Birding in Queensland and Papua New Guinea (1 Viewer)

Queensland and Papua New Guinea 3-28th May 12

Excuse the format. This is first trip report I’ve filed. I was posting quite a few photos to the Gallery from a recent trip to Queensland and New Guinea and it was suggested that I provide a report.

I haven’t recorded the sort of detail that others have as I decided to do this after the event, but as Papua New Guinea isn’t that well traveled I thought the information could be helpful to those planning a trip.

We flew to Brisbane on 3 May, spent 3 days in Kuranda (Cassowary House) and visited the local N Queensland birding spots and then had just over two week in PNG on an itinerary we put together with Sue Gregory (of Sicklebill Safaris). We ended with some relaxing bird watching at the Acacia Court Hotel in Cairns before flying back on 28th May.

In Port Moresby and Tabubil we used comfortable, western style hotels of a good standard Raintree Lodge (great value and very friendly) and Cloudlands (quite expensive but OK). In Kiunga we stayed twice at the Kiunga Guest House a small but very good locally run place. In the mountains we used Kumul Lodge, the lodge is made of local materials and situated an hour from Mt Hagen at an elevation of about 2600m but with lower and higher level birding available nearby (didn’t quite manage number of BoPs that you get at Tari but still got 8 here, missing two or three possibles). Kwatu Lodge was quite basic with pit toilets and bush showers and no electricity, where we needed to take our own beer and food with us (more on that later) but where else can you wake to a 12 wire Bird of Paradise in scope view waiting for you.

We arrived In Brisbane too late to do anything on our first night
but got off early on Day 2 to remind ourselves of some local birds with a walk along the river to the Botanic Gardens and then took a ride on the Cat to Hamilton and then back to the city. Even on largely non birding day we managed our first lifer of the trip “Bush Stone Curlew” two pairs in the Botanic Gardens; and saw some birds such as Australian Pelican, Australian Ibis, Silver Gull, Willie Wagtail, Australian Magpie, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Noisy Miner, Torresian Crow and Welcome Swallow that reminded us how good the birding in Queensland could be (this was our second trip).

Day 3 – Traveled from Brisbane to Cairns arriving in late morning and picked up our Car at the Airport, we got offered a free upgrade to 4 Wheel Drive, which proved useful for driving some of the mountain roads. We then drove up to Cassowary House to meet Sue and talk about our PNG itinerary.
Birding around Cassowary House and Black mountain Road was excellent. Highlights were our first Southern Cassowary (Male and two chicks), Double-eyed Fig Parrot, Yellow-spotted Honeyeater, Macleays Honeyeater, Bar-breasted Honeyeater, Pale Yellow Robin and Spectacled Monarch all new and other great birds like King Parrot, Shining and Lemon-bellied Flycatchers, Brown Gerygone, Common Bronzewing and Mistletoe Bird all within a mile of the house.

Then drove into Kuranda to pick up fish and chips and take them back to the House so we could have an early night. After we parked saw Rainbow Lorikeet, Blue Winged Kookaburra and Sulphur Crested Cockatoo.

Day 4 – Breakfast on the balcony, where we could see the feeders, still a little dark for photography but couldn’t resist trying for Hornbill (helmeted) Friarbird, MacLeay’s Honeyeater, Emerald Dove, Brush Turkey, Black Butcherbird and Musky Rat Kangaroo record shots. Over breakfast discussed with Sue and Phil places we could go and were given directions for possible Golden Bowerbird near Atherton. We decided to go for that via Tingaloo Creek Road and M Wetlands where there was a chance of a few birds we were after such as Squatter Pigeon and Black Throated Finch.

We started along the Tinaroo creek road, where we quickly saw White-breasted Wood Swallow, Black and Square Tailed Kite and Grey Goshawk. I think we should have then turned right before the tarmac road turned to a track (led eventually to Damburra Mountain Forest Road and through a national park). Anyway the birding was pretty good on the track, first we got a flock of Squatter Pigeons which was a target bird for the day, then at a little creek crossing we had a mixed flock of finches including Black Throated which we were told were pretty elusive, then in the thinner trees Pale headed Rosella and Forest Kingfisher showed well. In the forest we had Pied and White Eared Monarch and then Northern Fantail. When we emerged from the forest we headed towards Atherton but via some lakes and wetlands at our first stop we managed to get Logrunner and Chowchilla (another lifer for us near Lake Eacham) before taking a wrong turning and finding ourselves near some waterfalls outside Malanda and not on the right mountain road for the Golden Bowerbird. However there was a reserve with Tree Kangaroos to be looked for (later told by Sue that we were there at wrong time for them. Still we did get Bower’s Shrike Thrush, Grey Crowned Babbler, Spotted Catbird and a female Victoria’s Riflebird in the forest which were all new and in the scrub Atherton Scrubwren, Mountain Thornbill and Fern Wren again all lifers.

As we wanted to get back before it got dark we decided to go via the small wetlands near Atherton “Hasties Swamp” in hope of Cranes, unfortunately there were none to be seen but we did get Straw-necked Ibis, Plumed Whistling Duck, Masked Lapwing and Comb Crested Jacana – all nice birds.

Day 5 – short walk before breakfast saw us add Orange-legged Scrubfowl and the whole Cassowary family (Male, Female and 2 chicks) Missie is very impressive. Over breakfast we are given some advice by Phil on PNG and told some tales of Phil’s adventures there. He also advised us where to see Silver-eared Honeyeater in the Craft Market at Port Moresby (we didn’t need it as it turned out). Activity at the feeders was better today and we had both male and female Victoria Riflebirds, the usual Friarbird and Butcherbird, loads of Honeyeaters and Emerald Dove. While on the ground the Cassowaries were joined by Brush Turkeys.

Today we decided to bird Henry Hanson Drive (the road we should have turned down yesterday), then the Mareeba Wetlands (but closed for fumigation so we missed the Treecreeper) then Mount Malloy then Barron Falls on the way back.

On the Drive we came across a small river crossing and scrubby hillside area which proved excellent – firstly White-faced and Barred Cuckoo Shrikes, Double-barred Finch, Nutmeg Mannikin, Little Bronze Cuckoo (Gould’s?), Crested Pigeon and Striated Pardalote, Red-backed Fairy Wren and Sacred kingfisher.

Then in Mount Malloy by the Cemetery we found Great Bowerbird (the target lifer here) and then near the school as advised flocks of Red-winged Parrots, Pale Headed Rosella and Forest Kingfisher and a male Great Bowerbird which unfortunately disappeared into a Garden and I was forced to settle for photographing the female.

