Point here is the solution to this often reported issue may be more subtle, more personal that what we read here. There is a saying, "Its the poor athlete who blames his/her equipment." Just sayin.
Point here is the solution to this often reported issue may be more subtle, more personal that what we read here. There is a saying, "Its the poor athlete who blames his/her equipment." Just sayin.
Don't rush to get a patent for your "new trick" because it's old and well known, see for example:Hen Run,
Most recently, (note weeks into it), I discovered if I abandon my habit of mounting the binos to my eyebrow, but rather slide the eyecup rubber ring down 1/4" - 3/8" or so onto the eyeglass lens, the glare disappears.
Point here is the solution to this often reported issue may be more subtle, more personal that what we read here. There is a saying, "Its the poor athlete who blames his/her equipment." Just sayin.
I should find the idea that I have no clue on how to operate a binocular amusing rather than irksome.
I find the headrest very useful for moving the binoculars down and to the right/left while maintaining contact with the forehead and the right distance between the eyes and the eyepieces.Don't rush to get a patent for your "new trick" because it's old and well known, see for example:
Poll: does NL glare depend on eyeglasses?
Usually the main cause of glare are reflections at the bottom of the EP. To avoid them the most obvious way is to move the binos a bit down so that the reflections don't reach your eye pupils (resting the binos under you eyebrows is the worst you can do in such a case!). Moving the binos down is relatively easy if you wear glasses and if the EP is large enough. But people who don't wear glasses, depending on their facial features, might not be able to do that especially if the diameter of the eyecups is large. There is also the problem that when you get closer to the EP (to try avoid seeing the reflections at its bottom) you start to get blackout problems.
I must have overlooked this post, which does makes sense: the goal of antifog would be to disperse tiny amounts of moisture instead of bead them. But in that case, why are there so many complaints about fogging NL eyepieces?Swaroclean is not antifog, nor is Nikon's flurine coating, nor is Zeiss Lotutec. These are hydrophobic and pro-fog, but easy clean like a teflon pan. They are probably all based on something similar to PTFE PFOA flurine hydrocarbon.
Antifog is the opposite, hydrophilic, and "difficult" to clean because water doesn't wipe off, it clings as a thin film, thus avoiding the fog but can leave smears.
Where can you get this?Hello, starting from 2020, Swarovski has changed the coating of the eyepieces for environmental protection. I also have a NL1042. The problem you mentioned has also troubled me for a long time. So much so that I had to go back to using my old EL1042. Or you can try Swarovski or Zeiss anti-fog cleaner.
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I would also like to know this, and/or are there other anti-fog treatments that are safe and even marginally effective?Where can you get this?
You can buy it here.Where can you get this?
There is a relatively cheap solution, it's called contact lenses. I used them with binos, because I have severe myopia and my first Alpha binos did not have enough over drive past infinity to be usable without eyewear.I used to suffer a LOT of fogging with my glasses in the tropics and it was one of the major reasons I decided to have laser eye surgery. It was never (or almost never) my bins - just my glasses. I spend a lot of time birding in the tropics and no amount of "just clean them" used to keep my glasses fog free. It was a non stop hassle and I missed birds and cursed at my glasses and never found a solution in terms of coatings on the lenses, products to use on them, magic cloths to clean them, etc.
There is a relatively cheap solution, it's called contact lenses. I used them with binos, because I have severe myopia and my first Alpha binos did not have enough over drive past infinity to be usable without eyewear.
one additional benefit of contacts is no fogging.
An alternative solution is to use binos with a huge focus past infinity factor like Zeiss HT, or Swaro EL 12x50, or SF 8x42. I get that you have to take the eyewear off to use them.
However, I found a phenomenon I've never experienced in Swarovski binoculars before, and it was a big shock to find that the external glass of the eye lenses misted up easily in certain situations. It typically happened in tough conditions, often when I was walking uphill, in lowland humid forest, where my body heat caused the eye lenses to mist up. Basically if you're 'running hot' then heat transfers to the glass and mists up the eye lens. A birder I was travelling with found the problem so annoying and serious that he's thinking of shifting to Zeiss. Other birders on one of the ships were also reporting concerns.