Entry/Test 8x32 binoculars (2 Viewers)

[ngiff3]

I've been researching and thinking about buying my first alpha binoculars (between Victory SF/NL Pure), but I'm a little bit on the fence as to what to buy 8x32 or 8x42. I currently have a pair of Razor HD 8x42's that on the one hand don't feel heavy to me (24oz), but on the other hand I've had them held up for a good 3-5 minutes before (watching a preening Heron, or a Warbler collecting nesting material) and wished I had something lighter. Because of that, I've questioned whether I should go for the ~29oz 8x42 alpha's or the ~22oz 8x32s. I've never used 8x32's and I'm a little concerned I would find the smaller exit pupil annoying to deal with. I don't have anywhere convenient to test nearby so I'm planning to purchase two pairs to compare from B&H and return the other.

Because of my limitations in what I can try, I'm thinking to perhaps buy a pair of entry level 8x32 to use for a month to see if it bothers me or if I adjust to it. Any suggestions on a good test pair? I'm considering the below models already. Generally I've found I like wide FOVs, and I'm not particularly interested Porro's.

1. Nature DX 8x32
2. Vortex Diamondback 8x32
3. Opticron Explorer WA ED-R 8x32

Any thoughts on the best "starter" 8x32 to help me decide? I'll probably ultimately keep them as a buddy bin, but it doesn't have to be the best since I'm ultimately planning to buy something better for my primary use.

 

[Binocollector]

Of these three, I think the Diamondback and Opticron would be a bit higher quality than the Nature DX, simply for the reason that AFAIK the two others have magnesium housing and the Celestron is plastic.
A word of warning would be however that there are still vast differences in the comfort and ease of viewing between different brands and price ranges.
When I compare my cheapo Svbony SV202 8x32 (120€ new) to my Meopta Meopro HD 8x32 (500€ new but discontinued and replaced by a newer model) -- the Svbony loses big time in every aspect, including eye-relief. Granted, the build quality of the cheapo SV202 seems fine -- no idea how long it would hold up to constant use however, as I barely ever use it.
I never had any issues with the smaller exit pupil compared to a 8x42 but the eye-relief definitely makes a whole world of a difference to me. As do things like the correction of distortions (pincushion distortion for example, which can be larger in a cheapo model as the manufacturer invests less in perfecting the optical design), chromatic abberation and FoV.

 

[ngiff3]

Yeah, I'm trying to walk that line of how cheap can I go before some other factor will be annoying to me and make it not a helpful comparison.

Do you think it is useful to try a cheaper 8x32 for awhile, or is it mostly down to the specific binocular model how easy it is to get good eye alignment?

 

[Binocollector]

A tricky question. Considering how different the 8x30/32 porros are that I own and the 8x30/32 roof prism models -- I think it would be really tough to try to decide by buying a 200$ 8x32 instrument whether you like the same size in an instrument 10 times as expensive or even more. A major part of the higher price are things like eye-relief, FoV, distortion, color fidelity, sharpness, etc. And almost all of that plays a role in how "comfy" a bino might feel in use. Best would be (as always) to try before you buy.
I once spent about an hour in a shop comparing different models until deciding.
Oh, almost forgot - one thing about the Diamondback that I don't like is the small ridge on the eye-piece. The eye-piece of the Opticron might be more comfy.
Edit: I never looked through either Zeiss SF 8x32 nor NL 8x32 btw -- so you might wanna wait till someone chimes in who actually compared both of these to the models you named. And I am certain, someone here has done just that ;-).

 

[JOC1]

8x32s are notorious for blackout issues. I had the explorer and really enjoyed them! But I did have to learn how to use them in order to minimize the blackouts. The only 8x30 I’ve used that didn’t have this issue was the Nikon prostaff 7s (which has now been upgraded to the P7). The P7 8x30 might be your best fit in what you are looking for.

 

[Paultricounty]

If you’re thinking of going top shelf (alpha) and already have a Razor HD, which is good glass, if you go to a lesser quality 8x32 you most likely will be disappointed. If you want the wide FOV of the top models then your only real chooses are the NL and SF‘s. Depending on how you will be using them and under what conditions can determine which is better choice. If 90% give or take of your observing is done in good lighting conditions during the day, you will not notice much of any difference in the image quality of the 8x32 or 42. The image quality is absolutely stunning in both of these models, you will not be disappointed with any of them.

If weight is a consideration either of the 8x32’s will be excellent, id prefer the NL. If your more inclined to go for the 42, then go SF, which is lighter.

Im pretty sure either one you try , you will like. I’d suggest B&H in NY, you could buy both and return the one you don’t want.