Enroute to Barron Falls we got an Emu and then in the forest found Fairy Gerygone, Eastern Yellow Robin and Rufous Throated Honeyeater.

Dinner in the revamped Kuranda Resort where steaks were $10 each and beer not expensive offered good value but no choice for those who don’t like steak.

Day 6 – Last words of advice from Phil and Sue before heading to the airport for our late morning flight to Port Moresby. Decided to leave some luggage at Cassowary House as on little planes luggage allowance is 15Kg and there isn’t a lot of leeway when you need to take Wellingtons, tripod, field guides and other birding paraphernalia.

Flight went smoothly. Thanks to advice from Sue we knew that we should be able to change some money to PNG K at Port Moresby Airport before clearing immigration and get a much better rate than in the UK or Australia (sure enough we were able to use a ATM before immigration and customs, but we were told that even if the ATM was out and the counter closed we would have been allowed to leave our values and go into the terminal to get card to pay for the entry visa K100 about £30. We then bought a local SIM card and some credit for my mobile phone which is much cheaper than using roaming services and actually had very good coverage in PNG.

The Raintree people we waiting for us after luggage collection and had us in the Hotel is very short time. When we arrived at Raintree or birding guide Daniel was waiting for us and gave us 30 minutes to get our gear sorted before taking us to PAU. The ponds at the Pacific Adventist University in Port Moresby, were an excellent introduction to New Guinea birding and we got two target species Fawn-breasted Bowerbird and Spotted Whistling Duck, as well as Pied Heron, Purple Swamphen, Magpie Goose, Pacific Golden Plover in and around the first ponds. In the far trees we got our first PNG fairy wren a White Shouldered and some Singing Starlings.

A sharp downpour had us sheltering under trees but we still managed a Yellow Faced Myna. NG Helmeted Friarbird and Pheasant Coucal. When the rain finally eased we headed back to the main ponds and started to look for pigeons and doves coming in. The first group was Orange fronted Fruit doves which landed on the trees opposite to give good scope views, then over went Torresian Imperial Pigeon and finally my favourite of the three Pink Spotted Fruit Doves which also landed and gave good views.

On the walk back to the car we managed another lifer (most things were at this early stage) male and female Electus Parrots. It was then back to the hotel via a lot of heavy traffic made worse it seemed by the heavy rain earlier.

Glad to say the beer and food at the hotel was excellent and the air-conditioning, extremely pleasant after the high humidity outside.

Day 7 – early start breakfast of fruit and really good pancakes at 5am and on our way by 5.20 to get up to the Sogeri Plateau by first light. Our first stop was a few miles before Varirata National Park this is an area of savanna woodland on the plateau above Port Moresby famous for its Raggiana BoP lek-trees and forest trails.

More to follow

Nice report - I particularly enjoyed reading about Cassowary House as I was there myself not so long ago and visited the areas you mentioned. Good to hear that my old friends Phil & Sue Gregory looked after you so well - Sue's breakfasts really are amazing!

Yes. Great breakfasts - home made breads. at least 12 different fruits each day and great coffee. All while watching Friarbirds, Honeyeaters, Riflebirds and Butcherbirds at the feeders, and Cassowaries and Brush Turkeys in the grounds below.

Glad you enjoyed your time in my backyard; you got some excellent birds there especially the exceptional record of Rufous-throated Honeyeater at Barron Falls.

Some good stuff is turning up coastally at the moment. A Black-eared Cuckoo (a desert bird) was seen by a friend just a short distance from my house the other day. Now that would be one hell of a garden record; if only!

Checked notes which my wife took this day and not clear if Rufous Throated Honeyeater was at Barron Falls which I've stated or Malanda Falls (has "Falls" against it) but do remember it was was slightly further south than shown in the field guide. I assume there must be some seasonal or migration movement.

Thanks - this is really useful, just starting to plan a trip there for next year.

regards
JungleBabbler

Papua New Guinea Part 2

Day 7 – early start breakfast of fruit and really good pancakes at 5am and on our way by 5.20 to get up to the Sogeri Plateau by first light. Our first stop was a few miles before Varirata National Park this is an area of savanna woodland on the plateau above Port Moresby famous for its Raggiana BoP lek-trees and forest trails.

We were looking unsuccessfully for Glossy Mantled Manucodes but did manage to see our first Raggiana (a female) and Superb Fruit Dove, Blue winged Kookaburra, Brown Oriole and Papuan Flowerpecker. We could only spend a little time here as we wanted to get to the Leks while the Raggiana’s were still active.

I suppose we all sort of know what a BoP lek should look and sound like after seeing David Attenborough’s life of birds, but until you actually experience the sound of 9 or 10 males calling madly and seeing the upside down displays with their feathers arched around them as the females approach it is a pale imitation of real live. We watched through the scope and attempted to video the display but to be honest we just wanted to enjoy it, so while I have a couple of record shots a minute or two of video we just concentrated on watching and listening for 45 minutes until the activity begun to lessen. Then we meant to the main camp and picnic area – here we could hear a number of mixed flocks and before two long we had Mimic Meliphaga, Hooded Pitohui (the first of the poisonous bird family we were looking forward to), Red flanked Lorikeet and Glossy Swiflets to add to the list. The trails into the forest were quite hard work and without Daniel to identify and track the sounds we would have struggled (as found out later) we found a great mixed flock containing, Black Berrypecker, Spot winged Monarch, Chestnut bellied Fantail and Frilled Monarch all of which over a 10 minute period we got good views of, then it went quiet and we struggled for a while until we found the next flock led by Spot Winged Monarch again and we added varied Triller, Fairy Gerygone, White-bellied Whistler and Rusty Pitohui to the growing list. We then heard close by Painted Quail Thrush but despite much whistling and some playback we couldn’t get on the bird. We did find an as yet un-named poison dart frog - nice.

