Mike, I load my photos into MAC OSX Photos app, then crop to the subject, then export. Full sensor resolution of this camera is 4608 x 3456 (15,925,248 pix). This 1/250s image was cropped to 1178x884, though your re-upload shows 1000x750. I'm not sure why that is, when I download this image from my post, it shows 1178x884. Anyhow, typical full image size is 4-8MB, depending on the JPG mode I have the camera set (Normal, Fine, or Super-Fine).I would be interested to see the full image as you say cropped,do you mean cropped or just re sized,i took the liberty of downloading one of the Canada's,the file is too small to do much with and the light looks poor but i would love to have the full file to look at.I just wonder if your over cropping as the file looks very noisy and is breaking up,i could get the same results from my Nikon D7200 in poor light and over cropping.
The Stylus 1 has optical image stabilization. I'm beginning to wonder if the IBIS isn't able to handle longer focal lengths as well as optical stabilization? Unfortunately, I can't do direct side-by-side comparisons.
A pertinent question Jim. I have my left hand holding the lens, supporting the lens from underneath, with left elbow held against my body, right hand holding right side of camera, index finger to press shutter button. The very first day I had the camera, taking pics of the Common Redpolls, I probably wasn't doing this, but since then, with all comparison pics, I've been paying close attention to my stance and camera holding.How are you holding your setup? You do know that with a long lens one hand should be supporting the lens and the other should be on the shutter button?
Ron, I agree S-IS 1 is probably more appropriate. This last set of 4 pictures used S-IS Auto, as Graham had asked for some shots using factory default settings. Previous posted photos, starting with post #24, all were taken with S-IS 1.I am running out of ideas but I see you are using S-IS AUTO for the IBIS setting. You could try S-IS1, which is the setting I use on my E-M1. S-IS1 stabilizes in all directions, whereas S-IS AUTO detects the panning direction and applies the appropriate image stabilization. It might be worth a try.
Ron
Thanks Niels, those are good suggestions. I've been cropping to about 1200x900, since I thought that was the maximum size I could upload to the forum. If there's a way to upload larger images, I'd be glad to do that. I'll be doing some controlled shutter speed testing on static subjects this weekend. These last 4 shots used LN (Normal) JPG output, as part of the "Factory Default" testing. Going forward, I'll set it to LSF (Super-Fine). I suppose eventually I'll get into raw shooting, but I suspect my current problems are much, much, larger than the difference between Super-Fine and Raw.For comparison: with my panasonic GH2 which has a similar size sensor, I most often crop to about 1800 pixels or more on the long side and then reduce size of the image to around 1000 pixels on the long side. Because of that reduction, I usually use a little extra sharpening at the end. If you insist on jpg output, I would set at ultra fine and let it stay there.
My insistence that you use a faster shutter speed now during testing was to allow you to take out the possibility of movement causing the blurriness. If you cannot get a sharp image with fast shutter speed, then you never will. Ibis is almost irrelevant at the really fast shutter speeds, so any blurriness is almost certainly due to the quality of the lens or to the quality of your focus. Once you become convinced those two are good, then you can start using slower shutter speed to figure out how far your ibis will take you.
Niels
but I suspect my current problems are much, much, larger than the difference between Super-Fine and Raw.
OK, four more test photos, not everything that was asked for, but all I had time for today. These were all taken after a complete factory settings reset, shot at full 300mm zoom, full camera auto-focus, using a central point. Images cropped to roughly 1200x900. Auto-IBIS on, as it is by default, single drive mode, no anti-shock.
Pic #1 was a full iAuto hand-held, of a hydrant out my car window while waiting for a train. 1/250, f6.7, ISO640. Train was done before I had a chance to try more. Quite Blurry.
Pic #2 was a full iAuto hand-held, of a Goose about 30' away, moving very slowly. 1/250, f6.7, ISO400. Quite Blurry.
Pic #3 was speed priority, hand-held, of a Goose, again moving very slowly. 1/1000, f7.1, ISO1600. Better than #2.
Pic #4 was a full iAuto tripod shot, indoors, of one of my kids toy birds, using remote shutter from O.I. Share on my phone. 1/13, f6.7, ISO1600. I did take a hand-held shot, but due to the very low speed, it was obviously very blurry, so didn't attach it here.
So, Pic #1 is similar to my first iAuto shots with this camera, quite blurry. Increasing the speed to 1/1000 made a much more clear shot, so it would appear the blur is hand shake related. At 300mm, 1/250s, I would have expected IBIS to handle this for a more crisp shot. Have I simply run up against the limits of IBIS?
I need to do tripod testing during the day, when I can get shutter speeds up to typical outdoor shots.
That's an interesting thread, using the 400 lens with metabones. He has some very sharp photos through a window, far better than what I've been able to achieve. He notes that the large mass of this lens really helps hand-held steadiness, as compared to the 75-300. I also wonder how much difference there is between the M5 autofocus and the M1 auto-focus. Even with static subjects, and a single central AF point, my M5 sometimes won't focus on the central object, and I'm forced to either refocus, or MF.I have read both kinds of statements regarding the Oly lens, and I feel there might be as much if not more sample variation in that lens as in the pana 100-300. Disclaimer: I have a pana lens so no personal experience with the oly lens.
On the other hand, ibis limitations? Check out this thread and especially follow the link in the first post to a guy who is happy with a non-IS 400 mm lens on the em1: http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=313708
Niels
Would love to see what another lens does, a known good version of the same lens would be real interesting.though occasionally AF would be way off.