Paul

 

[Paultricounty]

I've been researching and thinking about buying my first alpha binoculars (between Victory SF/NL Pure), but I'm a little bit on the fence as to what to buy 8x32 or 8x42. I currently have a pair of Razor HD 8x42's that on the one hand don't feel heavy to me (24oz), but on the other hand I've had them held up for a good 3-5 minutes before (watching a preening Heron, or a Warbler collecting nesting material) and wished I had something lighter. Because of that, I've questioned whether I should go for the ~29oz 8x42 alpha's or the ~22oz 8x32s. I've never used 8x32's and I'm a little concerned I would find the smaller exit pupil annoying to deal with. I don't have anywhere convenient to test nearby so I'm planning to purchase two pairs to compare from B&H and return the other.

Because of my limitations in what I can try, I'm thinking to perhaps buy a pair of entry level 8x32 to use for a month to see if it bothers me or if I adjust to it. Any suggestions on a good test pair? I'm considering the below models already. Generally I've found I like wide FOVs, and I'm not particularly interested Porro's.

1. Nature DX 8x32
2. Vortex Diamondback 8x32
3. Opticron Explorer WA ED-R 8x32

Any thoughts on the best "starter" 8x32 to help me decide? I'll probably ultimately keep them as a buddy bin, but it doesn't have to be the best since I'm ultimately planning to buy something better for my primary use.

Theres a guy here on bird forum in the classified selling what looks to be a nice clean SF 8x42 at a very fair price. I don’t know the seller so I can’t vouch for him, but if interested of course do your due diligence.

https://www.birdforum.net/threads/zeiss-sf-8x42.445799/

Good luck

Paul

 

[ngiff3]

I'm definitely going to either a Victory SF or a NL Pure (I have been decided unimpressed with the Leica Trinovids I've tried vs. Conquest HD's, so not interested in Noctavids).

I'm well aware the cheap binoculars will look worse. I'm interested/curious about using the 8x32's, but am a bit concerned about blackouts since I see people complaining about these kinds of issues with lower exit pupils and I've only used 8x42s. I figured a trial run with some cheaper binoculars might give a good sense of whether I would struggle with blackouts with 8x32's and help inform whether to buy 8x32's or 8x42's of the SF/NLs. I figure I can only reasonably try 2 of them since there are no stores which carry any of them located near me, so I want to decide 8x32 or 8x42 before I order them.

 

[winginit]

I'm definitely going to either a Victory SF or a NL Pure (I have been decided unimpressed with the Leica Trinovids I've tried vs. Conquest HD's, so not interested in Noctavids).

I'm well aware the cheap binoculars will look worse. I'm interested/curious about using the 8x32's, but am a bit concerned about blackouts since I see people complaining about these kinds of issues with lower exit pupils and I've only used 8x42s. I figured a trial run with some cheaper binoculars might give a good sense of whether I would struggle with blackouts with 8x32's and help inform whether to buy 8x32's or 8x42's of the SF/NLs. I figure I can only reasonably try 2 of them since there are no stores which carry any of them located near me, so I want to decide 8x32 or 8x42 before I order them.

There's so much variation in the different 8x32 brands/models. I briefly had the Kowa BD II 8x32, which gets great reviews. For me it was too heavy, eyecups weren't comfortable and the focus wheel was finicky. I now own the Explorer and use it often. But it's not on the level of an alpha. So I agree with Binocollector, a modest priced 8x32 probably won't help you decide about the SF or NL.

 

[Paultricounty]

I'm definitely going to either a Victory SF or a NL Pure (I have been decided unimpressed with the Leica Trinovids I've tried vs. Conquest HD's, so not interested in Noctavids).

This by no means is a fair comparison, the Noctivids are on the same level as the NL and SF , and some say better if you dismiss the larger FOV on the the Swaro and Zeiss. The difference from a Conquest and Trinovid is like the difference between the razor and the NL and SF. But regardless the Leica isn’t what your looking for if FOV is important.

I'm well aware the cheap binoculars will look worse. I'm interested/curious about using the 8x32's, but am a bit concerned about blackouts since I see people complaining about these kinds of issues with lower exit pupils and I've only used 8x42s.

Forget about what people say about blackouts, especially at the Alpha level. This is a very tiny percent of the people and mostly the exception to the rule , and even more so in 8x. You can’t get a good representation about eye box and blackout by using cheap binoculars as an example. In 8x32 in an alpha 95%+ of the people have no issues, that’s why I said order them and see for yourself. I’ve probably had over a dozen people with SF, NL and EL’s try them , and nobody had an issue. So as I opined , trying out a cheaper 8 x 32 will not be representative and may give you a false result.