It was then Kingfisher time, firstly we got the one we were after Brown headed Paradise Kingfisher, then Rufous Bellied Kookaburra and after much trying the georgeous Yellow-billed Kingfisher. I got two flight views but Sarah just couldn’t get on it, after a bit of playback it flew across the track and Daniel managed to get it in the scope for us, we then got great views but unfortunately it flew before we could photograph it. Over the day we actually saw 7 kingfishers as Daniel said a very good start for these attractive birds. After a short break for our massive packed lunch we tried for Chestnut –backed Jewel Babbler, again we heard it and it seemed to approach us but no luck and dispiritingly we also kept hearing but not seeing Rusty Warbler what we did see were Figbird, Pale billed Scrubwren and Grey Hooded Cuckoo Shrike which lifted spirits before seeing a lovely little Barred Owlet Nightjar poking his head out of a roosting hole. That made it a pretty good first full day but we still has a few more crackers on the way down from the plateau, first we saw Doria’s Hawk which existed Daniel who said he sometimes spends a whole day trying to find this special raptor, then the really smart Easter Black-Capped Lory surely one of the prettiest of this family (my photo doesn’t do it justice) and then for some icing on the cake a Papuan Black Myzomela and Coconut Lorikeet (split from Rainbow; none of the local guides liked the name – Daniel said it doesn’t look like a coconut, it doesn’t go in coconut trees and it doesn’t eat Coconut so it just mad) and finally Zoe’s Imperial Pigeon at a final stop.

As we approached Port Moresby, Daniel confessed to feeling unwell and matter of factly said it felt like Malaria (he had it 6 times now), he was going to go to the pharmacy and hopefully see us tomorrow at 5.30.

We had a pleasant evening in the hotel where the food and drink were again excellent.

Day 8 – the staff at the hotel let us know that a driver and guide they do not know are waiting, did they want us to check with Daniel that it was safe. Note - everyone recognises Daniel Wakra so with his mountain man looks and huge beard so they knew instantly it wasn’t him. Sue had mentioned to us that Daniel was pretty much a one man band as far as birding goes, he does employ cultural guides and drivers but when he isn’t available to bird he doesn’t have any trainees (so people using him and he is pretty much the only local guide in this area should be aware they may need to do a bit for themselves). Anyway the Cultural Guide spoke good English and we decided that we would go to Varirata again then stop of at PAU for some easier birding on the way back. We stopped on the way up when I saw glossy bird fly across the road, I thought Manucode, and have to confess that until I got the scope out of the car and on the bird some minutes later I was still thinking that, but then I had to confess in a slightly embarrassed way to Sarah it was a Dollarbird we stopped for (which she teased me with later and even a Edmund started calling it a Dollard bird of paradise). Ouch! Quickly we went on to the Raggiana Lek to see real BoPs and today they were slightly lower in the trees and easier to photograph although still not full frame shots. We pretty much walked all the trails, heard and tried again to call the Painted Quail Thrush but missed that and also missed good views of Black-billed Brush Turkey as it ran from the area round its nest, but we did get a few self found new lifers, Grey Headed Mannikin, Magnificent Riflebird (eastern growler) and the split Papuan Spangled Drongo. We also saw for the second time a number of the birds from yesterday including Hooded Pitohui, Black Berrypecker, Frilled Monarch, Pheasant Coucal and White-throated Honeyeater.

We then headed to PAU. Where we had hopes of Papuan Frogmouth as the guide had been with Daniel and knew the likely tree for it. However without Daniel we had trouble gaining access and only after I went to the office and agreed to pay a small fee did they let us in, whereas 2 days earlier they had simply waved us through. Anyway after much searching we didn’t find the Frogmouth, but I was able to photograph the Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, a collared Kingfisher and see a lifer in Rufous Night Heron (Nankeen), so not a total waste of K14 .

Last night for a couple of weeks at Raintree but as we were having a last night in PNG here we decided to leave some Laundry and a few things we wouldn’t need to lighten the luggage load further.

Day 9 – Early breakfast and at the Airport for Flight to Mount Hagen and all checked in by 6.15 (we were advised by Sue to always be there 2 hours before as flights get overbooked, but a guy at the airport said that in May it is pretty safe to show up later and indeed on all our flights there were empty seats with some planes half empty) – everything looks good to go for flight at 8.30. However, 40 minutes before boarding the sign suddenly changes to 4 hour delay. We managed with two other Europeans to get Air Nuigini to provide a voucher for another Breakfast at the local Airways hotel. A more pleasant place to while a way the hours. We got the courtesy bus there and it was a very pleasant hotel with a pool and some grounds but much more of a big chain place than Raintree. However we did make some use of the time by birding the little walking track behind the pool after I saw some starlings fly in and found on eof our target birds a Silver lined Honeyeater which we thought might be tricky to find.

Anyway back to the airport and flight is delayed another hour but finally we take off for Mount Hagen, when we saw the landing strip and did a couple of attempted landing before getting down we understood why there could be delays getting in and out. We navigated the scrum to collect our luggage and found Kim (one of the owners of Kumul Lodge) on the flight side of the terminal (a very small hut really). We got the minibus just as the heavens opened it was lucky that we landed when we did, we then headed an hour up the mountain to Kumul. We dumped our backs quickly in the nice cabin but because of the rain and time (it was now 16.00) we weren’t going to get a birding walk this afternoon. There was nothing for it but to just sit on the balcony with some coffe and home made biscuits and see what comes to us (the balcony list here is hugely impressive), however the very heavy rain was keeping most things away. We did however get a few birds coming in and they were of course all lifers. They were Black-throated Robin, Fantail Berrypecker, Island Thrush and Common Smoky Honeyeater then we got the ubiquitous Willie Wagtail and finally a Black Kite. We meet both main guides at the lodge Max 1 the original guide and Max 2 (the guy with the Orchid Garden) our guide will mainly be Max1.

Off to change before dinner with the hope that it would be dryer tomorrow. Dinner was lovely homemade soup and then spicy chilli – very good and they had SP Brown beer to wash it down: Lovely.

Day 10 up at 4.40 for early breakfast and quick start to get to Blue Bird of Paradise display tree on road towards Wabag. Unfortunately the generator isn’t yet on so no shower, just a hand wash and dress by torch light. Still it will be worth it we hope.
Breakfast is good, full cook up with plentiful coffee but we are keen to be off, so I nip back to the room to grab our pack and manage to miss a male Ribbon Tail Astrapia flying past the dining room in the gloom (I’m not happy as we set off).

Things improve quickly as we stop the vehicle and the rain finally clears. Lots of unrecognisable bird song and then almost immediate views of: Black-billed Cuckoo Dove, Mountain Mouse Warbler and Large Scrub Wren. As we climb the path towards the forest we see a distant bird at the top of a tree – Blue BoP. We are able to climb the path and get great scope views of the displaying bird until we get disturbed by a female Superb BoP flying into the tree right in front of us where a male Superb then flies in and begins to display, it didn’t quite go into the full ball but it did the full wing raise and hold and preened for a bit before the silly female flew off. What a start.

