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New Binocular Resolution Test Results (1 Viewer)

Atomic Chicken

Registered with the D.O.E.
Greetings!

It's been quite a while since I started my binocular resolution testing project... I've been experimenting, trying new things, refining the process, and generally having WAY too much fun considering the nature of this endeavor! ;)

OK... on to the details.

First off, a few changes in the methodology from my original post on this topic. I've improved the binocular resolution test chart I've been using, which now consists of a precision laser photoplotted film emulsion sheet of 9" X 12" size. The sheet is broken into two sections, the upper section being for horizontal resolution testing (consisting of vertical parallel lines) and the lower section being used for vertical resolution testing (horizontal parallel lines). Each section is divided into 20 test squares of 1" x 3/4" size. Each of the two 20-square section consists of 5 squares across by 4 squares down. Each square contains evenly spaced lines and spaces of the width in question, with the widths starting at 0.001" in the top-left square and increasing to 0.020" width and spacing in the lower-right square. The chart is placed on a specially machined clipboard holder attached to a tripod, EXACTLY 17.19 feet away from the binocular objective lens. At that distance, every 0.001" is exactly one arcsecond - making conversion unnecessary. I just see what the smallest numbered square that is resolvable into individual lines, and I have instant arcsecond resolution equivalent.

Lighting is kept uniform, and each new pair of binoculars measured is clamped into a specially machined binocular holding strap-clamp mounted to a tripod. When viewing through the binoculars, no part of my face ever touches the binoculars in order to avoid vibration inducing errors. Each pair of binoculars, once clamped, gets re-distanced to the target by hanging a pendulum from the front of the objective lens of the binocular to the floor... where the tripod is moved backward or forward in order for the pendulum tip to align with a previously measured line drawn on the floor. This keeps all test results perfectly equal - with longer length binoculars getting no added advantage due to their objective lenses being closer to the target.

I have no reason to be biased in this testing - I already own all of the binoculars I tested along with several other pairs that were not tested... the testing was kept completely scientific, unbiased, and honest for all optics being examined. I have no reason to be more or less loyal to any particular brand, as I don't own stock in any of the companies and I really do believe that the major brands are all producing superior products - each in their own unique and distinctive way.

OK... Enough about the methodology - here are the results. I did not measure every pair of binoculars I own - as 3 pairs are on loan to friends and one pair is currently missing (not stolen, I hope...). I also did not bother testing most of my "cheap-o" low-end binoculars, choosing only a few of these "instruments" for baseline comparison purposes. I also tested 2 monocular instruments and a spotting scope, although the spotting scope would not focus at such a close distance so the target was placed twice as far away and resulting readings were cut in half to compensate.

All of the below test results are given as a pair of standardized arcsecond resolutions, the first number is the horizontal resolution and the second number is the vertical resolution. The lower the number, the better the resolution performance:


Monocular and Spotting Scope Test Results
================================

Nikon Monarch 800 Laser Rangefinder (6x) H 13 Asec V 13 Asec
GuardForce 6x-12x Monocular (At 6x) H 11 Asec V 10 Asec
GuardForce 6x-12x Monocular (At 12x) H 8 Asec V 7 Asec
Nikon Spotter XL 16x-47x Scope (At 16x) H 4 Asec V 4 Asec
Nikon Spotter XL 16x-47x Scope (At 47x) H 2 Asec V 2 Asec


Binocular Test Results
================

Pentax SP 10x50 H 5 ASec V 5 Asec
Minox BD 8x32 H 6 Asec V 7 Asec
Nikon HG 8x32 H 6 Asec V 6 Asec
Nikon HG 10x25 H 5 Asec V 4 Asec
B&L Discoverer Roof 7x42 H 8 Asec V 8 Asec
B&L Discoverer Roof 10x42 H 5 Asec V 6 Asec
Brunton Echo 8x32 H 7 Asec V 7 Asec
Leica Trinovid 7x42 H 7 Asec V 7 Asec
Zeiss Victory 8x20 H 8 Asec V 7 Asec
Tasco 8x21 (#165RB) H 9 Asec V 11 Asec
Rugged Exposure 10x25 WP H 10 Asec V 10 Asec
Rugged Exposure 10x42 WP H 6 Asec V 6 Asec
Barska 16x32 H 5 Asec V 6 Asec


The above optics are not listed in any particular order, the list started out being the order in which I tested them then I moved a few around to group optics from the same company together.