I figured a trial run with some cheaper binoculars might give a good sense of whether I would struggle with blackouts with 8x32's and help inform whether to buy 8x32's or 8x42's of the SF/NLs. I figure I can only reasonably try 2 of them since there are no stores which carry any of them located near me, so I want to decide 8x32 or 8x42 before I order them.

If money is not an issue buy them both 🤪

Paul

 

[ngiff3]

This by no means is a fair comparison, the Noctivids are on the same level as the NL and SF , and some say better if you dismiss the larger FOV on the the Swaro and Zeiss. The difference from a Conquest and Trinovid is like the difference between the razor and the NL and SF. But regardless the Leica isn’t what your looking for if FOV is important.

Forget about what people say about blackouts, especially at the Alpha level. This is a very tiny percent of the people and mostly the exception to the rule , and even more so in 8x. You can’t get a good representation about eye box and blackout by using cheap binoculars as an example. In 8x32 in an alpha 95%+ of the people have no issues, that’s why I said order them and see for yourself. I’ve probably had over a dozen people with SF, NL and EL’s try them , and nobody had an issue. So as I opined , trying out a cheaper 8 x 32 will not be representative and may give you a false result.

If money is not an issue buy them both 🤪

Paul

Yeah, what bothered me about the Trinovids was the FOV. I hated how they felt really constrictive, I preferred basically every other binocular I've tried because of that. Hence me writing off the Noctavids, since they seem to be similarly inferior in that regard. And in fact that is what is driving me to upgrade my Razors, because my entry level bins (Athlon Midas ED 8x42) had a bigger FOV than my Razors, and I want to have the larger FOV with the high quality glass.

I wish buying 2 of these was a non-issue . I'm limiting myself to buying two and then returning the one I like less. I've been slightly tempted to just fly to NYC or somewhere that stocks all of these and just try everything, though I feel like probably trying in store doesn't give the full picture. Maybe I'll start with the 8x42 and try 8x32 here in a few years (though $1600 for the SF 8x42 may expedite when that becomes realistic ). Used is tempting, though I'd really like to compare w/ the NL Pure.

 

[Paultricounty]

Yeah, what bothered me about the Trinovids was the FOV. I hated how they felt really constrictive, I preferred basically every other binocular I've tried because of that. Hence me writing off the Noctavids, since they seem to be similarly inferior in that regard. And in fact that is what is driving me to upgrade my Razors, because my entry level bins (Athlon Midas ED 8x42) had a bigger FOV than my Razors, and I want to have the larger FOV with the high quality glass.

I wish buying 2 of these was a non-issue . I'm limiting myself to buying two and then returning the one I like less. I've been slightly tempted to just fly to NYC or somewhere that stocks all of these and just try everything, though I feel like probably trying in store doesn't give the full picture. Maybe I'll start with the 8x42 and try 8x32 here in a few years (though $1600 for the SF 8x42 may expedite when that becomes realistic ). Used is tempting, though I'd really like to compare w/ the NL Pure.

Trying them out in the store is always an option, but it’s not the best option. The little nuances of each does not come out in a store in a half hour. Much better to order them use them for a week or two fall in love and then return the other. The only thing you pay is return shipping.

And you get to fondle them when nobody’s watching 🤣

 

[[email protected]]

I would buy the Zeiss SF 8x42 first and if you don't like it, return it and try the NL 8x42. You can't judge how a $2000 binocular is going to perform by trying that same format in a $200 binocular. A $2000 Zeiss SF 8x32 is going to be at another level from the Vortex Diamondback 8x32, so you are just wasting your money trying the Vortex.

You are going to like an 8x42 better than an 8x32. They are more comfortable to use, brighter, and you will have fewer blackouts with them. I suggest trying the Zeiss SF 8x42 first because the NL 8x42 has more glare issues, and it is heavier especially in an 8x42 than the Zeiss. I bet you will really like the Zeiss SF 8x42.

 

[Paultricounty]

Says the resident glare arbiter.

Under 90% of observing conditions you’d only see a slight difference in side by side comparisons between the 32 & 42 ,unless you have some eyesight deficiency like Dennis. Eye box is extremely toloraant and comfortable in the alpha 8x32’s. And they’re lighter and more compact.

Don’t let anybody here tell you something is a problem , try for yourself. There are people here that will tell you something is the best thing since sliced bread , until they sell them, then the story changes.

Paul.

 

[GrampaTom]

My $.02...

