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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

New Bean Bag Design, suitable for super-tele's (1 Viewer)

OBXGuide

OBXGuide

Nature Photographer
I've just posted two new pages on my website describing my new "Butterfly Bean Bag" design and listing full instructions and diagrams for making one for yourself. Also on the page is my own invention to go along with it, the "Flying Saucer Ball Head" (NO, I'm not kidding!). If any of you make either of these and try them out, I'd love to hear what you think of my shared inventions by posts or PMs.

The web page is here- http://naturephotography.fredhurteau.com/bbagballhead.htm

and here are a couple of pix. Larger ones are on the website.
BeanbagOnDoor-1-TN.jpgballhead_topview-TN.jpg
 
Sorry, finally getting around to revisiting this post. I agree, Alan, the two bags look much alike, except yours looks more like leather than cloth. It is the design of the low flat top that I was trying to alter, and also avoid the expense of a panning plate. The fact that my design uses the bean filling more efficiently for height instead of just dead weight hanging over the door is what I like about it. I was really tired of slumping down trying to see in the viewfinder. The extra couple of inches makes a real comfort difference.
 
OBXGuide said:
Sorry, finally getting around to revisiting this post. I agree, Alan, the two bags look much alike, except yours looks more like leather than cloth. It is the design of the low flat top that I was trying to alter, and also avoid the expense of a panning plate. The fact that my design uses the bean filling more efficiently for height instead of just dead weight hanging over the door is what I like about it. I was really tired of slumping down trying to see in the viewfinder. The extra couple of inches makes a real comfort difference.
Click to expand...
Hi Fred,
Great idea!, you could actually cast the "Flying Saucer Ball Head" in fast cast epoxy resin (make a 2-part sillicone rubber mould off your wooden model) then just drill and fit your tripod screw/bolt.
You could then cast as many as you want and if you use some kind of filler ie Slate powder even well dried sand etc mixed into the resin they would be pretty cheap to produce.
Cheers
Brian
 
Hey, it sounds like you know something about the process. If not, then it shows you how much I know about it. If I thought there was much of a market for it I'd patent it and try to sell it, but it's not one of those "sexy" things that will likely suck much money from photographers' pockets. I would definitely consider letting someone else take on the production and marketing of the thing for a small percentage ;) . I don't suppose something like that would interest you, would it??? If the thing was hollowed out some on the top side, just leaving the convex surface on the bottom, it would make it lighter in the event it was made from a denser (and therefore potentially heaveir than wood) material. Just thinking aloud, I suppose.
 
OBXGuide said:
Hey, it sounds like you know something about the process. If not, then it shows you how much I know about it. If I thought there was much of a market for it I'd patent it and try to sell it, but it's not one of those "sexy" things that will likely suck much money from photographers' pockets. I would definitely consider letting someone else take on the production and marketing of the thing for a small percentage ;) . I don't suppose something like that would interest you, would it??? If the thing was hollowed out some on the top side, just leaving the convex surface on the bottom, it would make it lighter in the event it was made from a denser (and therefore potentially heaveir than wood) material. Just thinking aloud, I suppose.
Click to expand...
Hi Fred, I used to be a pro modelmaker/designer so have used many types of resins/rubber etc but had to retire due to health problems.However its very easy to make silicone rubber moulds and cast resin parts, try this website www.cfsnet.co.uk they sell all the gear and have a section which shows you how to make rubber moulds etc. The idea of recessing the top is a good one and would save resin to lower weight and costs just make sure it has a thicker centre piece with flat top for mounting the camera. Personally i think you could be onto a winner, another way to produce them would be to find a Tupperware bowl with rounded bottom of the correct diameter and then just part fill with the resin and then drill your mounting hole for the bolt (recess the bolt head, maybe use a stainless caphead bolt?) Hope this makes sense to you and if you want anymore info then PM me.
Cheers
Brian
Ps regarding resin fillers the microbubbles would make the finished casting very lightweight but may not be as strong as using Alluminium powder or Slate powders
 
Hello Fred, just got back from a week in the bush using your "ball" head on my bean bag (it's not leather by the way, but rather a very heavy nylon fabric). The head worked superbly well, especially with the weight of the Bigma and the Canon 40d. I imagine it would slip with a lighter lens/camera combo, or one where the centre of gravity is a bit off. Thanks for a great invention!

(will post some pics as soon as I've edited them).
 
Sounds great, Alan. I'm anxious to see your version. I've been considering perhaps making a plate to bolt to the top of mine so I can off-center the lens foot on my 500mm a couple of inches to put it a little more centered on the balance. I guess it depends on the various lenses and where the mounting ring is.
 
Fred, here is my version:


This sequence was taken from a hide (US: blind), using the ballhead. Almost all the pics in that gallery were taken using the ballhead (those that weren't were handheld).

I have tried it with a large Canon lens as well, but the centre of gravity is way off, so it can't rest on its own as with the Bigma.
 
Thanks for sharing the shots Alan. I see yours has a flat top. I would think that locks it on a bit better when screwed down. After some use my bolt head no longer grips into the wood like a carriage bolt the way it did at first. It wants to spin around some if I'm not careful to tighten it well. I think I need to put a recessed locking nut on the top. Still need to get around to making a plate to off-center the ball head a fit forward, since as you say, the larger lenses are off balance and front heavy. If I can get that solved I'll be a happy camper. Looks like yours certainly lets you pan easily enough with that sequence of take-off shots. That's the whole point really, plus adding a little height. Would you mind if I added your photo of your version of the ballhead to my web page to show how you are using the idea? Thanks again for sharing. It's great to know others have tried the idea and are getting results.
 
OBXGuide said:
Looks like yours certainly lets you pan easily enough with that sequence of take-off shots. That's the whole point really, plus adding a little height.
Click to expand...
The adding a little height is more than useful when using the Bigma - you can zoom without having to lift the lens off the bean bag (ie, you keep your subject in the frame)

OBXGuide said:
Would you mind if I added your photo of your version of the ballhead to my web page to show how you are using the idea? Thanks again for sharing. It's great to know others have tried the idea and are getting results.
Click to expand...
You're welcome - here is the link to the gallery it's in if you want a larger image:
http://bigal-sa.smugmug.com/Other/Help/569477_D46mP#764295092_wxEVS
 
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