We quickly added Tit BerryPecker, Pied Chat, Grey Streaked Honeyeater, Hooded Mannikin and Yellow-browed Melidectes before heading back to the lodge trails to look for a few special birds.

I had been told by Phil to mention Crested Satinbird and Crested Berrypecker as wanted, so Max took us to a fruiting tree where first the Berrypecker and then the Satinbird put on a show. The Satinbird is unbelievably bright (see below) it moves such a lot that getting focus in less than perfect conditions is really difficult but I did get a shot or too and some video. The only thing I can compare this with for brightness is a Andean Cock of Rock. Even the Flame Bowerbird we saw later pales in comparison. Still we are on a roll and can’t wait to visit the feeding area and then get out again.

At the feeder we got excellent views of Belford’s Melidectes, White-winged Robin, Friendly Fantail and Brehm’s Tiger Parrot but still no Sicklebill or Astrapia as we stopped for lunch. Then over lunch the rain came so it clear we could either bird form the Lodge and cabin balcony or go in the rain with little hope. We decided to sit in but this meant missing a chance to go to a Lesser BoP and Yellow-breasted Bowerbird site ( we did here later that perhaps these weren’t safe areas to visit and Max did try to get another site). Thankfully the rain although persistent was not as solid as yesterday afternoon and we saw loads of birds. Amongst the stars were Archbold’s Bowerbird, Brown Sicklebill (female and young male) and lots of Ribbon tailed Astrapia in various plumages. The supporting cast was also quite impressive including Regent Whistler, Rufous Naped Whistler, Painted Tiger Parrot and Crested Berrypecker.

This afternoon we also had to share the lodge as 3 Japanese ladies arrived and this more than doubled the number of foreigners in the Province according to Linda.

Another good dinner and tonight the upstairs room of the lodge is being used for an election meeting but disappointingly the tribal representatives come in western garb rather than in full highland regalia.

Off to bed early with reminder to Linda to put the generator on. Not only does she do that but she puts a paraffin heater in the cabin to raise the almost freezing temperature it is 9000 feet up here.

Day 11 – Early start and early breakfast agin but we have hot water and lighting, so big improvement, nut over breakfast Max tells us that the Japanese ladies want to come with us to the King of Saxony display site. While the youngest lady is obviously a keen birder her mother and grandmother are just there to point and click and made quite a noise on the balcony the day before so we suggest to Linda that perhaps they could go with Max 2 to see his Orchid Garden this morning and Max 1 can take them to the site this afternoon if dry. Result !. It probably would have been Ok but we didn’t want to scare off a shy BoP by having a large group of us go together. Also trail was pretty steep so not sure how well we would have grouped together to see the birds on the way up . Anyway what a fine after a scramble up the path the target bird showed himself and then moved onto the display tree and performed for almost half an hour and what a supporting cast, we had Rufous Throated Bronze Cuckoo, Orange billed Lorikeet, Grey Gerygone, Brown-backed Whistler, Black-breasted Boatbill, Black mantled Goshawk and the a Loria Satinbird. Max the broke the news to us that his house had been burned down as part of a feud between two local brothers, in actual fact all the houses on both sides of the road were burnt down. Max emphasised that we were pretty safe as locals stop fighting when foreigners are present but he would prefer to move on. So back to the lodge we went. Max went to try to find a safe Lesser BoP site we would do the trails round the ground.

More to come

It sounds like you had a great time birdwatching in PNG, the Raggiana leks at Sogeri is a must whenever I go back home as it's impossible to grow tired of.

It usually requires 4 or 5 days of birdwatching in Varirata to even have a remote chance of getting good views of some of the notorious skulkers present there, the Jewel Babbler being the most difficult of the three and I have obtained good views of this species less than a handful of times despite birdwatching in the area on and off for over 15 years. The Doria's Hawk at Varirata is a very good record, especially as it's a bird which appears to be difficult to find elsewhere in PNG.

It sounds like experienced the usual hassle waiting for your flight to Mt. Hagen. Aim curious to know when they are actually going to get around doing something about this, as the situation at Mt. Hagen never seems to improve. But then again it is usually worth the hassle to have the opportunity to stay a couple of days at Kumul Lodge, which can only be described as one of the finest birdwatching sites on New Guinea. It sounds like you scored with some mouth-watering birds there as well, aim especially jealous of the Archbold’s Bowerbird and Black-mantled Goshawk.

Aim very much looking forward to reading further about your travels on New GuineaB

Hi David,

Some quality birds already from your first few days in PNG.

Displaying Blue BoP & displaying Superb BoP together, Day 10 started with a bang, and sounded like a cracker all the way through!

Also looking forward to the rest...

Cheers

PNG continued.

Yes, great time and the loan of the Field Guide was invaluable. Thanks again Gareth.

Flight problems we were told were more due to a new system they have introduced rather than weather. We were more worried about landing in Tabubil but that was fine

Papua New Guinea continued

Day 11 – Early start and early breakfast again but we have hot water and lighting, so big improvement, but over breakfast Max tells us that the Japanese ladies want to come with us to the King of Saxony display site. While the youngest lady is obviously a keen birder her mother and grandmother are just there to point and click their cameras and made quite a noise on the balcony the day before so we suggest to Linda that perhaps they could go with Max 2 to see his Orchid Garden this morning and Max 1 can take them to the site this afternoon if dry. Result !. It probably would have been OK but we didn’t want to scare off a shy BoP by having a large group of us go together. Also trail was pretty steep so not sure how well we would have grouped together to see the birds on the way up. Anyway what a fine day, sunshine and warmth, after a scramble up the path the target bird showed himself on some twiggy branches and then moved onto the display tree in good light and performed with his enamel like head plumes for almost half an hour and what a supporting cast, we had Rufous Throated Bronze Cuckoo, Orange billed Lorikeet, Grey Gerygone, Brown-backed Whistler, Black-breasted Boatbill, Black mantled Goshawk and then a Loria Satinbird. We then saw a Male Brown Sicklebird calling and part displaying and a Stephanie’s Astrapia fly over. Max then broke the news to us that his house just across the way had been burned down as part of a feud between two local brothers, in actual fact most of the houses on both sides of the road were burnt down. Max emphasised that we were pretty safe as locals stop fighting when foreigners are present but he would prefer to move on as it wasn’t that safe for him here (this was at least 2nd time he’d been burnt out). So back to the lodge we went with views of Mountain Firetail, Canary Flycatcher and Long tailed Shrike on the way back. Max then went to visit another village to try to find a safe Lesser BoP site we decided to do the trails round the lodge grounds and then do the Orchid Gardens where Max 2 also lives.