OK... A few observations. First off, if resolution is the only factor you are really interested in for binoculars, then 10x binoculars are what you should be buying - with the Nikon HG 10x25 clearly leading the pack for this round of testing. I've often marveled at the incredible edge-to-edge sharpness of the 10x25 HG's, but I've never realized until today how much they give the "big guns" a run for their money in terms of overall sharpness. Sure... they do not perform as well in low light conditions, but during daylight hours they REALLY can't be beat. In the past, I've very carefully compared the Nikon HG 10x25's to the relatively new Leica Ultravid 10x25's, and I'll swear upon all that is holy that the two cannot be distinguished optically by any test that I can devise. If resolution is your holy grail, then either of these two fine binoculars will blow you away... I guarantee it.

OK... more observations. The Barska 16x32 results CLEARLY show that you are FAR better off buying a quality pair of 10x binoculars rather than a cheap pair of 16x binoculars - ESPECIALLY in light of the fact that I couldn't hold the damned things still enough to save my LIFE when trying to examine the test chart freehand off the tripod. Dim little things too... hardly a thing comes to mind that would make me want to recommend them!

The Rugged Exposure (Rebranded "Barska") 10x42 waterproof roof prisms continue to show their incredible value considering their $70 price tag - easily holding their own when compared to pricier 10x options. Too bad they are built with all the quality of a particle board bookshelf and glare like a lighthouse when viewing birds near the sun... but at $70 you shouldn't be expecting perfection anyway - the quality of the optics is already WAY underpriced as is!

I was impressed by the overall VIEW of the test chart only once during all this testing, a moment where it looked like someone had suddenly switched on the lights and everything just seemed to "glow" with brilliant razor perfection and clarity. Yes... I'm speaking of the Leica Trinovid 7x42 of course... what else could I have possibly been talking about? ;)

The Minox BD 8x32 and Brunton Echo 8x32 are both excellent performers considering their price tags... while the Zeiss Victory 8x20 were somewhat disappointing considering their fairly HIGH price tag. The Tasco 8x21 and Rugged Exposure (Barska) 10x25 were both thrown in for laughs... actually more like rivers of tears considering the DISMAL and PAINFUL viewing experience these dim fog-tubes provide.

Both B&L Discoverer roof prism models did quite well considering their price. The Nikon HG 8x32 did ALMOST as well as the Pentax SP 10x50 in terms of resolution - another surprise! The Nikon HG 8x32's are the best 8x binoculars I tested in terms of resolution... with a clean, bright image to match.

I cannot stress this enough: Resolution is absolutely NOT the only important factor to be considered when selecting a pair of binoculars, if it were then I would be using 10x binoculars all the time and wouldn't have my well known bias toward 7x optics. Other factors to consider include brightness, color rendition, lateral chromatic abberations, field of view, depth of field, geometric distortions, edge sharpness, ruggedness, ergonomics, and weight. For me, the Nikon HG 8x32, HG 10x25, and Leica Trinovid 7x42 just hit all the right "sweet spots" for my own preferences.

All-in-all, quite a few surprises uncovered in this evening's testing... I hope you enjoyed reading about it as much as I enjoyed doing the actual tests!

More to come in the future....

Best wishes,
Bawko
 
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Thanks for sharing your very informative results with us Bawko. I to am a Nikon convert 8 x 42HGL for me and 8 x 32HG for my wife. In reasonable to good light they are impossible to tell apart.

Cheers and good birding

Stewart

:hi:
 
Atomic Chicken said:
Greetings!

