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A tale of ten tapaculos - Colombia 2010 (1 Viewer)

11/10/10 - Las Tangaras

I left El Carmen in time to be at Las Tangaras for first light, collecting the forest guard Huvernay en route and seeing Band-winged Nightjars on the road. The reserve is not far from the town, set in steep forest full of western Andean specialities including lots of the Chocó endemics restriced to western Colombia, some reaching into NW Ecuador. There are several main targets here, but a big supporting cast and I had allocated the second 'spare day' to increase my chances of connecting with some of them.

Before Trevor had left for Bogotá, he had given me detailed gen for the site and this was to prove very useful indeed. We parked on the road below the reserve, and had breakfast accompanied by the first mixed flock of the day with Red-headed Barbet, Capped Conebill and various tanagers. In a tree above the car were 6 Toucan Barbets - today was going to be good!

Well what can I say? Las Tanagaras rocks. The day was packed with birds with some of the bext mixed flocks I have ever seen and Chocó endemics everywhere. I could have spent a week here.

A trail starts at the roadside, heading up through pasture to the forest proper. A huge solitary tree is a regular site for White-headed Wren and the briefest blast of tape produced 9 of these huge wrens, churring and chattering as they probed the epiphytes for food.

Trevor had suggested a plan of action - get to the ridge quickly as this is the only real chance for Gold-ringed Tanager which moves off to feeding areas early in the day. Score this one and then work your way back down. Having seen GRT in Colombia before, I was too easily diverted by the sheer number of goodies and very quickly decided that GRT (nice a bird as it is) would not be featuring on the day's menu.

Only 10 minutes or so into the forest, the variety of calls ahead signalled a mixed flock. The steep slope meant we were suddenly surrounded by a commotion of birds as it became quickly apparent this wasn't any old mixed flock. One of the first in the bins was a Black and Gold Tanager - a major target. This rather stolid chunky tanager was feeding on fruits in the subcanopy and was one of the birds I most wanted here. As it turned out, Trevor was right: they are common at Las Tangaras and most mixed flocks contained a few of these endemics. The second bird was a Fulvous-dotted Treerunner, a Chocó speciality, and as I followed it up the branch it was working, it crossed paths with two Pacific Tuftedcheeks! Higher up were Glistening-Green Tanagers, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers , a male Barred Becard and Uniform Treehunter, as well as swirls of Tangara tanagers and tyrannulets. We followed the flock for some time until I was rudely diverted by the song of the very local Chocó Vireo from the edge of the flock further up the trail. Sadly, the bird slipped away but given that this species is apparently seasonal here, this was a good sign.

Tearing ourselves away from this exuberant mass of birds, we headed upwards. Trevor had told me about a territory for the recently-discovered Alto Pisones Tapaculo. I hadn't heard a single tapaculo since we arrived and I settled down expecting a long wait. One phrase from the i-Pod and from the corner of my eye, a small grey shape scuttled through a gap in the undergrowth and dropped from a fallen branch to the leaf litter. I waited. The shape moved right, almost completely concealed by ferns. I decided against further tape and stayed put. Amazingly, the small grey shape jumped up onto a low twig, revealing itself as an Alto Pisones Tapaculo, before scampering up a vertical sapling to a height of 4 metres or so. Bizarre. It looked down at me, then launched itself into the air in what it no doubt considered an elegant proof of birds' mastery of the air and glided across the trail. The fact that it lost 2 metres altitude in less horizontal distance suggested it had not done this many times before: tapaculos are hardly built for flight. Landing behind me, it burst into song confirming the identification. This species was only discovered in 1992 by Gary Stiles and is still only known from a tiny handful of localities. The song is distinctive - a series of harsh rolling churrs - and I heard it several more times during the day. Nariño Tapaculo is also common at Las Tangaras so, as always with these birds, a singing individual is vital to confirm ID. The APT made ten tapaculos so far - gotta love these tiny secretive birds.

As the tapaculo continued to sing, a Yellow-breasted Antpitta sang its clear whistle from a short distance ahead. Inching up the trail, I glimpsed the culprit a few feet away but it melted away. After a lengthy spell of cat-and-mouse it was Huvernay who found the bird singing in a mossy wet tangle just off the trail. It gave stellar views as it sang, throat pulsing and tail flicking. Very nice. Less expected was a Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper on wet rocks nearby - although relatively common in SE Brazil, this was my first in the Andes. Olive Finch sang from the same gulley although proved very uncooperative, and a Fulvous-breasted Flatbill showed well.

We returned to the car for lunch adding Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant, Black Solitaire, Olivaceous Piha, the outrageously-beautiful Purplish-mantled Tanager and others. A party of Sharpe's Wrens got my pulse racing as these often travel with Crested Ant-Tanager, another major target. I had trawled for these at all the usual spots with no success, even though one birder had mentioned having to virtually fight them off in order to see other birds! They like streams, waterfalls and wet gulleys and are very vocal but the i-Pod had produced no results and the wrens were alone today.