Very good afternoon birding with better views of Ribbon Tailed Astrapia (male with full ribbons) and Crested Satinbird and another new bird in Papuan Rufescent Pigeon. Then just as the rain came we got really good views of Blue Capped Ifrata (unfortunately my camera displayed a battery error when I was about to photograph it), after much cursing I managed to clear the error but the bird had flown too far along but my mood was quickly lifted by Papuan Harrier, then a flock of beautiful Papuan Lorikeets with their lovely long tail streamers. Long tails are obviously the thing up here what with Astrapia’s, Sicklebills and Blue BoPs and now the Lorikeets.

Then came the rains and disappointingly it meant for the third night there was to be no night birding again. We did however get Black-faced Cuckoo Shrike and Modest Tiger Parrot from the balcony.
Food and drink was again good and we heard that the Japanese did get to see the King of Saxony BoP and a few other good birds so no hard feelings from them or guilt for us.

We settled up the bill with Linda and made arrangements for our trip down the Mountain to Mount Hagen.

Day 12 – after breakfast left the lodge at 6.00 and got to the airport just after 7.00. The airport wasn’t yet opened so we waited until security finally opened up the gate. It was a pretty grey morning with some mist and poor visibility so we were prepared for delays (but fortunately around 9.00 the mist started to clear). There was no mad rush for check in when the doors opened and we were ushered to the front of the queue. A local told us that as there are very few foreigners seen here we are treated with respect. Good new as we are wearing our fleeces, waterproofs and carrying books and toiletries in our pocket our cases are just within the limits. Important as we were told that even if you pay the excess baggage charge the luggage still might still not go. Check in was interesting our detailed were noted down in ledger then we were given a hand written boarding pass and luggage receipt. They would let us know when the plane was about to land. The rest of the passengers were taking huge amounts of vegetables (Broccoli, Potatoes, etc) with them. Getting then weighed to the limit then having the bags sealed for loading. One guy who had a few Kilos over the limit got into a heated discussion with the check in manager when he argued over the excess and he eventually was taken away by security and didn’t make the plan.

Good news – plane was landing and nearly on time, even better new weather forecast for Tabubil was good this morning so it was going to Tabubil first then Kiunga rather than other way round as scheduled. So we actually touched down in Tabubil on time despite 45 minute late departure. Landing in Tabubil was very interesting as you could see the huge scar of the OK Tedi Gold & Copper Mine just before final descent. The airport and general feel of Tabubil is weird it field like outback Australia and the security and safety aspects just don’t seem like the rest of PNG. To leave the airport you needed to either show you had work or somewhere to stay and as you left the airport your luggage is scanned for weapons, drugs, explosive and Betchel Nut (it’s banned here). Anyway finally through security with luggage and surprise it is sunny. We were told to expect rain and lots of it (think this is 2nd wettest place on earth as that is what guide book says... Unfortunately there is no guide. We have services of Samuel Kepuknai best known guide for west of PNG, for time in Tabubil, Kiunga and Kwatu but we can’t reach him on his mobile, so we left a message and contacted the hotel who sent the receptionist to pick us up. Arrived at hotel and checked in and the receptionist promised to let us know if she heard anything. She did, his vehicle had broken down and he was also going to be delayed by some road works on the Kiungu road. It would be late afternoon before he would arrive.
So to take advantage of dry spell we decide to just have a bit of an explore round the park and river. We quickly saw Pacific Swallow, Uniform and Glossy Swiftlet, Great Wood Swallow and then a couple of ones we thought might be more difficult Grey Crow which we twice saw getting mobbed (only place we saw these) and Scrub white eared Meliphaga. Then the rain came and boy did the heaven open, within 20 minutes there was a stream running past the sports hall in which we had take shelter. It was clear that rain wasn’t going to clear quickly so we headed back to the Cloudland’s for a late lunch and a short rest.

Call from Samuel received he would be outside by 16.00, so we met up but then he and Robert the driver needed to find some accommodation so it was 16.30 before we set off, Fortunately the rain was just finished so while it was cloudy very dull we were at least able to bird in the dry. We headed to Dablin Creek, intend was to drive part way up the creek and then bird up and down but unfortunately the vehicle was unable to make it up the newly gravelled road, so we left the van and walked.

Birds were scarce but of great quality, first we got Crinkle Collared Manucode (two birds) showing at the tops of trees which Samuel said was unusual, then Long-billed Honeyeater, Black headed Whistler and Island Leaf Warbler before started to hear the call of Carola’s Parrotia (unfortunately we could pick this one out we seemed to follow a yellow faced Myna every time it flew) further up the track we saw Orange-breasted Fig Parrot and Papuan Mountain Pigeon both new and Brown Cuckoo Dove and Black Butcherbird. Then back down the track before darkness and rain.

Back at Cloudlands we found food and drink to be the most expensive in PNG but we did get into the SP Export beer the Can with the Raggiana on the side.
Rain again meant no night walk.

More to follow

You got some very nice birds at Dablin Creek, it is probably one of the most reliable sites for Carola’s Parotia in PNG and I had distant views of a NG Harpy Eagle along the tracks there a couple of years ago.

Last time I went there was undisturbed forest surrounding most of the track, but I have heard that large tracts of forest has since been completely chopped down by the locals and replaced with fields for growing crops. Did you see any of this during your visit at Dablin Creek? and if so how much of the forest has been cleared? it would be a damn shame if true!

Cheers,
Iglezi

Iglezi - It is true parts of the forest have been cleared. The area just below the waterfall and pipe walkway are worst affected with some housing on the right side as you go up and some planting on a smallish scale on the left. I would estimate that perhaps 25% of the track no longer has significant forest alongside it.

Papua New Guinea (continued)

Day 13 Extract from Guide “Tabubil is situated in an area of mid-level rainforest in the foothills of the Star Mountains in remote Western Province. It is a mining town and the presence eof the mine has led to the development of a series of roads into the forest. Very wet, the mine site has one of the highest recorded rainfalls in the world, with the town itself averaging about 6m, so we can expect rain at any time of year”. Unfortunately too much rain had washed away the bridge and the track where an early start could give a very good chance of Shovel-billed Kingfisher, we would never know how good but for those planning future visits Edmund was bullish about finding the bird(s) once the bridge is repaired, whilst Samuel was less certain. So we went to Dablin Creek again first thing.