It's been quite a while since I started my binocular resolution testing project... I've been experimenting, trying new things, refining the process, and generally having WAY too much fun considering the nature of this endeavor! ;)

OK... on to the details.

First off, a few changes in the methodology from my original post on this topic. I've improved the binocular resolution test chart I've been using, which now consists of a precision laser photoplotted film emulsion sheet of 9" X 12" size. The sheet is broken into two sections, the upper section being for horizontal resolution testing (consisting of vertical parallel lines) and the lower section being used for vertical resolution testing (horizontal parallel lines). Each section is divided into 20 test squares of 1" x 3/4" size. Each of the two 20-square section consists of 5 squares across by 4 squares down. Each square contains evenly spaced lines and spaces of the width in question, with the widths starting at 0.001" in the top-left square and increasing to 0.020" width and spacing in the lower-right square. The chart is placed on a specially machined clipboard holder attached to a tripod, EXACTLY 17.19 feet away from the binocular objective lens. At that distance, every 0.001" is exactly one arcsecond - making conversion unnecessary. I just see what the smallest numbered square that is resolvable into individual lines, and I have instant arcsecond resolution equivalent.

Lighting is kept uniform, and each new pair of binoculars measured is clamped into a specially machined binocular holding strap-clamp mounted to a tripod. When viewing through the binoculars, no part of my face ever touches the binoculars in order to avoid vibration inducing errors. Each pair of binoculars, once clamped, gets re-distanced to the target by hanging a pendulum from the front of the objective lens of the binocular to the floor... where the tripod is moved backward or forward in order for the pendulum tip to align with a previously measured line drawn on the floor. This keeps all test results perfectly equal - with longer length binoculars getting no added advantage due to their objective lenses being closer to the target.

I have no reason to be biased in this testing - I already own all of the binoculars I tested along with several other pairs that were not tested... the testing was kept completely scientific, unbiased, and honest for all optics being examined. I have no reason to be more or less loyal to any particular brand, as I don't own stock in any of the companies and I really do believe that the major brands are all producing superior products - each in their own unique and distinctive way.

OK... Enough about the methodology - here are the results. I did not measure every pair of binoculars I own - as 3 pairs are on loan to friends and one pair is currently missing (not stolen, I hope...). I also did not bother testing most of my "cheap-o" low-end binoculars, choosing only a few of these "instruments" for baseline comparison purposes. I also tested 2 monocular instruments and a spotting scope, although the spotting scope would not focus at such a close distance so the target was placed twice as far away and resulting readings were cut in half to compensate.

All of the below test results are given as a pair of standardized arcsecond resolutions, the first number is the horizontal resolution and the second number is the vertical resolution. The lower the number, the better the resolution performance:


Monocular and Spotting Scope Test Results
================================

Nikon Monarch 800 Laser Rangefinder (6x) H 13 Asec V 13 Asec
GuardForce 6x-12x Monocular (At 6x) H 11 Asec V 10 Asec
GuardForce 6x-12x Monocular (At 12x) H 8 Asec V 7 Asec
Nikon Spotter XL 16x-47x Scope (At 16x) H 4 Asec V 4 Asec
Nikon Spotter XL 16x-47x Scope (At 47x) H 2 Asec V 2 Asec


Binocular Test Results
================

Pentax SP 10x50 H 5 ASec V 5 Asec
Minox BD 8x32 H 6 Asec V 7 Asec
Nikon HG 8x32 H 6 Asec V 6 Asec
Nikon HG 10x25 H 5 Asec V 4 Asec
B&L Discoverer Roof 7x42 H 8 Asec V 8 Asec
B&L Discoverer Roof 10x42 H 5 Asec V 6 Asec
Brunton Echo 8x32 H 7 Asec V 7 Asec
Leica Trinovid 7x42 H 7 Asec V 7 Asec
Zeiss Victory 8x20 H 8 Asec V 7 Asec
Tasco 8x21 (#165RB) H 9 Asec V 11 Asec
Rugged Exposure 10x25 WP H 10 Asec V 10 Asec
Rugged Exposure 10x42 WP H 6 Asec V 6 Asec
Barska 16x32 H 5 Asec V 6 Asec


The above optics are not listed in any particular order, the list started out being the order in which I tested them then I moved a few around to group optics from the same company together.


