16th October:
Up early to meet a guide Gabs had sorted for us...called Gaby too (or 2)
He was nice enough, spoke and understood English very well but didn’t know the whereabouts of the asity nest but assured us he knew other territories. We drove to the Ampijoroa side of the park which is on the west side of Lake Ravelobe, got dropped off and began wandering the trails through the forest. We soon had a nice
Mad Cuckoo perched above us calling, several
Mad Turtle Doves flew up from the path whilst a small party of
Mad Green-Pigeons fed on fruiting trees overhead – that stopped the group moaning about my ‘stringing!
We soon heard the tell-tale calls of one of the targets and after much ducking, peering and squinting, a fine pair of
White-breasted Mesites strutted into view! Fab-looking birds and man, they can move quick!! Another pair was seen later on here too. Other goodies included our first
Crested Couas and perched
Cuckoo-Roller, a
Mad Buttonquail, a single
White-headed and a pair of
Blue Vangas and on the path we encountered a
Common Big-eyed Snake (
Mimophis mahfalensis).
Crested Drongos, Mad Bulbuls and
Souimanga Sunbirds were very numerous with
Common Newtonias being the other ‘common’ small bird. We frustratingly heard a Schlegel’s Asity calling but just couldn’t find the damn thing....this species DOES NOT respond to the tape at all!
We wandered back out along the road towards the campsite which is about a 10min walk. We scanned the lake as we passed the western end of it seeing 2ad
Mad Pond-Herons and all the usual species but in lower numbers than the previous evening - Chris also had a
Little Bittern here (stringy...at least everyone else saw my birds eventually
). A
Mascarene Martin perched nicely by the dam and a few
Mad Bee-eaters were hawking over the marsh. A lorry had been driven off the road and was balanced precariously on the roadside but it had been pulled out by the evening – how not to park! Also a single
Common Myna was seen, which Gaby 2 said had only reached here in the past couple of years....whether that’s a bad thing remains to be seen I guess. Back at the campsite we had a
Mad Hoopoe feeding on the ground amongst the huge fallen leaves and had good views of the
Sickle-billed Vangas and
Broad-billed Rollers – and the resident
Coquerel’s Sifakas of course! We grabbed breakfast in the restaurant and then set off with Gaby 2 again through the trails beyond.
We had great views of an eye-level pair of Rufous Vangas, several
Long-billed Bernieras, Ashy Cuckooshrikes and
Mad Paradise-Flys, another pair of mesites, but best of all, a cracking
Red-capped Coua making its way through the undergrowth – a very smart bird indeed. We were also shown a couple of cool
Milne-Edward’s Sportive-Lemurs poking their gremlin-like heads out of their nests – excellent! – but no sign of the owl in its usual roost. As the temperature soared we made our way back to the restaurant to basically bum around until later that afternoon when Gaby 2 would come back for more. Reptiles now grabbed our attention with good numbers of
Collared Iguanids, several
Broad-tailed Girdled-Lizards, a
Modest Day-Gecko (
Phelsuma modesta) and 2 big
Oustalet’s Chameleons being seen. It was now we bumped into the group from yesterday and their leader suggested we use their guide as they were off. So we were introduced to the oh-too-smooth Tina who in turn put us with Lanto as he had to motor off to Mahajanga, telling us that if we could get there by 8am tomorrow we could go on a boat trip up the river.
Not wanting to sit around doing nowt, we went off with him back onto the trails at Ankarafantsika at about 1pm – when Gaby 2 had said there’d be nothing to see. As we rounded one of the first corners we came face to face with an absolutely stunning
Mad Pygmy-Kingfisher sitting head height right next to the path, no more than 4ft in front of us. It sat and watched us watching it, slowly pumping its tail as it kept an eye on what we were doing. We walked away after about 10mins with the bird still perched there - wow! A little further on an accipiter flashed across the path in front of us and amazingly perched up –
Mad Sprawk, result! We wandered the trails and picked up another couple of
Red-capped Couas, one of which stood on the path and raised its back feathers to take in the sun, and we also found our other quarry – the less-colourful but equally cool
Coquerel’s Coua. 2 birds were seen very well indeed and on the way back, just when things were looking bleak, Lanto pointed excitedly into the trees and we had a brilliant pair of
Van Dam’s Vangas in our sights!! Excellent stuff! The birds were a nightmare to photograph as they just kept moving through the tangle of trees but great birds nonetheless and another male was heard as we walked away. So, 4 targets down, 1 to go....and we had a nest-site for that one, so that’s a given....right?
We met back with Gaby 2 as we felt a bit bad in ‘dropping’ him so thought bugger it, he may as well come with us and find out where the nest-site is as that will help him too. As we wandered out of the campsite a couple of
Common Brown Lemurs splayed languorously in the tall trees were good to see. We trudged back up to the trails through Ampijoroa and made a brisk walk to the asity nest and waited. And waited. And waited. And waited.......and then.....nothing! An annoying swarm of sweat bees decided to join the fun and made a miserable time even worse. After 3hrs and only a male
Blue Vanga to show for it, it was clear that the birds weren’t anywhere in the area so we walked back out dejectedly with the knowledge that we might have missed the stupid bloody thing – it all now depended if Tina’s price was right for the boat as to whether we’d be coming back in the morning.
As dusk fell, a
White-throated Rail was seen as we exited the forest by the lake and 5
Mad Nightjars were flying over the area too. As a bonus we had 2 excellent
Mongoose Lemurs in the roadside trees here.....a little bit of recompense. Dinner was a fairly sombre affair – I take dipping seriously, probably way too seriously! – and then Tina called Gaby with a ridiculous price of 800,000MGA so that sorted it. Back in the forest tomorrow morning!! Now for some unknown reason, we never did a nightwalk through the forest....don’t even know why not as Western Avahi and the rare Golden Mouse-Lemur are both usually seen.....b*llox is the only word I can think of!