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k10D Bigma settings

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Old Wednesday 14th May 2008, 16:55   #26
geordie graham
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Originally Posted by Spot Focus View Post
Hi graham here's a link to the free versionof Silkypix which is limited in it's ability but gives you a feel for what it can do. The full paid version is in my opinion is very affordable for what it offers
http://www.isl.co.jp/SILKYPIX/english/download/
Cheers Nick will give it a go.

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Old Tuesday 31st March 2009, 19:24   #27
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Hi Graham,
I been using my Sigma 50-500 with a K10D for nearly a year now and I was not totally satisfied with the results, sharpness mainly. So just tested front and back focus and adjusted it, seems to have made a difference. Still more testing to do.
Also started using Photoshop Lightroom 2 mush easer than Elements 5 or CS2 etc, more geared to wards photography.
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Old Wednesday 1st April 2009, 06:24   #28
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Originally Posted by geordie graham View Post
Hi Brian.
Have posted a couple of photo`s below that were taken last week using a beanbag on top of the car.Maybe I am being a bit picky but I expected them to be a bit sharper/more colour.It may be that my PC monitor is not up to scratch( only cost 150 ) as they look better on the LCD monitor.Once put through Elements 5 they were better, I just think coming out of a 700 lens the originals should look better.Looking at them again perhaps instead of using Centre focus I should have used Select.

Graham

Attachment 133339 Attachment 133340
My advice - get closer and use a tripod.

Remember, once you get beyond about 60 feet air turbulence is going to start compromising quality no matter what else you do.

Something like this:
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Last edited by Ultra Lite : Wednesday 1st April 2009 at 06:37.
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Old Wednesday 1st April 2009, 07:19   #29
Spot Focus
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Originally Posted by tomkeet View Post
Hi Graham,
I been using my Sigma 50-500 with a K10D for nearly a year now and I was not totally satisfied with the results, sharpness mainly. So just tested front and back focus and adjusted it, seems to have made a difference. Still more testing to do.
Also started using Photoshop Lightroom 2 mush easer than Elements 5 or CS2 etc, more geared to wards photography.
Tom
Hi Tom please tell me more about your adjustments
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Old Wednesday 1st April 2009, 13:04   #30
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Hi Nick,
Have a look at the two links below, may explain it better than I can.
As I mentioned still have more testing to do but it has improved sharpness.
Any questions let me know.

http://photographyrulez.blogspot.com...ware-yeah.html
http://photographyrulez.blogspot.com...ware-yeah.html
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Old Friday 3rd April 2009, 21:30   #31
mikfoz
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I've been using a Bigma and a K10 for a month or so now and I have to agree with Ultra Lite. You can use a Bigma to take some brilliant shots if you use the anti-shake on the K10 and judiciously using a tripod will give great results as well. Remember to switch off the anti-shake if it's on a tripod or bean bag, though.

I tend to use pattern metering unless the lighting is dreadfully contrasty, in which case I go for spot metering on the subject, lock and recompose if necessary. For moving subjects you need to be on constant spot autofocus. For stationary subjects you need to be on spot single autofocus and then lock and realign. You simply can't use pattern autofocus on a long telephoto as it has no depth of field and ends up hunting in any sort of clutter. The only exception would be if you're tracking a flying bird with no foreground clutter or near background - i.e. a sky shot or over water. The tiniest bit of foliage will irritate it to death and send it all over the place. This is true for all long tele lenses on any camera. True, you'll end up hunting if you pan through foliage on spot, but again this is true for all other methods.

Check out my gallery for plenty of perfectly acceptably sharp shots using this method.
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