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Effects of Hard Cold On Noctivid (1 Viewer)

dwever

Well-known member
So I have the NVD 8X42 living in their case in a car-safe in fairly severe cold (NVD’s are visible in the first picture front of parka), -11 to 22 degrees Fahrenheit in Wasilla, Alaska. In Fairbanks I would bring them in as they run 20-35 degrees colder.

Should I be bringing them in doors, or is this practice fine? They seem to be just fine.

Thank you.
 

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So I have the NVD 8X42 living in their case in a car-safe in fairly severe cold (NVD’s are visible in the first picture front of parka), -11 to 22 degrees Fahrenheit in Wasilla, Alaska. In Fairbanks I would bring them in as they run 20-35 degrees colder.

Should I be bringing them in doors, or is this practice fine? They seem to be just fine.

Thank you.

Bring them indoors when not using them for long periods, But, remember it's the rapid changes in temperature, in a moist environment, that is the most harmful. :cat:

Bill
 
I would only store low budget binos outside in the car permanently.

BTW: nice looking dog. German shepherd, German binos.. what else do you own coming from the Old World?
 
Sent the following e-mail to Brian at Leica Sport Optics. If you know the answer, or if I need to send it to a different part of Leica, please ring in. THANKS!

“Brian,

As you can see from the picture, I am using my Noctivids in pretty cold conditions (-9 to 28 F in Southern Alaska the past month). I have been warned that bringing the bins directly from a warm vehicle out into sub freezing temperatures can be harmful to the Noctivid due to the rapid and dramatic temp change.

So, I have been bringing them out in the supplied Leica slightly insulated case, and waiting 20 minutes for them to gradually acclimate to the cold, and do the same going back in.

Of course this is time consuming and a royal pain.

1. Is this necessary?

2. And if so, below what temperature?

THANKS!

Picture is this morning at sunrise in Wasilla.
 

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I've used all of my bins in temps as low as -30 C [greater with wind-chill], taking them straight from warm to cold and back again, with no ill effects for 40 years.
 
Taking them from a warm inside to a cold outside is a great way to check whether the glass is still airtight.
If they are not, there will probably be moisture condensing inside the objective lenses. That is a signal to send them in for a refurbishment.

Have to say, I never understood why the insides of the better glasses are not fitted with desiccant pods. It would cost very little and be a good backstop to the normal weather sealing.
 
Taking them from a warm inside to a cold outside is a great way to check whether the glass is still airtight.
If they are not, there will probably be moisture condensing inside the objective lenses. That is a signal to send them in for a refurbishment.

Have to say, I never understood why the insides of the better glasses are not fitted with desiccant pods. It would cost very little and be a good backstop to the normal weather sealing.

Dessicants were used in optics during WWII. Those conditions are
worse than most binoculars will ever see in normal conditions.

The Nitrogen sealing of today is good, but not without fail. There is no
pressure involved but a simple exchange of normal air with N. This
design is only sealed with O-rings.

The chance of a leak from water coming in or fungus happening
does happen but it is rare. Some use a dry box for that purpose,
an enclosed box with heat helps dehydrate the optic.

I recall the poster from Indonesia who was a birding guide, and often
posted his great bird photos. He used a dry box, and used a Nikon 8x32
SE with great success, and those are not waterproof.
Someone will help out with his name.

I hope Bill C. will chime in with more on the subject.

Jerry
 
PERSONALLY.....

I'd just use the crap out of them. You paid $2500, so use them! ;)

Hello Chuck,

I agree but I would not abuse any binocular and especially one which cost me weeks of net earnings. Moving from a very cold environmt to a warm one should be done with caution: covered lenses and a slow change.

Decades, ago, I was walking in Downtown Minneapolis when the temperature was dipping to -16°C, -1°F, when I stepped into the Stavanger Bakery & Coffee Shop, on Nicolette Avenue, for a plate of herring, salad and coffee. When I entered the shop moisture from the kitchen hit my glasses, which promptly fogged. Then the fog turned to ice. I waited for the ice to melt before cleaning my specs fearing scratching the lenses.

I would certainly avoid ice on my Leica binoculars.

Happy bird watching,
Arthur Pinewood :scribe:,
Arthur
 
Those are interesting QR attachments on the strap. Beware the split rings, steel can snap like glass at the temperatures you are mentioning.
 
People are making a fuss over cold temps and [supposed] bino fragility. Not only have my alphas survived years of Canadian cold but so have some pretty modest models - Bushnell Custom porro, Bushnell Legend HD and Skyline porro - all without snapping metal, fogging or cracked glass.

Much ado about nothing, IMO.
 
I've used my Leica's as low as -30F... one reason I like Leica so much is the focus mechanism doesn't get sluggish in cold.

I wouldn't worry about it, though I'm not of the opinion storing $2500 in your car is a good idea. I'd take them in overnight to avoid theft, not cold. Your car insurance won't cover them.
 
People are making a fuss over cold temps and [supposed] bino fragility. Not only have my alphas survived years of Canadian cold but so have some pretty modest models - Bushnell Custom porro, Bushnell Legend HD and Skyline porro - all without snapping metal, fogging or cracked glass.

Much ado about nothing, IMO.


I had my old Dialyt 10x40BGA T* in the north of Finland near Tornio. It was minus 30 and these old Dialyts, which focused by moving the objective lenses had no problems at all not even fogging, even though they acted a bit like air pumps with the objectives moving in and out.

Lee
 
Leica’s Response Below = No Worries.

PROPS TO LEICA FOR AN OVERNIGHT WEEKEND RESPONSE.
 

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Leica cameras and Nikon FM2s have a reputation for use in the cold.
The Canadian Mounties I think use the FM2s.
Real cold, like Antarctica, Leica would winterise them.
The coldest temperature recorded there was minus 89C, but U.S. satellites have recorded colder places in Antarctica, maybe minus 92C.
I wonder what temperatures the Hassleblads left on the Moon have to endure.

I have used Russian binoculars at minus 30C and Minolta SRTs at minus 34C.
The Minolta plastic case and strap became completely brittle and would have snapped into fragments, but I put them back in the bus terminal where it was only minus 15C.
The Kodak film just crumbled despite repeatedly cutting new leaders. Konica film was fine.
The Russian binoculars are I think marked minus 45C to plus 40C. They are probably good for minus 50C. One reason why perhaps their mechanics are so loose. The cases and straps are leather.

An independent make Fisheye converter front element on my Minolta standard lens cracked in the boot (trunk) of my car left overnight at minus 30C. The car was winterised and worked fine. The Minolta lenses never had a problem.
My friends used Minolta SR1s and Canon FTbs at minus 40.

At minus 45C some tyres just crack, but I suppose there are special rubber types for real cold down to minus 65C perhaps.
I was surprised to see some Canadian temperatures down to minus 65C.
Diesel I think also can freeze.
 
Those are interesting QR attachments on the strap. Beware the split rings, steel can snap like glass at the temperatures you are mentioning.

You don't know much about cold. Steel is the best in all weather conditions.

A large part of the world operates at temps. below zero, for many
months every year.

Jerry
 
You don't know much about cold. Steel is the best in all weather conditions.

A large part of the world operates at temps. below zero, for many
months every year.

Jerry

Isn't that the truth... think about all those airliners operating daily in -30 to -60F...
 
I used to work in the stainless steel business and I remember that the cold temperature transition from ductile to brittle depended very much on the chemical composition of the steel and I'm pretty sure that some steels perform poorly at around freezing whereas some are fine much colder than this.

Lee
 
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