OK... A few observations. First off, if resolution is the only factor you are really interested in for binoculars, then 10x binoculars are what you should be buying - with the Nikon HG 10x25 clearly leading the pack for this round of testing. I've often marveled at the incredible edge-to-edge sharpness of the 10x25 HG's, but I've never realized until today how much they give the "big guns" a run for their money in terms of overall sharpness. Sure... they do not perform as well in low light conditions, but during daylight hours they REALLY can't be beat. In the past, I've very carefully compared the Nikon HG 10x25's to the relatively new Leica Ultravid 10x25's, and I'll swear upon all that is holy that the two cannot be distinguished optically by any test that I can devise. If resolution is your holy grail, then either of these two fine binoculars will blow you away... I guarantee it.

OK... more observations. The Barska 16x32 results CLEARLY show that you are FAR better off buying a quality pair of 10x binoculars rather than a cheap pair of 16x binoculars - ESPECIALLY in light of the fact that I couldn't hold the damned things still enough to save my LIFE when trying to examine the test chart freehand off the tripod. Dim little things too... hardly a thing comes to mind that would make me want to recommend them!

The Rugged Exposure (Rebranded "Barska") 10x42 waterproof roof prisms continue to show their incredible value considering their $70 price tag - easily holding their own when compared to pricier 10x options. Too bad they are built with all the quality of a particle board bookshelf and glare like a lighthouse when viewing birds near the sun... but at $70 you shouldn't be expecting perfection anyway - the quality of the optics is already WAY underpriced as is!

I was impressed by the overall VIEW of the test chart only once during all this testing, a moment where it looked like someone had suddenly switched on the lights and everything just seemed to "glow" with brilliant razor perfection and clarity. Yes... I'm speaking of the Leica Trinovid 7x42 of course... what else could I have possibly been talking about? ;)

The Minox BD 8x32 and Brunton Echo 8x32 are both excellent performers considering their price tags... while the Zeiss Victory 8x20 were somewhat disappointing considering their fairly HIGH price tag. The Tasco 8x21 and Rugged Exposure (Barska) 10x25 were both thrown in for laughs... actually more like rivers of tears considering the DISMAL and PAINFUL viewing experience these dim fog-tubes provide.

Both B&L Discoverer roof prism models did quite well considering their price. The Nikon HG 8x32 did ALMOST as well as the Pentax SP 10x50 in terms of resolution - another surprise! The Nikon HG 8x32's are the best 8x binoculars I tested in terms of resolution... with a clean, bright image to match.

I cannot stress this enough: Resolution is absolutely NOT the only important factor to be considered when selecting a pair of binoculars, if it were then I would be using 10x binoculars all the time and wouldn't have my well known bias toward 7x optics. Other factors to consider include brightness, color rendition, lateral chromatic abberations, field of view, depth of field, geometric distortions, edge sharpness, ruggedness, ergonomics, and weight. For me, the Nikon HG 8x32, HG 10x25, and Leica Trinovid 7x42 just hit all the right "sweet spots" for my own preferences.

All-in-all, quite a few surprises uncovered in this evening's testing... I hope you enjoyed reading about it as much as I enjoyed doing the actual tests!

More to come in the future....

Best wishes,
Bawko

Wow! Great test Bawko. When will you publish the target?

I may be gilding the lilly here, but I cant help but wonder how subjective opinions would match up with the resolution test. But that's another project!
 
Humboldt Jim said:
Wow! Great test Bawko. When will you publish the target?

I may be gilding the lilly here, but I cant help but wonder how subjective opinions would match up with the resolution test. But that's another project!