First up one of the Crinkle–collared Manucodes again it was uncharacteristically sitting on top of a tree and able to be scoped, then we got a female Magnificent BoP a lovely bird but a male would have been even better, although I understand that these are hard to see here. Next up were two absolute corkers a Mountain Peltops sitting out in the open and then a male Carola’s Parrotia which we were able to scope and see clearly it’s lovely whiskers and plumes even through it wasn’t displaying it was doing its “wolf whistle” call. It then became a bit of a Cuckoo Shrike day, with male and female Golden, Black Shouldered and Black Faced Cuckoo Shrikes all seen well by the time we decided to walk back down to the road, because believe it or not it was too sunny and hot and all the bird activity had stopped.

So back for lunch and by the time we were ready to go out in the afternoon, the rain was back. We decided to try for Teal and Torrent Flycatcher by the power station workings. Unfortunately due to the very heavy rains the tunnel through the mountain is closed from 7.30 to 16.00 next few months for re-enforcement. Luckily it wasn’t far off 4 o’clock so after a little wait we got through the tunnel and parked up by the power station workings. Samuel immediately saw a problem; they had dumped a load of gravel in the river so the levels were different and where he thought Salvtore’s Teal was guaranteed we would have to work for it. Also no obvious sign off the two other regular birds Torrent Flycatcher and Torrent Lark. Then the rain got really heavy, we took shelter under a mechanical digger and set up the scope. First we found a couple of the Torrent Flycatchers, which eventually flew closer from the far rocks onto the area right in front of us, then a female Greater BoP flew in and we got another lifer as Stout billed Cuckoo Shrike made an appearance. Then it went really quiet around us after a Brahminy Kite perched right on the mount beside us. In periods when the rain eased a little we tried up and down the river for the teal without success and Samuel didn’t know any other sites for this (we were told when back in Queensland that only other known site is in Tari so until someone else finds a new site or water levels return to normal here the Teal will prove elusive). Anyway soaked and ready for a shower and some hot food we headed back to vehicle and saw only a Tawny-breasted Honeyeater as were about to put away the bins.

Day 14 – just grabbed a couple of cereal bars for breakfast and went for the last time to Dablin Creek. As we started up the hill we met our now familiar Manucode (for us this must have been our easiest BoP to see). The rest of the species were all familiar, Black BerryPecker (not obscure), Yellow faced Myna, Lemon Bellied Flycatcher, Brown Oriole, etc until on the way back down we got a White-bellied Thicket Fantail which came right out into the open on the track, this excited Samuel as he said this was a real hard one to see.

As we were just about to drive back to Tabubil a Variable Goshawk flew right in front of us so not too bad a morning. After getting some fuel for the third time (fuel was rationed to 20 litres per car per day) we set off on the road to Kiunga.
What is really noticeable in PNG is how little bird activity there is between birding hot spots, with very little activity in areas which look as though they should be thriving. In a couple of hours driving including a few stops we only seen one new bird Moustached Tree Swift and then Brahminy Kite and Pacific Swallow.

On arriving at Kiunga we checked into the Kiunga Guest House. It doesn’t look much from the outside but the rooms are spacious, clean and tidy. The food good (although no choice) and the staff really friendly. After lunch Samuel introduced us to Edmund who would be our guide for the next few days in Kiunga and up river at Kwatu. We had noticed Samuel was pretty busy on his mobile and a little distracted at times, we found out this was due to him standing for election and having do to all the local campaigning and organising. Fortunately he has at least 3 very good lieutenants and we found Edmund at least as good on spotting and absolutely spot on with his calls.

This afternoon we went with Edmund and his cousin Glen (a new trainee guide) to KM17. Glen was happy to carry the scope around for us (and did so over the next five days and when he saw us the first thing he did was ask for it and almost seemed disappointed when I carried it for a short spell). He also had pretty good hunter’s eyes and when he saw something he would get Edmund on it. That afternoon we went to the Great BoP/Raggiana Lek and had reasonable sightings of both Birds, with the males being predominantly Great 4 or 5 doing the wing pose with Cream /Yellow display and couple of Raggiana with the Reddish plumes and then a few Hybrids with Orange / Cream plumes and a slightly different sounding call. Being afternoon the birds weren’t as active as in the morning so we didn’t spent that much time here. On the trails through the forest we got Malay Bronze Cuckoo, Greater Streaked Lory (found and scope for us by Glen), Crested Hawk(Basa) and Ornate Fruit Dove, around 5 o’clock we left the forest and stood at the roadside as a number of pigeons started to move, first up was a couple of really nice Purple tailed Imperial Pigeons, then came Pinion Imperial Pigeon and finally Pink Spotted Fruit Doves which although we’d seen them before were still a good sighting. Finally we saw Electus Parrot pretty close up.

Back at the hotel we discussed our plans with Samuel as we hoped to build in 2 opportunities to get to Bowerbird Hill before the last day in Kiunga just in case the weather set in or the birds up there didn’t show. So we agreed 5.30 start to go see the Bowerbird, back to hotel by 9.30 then on our way to Kwatu by 10.00 so we are there for an afternoons birding.
As advised by Sue we give Samuel our food preferences, so that we get something edible to eat at Kwatu, everything needs to come with us, so we also need to take our own beer, but as there is an election and lots of meetings and some trouble about – the liquor stores are all closed. Edmund though says he knows where he can get some (as it happened we could have just ordered extra in the guest house bar with food as we saw others do this when we came back and did it ourselves) but we go with Edmund plan.

