Inexpensive DSLR (1 Viewer)

I have been tinkering with digiscoping with a simple point and shoot digital camera for some years. I have been able to obtain some decent results at times with various scopes but am now considering "upgrading" to a DSLR. I do have a standard SLR camera with several lenses. I am assuming I could use those same lenses on a DSLR body? That leads me to the question I have for you folks. What is the least expensive DSLR body on the market and where can I get the best price for it?

In addition, what the least expensive "acceptable" DSLR body out there? I am making a differentiation here in that there may be a "least expensive" and a "least expensive decent" DSLR body.

Thanks ahead of time for the responses.

FrankD said:

I have been tinkering with digiscoping with a simple point and shoot digital camera for some years. I have been able to obtain some decent results at times with various scopes but am now considering "upgrading" to a DSLR. I do have a standard SLR camera with several lenses. I am assuming I could use those same lenses on a DSLR body? That leads me to the question I have for you folks. What is the least expensive DSLR body on the market and where can I get the best price for it?

In addition, what the least expensive "acceptable" DSLR body out there? I am making a differentiation here in that there may be a "least expensive" and a "least expensive decent" DSLR body.

Thanks ahead of time for the responses.

Click to expand...

This site is one of the best site I know for serious reviews:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM

(Just click in the manufacturer and you will get a lits of their on-production cameras and reviews. Watch out that the listed price there is not exactly the real price on stores... usually you can find things cheaper)

About the place to buy. I buy things on internet exclusively. And the B&H site was always great.

Also, not exactly you will be able to use your older lenses. Most likely not(as usually the IS is in the lenses). Depends on the mount.

About a good entry level DSLR... both Canon, Nikon and Pentax all have entry DLSR for about $500-600. I guess it is more a matter of taste.

One mechanical important thing to notice is that Canon-Nikon use the IS on the lenses.... while the pentax use it on the body. I don´t know if this difference will have a big effect on digiscoping... I am sure someone more experienced out there will be able to help.

IvanCavallazzi said:

This site is one of the best site I know for serious reviews:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM

(Just click in the manufacturer and you will get a lits of their on-production cameras and reviews. Watch out that the listed price there is not exactly the real price on stores... usually you can find things cheaper)

About the place to buy. I buy things on internet exclusively. And the B&H site was always great.

Also, not exactly you will be able to use your older lenses. Most likely not(as usually the IS is in the lenses). Depends on the mount.

About a good entry level DSLR... both Canon, Nikon and Pentax all have entry DLSR for about $500-600. I guess it is more a matter of taste.

One mechanical important thing to notice is that Canon-Nikon use the IS on the lenses.... while the pentax use it on the body. I don´t know if this difference will have a big effect on digiscoping... I am sure someone more experienced out there will be able to help.

Click to expand...

Ivan,

I've been thinking of this too. My friend just bought his Olympus to Nikon adapter and will try it this week on my Fieldscope and see the results

I use a Canon EOS 600D attached to a Nikon ED78 fieldscope. See the discussion on this link http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?p=2168774#post2168774. My post is #10.

horukuru said:

Ivan,

I've been thinking of this too. My friend just bought his Olympus to Nikon adapter and will try it this week on my Fieldscope and see the results

Click to expand...

That is great.

Technically the in-body IS would make it easier to take fast shots, long range shots, windy environment, etc.

I admit I have a little crush on the Pentax products(or maybe I am just going crazy as now I kind of falling in love with optic brands), anyway, it would be great if the in-body IS show better result there. The Pentax K-r is very cheap and seems to be an excellent camera.

I know also that sony have that a580 model, in-boby IS that have an incredible noise suppression too.

Good afternoon Frank;

So you want “A lower cost Upgrade from a P&S to a DSLR”. Well, first things first.

First of all, be prepared to lose shutter speed by a factor of 8 for a full size SLR at a given ISO because you are dealing with a larger image sensor. Will that larger sensor give you better picture quality? You can check out given images on IR Comparometer side by side. You may be surprised if you check out a LX3 side by side to a given SLR. Also be prepared for an increase in camera weight from perhaps 180 grams to a pound or over. You also will probably have to give up auto-focus in going to a SLR.

Many people consider a 50mm lens too long for the best digiscoping. A typical scope and eyepiece will produce a small enough light cone to cause the camera to operate at about f/16 or f/20. That is regardless of where you have the manual setting. So if the lens was designed to be sharpest at about f/2 or f/2.8, and your using it at f/20, how sharp will the image be?

To improve this situation use a lens in the 20mm range, which means you are better off with a 4/3rds camera. This will only penalize you by a factor of 4 in speed. The Lumix G1 has staked out a great reputation for itself as a digiscoping camera. The eyepiece view finder is excellent. The fine and sharp Canon 28mm, f/2.8 FD lens is available on-line for about $35 USD. I just got a new G1 on the Bay for $230. You cannot beat those costs.

I see image stabilization mentioned in the text. No, you cannot use stabilization with digiscoping. The camera has to know what magnification power is being used in order to correct the image shift according to movement. One of my cameras has an input for that, but only to 1000mm and is only relevant if the camera is hand held.
Gene

Agreed on the G1 Smithill, does that canon lense fit directly onto the G1 or is an adapter needed?

The 1975 era FD lens does require a FD to a micro 4/3rds adapter, written as FD-m4/3. I suggest the Fotodiox brand, quality and low cost. Do get the later version of the FD, not the earlier breech lock mount with the broad chrome ring around the base. Those earlier models will perhaps have a sticky focus action and are heavier and larger.

In todays dollars this lens would cost $565 USD. They are cheap now because there is no other use for them except for the 4/3rds cameras. This lens is the fore-runner of the Canon “L” series.
Gene

Guys,

I want to say thank you for the suggestions so far. Based on some of the replies I am thinking that going the DSLR route might not be the right choice. I enjoy the simplicity of the point and shoot style. With that thought in mind, do you have any suggestions on a decent point and shoot model that may be an upgrade from the Casio Exilim EX-Z1000 that I am currently using?

I can get some decent shots under certain conditions but I think there is too much noise in the image more often than not.

Thanks.