I suspect its a bad idea to buy a cheaper 32 to see if you will like a more expensive version.

How important is FOV to your eye/brain vs what you imagine? Divide factory specs by 10 to get FOV @ 100 yard. Compare.

Im the last guy to try and explain, but I think Ive at least convinced myself AFOV is an important compliment to that FOV thing.

Whatever you do, disregard Denco's advice on glare.

My limited experience is that 32s are a bit fussier to get setup and learn to mount correctly. Takes a second or two.

Discount in store looking. Its no substitute for using a new bino where you actually bird.

 

[ngiff3]

My $.02...

I suspect its a bad idea to buy a cheaper 32 to see if you will like a more expensive version.

How important is FOV to your eye/brain vs what you imagine? Divide factory specs by 10 to get FOV @ 100 yard. Compare.

Im the last guy to try and explain, but I think Ive at least convinced myself AFOV is an important compliment to that FOV thing.

Whatever you do, disregard Denco's advice on glare.

My limited experience is that 32s are a bit fussier to get setup and learn to mount correctly. Takes a second or two.

Discount in store looking. Its no substitute for using a new bino where you actually bird.

I agree, I've been paying a lot of attention to AFOV. I think it's the perceived size of the image that gives the sense of immersion, and that is what matters more to me, not the extra foot of view (though that matters to me too). They do generally seem to run together though (most of the time higher FOV correlates to higher AFOV within a magnification class). This intuitively makes sense to me, if the magnification is truly the same and the image displays a larger area, then the image should in theory be larger, right? For example, if a map has the same scale as another map, but covers a larger area, then the map itself must be physically larger. I understand there are complexities in how we perceive it because of eyepiece geometry, etc. but this seems like a reasonable generalization to me. Am I wrong?

 

[William Lewis]

I wouldn't worry too much about black outs - they can happen with any sized exit pupil from 2mm to 7mm and are caused more by how far your eye is from the ocular lens, the design of the eye piece and the eye cups extension range. A lot of it comes down to whether they fit your face or not too.

8x30'' are great, all you really need most of the time. In the smaller models (not NL or sf!) it's almost a surprise when you lift them to your eyes how good the view is from something so small.

I wouldn't necessarily let the trinovid hd experience put you off leica or associate them with narrow fields, the 8x32 uvhd is an entirely different beast.

 

[Binocollector]

Discount in store looking. Its no substitute for using a new bino where you actually bird.

Depends on where you buy. In the store where I tested them, you could even open a window and look outside, very much like normal conditions in use. Not every store will offer that of course.
I am curious, in the USA can you test binos a week then send them back as if nothing ever happened and get a full refund? Because in Germany that wouldn't fly. Unless some sellers offer a test period allowing that. Otherwise, to get a full refund, the items have to be unused. If not, the seller can charge you for whatever reduction in value you caused by using the item. Which is perfectly fine, otherwise how could the seller sell them again as new if someone already used them for a week to test-drive them?

 

[[email protected]]

I agree, I've been paying a lot of attention to AFOV. I think it's the perceived size of the image that gives the sense of immersion, and that is what matters more to me, not the extra foot of view (though that matters to me too). They do generally seem to run together though (most of the time higher FOV correlates to higher AFOV within a magnification class). This intuitively makes sense to me, if the magnification is truly the same and the image displays a larger area, then the image should in theory be larger, right? For example, if a map has the same scale as another map, but covers a larger area, then the map itself must be physically larger. I understand there are complexities in how we perceive it because of eyepiece geometry, etc. but this seems like a reasonable generalization to me. Am I wrong?

You're right. AFOV is more important than FOV. It is what makes a binocular immersive and gives it the WOW factor.

 

[[email protected]]

I wouldn't worry too much about black outs - they can happen with any sized exit pupil from 2mm to 7mm and are caused more by how far your eye is from the ocular lens, the design of the eye piece and the eye cups extension range. A lot of it comes down to whether they fit your face or not too.

8x30'' are great, all you really need most of the time. In the smaller models (not NL or sf!) it's almost a surprise when you lift them to your eyes how good the view is from something so small.

I wouldn't necessarily let the trinovid hd experience put you off leica or associate them with narrow fields, the 8x32 uvhd is an entirely different beast.

The bigger the exit pupil, the more flexibility you have with how the binocular interacts with your eyes. IMO, the bigger, the better. With a binocular with bigger exit pupils you are less likely to have black-outs, and you can move your eyes around more in the exit pupil to observe the FOV. A binocular with bigger exit pupils has easier eye placement, and that is the biggest reason many people prefer an 8x42 over an 8x32.