You need to test some "Top Guns" though. How about a Zeiss FL 10x42 and a Swarovski EL 10x42 and maybe a Nikon SE 10x42.

Dennis
 
Atomic Chicken said:
...10x25 HG's, but I've never realized until today how much they give the "big guns" a run for their money in terms of overall sharpness. Sure... they do not perform as well in low light conditions, but during daylight hours they REALLY can't be beat.
But isn't this just what it should be? The eye iris is typically 2-3mm in daylight (10x25 -> 2.5mm exit pupil), which means that a larger objective may be actually wasted in these conditions. Can you control the lighting in your test-space? I am sure you would see more differences in lower light.

Anyway, many thanks for sharing the results - and looking forward to your upcoming experiments.

Ilkka


ps. ...and booster-amplified data would be nice to see too.
Imagine how much fun you can still have fulfilling all our test-suggestions ;)
 
Atomic Chicken said:
All-in-all, quite a few surprises uncovered in this evening's testing... I hope you enjoyed reading about it as much as I enjoyed doing the actual tests!
If you are looking for even more surprises, manage to test several specimens of the same model. ;) ;) ;)

Jean-Charles
 
Thanks, Bawko, for the interesting post. I hope I can be forgiven if I take issue with your methods as a way of measuring the actual resolution of binoculars. I've performed these same kinds of measurements, both with and without boosted magnification. Every decent quality binocular I have tested (and even some pretty bad ones) has had actual resolution much too high to be seen without boosted magnification. What I see looking directly at a resolution chart through binoculars is simply my eyesight acuity (at a given moment) divided by the binocular's magnification. I am certain that using your chart and boosting the magnification of each binocular to 40X-60X would show the actual resolution of all but the cheapies to be better than 3" and some (like the 7x42 Leica) probably better than 2". I think the differences in resolution you are finding without boosted magnification result either from very serious optical defects in some of the binoculars or more likely are the natural variations that occur when straining to see tiny details at the limit of visual acuity. For reference, 20/20 vision is supposed to correspond to 60" of resolution and the best human eyesight is about twice that good. Looking at your results I think your acuity probably falls between 45" and 50" on your chart, which is about the same as mine, so you could expect to see around 7" in almost any 7X binocular, 6" in an 8X, 5" in a 10X, etc.

Putting aside acuity, another problem with this method is that it can only allow you to measure that part of the binocular's exit pupil equal to or smaller than the eye's entrance pupil. If your eye is open to 4mm when using your test set up, then you are looking through only the central 28mm of your 7x42 Leica Trinovid's objective, so the full resolution of the objective could not be seen even if your acuity allowed it. Under the same lighting conditions small binoculars with 2.5mm exit pupils effectively shut down your eye to 2.5mm which reduces the aberrations of the eye itself. That might partially explain why your 10x25's look so good in the tests. BTW, I've found that a difference in vertical and horizontal resolution usually indicates misaligned optics or astigmatism.

Boosting magnification would not be very difficult in your test set up. You can simply use one barrel of one of your small binoculars behind the eyepiece of the one being tested. You could also easily make an artificial star (very tiny holes in aluminum foil in front of a light bulb) which would be good enough to identify defects in the binoculars you are testing. Once again, thanks for the interesting post. I hope you don't mind the unsolicited advice and suggestions.

Henry
 
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Henry,

I agree with all that you've said, but would present my understanding from a slightly different perspective. Even though Bawko refers to the resolution of the binoculars, in your (our) framework he really means the aided acuity obtained by using the binoculars. In other words, it's the combined effect of the optics plus the eye he's considering, and that is very reasonable IMO. (It's the same approach Steve Ingraham uses with his NEED measure, incidentally.) In effect, if a binocular does all we hope it will do, unaided acuity should be boosted by the magnification and not compromised by the glass that stands between the observer and what is observed. To the extent the instrument does not accomplish this, it falls short of the mark and is therefore inferior to that extent.