Day 15 – cooked breakfast then off to Bowerbird Hill (I don’t know the road name). Viewing point is mound near a forest track just off the main road (however we saw only about 4 cars pass in 2.5 hours so not busy). First bird was a nice Rufous bellied Kookaburra, then we got Streak breasted Honeyeater, Common Koel, Red Cheeked Parrot and then a first a Papuan King Parrot, this was also a first for Edmund, I called it as flew in as it looked very similar to Australian King Parrot which I’d manage to see pretty well just weeks before. Edmund then got us a Western Black Caped Lory which is much darker than the Eastern and a Red flanked Lorikeet. There was then a shout of Flame Bowerbird – we all managed to see a female fly up and across the road and then look at it briefly in the scope. However when a male did eventually show I was the only one who saw it and by the time I got others looking in the right direction it had gone into the trees. Edmund and the guys have been looking around here for the birds bower but without success so most sightings are flyovers. Still a very good start to the day.
Back to the guest house, we get our luggage sorted, give Edmund some money for to get beer and meet up with Robert. He tells us Samuel has gone back to his house to get a cooler and the food and will meet us at the boat. After a bit of a delay Edmund turns up and we see everything being loaded onto the boat. They put a nice bench in for us to sit on and then we’re off. Unlike the roads there is some bird life along the river, although there is still a lot of hunting. Every kid has a slingshot or blow pipe or some weapon in PNG and Edmund tells us most kids practice on anything that moves so there are no manikins, finches, sparrows, pigeons etc in the towns or villages (we saw only one Feral Pigeon and a couple of sparrows outside Port Moresby on the whole trip). Still on the Fly river things are better and we quickly see Channel- billed Cuckoo, Sulphur Crested Cockatoo and Variable Goshawk, before a target bird Great billed Heron decided to follow the boat for a bit onto Elevala River through an area of unspoilt lowland rainforest,
On arrival at Kwatu (13.30) we are happy that accommodation is better than we feared, in particular Sarah is impressed that we have our own rain shower in a separate hut and a pit toilet all to ourselves. Then the bad news – we have no food and very little water and this is the one place in PNG (we are very close to Indonesian Border) where I haven’t been able to get a phone signal. Edmund is not very happy he missed dinner last night and breakfast this morning and has only had the sandwich we gave him at lunch time. I start to work out how I can make a couple of cereal bars, some peanuts and limited water last 3 days. Fortunately I have some water purification tablets so I take the ice water from the cooler and treat that so we at least can all fill our water bottles. But as we have a cook (with no food), boatman, plus Edmund, Glen and the two off us it’s obvious someone either needs to go to the nearest village an hour up river or pick up the food that Samuel has already bought. So the boatman goes off and we go for a walk but not before we cover our clothes in Sulphur powder and put on our leach socks as the flooded forest is infamous for its chiggers and leaches. The mood is gloomy but at least we start to see some new birds, first off a Golden Myna, then Black Sunbird and then Bowyers Cuckoo Shrike. In the forest we hear but can’t see Blue-Jewel babbler but can’t miss the massive Blyth’s Hornbill as they make a huge noise on take-off. In the forest we see Spot-winged Monarch and Black Berry pecker and as we emerge Greater Bird of Paradise. Final bird of the day is Papuan Flowerpecker (but this is now a split Olive / Red Capped so another new bird). We decide to have a shower and change as it is extremely humid. As we finish in near darkness we hear the boat and some cheers. The boatman is back with our food. It may just be tins of spam, corned beef, spaghetti and some bread and marmalade but when we thought it might just be Sago from the local village for three days it suddenly sounds very appetising. While the cook lights the fire and starts preparing dinner we crack open some beers and everyone is a lot more cheerful (except Glen who is too young for a beer). We still don’t have the bottled water but smoky tasting water with purifications tablets won’t be too bad). As expected rain starts before we finish dinner but I don’t think we would have taken on the trails even if it had been dry.

Before we retire to bed we're told to expect 12 Wire BoP with breakfast.

More to follow

PNG (almost finished)

Day 16 – up before dawn and lite breakfast of coffee, toast and jam. It is dull and gloomy but no rain. Scope is trained on tree just across the river. Edmund says we will know in next 10 minutes if we will have to go work for the 12 Wire or if it will display for us while we enjoy our coffee. 5 minutes later Edmund is focusing the scope and urging us to have a look. Sure enough it’s the 12 Wire BoP light isn’t vet good even for digiscoping although I do get a bit of video from which I’ve managed a few record shots but we are able to watch for next 20 minutes as the bird ups and downs and raises its wings and wires. I assume there must be a female nearby but all we can see is the male.

After the promised start we go through our ritual of beating each us with a sock filled with sulphur, it looks mad and smells odd but it did keep us protected when other people we had met had been badly affected by chiggers particularly in the previous flooded areas of forest. After a short boat trip seeing Shining Flycatcher and Palm Cockatoo we landed and went looking for some forest birds. First up was one of the Kwatu rarities White-bellied Pitohui, then Yellow bellied Gerygone, then some good views of Blythe’s Hornbill. I walked on with Edmund while Sarah tried to see something that Glen was pointing at, Edmund pointed out two beautiful Southern Crowned Pigeons just above us, I was amazed at just how big these birds were, almost double the size of an Imperial Pigeon. I tried to attract Sarah’s attention but just as she started along the tracks the birds flew into the forest with her getting barely a glimpse, not a good bird to dip on. Thankfully we didn’t have long to worry about this as Edmund was pointing and holding his ear. He could obviously hear something good just ahead. Glen gave him the scope and Edmund signalled for us to look quickly, I gave Sarah first look she smiled then let me look, it was a Hook-billed Kingfisher. I knew this was very difficult bird to see so gave Glen a look whilst I tried to photograph it, but it was too deep in the bushes, so we just enjoyed it through the scope for a few more seconds before it flew off.
Time to get back on the boat and try for the other bird Edmund had told me we would get this morning. In a tangle of vines a little red thing was climbing. However in the scope it was transformed into a really weird looking Red and White bird with a Yellow/Orange bill and two metallic green disks hanging from its rear. It was Male King Bird of Paradise – the bird was pretty static so I was able to at least video some of its display, Edmund reckoned the female wasn’t around or it would be doing some dancing around the vine but that was good enough for us and a great way to finish the morning.

Back to the lodge for lunch and a rest. Over lunch we managed to see our first Long tailed Buzzard fly across the river and a Lesser Black Coucal out in front of the lodge. In the tree out front we see a Large Fig Parrot and flying over a torpedo like Papuan Spine-tailed Swift.
The afternoon saw us search again for Blue Jewel Babbler without success, but Edmund heard Pesquet’s (Vulturine) Parrot calling and after a chase through the forest we managed to see two of these huge parrots which do look like vultures. We then heard and saw a flock of NG Rufous Babblers, and also the new Golden Monarch, and Yellow bellied Longbill. As the light began to fade we added to our pigeon list with Orange bellied Fruit Dove and then finished off with a third new BoP of the day a Glossy Mantled Manucode. It may be hot and steamy and fully of leaches and insects but it also has some excellent birds here. Off course it then rains again so no owls or nightjars again tonight. Tomorrow we have a morning here to try for some of the birds we are still wanting before heading back to Kiunga in the afternoon.

