Want to hear from 1-2 year photographers (6 Viewers)

[CCRII]

Actually want to hear from any experienced photographers or any photographers who have had success, thanks!


How many snaps does it take to get a sharp shot? I have been having this problem where I will take about 2-3 gigs worth of shots and maybe 1 will be slightly okay this is probably due mostly to my inexperience more then anything but I was just wondering about your success rate versus rejects and if the photo is rejected because the images were slightly blurred or was it because the comp. was not exactly what you hoped or the exposure was not the best.

I have been having this problem were I get close to a bird, but it is in the foreground of a messy twiggy tree or bush and the auto focus wants to go back and forth between the mess of twigs in the background to the bird that is 10 feet away right in my face practically. I end up getting less then sharp results most of which come out slightly blurred. Should I just not even attempt to shoot in such situations? I think to because I am not holding it completely steady it changes focus because it is very sensitive. I use evaluative metering mode and AI Servo. Is this best?

I am using the canon 30D and the 100-400mm f5.6 EF IS USM lens.

 

[mjmw]

Which focus points you are using? If you have all switched on then the camera is going to get confused with the other stuff in the frame - it has no idea that the bird is the thing you want to focus on. If you only have one selected, in AI Servo, you need to keep the focus point over the bird or the camera just thinks you want to focus on the branches instead.

Also, evaluative metering has nothing to do with how auto-focus works

Sorry, I ignored your title and answered anyway

 

[Roy C]

How many snaps does it take to get a sharp shot? I have been having this problem where I will take about 2-3 gigs worth of shots and maybe 1 will be slightly okay

There is something wrong here - The most obvious is what Mark has already said about the focus points. Make sure you are using just the centre point and that the centre point is over the target.
Are you shooting in RAW or jpeg and what processing are you doing?

p.s. I have been into Photography for around 2 1/2 years now so am just outside of your criteria.

 

[gordon g]

I dont fall into your criteria either, but thought I'd try to help too.
Several things can affect sharpness of an image. Incorrect focussing is the most obvious - Mark has made a good suggestion to use just a single focus point in these situations, and keep it over the bird. Personally I dont use AI servo on static subjects, as I dont get an easy to see red square over the subject confirming focus if I do.

Camera or subject movement is another pitfall. A fast shutter speed will help minimise this, so make sure your'e aware of the interaction between shutter speed, apeture and ISO to get the best combination for each exposure. Another thing which can help is using a tripod +/- a shutter release cable, although this will slow everything down and may cause you to miss too many shots. I havent used your lens, but a lot of people seem to be able to handhold it successfully. Good technique is important for handholding - keep the camera well balanced, your elbows in tight, and lean against something stable if possible.

Dont forget manual focus as an option - it can work very well once you get used to it, and removes the frustration of errant autofocus!

Assuming you are achieving correct focus, there are then all the post-processing considerations - file type, sharpening methods etc to consider, but I would concentrate on camera technique first then worry about the computer stuff once you have got some good files to work on.

Hope that helps!

 

[CCRII]

Sorry, I ignored your title and answered anyway

No problem the advice is appreciated. Not trying to be rude when I said 1-2 year photographers, I just guessed those would be the ones with enough experience to help here, but obviously I was very wrong.

I just through in the evaluative metering in case it had some bearing on the issue as a whole.

As for the focusing point I guess it was set to automatic because I was in AV mode. But I see I can manual change it. So I should be manual adjusting this option too?

Thanks.

 

[CCRII]

There is something wrong here - The most obvious is what Mark has already said about the focus points. Make sure you are using just the centre point and that the centre point is over the target.
Are you shooting in RAW or jpeg and what processing are you doing?

p.s. I have been into Photography for around 2 1/2 years now so am just outside of your criteria.

Man I should not have put the 1-2 year thing in there haha! I was just looking for experienced help is all which you and Mark obviously have.

I shoot in RAW and I am talking about untouched original shots.

Thanks.