With this way of looking at it, I have attached a chart that shows Bawko's binoculars sorted by their ability to aid acuity. His measurements are simply multiplied by the binoculars' power, and the H and V results averaged. The AVG column, therefore, is an estimate of his aided acuity with each instrument.

When the results are sorted, I think the ordering makes sense for these binoculars. I suspect that the results for the scopes may have been influenced by the chart's limits of resolution.

Having said this, I would certainly reinforce your point that the control of lighting and pupil diameter are essential for this method to work. If they were, however, I'm at a loss to explain why the Nikon pocket binoculars came out first, but then I've got a 10x25 SLC that often puts larger binocs to shame. ;) Seriously, note that the V arcsec measurement made the critical difference, and this may have been simply due to moment to moment variations in Bawko's acuity. Again, we have no record of measurement variance, which in my opinion is a potential "gotcha" for any method.

Regards,
-elkcub
 

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Greetings!

Thanks to everyone for your kind replies to my original thread. I have a few replies to the responses so far, hopefully this will clear up a few things.

First off, this series of tests was done under VERY carefully controlled viewing and lighting conditions, with a pair of 75 watt light bulbs placed to the two sides of the test chart and complete shielded in the direction of the binoculars in order to avoid flaring conditions. Also, the area the test tripod was located was kept fairly dark, in order to increase pupil diameter and avoid artificial "field stop" eye conditions.

Second... and this is very important... something I forgot to mention in the original post. When determining the smallest square of parallel lines that could be resolved, the binoculars were re-aimed so that the square in question, then the next smaller square, etc. were placed in the exact center of the field of view. This was repeated until it was impossible to distinguish individual lines, at which point the next higher square was taken as the resolution limit. This was done in order to avoid "edge effects" from skewing the results... the resulting figures all reflect the central resolution capabilities of the binoculars in question.

Finally, as to the several postings related to the H vs. V results and the contention that it is somehow my visual accuity at that particular moment that was skewing the results toward an unbalanced H vs. V resolution, I have this to say. The H and V resolutions were determined VERY carefully, sometimes taking over 1 minute on each of the two measurements to make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the two readings were accurate. Some binoculars have equal resolutions in both directions, while others are DEFINITELY asymetrical in horizontal vs. vertical resolution. I attribute this to one of two possible causes: (1) imperfect optical alignment between the two axis, or (2) prism imperfections during image correction. The one thing I am absolutely CERTAIN of with regard to these measurements is that they are NOT a result of my eyesight (which is as close to perfect as I believe is possible for a human, I have never required glasses and have always been able to see distant objects better than anyone I was with at the time). I do not have astigmatism of any sort, and probably spend about 1/4 of my waking hours looking through optics of some kind - being a birdwatcher, astronomer, and scoped precision rifle shooter. I believe that the results given are accurate reflections of the optics being evaluated, at least for the particular specimens that I examined.

Finally, I would like to say that Elkcub is correct in stating that my intention with regards to these tests is to determine the "aided acuity" or in my own terms "real-world assisted performance" of the binoculars in question - I have no interest in using boosters, doublers, or other optical assistance that will NOT be used in the field when actually watching birds with the binoculars in question. I am doing this series of experiements with the SOLE purpose of comparing binoculars performance under actual viewing conditions - I am not interested in the ultimate optical performance of the test specimens but rather how well the instruments perform when used normally (with nothing between the eyepiece and the eye).

Thanks to everyone for the great feedback... I look forward to further input and future tests!

Best wishes,
Bawko
 
Bawko and elk,

I don't have much time for a reply as I am about to leave for a week's vacation with no computer. Bawko, your eyesight actually looks to be quite good from your results, better than 20/20, but you would need to have better than human eyesight to see detail as small as 14", which is the probable 2" actual resolution of your Leica 7X42 multiplied by its magnification. The 7" you reported for that binocular multiplied by 7x is 49" which is very good eyesight acuity but almost certainly far below the actual resolution of the binocular. The astigmatism I was refering to would be in the binoculars, not your eyes. If the axis of the astigmatism happens to be aligned or nearly aligned vertically it will cause a loss of resolution in the horizontal bars but have much less effect on the vertical bars. A star test would indicate if this is the cause.