Huvernay knew a few sites for the Ant-Tanager lower down the road, and so began an afternoon of staring at tanagerless streams and cascades. We did find Red-bellied Grackles (new for the trip) moving with a party of Russet-backed Oropendolas. These charismatic birds fed just off the road and were much appreciated - real favourites of mine. White-naped Brush-Finch was also new for the trip as was Flame-rumped Tanager. The road dropped in altitude from the reserve and we started to see some birds of lower elevations such as beautiful Silver-throated and Rufous-throated Tanagers in the Cecropias along the forest edge.

Admitting defeat, we spent the last hour of daylight at the hummingbird feeders by the reserve entrance clocking up Velvet-Purple Coronet, Violet-tailed Sylph, Brown and Collared Inca, Greenish Puffleg and Fawn-breasted and Empress Brilliants.

So ended what had been an awesome day of birding and I headed back to El Carmen knowing I had another full day tomorrow at this incredible site.
 
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I don't think it's too wordy at all. How did you keep track of all this activity?
If you have them, I'd like to see more pictures of places you stayed.

Steve
 
Las Tangaras

1. Huvernay on the ridge above the forest
2. Crested Ant-Tanager site (note the lack of red birds in the photo..)
3. Black and Gold Tanager - totally crippling.
4. Alto Pisones Tapaculo
5. Googy Grasshopper sp
 

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Las Tangaras hummer feeders

1. Brown Inca
2. Violet-tailed Sylph
3. Velvet-Purple Coronet
4. Greenish Puffleg
5. Purple-throated Woodstar
 

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I don't think it's too wordy at all. How did you keep track of all this activity?
If you have them, I'd like to see more pictures of places you stayed.

Steve

Cheers Steve. You can't beat a good mixed flock - the only rival when birding the neotropics is a good antswarm!
 
12/10/10 - Las Tangaras

This was a bonus day and I intended to make the most of it. Ana, a Colombian botanist, asked if she could along - she was staying in El Carmen with Huvernay's family. It was interesting to get an insight into some of the orchids and other plants.

One of the first birds of the morning was an adult Plain-breasted Hawk sat on the road mantling prey. Leaving the road, good birds began to appear - a very confiding Black Solitaire, Handsome Flycatcher, Rufous-rumped Antwrens (showing much better here than at Reinita) and a pair of Orange-breasted Fruiteaters (yet another Chocó endemic). New-for-trip tyrannids included Variegated and Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Handsome Flycatcher and a wing-flicking Slaty-capped Flycatcher. Alto Pisones and Nariño Tapaculos both showed well again.

In a similar place to yesterday, the delicate song of a Chocó Vireo floated down from a huge emergent tree next to a landslide. I rushed up the trail, which circled the landslide and gained height. The bird sang again and was quickly located feeding in the very outer branches of the canopy, alongside a male Blackburnian Warbler. This recently-described species is another still only known from a handful of sites and is irregular at this one at least. Some great views showed all the features of what was a much more distinctive bird than most references suggest.

Attention was disrupted by the arrival of another mixed flock. This one contained the usual suspects (Glistening-green Tanagers really are common here) but also a pair of Rufous-crested Tanagers were new for me.

We headed back down, trawling for the ant-tanagers. No sign, so I decided to try further down the road again. Several waterfalls later, at yet another steep gulley, there was a response. Another play of the tape. The birds answered repeatedly from above the road but proved difficult to get on to initially - several false alarms being sparked by the accompanying Sharpe's Wrens. Then there they were - a group of agitated Crested Ant-Tanagers singing loudly back at me, crests raised. The whole flock moved down to the road, gliding across into the steep valley below us where they continued to call. My last Ant-Tanager in the bag!

The last hour of daylight was spent with the hummers but Las Tangaras had one last treat for me - a pair of Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonias tarting about next to the shelter as they repeatedly returned to collect moss and lichen. Ignoring their reputation as flighty, they gave extended scope views even diverting Ana from her orchids.
 
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Chlorophonia fest :t:
 

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13/10/10 - Las Tangaras onwards

This was my last morning in the area and I had two choices - to return to Las Tangaras in the hope of locating some really difficult species (Cloudforest Pygmy-Owl, Bicoloured Antvireo etc) or to try a different site which gives the chance of a bird only a committed neotropical birder could prioritise. There was no choice - the latter won out. In fact, one of the reasons for using a spare day here was to allow this option...

Driving to the site in the dark, the first surprise of the morning was a young Fasciated Tiger-Heron which flew low over the road from the river alongside and vanished up a rocky stream.

The main bird in question fell surprisingly easily at the precise site given to me by Trevor in a mixed flock in a forest patch. Scanning the flock produced a Yellow-green Bush-Tanager - yet another Chocó special and yet another enigmatic bird which is inexplicably (to me at least) localised and at few if any reliable sites. Although appearing dull in most illustrations, this is another species which was much more distinctive in real life, being a unique olive-yellow with dusky greyish cheeks. This mega-rarity was target of the day and generated some spontaneous dancing in the middle of the road and a celebratory breakfast interrupted by a singing pair of Black-headed Brush-finches right by the car.

A Coral Snake on the road was aggressive, flattening a partial hood and looking ready to strike so I gave it a wide berth. It was time to head back to El Carmen and then for another long drive, this time to Urrao.
 
