doesn't have 2 compartments and I think that if you look at yours, you will find that the sides are velcroed together and once the velcro is undone, you are able to completely open the case.

Got it. Now my case can be fully open to 180 degree. It is so much easier to get it in and out.
 
Steve the mirage effect is even worse at 10x, I got it with all pairs I have had of any brand.

I absolutely agree with that. 10x can be useless in heavy mirage. In those situations you will see more further away with 6-7x by quite a noticeable amount. That's one reason I do not use 10x more than I do. Mirage is a heavy factor to contend with where I use binoculars. That is a reason I like the Swift Eaglet 7x36 so well, the way 7x handles mirage. When I go out, I always have 7x, 8x, and 10x binoculars with me. Conditions often dictate which one I use. Not that you can't see the mirage with any magnification, you can see through it better with less magnification.
 
I took the Promaster objective covers off, they were useless. Even for those that use them.

Interesting. When mine are on I can't accidently touch the objectives and dust doesn't settle on the objectives either. ;)

So not actually useless. They do keep dust and other crud off the objectives especially during transport and other times the bins are not in use.
 
I know I remember a thread on here discussing it previously but how many folks actually utilize their objective covers under most conditions? The rainguard, yes, but not really the objective covers unless I am storing the bins and I do not have the case handy.
 
Mostly Pleased

i received my ZEN ED 8x43's on monday and have been very pleased with the image they produce. everything about them is amazing EXCEPT for the following:

1. the focus wheel was a little stiff at first, but not unbearable. now, after a couple days, the wheel is at a good tension but there is a bit of scraping in the wheel. not a lot but definitely noticeable. anybody else have this happen?

2. yeah, the objective tether issue is a pain.

3. the right eye-cup clicks into place really nicely but the left is less "clicky." both are secure for the time being. i am just very wary of this style of eye-cups having had issues with them on a pair of pentax binos.

4. yeah, the strap is too long.

5. the case doesn't really fit the binos with the strap on very comfortably.

All that being said. the image is gorgeous. i'm just hoping the focus wheel will just smooth out a little.
 
1. the focus wheel was a little stiff at first, but not unbearable. now, after a couple days, the wheel is at a good tension but there is a bit of scraping in the wheel. not a lot but definitely noticeable. anybody else have this happen?

I've heard this.

Does it depend upon where your finger touches the focus knob?

I find I can just here something about every half rotation (IIRC!) when I use the objective end of the focus knob with my focusing finger but it's silent if I use to the top end of the knob.

I suspect the top end is attached to the mechanism and the bottom end of the shell is deforming slightly under pressure. Just a guess.
 
4. yeah, the strap is too long.

5. the case doesn't really fit the binos with the strap on very comfortably.

All that being said. the image is gorgeous. i'm just hoping the focus wheel will just smooth out a little.

After emailing ZR to suggest an improvement on their long neckstrap. I got a response within a couple of hours. It turns out this neckstrap is designed to accomodate both shoulder-carrying and chest-holding styles. There are quick connects on both ends of the strap. If I want to permanently carry it at chest height, I just need to remove the stitches on the quick connect clips (the male end of the clip). Then run the short strap through the connecter with the strap buckle removed from quick connect end. In 2 min, my ZEN is comfortably resting on top of my belly. When I hold it with strap fully relaxed on my shoulder, the elbows are right at 90 degree angle. The problem is solved without taking the harness off the EL.

Yeah, it is little tight for case. I noticed the bottom of case is contoured to the shape of binoculars. The binoculars need to be put down with the bridge facing up. I then fold the strap and put it on top of it. Lulubelle's suggestion on how to fully open it really helps.
 
focus knob

I've heard this.

Does it depend upon where your finger touches the focus knob?

I find I can just here something about every half rotation (IIRC!) when I use the objective end of the focus knob with my focusing finger but it's silent if I use to the top end of the knob.

I suspect the top end is attached to the mechanism and the bottom end of the shell is deforming slightly under pressure. Just a guess.

Do you think this is a big deal?
 
It was very nice yesterday and I birded with the ZR 10x on Whidbey Island so I shoud write up both my birding efforts with the ZR 10x (and played around with a DLS 8x to compare it to some of my bins ... more under another heading).

Pajaro bags deserve a different thread!


Being a 8x wide FOV guy, I am wondering whether you see any major difference between 10x and 8x ZEN besides FOV and power. Does 10x manage the color abberation as good as 8x?
 
Being a 8x wide FOV guy, I am wondering whether you see any major difference between 10x and 8x ZEN besides FOV and power. Does 10x manage the color abberation as good as 8x?

It does. I think I posted a little about that above but I need to write up some more of my observations.

The 10x is as optically as sharp (and as good at color correction) as the 8x ZR.

The only thing that bugs me about 10x ZR is the ER/AFOV interaction.

I think even without eyeglasses I can only just see the whole FOV at the second stop. I can't I can see the whole field at the full out stop: it's curiously missing the top and the bottom but not the sides (odd).

This interacts with blackouts too. Usually blackouts without eyeglasses with the eyecups all the way in (first stop). At the second stop I get blackouts on eye turning to pan in the field. At the third stop I don't get blackouts.

So the full field with blackouts on panning is not a great compromise. But of course I always bird with my glasses on due to astigmatism and myopia.

With eyeglasses I definitely loose more of the field than I like. More ER is needed and less loss of usable ER due to eyecup thickness and offset. I think there is a couple of mm in there that is just not being used with the current eyecups system (even allowing for the needed gap to the back surface of the EP lens). It feels that the "first stop" being closer to the EP lens would help eyeglass users. Not sure who the second stop is meant to help ;)

I'd like to here other 10x users comments on the ER and AFOV.
 
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Do you think this is a big deal?

I can't actually tell other than speculation.

But I think it's something ZR should look at in the next design. It could also be that the focus knob is very slightly tilted too so it touches down with a little force at some points.

Of course if it gets worse over time ... send the bin back for a replacement.
 
Oh, eye relief! I had similar experience with 10x42 EL that I cannot find a comfortable position no matter what. But my 8.5X does not have any problem. However, none of my buddies has issue with 10x42. I think my problem is that I do not like to push my eyes onto the eyecups, which then requires some extra ER margin. It is fine for 8-8.5x power, but may cause a problem for 10x or higher. I guess I am stucked as a 8x or lower person.
 
Interesting comments on the 10x version of Zen Ray. I have been out of the 10x market for some time now. I am wondering if now may be a good time to look back into it. If the 10x quality is as good as the 8x (as mentioned) then I this might be the time to start re-exploring 10x options.
 
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