 

[CCRII]

I dont fall into your criteria either, but thought I'd try to help too.
Several things can affect sharpness of an image. Incorrect focussing is the most obvious - Mark has made a good suggestion to use just a single focus point in these situations, and keep it over the bird. Personally I dont use AI servo on static subjects, as I dont get an easy to see red square over the subject confirming focus if I do.

Camera or subject movement is another pitfall. A fast shutter speed will help minimise this, so make sure your'e aware of the interaction between shutter speed, apeture and ISO to get the best combination for each exposure. Another thing which can help is using a tripod +/- a shutter release cable, although this will slow everything down and may cause you to miss too many shots. I havent used your lens, but a lot of people seem to be able to handhold it successfully. Good technique is important for handholding - keep the camera well balanced, your elbows in tight, and lean against something stable if possible.

Dont forget manual focus as an option - it can work very well once you get used to it, and removes the frustration of errant autofocus!

Assuming you are achieving correct focus, there are then all the post-processing considerations - file type, sharpening methods etc to consider, but I would concentrate on camera technique first then worry about the computer stuff once you have got some good files to work on.

Hope that helps!

The thing is this is not a static subject. Were talking moving warblers hopping about 10 feet in front of me.

I use AV mode and so I usually have the f stop at 6.7 or above and in the most recent circumstance the subjects were giving me 1/2000 sec shutter speed suggestions. The subject was a bit back lit so I was using my flash in high speed mode but I was also taking shots with the flash off.

I have tried a tripod, but it seems to be a major bird repellent and makes it extremely difficult for stalking most passerines which is a majority of what I shoot around here. I could see a tripod really helping if I had a longer reach lens though.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[Roy C]

As for the focusing point I guess it was set to automatic because I was in AV mode. But I see I can manual change it. So I should be manual adjusting this option too?

Thanks.

Focusing points can be changed in AV mode - if you have not changed to a single point then I would bet this is your problem.
To check this, open your files in zoombrowser and you can see where the focus was by selecting 'show auto focus points'

 

[gordon g]

The thing is this is not a static subject. Were talking moving warblers hopping about 10 feet in front of me.

I would still avoid AI servo for this - I tend to use this setting only for things like birds in flight. Even with with swimming, walking or hopping birds I prefer the single shot mode. I just take my finger off the shutter button and repress it to half-way again to refocus.

I have tried a tripod, but it seems to be a major bird repellent

Yep- I know the problem! I now use a sigma 500 f4.5 rather than my old bigma, and have had to adapt to a more tripod-based style. I find that I tend to set myself up in a likely spot, or where I know the birds are around, and wait for them to come to me. A monopod might be an option though - I will have to dig out my old one and give it a go!

As others have said - AV mode only automates exposure (it works out the exposure based on your chosen apeture). It will have no effect on focusing at all. If your subject is strongly backlit, remember to dial in some overexposure to compensate and correctly expose the subject.

 

[mjmw]

I would still avoid AI servo for this - I tend to use this setting only for things like birds in flight. Even with with swimming, walking or hopping birds I prefer the single shot mode. I just take my finger off the shutter button and repress it to half-way again to refocus.

Of course, just to confuse you, I have a different opinion to Gordon

My cameras will rarely come out of AI Servo...and always use it if I am hand-holding. The reason is that you will move the camera up-down, left-right and back and forth, no matter how steady your hand. You can use the same finger 'dab' technique to relock focus as Gordon describes with AI Servo.

If I am static (say with a tripod in a hide/blind) and expect the subject to land and pause in a single spot, then I may use single-shot AF but rarely at other times when working with birds.

 

[Roy C]

I still reckon that your problem is using all focus points. Shooting a bird from around 10 feet which is in hedge with all focus point turned on is a recipe for disaster. Have you check this in Zoombrowser?

If you had a single focus point and was shooting from say 10-30 feet it would be almost impossible to only get one sharp shot out of several hundred no matter how inexperience you were.

 

[CCRII]

Focusing points can be changed in AV mode - if you have not changed to a single point then I would bet this is your problem.
To check this, open your files in zoombrowser and you can see where the focus was by selecting 'show auto focus points'

None of the images have any points selected it seems. Just hollow red boxes.

