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Indochina 2023: Cambodia, southern Vietnam, and Laos (3 Viewers)

Dec 17: Da Lat

We started out this morning with a couple of hours walking the grounds of Hoa Son Dien Trang in Ta Nung Valley. This was a rather strange resort/tourist attraction, with an assortment of unoccupied cabins and tents and gardens featuring odd sculptures intended for selfies. We had the place to ourselves at 6:00 am, and the grounds and surrounding forest were full of birds. First up, we flushed a Large-tailed Nightjar, which obligingly perched for photos. We walked farther down and watched some of the mixed-species flocks, notably containing our main target for this spot, the endemic Gray-crowned Crocias. Here we also connected with Rufous-backed Sibia (endemic black-backed form). A walk up the stream at the bottom of the resort gave us brief views of Slaty-backed Forktail. Some of the grass near the buildings contained actual Hill Prinias, with their masks and very long tails, and a small group of obliging Vietnamese Greenfinches that came to forage right on the road in front of us before being flushed by the approaching groundskeepers. We made our way back to the entrance just as the place opened up for day tourists, with a busload of Korean tourists making their way down and rain starting to fall - a good time to move on!


We spent much of the afternoon at a different hide, again waiting in vain for Collared Laughingthrush. This hide had much less activity than the one we had visited the previous day, with long stretches of no birds to be seen. Large Niltava and Little Pied Flycatcher were the only somewhat regular visitors, with brief visits by Mountain Fulvetta, Lesser Shortwing, and Eyebrowed Thrush. A Mountain Tailorbird made a couple of rounds, singing its delightful song. I occasionally wandered the short trail between the hide and the road, picking up Black Eagle overhead and Necklaced Barbet sitting in a tree overhead.

 

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How was your time birding in Laos? I'm considering spending some time there.
Ahhh I never did finish this trip report, and unfortunately I left potentially the most useful bits out - the areas I visited independently! I wasn't good about taking notes, so I'll give a quick overview based on memory and reviewing my ebird checklists:

I rented a car from Vientiane and drove the ~5 hours to the mountain village of Bahn Na Hin. The road, despite being a major highway, was quite atrocious at times, being more pothole than asphalt. It was passable in the sedan I had rented, though I did have to pay for tire damage when I returned the vehicle. My first birding stop was at The Rock Viewpoint just before getting to Na Hin. This is a facility that has a boardwalk leading into the surrounding karst outcrops, and I connected with my main target fairly quickly - Bare-faced Bulbul. The birds were very accommodating (photos in the checklist), and the views of the surrounding landscape were stunning as well.


I spent the next couple days visiting a variety of locations within about an hour's drive of Na Hin. In most of the forest areas, birding was quite slow - even with several hours of effort, most checklists were in the 14-24 species range, even in the early morning. At this point, I can no longer remember which species I was trying to target, and I remember missing a lot of hoped-for species, though the bulbul had been pretty much the whole reason I went to Laos, so anything else was just bonus.


On my return to Vientiane, I stopped to bird the Paksan Wetlands, basically an area of paddy fields just outside the village of Paksan. It had a decent variety of waterbirds and open-country species. It also made for a good mid-way break on the return journey.


My last evening in Laos, I visited the starling roost within Vientiane, hoping to catch up with a few of the rarer starlings. I managed to pick out a single White-shouldered Starling among the masses of mynas and Chestnut-tailed Starlings


All in all - the one endemic species (Bare-faced Bulbul) was easy to connect with, and I found independent travel to be easy as well. More generally though, birding was slow and frustrating in most areas.
 

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