I suppose I think "resolution" is a bit of a red herring in binoculars. It's certainly true that some binoculars look "sharper" than others, but the magnification is so low that any good quality binocular is not really being pushed to its resolution limit when you simply look through it. There may be problems of many sorts in the image, but in my experience it takes a very bad or very defective binocular for its actual resolution to be worse than eyesight acuity. I may be wrong but I think if these experiments are done repeatedly the averaged result with the good binoculars will wind up being the experimenter's eyesight acuity divided by the binocular's magnification. In other words I think it is essentially an eye test.

Henry
 
henry link said:
Bawko and elk,

I don't have much time for a reply as I am about to leave for a week's vacation with no computer. Bawko, your eyesight actually looks to be quite good from your results, better than 20/20, but you would need to have better than human eyesight to see detail as small as 14", which is the probable 2" actual resolution of your Leica 7X42 multiplied by its magnification. The 7" you reported for that binocular multiplied by 7x is 49" which is very good eyesight acuity but almost certainly far below the actual resolution of the binocular. The astigmatism I was refering to would be in the binoculars, not your eyes. If the axis of the astigmatism happens to be aligned or nearly aligned vertically it will cause a loss of resolution in the horizontal bars but have much less effect on the vertical bars. A star test would indicate if this is the cause.

I suppose I think "resolution" is a bit of a red herring in binoculars. It's certainly true that some binoculars look "sharper" than others, but the magnification is so low that any good quality binocular is not really being pushed to its resolution limit when you simply look through it. There may be problems of many sorts in the image, but in my experience it takes a very bad or very defective binocular for its actual resolution to be worse than eyesight acuity. I may be wrong but I think if these experiments are done repeatedly the averaged result with the good binoculars will wind up being the experimenter's eyesight acuity divided by the binocular's magnification. In other words I think it is essentially an eye test.

Henry

Henry,

I'll rush off a response (and probably pay a price for not thinking it through). Are you suggesting that the ordered results of aided acuity derived from Bawko's measurements are not attributable to the binoculars but rather to his eyesight? This is a puzzlement.

-elk
 
If that's true, none of the opinions by anyone would ultimately matter, nor that of any subjective review of any particularly well-designed binocular.

What I think is necessary is a definition of terms. Obviously some people have different ideas of what one word or term may mean alongside someone else's.

resolution (n) The fineness of detail that can be distinguished in an image

acuity (n) Sharpness, clearness, and distinctness of perception or vision

Obviously the commonly accepted definitions of the word has no solid meaning here on this forum with arguments based on semantical insanity. If in fact they do, obviously these are not the same. Sharpness, clearness and distinctness can be had at low or high resolution. Just as in an arguement spawned by Wehr on another thread, he's confusing the definition of the two as well.

Example: My Zeiss 10x40b Classics; They are extremely sharp, clear, crisp and distinct through their field of view, although, compared to the Ultravid 10x42 at long ranges, do not resolve as fine a detail as the Ultravids do. WITHOUT the aide of extra magnification, which shouldn't be needed to determine if there is a loss in resolution when it is visually apparent. Where, why or how this occurs does not change the fact that, ultimately, there IS less visible resolution and subjecting the optics to tests if the molecular alignment of the optical glass is/isn't in alignment with Pluto on a rainy day does not for one minute change the fact that one pair of binoculars may well indeed visulally resolve better than another, regardless of whomever may be viewing.

In case I have it completely wrong, I am misunderstanding the English language (hardly) and am just not clued in to some grand elitist conspiracy to re-write the dictionary based on their optical expertise, then please school me. If neither is the case, then there should be some solid, agreeable definition of terms so that nit-picking can be done on actual comments instead of peoples' use of specific words..
 
xenophobe said:
If that's true, none of the opinions by anyone would ultimately matter, nor that of any subjective review of any particularly well-designed binocular.