Over dinner we finish the last beers and I set up the telescope for my first bird of tomorrow.

PNG the end

Day 17 – 12 Wire BoP is on the same tree. So easy daily tick while waiting for Breakfast. Rain is off and it’s brightening up. We are going to a different part of the forest a bit where the water has just dropped enough to go through in Wellingtons. First bird on the river is Palm Cockatoo, followed by Great Billed Heron and then a White-bellied Pitohui. When we land we climb a little hill where Edmund tells us he can hear Blue Breasted and Hooded Pitta. He calls the Hooded Pitta and tells us to watch out at the tree stump. Sure enough the Hooded Pitta comes out and looks straight at us. He then tries calling the Blue- Breasted and it seems to be coming but gets disturbed. Edmund reckons that there are some other people in the forest making the birds more skittish than usual. We are close to the border and not far from a refugee camp so that could be the source. Disappointment doesn’t last long as Edmund gets us a Common Paradise Kingfisher in the scope and I finally sight a Rusty Mouse Warbler (must have been about the 20th we’ve heard. The birds then came fairly thick and fast as a couple of mixed flocks gave us Black Sided Robin, Broad billed Fairy Wren and then a Wallace’s Fairy Wren, plus some by now regular but beautiful birds like Golden Cuckoo Shrike, Golden Myna and Orange Breasted Fig Parrot. Then as we headed back to the boat Edmund called a Little Paradise Kingfisher, it was well hidden in dense vegetation but unlikely on previous occasion when we were able to get scope views the scope fell apart (well slight exaggeration the focus and bracket came off and we couldn’t use it so no decent views (in fact as we saw only a movement we didn’t count it). Over lunch managed to do a temporary repair and we were good to go for the afternoon.

Boat trip back towards Kiunga and then after about 45 minutes, Edmund cut a trail across an island (the boat would meet us at the other side) the first part of the walk was pretty uneventful – no birds. But then in pool in the centre of the island we got Azure Kingfisher and then Sooty Thicket Fantail and one of the smallest parrots in the world a Yellow capped Pygmy Parrot. Into the boat and arrived back in Kiunga before dark.

After a few beers we agreed we would try again for the male Flame Bowerbird tomorrow.

Day 18 It seems almost too easy we arrive and then with 10 minutes a male Flame Bowerbird flies over and shows for us all. So we challenge Edmund with Long billed Cuckoo which he manages to call in for us. Even this far into the trip there are still quite a few new birds Plain Honeyeater and Beautiful Fruit Dove (Glen had been calling this song for 5 days and we finally saw one). After a bit of a walk around the hill we had a nice perched Grey headed Goshawk and then the final new bird of the morning a Papuan Hanging Parrot.

After lunch Edmund had persuaded Samuel to get us a boat so that we could go up river to try again for Southern Crowned Pigeon (didn’t get it) and Emperor Fairy Wren which we found in a bit of scrub in the heavily flooded area. As we arrived back in Kiunga the heavens opened and didn’t stop.

Day 19 – went in the pouring rain to KM17 to see Raggiana and Greater BoP, they were displaying but it seemed half hearted in the rain. So back to the hotel, get packed and head to Kiunga airport. Finally it stops raining and after check in at the airport hut we managed to see Yellow-eyed Starling and Willie Wagtail on the fence.

Arrive in Port Moresby early afternoon – still no Daniel (we did hear the next day that he is improving and almost better). So we decided just to do a little bit of souvenir shopping rather than birding before our flight back to Cairns tomorrow.

Spendid report!
Gives a real sense of the issues arising while birding in more remote areas.
As always, people matter. A good guide and some patience will do wonders.

Would be nice to know if Samuel won the election.

Back In Australia

Day 20 was largely a travel day. Early transfer to airport and then morning flight to Cairns.

Back in our comfort zone. Pick up Car and try to find Acacia Court hotel. We new it was on the promenade with a seaview, so couldn’t be too hard to find. After 20 minutes we decided to try the road one back from the sea, fortunately car park was on this road. Checked in and Manageress told us that Sue had requested a room on 7th Floor with seaview so we could birdwatch from the balcony. She checked and room was just about ready. Sure enough you could scope the waders from the balcony, mainly Masked Lapwings but with Red Capped Plover, Pied Oystercatcher and Greater Sand Plover.

After unpacking rang Sue and arranged to go up to Cassowary House for a debrief and to collect our luggage. Over a cup of coffee we gave our update to Sue, and one of guides who works for Sicklebill Safaris (Jun I think) and a German chap who had arrived minutes before and was about to start his trip. Even without trying we saw Spotted Catbird, MacLeay’s Honeyeater and Hornbill Friarbird in the trees and then on a little walk down Black Mountain Road we got Bridled Honeyeater and Brown Cuckoo Dove.

In the evening decided to try the seafood buffet – highly recommended for anyone staying the area.

Day 21 – Last full days birding as last couple of days in Brisbane are mainly for chilling and a bit of culture. So we decided to do Yorkies Knob, the Catana Wetlands near by, the Botanic Gardens / Millennium Ponds and then the shore by the hotel. Not a lot at Yorkies Knob, just some Laughing Kookaburra, Silver Gull, Spotted Collared Dove and Australian Ibis, Catana Wetlands were much better with a few new birds Yellow Honeyeater, Crimson Finch and Silver Crowned Friarbird and lots of other like Yellow Oriole, Metallic Starling and Striped Honeyeater which we hadn’t see too often.
In the botanic garden and along the walkways to the ponds we had Broad-billed Flycatcher and White-gaped Honeyeater, Comb Crested Jacana, Orange legged Spurfowl, Brush Turkey, Magpie Lark and huge flocks of Rainbow Lorikeets as well as a very photogenic Sacred Kingfisher.On the beach before the tide came in we added a few trip birds like Caspian and Gull billed Tern, Grey Tailed Tatler as well as Great Knot, White-faced, Striated and Pied Heron but the star was a Black Bittern that actually flew from the trees at the far end showed out in the open for a few minutes before flying towards the airport where I’m sure the reeds and marshes were much more to his liking.

I'll leave it at that I think. Sorry for all the typos and spelling mistakes and lack of Bold / Colour

David

Great report David. Some amazing birds I'd love to see!

Great report of a fantastic trip!