1. Remnant forest patched home to Yellow-green Bush-Tanager (and what else?)
2. Orchid sp
3. Coral Snake
 

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Gripping stuff Jonathan, looking forward to the next instalment. Tangaras sound excellent. Is the reserve with reasonable walking distance from the town?


Great info Robert, thanks... will let all interested clients know about it immediately!
have a good trip here and hope our birding paths cross in February so we can meet..
Diego.

Hi Diego, yes would be nice to bump into you at some point. With regard to the fares, the cheap ones on the Iberia website seem to be getting more difficult to get , but Expedia still have the low prices available for more dates, so worth trying them. For example the dates I am going 29/1 to 26/02, Iberia £570, Expedia £487.
 
Robert - sounds like you're getting flights a few 100 pounds less than I did!
Las Tangaras is too far to walk from town but I'm sure you could sort a moped or something similar.
 
13/10/10 - Colibri del Sol

I was back in El Carmen mid morning and on the road to Urrao, driving over the high pass leading to the town. We had arranged to be met at Colibri del Sol at 3pm and the drive is a long one, so I did little birding along the road. Munchique Wood-Wrens were singing in the elfin forest, but we missed the Tanager Finch spot until we had passed it and there was not enough time to retrace our steps. This one will have to wait until another visit to Ecuador. Flammulated Treehunter called briefly but was unresponsive, and a mixed flock held Grass-Green, Lachrymose Mountain and Blue-capped Tanagers.

We got to Urrao on time, and met Luis Rubelio, the forest guard, who was waiting with the horses. There are two options to reach the lodge. One is to walk through the pastures until you reach the reserve itself. The alternative is to ride. Walking takes about 2 hours; the horses take an hour and a half. I'd elected to ride, thinking it would be a scenic enjoyable ride. Scenic certainly. Enjoyable in places.

The first 40 minutes or so were brilliant, gradually working our way up the long valley with misty forest-covered mountain slopes on either side. As we got higher, the effects of all that recent rain became apparent. The horses had prechosen paths on what was obviously the only route they ever followed. Even if persuaded to take an easier path, they crossed back to their preferred track at the first opportunity. Usually this would no doubt be fine, but the path involved was thick with deep mud and standing water, meaning my horse stumbled on several occasions. Luckily without serious results. Some sections were incredibly steep and there were multiple crossings of rocky white-water streams. All very exciting, but I decided at that point to return on foot after my stay, not fancying the steep descents.

Eventually we reached the lodge, in idyllic settings beneath the reserve. The forest is mostly well above the house still, although reafforestation efforts are underway for the pastures surrounded the building. I admired the hummers on the feeders - Mountain Velvetbreast, Whitebellied Woodstar, Greenish Puffleg, Collared Inca and Tyrian Metaltail and dumped my bags. Luis sorted the horses and his family were preparing food so I walked up the river a short distance, crossed the ricketty bridge and tried my luck at the antpitta feeder.

Within minutes of my settling down on the comfortable bench, a pari of Stripe-headed Brush-Finches came in to feed, bashing the large beetle grubs into pieces before eating tiny fragments of the spoils. It was great to get such good prolonged views of what are very attractive birds. Better however was to come, with the arrival of one then two Urrao/Fenwick's Antpittas. These big dark antpittas bounced in and the Brush-Finches retreated. A newly-described species and the subject of huge controversy in Colombia (described twice under two separate scientific and common names by different people in events which have polarised opinion) they are dark brown above and deep ashy-grey below. The birds ate some worms, dug some soil, came to within a few feet and then bounded back into the bamboo. One vital endemic under the belt!
 
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Hi Diego, yes would be nice to bump into you at some point.

Absolutely Robert, my itinerary for February 2011 trip looks like that below, it would be nice if by chance we match to be nearby at any of the locations.. unfortunately, this is a private trip for a couple in a small car so I can not offer any help.. thanks again for the useful info on airfares!


Feb 03 - La Vega (E Andes)
Feb 04 - Victoria (Magdalena Valley)
Feb 05 - Rio Claro (Magdalena Valley)
Feb 06 - Piha Reserve (C Andes)
Feb 07 - Piha Reserve (C Andes)
Feb 08 - Jardin (W Andes)
Feb 09 - Jardin (W Andes)
Feb 10 - Rio Blanco (C Andes)
Feb 11 - Rio Blanco (C Andes)
Feb 12 - Otun (C Andes)
Feb 13 - Montezuma (W Andes)
Feb 14 - Montezuma (W Andes)
Feb 15 - Montezuma (W Andes)
Feb 16 - Ibague (C Andes)
Feb 17 - Bogota (E Andes)
Feb 18 - Rogitama Reserve (E Andes)
 
Gripping stuff Jonathan, looking forward to the next instalment. Tangaras sound excellent. Is the reserve with reasonable walking distance from the town?

Robert, I have not visited Las Tangaras area yet by myself, but I know logistics there are not the easiest and as it is one of the recently accessible areas the BEST THING IS GETTING INFO AND LOGISTICAL SUPPORT DIRECTLY BY PROAVES/ECOTURS... highly recommended!
 
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