What I think is necessary is a definition of terms. Obviously some people have different ideas of what one word or term may mean alongside someone else's.

resolution (n) The fineness of detail that can be distinguished in an image

acuity (n) Sharpness, clearness, and distinctness of perception or vision

Obviously the commonly accepted definitions of the word has no solid meaning here on this forum with arguments based on semantical insanity. If in fact they do, obviously these are not the same. Sharpness, clearness and distinctness can be had at low or high resolution. Just as in an arguement spawned by Wehr on another thread, he's confusing the definition of the two as well.

Example: My Zeiss 10x40b Classics; They are extremely sharp, clear, crisp and distinct through their field of view, although, compared to the Ultravid 10x42 at long ranges, do not resolve as fine a detail as the Ultravids do. WITHOUT the aide of extra magnification, which shouldn't be needed to determine if there is a loss in resolution when it is visually apparent. Where, why or how this occurs does not change the fact that, ultimately, there IS less visible resolution and subjecting the optics to tests if the molecular alignment of the optical glass is/isn't in alignment with Pluto on a rainy day does not for one minute change the fact that one pair of binoculars may well indeed visulally resolve better than another, regardless of whomever may be viewing.

In case I have it completely wrong, I am misunderstanding the English language (hardly) and am just not clued in to some grand elitist conspiracy to re-write the dictionary based on their optical expertise, then please school me. If neither is the case, then there should be some solid, agreeable definition of terms so that nit-picking can be done on actual comments instead of peoples' use of specific words..


You are confusing everything. Optical terms are well defined and do not need special acceptance.

Walter
 
xenophobe said:
...
acuity (n) Sharpness, clearness, and distinctness of perception or vision

...

Sorry my friend. The definition of Visual Acuity is "the ability of the human visual mechanism to distinguish small spatial separations or intervals between portions of the visual field." English & English, A Comprehensive Dictionary of Psychological and Psychoanlytical Terms, 1958. Definitions in optical physics are also extremely well defined but obviously apply to the optics of the binoculars, and some anatomical portions of the eye.

A standard English dictionary such as Webster's usually isn't sufficient to express technical ideas, so it can get exasperating I'm sure. But I do enjoy your way of saying things anyway. |=)|

-elkcub
 
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Thanks for the definition. That doesn't change the fact that my visual perception of the long range target to be accurate, as magnifying my Ultravids for example would be a test of my visual acuity and magnifying the Classics would only magnify the lack of observable details.
 
Hi Bawko - what a fantastic test there! I tried to send the following as a private message but your inbox is full (I'm not surprised following such a test).

I was, like many others, fascinated by your test. I was thinking it would be very useful also in the BF review section where it will be more easily accessible for future reference as I'm sure many will want to use it.

Anyway, thanks very much for your time and patience in carrying it out. I own a pair of Swarovski 8.5x32 and have been pleased with them for the years I have owned them; that said, my brother has Nikon HG 8x42 (Monarchs in the US) and, despite a slightly narrower fov, the colour rendition and apparent sharpness is better to my eyes.

I'm writing because I'm in the market for a pair of compact bins to take when I'm walking a good distance. I find the Swaros too bulky when the prime idea is not birding. Yesterday, I looked through all that my local shop had and concluded that the Swaro 8x20s were the best they had on offer - knocking spots of a pair of compact but decent Swifts. But... I found that I did not like the fiddliness of the two separate barrels so looked on the Internet and saw two other options from Zeiss and Nikon, which I couldn't test. Then I came across your test...

You seem to point to the Nikon 10x20 as the one to get but, as I wear specs and although I prefer to use the naked eye, it is also useful to have a binocular with a fair eye relief, too and I've always found 10x bins wanting in this respect and impossible to see the full fov.

I would be grateful if you have any recommendations for me - or would it still be the Nikon? And, have you tested the 8x20s, which, I presume would have much better eye relief and be more useable with spectacles?

Thanks again!
 
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