 

[CCRII]

I still reckon that your problem is using all focus points. Shooting a bird from around 10 feet which is in hedge with all focus point turned on is a recipe for disaster. Have you check this in Zoombrowser?

Sorry took so long had to go find my software and install.

Thanks.

 

[a.dancy]

I think before you do anything you would be well advised to test your gear on a static subject such as a ruler which is angled at say 45 degrees away from you at a distance of about 10ft. Set your camera at f5.6. (preferably on a firm tripod) Aim for a specific point on the ruler and take about 5 shots using single shot AF. Ask yourself if you think the image in the view finder is sharp. You can then try say 5 shots using manual focus but do not move the camera. Take another 5 shots but between each shot go out of focus then manually adjust so that you are in focus then take a shot. Repeat 5 times. Load the results onto your computer and check for sharpness. If for the images where you have used AF mode you have shots which are not sharp the you may have a fault with the camera or the lens....for instance you might have a lens which is front focusing.
If the AF shots are OK and you find your manual shots are not in focus you may have to check your diopter setting i.e. the tiny wheel which is next to the view finder. To set this correctly go back to AF mode and focus on the ruler with the red light showing in camera (confirming focus lock) and tweak the diopter till you are absolutely sure that the image in the view finder is as sharp as it can be. Repeat the tests. If everything is sharp then you know that you and your gear are performing well. Remember always that you must focus on the same spot on the ruler and you must not move the camera even by a tiny amount otherwise you loose consistency.

In the field , or indeed with the test do not snatch the shutter release button. This will only cause shake and image stabilisation won't correct that.


If you find that you do not get sharp shots after testing out on static objects ask someone else with experience to check your camera and lens out for you. If there is a problem then you may need the camera and lens recallibrating. If you do not feel confident with your gear then it will put you off photography.

Have a look at your custom settings for sharpness....make sure it is set at 0. I do not shoot RAW but believe the images in RAW are a bit soft to begin with (I may be wrong)

Remember AF can be confused by different conditions and shooting birds with twigs in the way can be quite demanding. In those conditions I would not use al-servo....in fact I rarely do though I know many do. I don't think you can focus lock and recompose when al-servo is used.....though I may be wrong.

I hope this helps.

Good luck.

No point in testing out on birds if you cannot get static subjects sharp. When ever you buy gear you should test it out...never make the assumption that everything is OK because very often it is not.

 

[Keith Reeder]

None of the images have any points selected it seems. Just hollow red boxes.

They are the selected focus points.

FWIW, I reckon it's focus points too, CCR.

I've attached a picture showing what a single (centre) active focus point looks like - do your pictures indicate a similar distribution?

 

[CCRII]

They are the selected focus points...

Well in that case the focus is on 9 points. 8 points on the outside and 1 point in the center of points that form a Diamond shape. Sorry for my ignorance, I guess I really look like a fool. I have not used this feature.

 

[Roy C]

None of the images have any points selected it seems. Just hollow red boxes.

The hollow red boxes are the points which are used.
edit: I see Keith beat me to it.

 

[Roy C]

Well in that case the focus is on 9 points. 8 points on the outside and 1 point in the center of points that form a Diamond shape. Sorry for my ignorance, I guess I really look like a fool. I have not used this feature.

Try setting the centre focus point only - your hit rate will improve dramatically. :t:

 

[CCRII]

They are the selected focus points.

FWIW, I reckon it's focus points too, CCR.

I've attached a picture showing what a single (centre) active focus point looks like - do your pictures indicate a similar distribution?

Okay thanks for clearing that up for me and sorry for not calling them focus points.

I took a shot where I moved the focus point to the center and then used ZoomBrowser EX to view the shot and sure enough the center focus point is a red hollow box while the other points are black like your screen capture.

Thanks.

 

[CCRII]

Try setting the centre focus point only - your hit rate will improve dramatically. :t:

Cool!! Thanks a heap! Cannot wait to try it out!